https://elinux.org/api.php?action=feedcontributions&user=Bgirardot&feedformat=atomeLinux.org - User contributions [en]2024-03-19T11:39:48ZUser contributionsMediaWiki 1.31.0https://elinux.org/index.php?title=Talk:RPi_ADC_I2C_Python&diff=211088Talk:RPi ADC I2C Python2013-01-15T00:49:22Z<p>Bgirardot: /* Updated PYTHONPATh step */</p>
<hr />
<div>==Updated PYTHONPATH step==<br />
It seems the quick2wire people reorganized the quick2wire-python-api so there is no longer a src directory. The README says to add the path to the root directory of the package to the PYTHONPATH variable. I found in my own use that was required as well. There is no longer a src/ directory and the test script fails saying it can not find the module. Putting in the root directory path for the package fixed the problem, so I updated these directions to reflect the current correct installation procedure. --[[User:Bgirardot|Bgirardot]] ([[User talk:Bgirardot|talk]]) 00:49, 15 January 2013 (UTC)</div>Bgirardothttps://elinux.org/index.php?title=Talk:RPi_ADC_I2C_Python&diff=211082Talk:RPi ADC I2C Python2013-01-15T00:49:04Z<p>Bgirardot: Added note about PYTHONPATH change</p>
<hr />
<div>==Updated PYTHONPATh step==<br />
It seems the quick2wire people reorganized the quick2wire-python-api so there is no longer a src directory. The README says to add the path to the root directory of the package to the PYTHONPATH variable. I found in my own use that was required as well. There is no longer a src/ directory and the test script fails saying it can not find the module. Putting in the root directory path for the package fixed the problem, so I updated these directions to reflect the current correct installation procedure. --[[User:Bgirardot|Bgirardot]] ([[User talk:Bgirardot|talk]]) 00:49, 15 January 2013 (UTC)</div>Bgirardothttps://elinux.org/index.php?title=RPi_ADC_I2C_Python&diff=211076RPi ADC I2C Python2013-01-15T00:44:10Z<p>Bgirardot: Changed PYTHONPATH to point to root of the directory instead of src/ directory - See discussion page for reason</p>
<hr />
<div>[[Category:RaspberryPi]]<br />
Back to the [[R-Pi Hub|Hub]], or the [[RPi Tutorials|Tutorials]] page. <br />
<br />
== Reading ADC values over I2C using Python ==<br />
<br />
I ([[User:AndrewS|AndrewS]]) recently bought a [http://www.abelectronics.co.uk/products/3/Raspberry-Pi/7/ADC-Pi---Raspberry-Pi-Analogue-to-Digital-converter ADC Pi] ('''A'''nalogue to '''D'''igital '''C'''onverter) RaspberryPi addon board from http://www.abelectronics.co.uk/ - there were a few tricky points in getting it working, so I thought I'd write this step-by-step tutorial. The instructions below are all based on the [http://www.raspberrypi.org/downloads 2012-09-18-wheezy-raspbian distro] but should be equally applicable to other distros.<br />
''Update:'' I've just tested the instructions below on a 2012-10-28-wheezy-raspbian distro and they still work fine.<br />
<br />
=== Instructions ===<br />
Files in the ''/etc'' directory below need to be edited as root, so use '''sudo nano ''filename'' '''<br />
<br />
# Enable I2C support<br />
#* add '''i2c-dev''' to the end of ''/etc/modules''<br />
#* comment out (with a '''#''') the line that says '''blacklist i2c-bcm2708''' in ''/etc/modprobe.d/raspi-blacklist.conf''<br />
# Enable the current user to access I2C hardware<br />
#* install i2c-tools (includes ''i2cdetect'' and adds the ''i2c'' group) with: '''sudo apt-get update && sudo apt-get install i2c-tools'''<br />
#* add the current user to the ''i2c'' group with: '''sudo adduser $USER i2c'''<br />
# Install the Quick2Wire Python API<br />
#* install ''git'' with: '''sudo apt-get install git'''<br />
#* download the API with: '''git clone https://github.com/quick2wire/quick2wire-python-api.git'''<br />
#* enable Python to access the API by adding '''export PYTHONPATH=$PYTHONPATH:$HOME/quick2wire-python-api''' to the end of ''~/.profile''<br />
# Reboot to enable all the above changes<br />
#* '''sudo reboot'''<br />
# Download and run the demo script<br />
#* download it with: '''wget http://www.andrewscheller.co.uk/adc_demo.py'''<br />
#* make it executable with: '''chmod +x adc_demo.py'''<br />
#* run it with: '''./adc_demo.py'''<br />
<br />
If everything went well you should now find that you get:<br><br />
''1: 0.000000''<br><br />
''2: 0.000000''<br><br />
''3: 0.000000''<br><br />
''4: 0.000000''<br><br />
''5: 0.000000''<br><br />
''6: 0.000000''<br><br />
''7: 0.000000''<br><br />
''8: 0.000000''<br><br />
printed repeatedly to the screen.<br />
You can test that the ADC is working by using e.g. a bent paperclip to connect the "5V" on the board to one of the eight ADC channels, and the corresponding reading on screen should then read approximately 5V (in fact, the voltage output by your PSU). Stop the script with the usual Ctrl+C.<br />
<br />
Back to the [[R-Pi Hub|Hub]], or the [[RPi Tutorials|Tutorials]] page.</div>Bgirardothttps://elinux.org/index.php?title=RPi_VerifiedPeripherals&diff=210890RPi VerifiedPeripherals2013-01-14T03:34:43Z<p>Bgirardot: /* Working Bluetooth/Wifi Combo adapters */ - Added additional wifi/BT combo adapter</p>
<hr />
<div>[[Category: Linux]]<br />
[[Category: ARM Development Boards]]<br />
[[Category: Broadcom]]<br />
[[Category: Development Boards]]<br />
[[Category: RaspberryPi]]<br />
[[Category: Education]]<br />
{{Template: RPi_Hardware}}<br />
<br />
<br />
'''A note about this page: For USB devices, please specify if they required a powered hub'''<br />
==Notes==<br />
<br />
19-Apr-2012: Now that the Model B board is shipping, details added should relate to this board and the [http://www.raspberrypi.org/downloads default Debian distribution] unless stated otherwise. A suggested suffix markup scheme is as follows:<br />
<br />
* (A) - Relates to model A production board<br />
* (B) - Relates to model B production board<br />
* (!) - Information from alpha and beta board days -- beta board verified peripherals should still apply to production boards for the most part, but the alpha board is fairly different<br />
* No markup - relates to all production boards<br />
<br />
''Discuss: [http://www.raspberrypi.org/forum/?mingleforumaction=viewtopic&t=247 http://www.raspberrypi.org/forum/?mingleforumaction=viewtopic&t=247]''<br />
<br />
If you are adding to a product list it would help clarity if entries are kept/added in alphabetical order.<br />
<br />
==Power Usage Notes==<br />
{{Warning|Adding peripherals may increase the loading on the power supply to your board and this, in turn, may affect the voltage presented to the Raspberry Pi. If the Raspberry Pi's supply voltage falls below a certain value (anecdotally stated as around 4.75&nbsp;V), or it begins to fluctuate, your setup may become unstable. There is a [http://elinux.org/RPi_Hardware#Power Wiki section about this issue] which is worth a read.}}<br />
<br />
'''Model B Hardware Revisions and USB Power limits'''<br />
'''Hardware Revision 1.0'''<br />
The original Model B board had current limiting polyfuses which limited the power output of each USB port to approximatly 100&nbsp;mA. USB devices using more than 100&nbsp;mA had to be connected via a powered hub. The Raspberry Pi's PSU was chosen with a power budget of 700&nbsp;mA of which 200&nbsp;mA were assigned to the USB ports, so the Raspberry Pi's (poly)fuses were designed only for devices up to 100&nbsp;mA, and typical 140&nbsp;mA polyfuses will have as much as 0.6 volt across them when drawing currents near the 100&nbsp;mA limit. As a consequence the USB ports are only directly suitable for "single current unit" USB devices which, according to USB specifications, are designed to work with just 4.4 Volt. Not only do non single current unit devices draw more current (causing greater Voltage drops, and greater stress on the fuses), they also might require 4.75 Volt to work.<br />
<br />
'''Model B Hardware Revision 2.0 and Revision 1.0 with ECN0001 change'''<br />
This had the polyfuses removed, removing the 100&nbsp;mA current limitation for each USB port (but leaving the main fuse F3 intact). Users should still ensure their power supply can power the Raspberry Pi and the USB peripherals. Revision 2.0 was released in August 2012.<br />
<br />
==Linux Driver Issues==<br />
Shortly after the Raspberry Pi was released it was confirmed that there were a number of issues with the Linux USB driver for the SMSC95xx chip. These included problems with USB 1.x peripherals that use split transactions, a fixed number of channels (causing problems with Kinect) and the way the ARM processor handles the SMSC95xx interrupts. [http://www.raspberrypi.org/phpBB3/viewtopic.php?f=28&t=12097&start=76] [http://www.raspberrypi.org/phpBB3/viewtopic.php?f=28&t=5249&start=44]<br />
A large number of fixes were included in the 2012-08-19-Wheezy-raspbian Linux image.<br />
<br />
== Powered USB Hubs ==<br />
A number of low-cost powered USB hubs are known to have caused problems. Members of the Raspberry Pi forums have reported low power or no power at all in some cases. The following is a list of specific Powered USB Hubs which appear to be fault-free. Please note that these do not take into account powering the Raspberry Pi from the hub, in addition to its peripherals.<br />
<br />
If you use a powered hub and the Raspberry Pi PSU together consider powering them from the same power bar with switch, so you can turn them on simultaneously., especially if the HUB tries to feed the Raspberry Pi through their interconnect cable, due to the 100&nbsp;mA limiting fuse in the Raspberry Pi, the Raspberry Pi will be partially powered which may cause problems (unwanted writes to the SD card).<br />
<br />
===Working USB Hubs===<br />
<div style="margin: -.3em -1em -1em -1em;"><br />
{| width="100%" bgcolor="#fff" border="0" cellpadding="2px" cellspacing="2px" style="margin:auto;"<br />
|- align="center" bgcolor="#e7eef6"<br />
| '''Brand'''<br />
| '''Name'''<br />
| '''Model Number'''<br />
| '''Hardware ID'''<br />
| '''USB Version'''<br />
| '''Number of Ports'''<br />
| '''Power Rating*'''<br />
| '''Powers Raspberry Pi'''<br />
| '''Additional Information'''<br />
<br />
<br />
|- valign="top" align="left" style="background: #F5FAFF;"<br />
|Belkin<br />
|4-Port Ultra-Slim Desktop Hub<br />
|F4U040<br />
|05e3:0608<br />
|USB 2.0<br />
|4-Port<br />
|5&nbsp;V - 2.6&nbsp;A<br />
|Verified<br />
| Powers the pi quite well, 4.85V across TP1&2 during idle and load. The PSU for the hub is a 2.5A 5v made in china. Seems solid. Does backfeed the mini USB port<br />
<br />
|- valign="top" align="left" style="background: #F5FAFF;"<br />
|Belkin<br />
|Hi-Speed USB 2.0 4-Port Hub<br />
|F5U224<br />
|<br />
|USB 2.0<br />
|4-Port<br />
|5&nbsp;V - 500&nbsp;mA per Port<br />
|Not Verified<br />
|<br />
<br />
|- valign="top" align="left" style="background: #F5FAFF;"<br />
|Belkin<br />
|TetraHub™ USB 2.0 4-Port Hub<br />
|F5U231<br />
|<br />
|USB 2.0<br />
|4-Port<br />
|5&nbsp;V - 500&nbsp;mA per Port<br />
|Verified<br />
|<br />
<br />
|- valign="top" align="left" style="background: #F5FAFF;"<br />
|Belkin<br />
|Hi-Speed USB 2.0 4-Port Hub<br />
|F5U234<br />
|<br />
|USB 2.0<br />
|4-Port<br />
|5&nbsp;V - 500&nbsp;mA per Port<br />
|Verified<br />
|No backfeed, can power the RPi. Comes with a 2.4&nbsp;A power supply. The user manual [http://www.belkin.com/pyramid/documents/external/P75268ea_F5U234ea.pdf] says ''&ldquo;Per Port Current Self-Powered Mode: 500mA (max)&rdquo;''. However, I've attached a HD that requires 850&nbsp;mA and it worked fine.<br />
<br />
|- valign="top" align="left" style="background: #F5FAFF;"<br />
|Belkin<br />
|Hi-Speed USB 2.0 7-Port Hub <br />
|F5U237<br />
|<br />
|USB 2.0<br />
|7-Port<br />
|5&nbsp;V - 3.8&nbsp;A<br />
|Verified<br />
|<br />
<br />
|- valign="top" align="left" style="background: #F5FAFF;"<br />
|Belkin<br />
|MyEssentials 7-Port High-Speed USB 2.0 Hub<br />
|F5U259-ME<br />
|<br />
|USB 2.0<br />
|7-Port<br />
|<br />
|Verified<br />
|<br />
<br />
|- valign="top" align="left" style="background: #F5FAFF;"<br />
|Belkin<br />
|Hi-Speed USB 2.0 4-Port Lighted Hub<br />
|F5U403<br />
|<br />
|USB 2.0<br />
|4-Port<br />
|<br />
|Not Verified<br />
|<br />
<br />
|- valign="top" align="left" style="background: #F5FAFF;"<br />
|Belkin<br />
|Hi-Speed USB 2.0 7-Port Lighted Hub<br />
|F5U700<br />
|<br />
|USB 2.0<br />
|7-Port<br />
|<br />
|Verified<br />
|[http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000SDW84K]<br />
<br />
|- valign="top" align="left" style="background: #F5FAFF;"<br />
|Belkin<br />
|Hub 2-en-1<br />
|F5U706ea<br />
|<br />
|USB 2.0<br />
|7-Port<br />
|<br />
|Not Verified<br />
|<br />
<br />
|- valign="top" align="left" style="background: #F5FAFF;"<br />
|Belkin<br />
|Hi-Speed USB 2.0 7-Port Hub <br />
|F5U237v1<br />
|<br />
|USB 2.0<br />
|7-Port<br />
|5&nbsp;V - 2.5&nbsp;A<br />
|Not Verified<br />
|<br />
<br />
|- valign="top" align="left" style="background: #F5FAFF;"<br />
|Belkin<br />
|Ultra-Slim Desktop Hub<br />
|F4U040v<br />
|05e3:0608<br />
|USB 2.0<br />
|4-Port<br />
|5 V - 2.6 A<br />
|Verified<br />
|<br />
<br />
|- valign="top" align="left" style="background: #F5FAFF;"<br />
|Belkin<br />
|Ultra-Slim Desktop Hub<br />
|F4U039qukAPL<br />
|05e3:0608<br />
|USB 2.0<br />
|7-Port<br />
|<br />
|Verified<br />
|<br />
<br />
|- valign="top" align="left" style="background: #F5FAFF;"<br />
|Benq<br />
|<br />
|E2220HD<br />
|<br />
|USB 2.0<br />
|4-Port<br />
|<br />
|Verified<br />
|Monitor with built in Hub<br />
<br />
|- valign="top" align="left" style="background: #F5FAFF;"<br />
|Biltema<br />
|<br />
|23-924<br />
|<br />
|USB 2.0<br />
|4-Port<br />
|2.0&nbsp;A<br />
|Verified<br />
|<br />
<br />
|- valign="top" align="left" style="background: #F5FAFF;"<br />
|Biltema<br />
|<br />
|23-924<br />
|<br />
|USB 2.0<br />
|4-Port<br />
|2.0&nbsp;A<br />
|Verified<br />
|<br />
<br />
|- valign="top" align="left" style="background: #F5FAFF;"<br />
|BUFFALO<br />
|4 Port Hub<br />
|BSH4aAE06<br />
|05e3:0608<br />
|USB 2.0<br />
|4-Port<br />
|5&nbsp;V <br />
|Verified<br />
|No Problem using Webcam & wifi Dongle. seen As Genesys Logic, Inc. USB-2.0 4-Port HUB<br />
<br />
|- valign="top" align="left" style="background: #F5FAFF;"<br />
|Cyberpower<br />
|High-speed Hub<br />
|CP-H720P<br />
|0409:0050<br />
|USB 2.0<br />
|7-Port<br />
|3.6&nbsp;A<br />
|Verified<br />
|May Contain dual 05e3:0608 instead of 0409:0050<br />
<br />
|- valign="top" align="left" style="background: #F5FAFF;"<br />
|Dell<br />
|<br />
|2001FP<br />
|<br />
|USB 2.0<br />
|4-Port<br />
|<br />
|Not Verified<br />
|Monitor with built in Hub<br />
<br />
|- valign="top" align="left" style="background: #F5FAFF;"<br />
|Dell<br />
|<br />
|SP2309W<br />
|<br />
|USB 2.0<br />
|4-Port<br />
|<br />
|Not Verified<br />
|Monitor with built in Hub<br />
<br />
|- valign="top" align="left" style="background: #F5FAFF;"<br />
|Dell<br />
|<br />
|2407FWP<br />
|<br />
|USB 2.0<br />
|4-Port<br />
|<br />
|Not Verified<br />
|Monitor with built-in hub - 6-in-1 card reader Works, but it cannot read SDXC<br />
<br />
|- valign="top" align="left" style="background: #F5FAFF;"<br />
|Dell<br />
|<br />
|U3011<br />
|<br />
|USB 2.0<br />
|4-Port<br />
|<br />
|Not Verified<br />
|Monitor with built in Hub - Card Reader Works - May work with SDXC<br />
<br />
|- valign="top" align="left" style="background: #F5FAFF;"<br />
|Delock<br />
|<br />
|B/N61393<br />
|<br />
|USB 2.0<br />
|4-Port<br />
|2.0&nbsp;A<br />
|Verified<br />
|<br />
<br />
|- valign="top" align="left" style="background: #F5FAFF;"<br />
|Delock<br />
|USB 2.0 External Hub 7 Port<br />
|B/N87467<br />
|<br />
|USB 2.0<br />
|7-Port<br />
|5&nbsp;V - 3.5&nbsp;A<br />
|Verified<br />
|You can Power Raspberry Pi using one USB Port of the Hub there is no backfeeding, measured 4,88V on Idle and 4,82V on load on TP1-TP2.<br />
<br />
|- valign="top" align="left" style="background: #F5FAFF;"<br />
|Deltaco<br />
|<br />
|UH-715 Rev 2<br />
|<br />
|USB 2.0<br />
|7-Port<br />
|2.0&nbsp;A<br />
|Not Verified<br />
|<br />
<br />
|- valign="top" align="left" style="background: #F5FAFF;"<br />
|Dynex<br />
|<br />
|<br />
|0409:0050<br />
|USB 2.0<br />
|7-Port<br />
|2.0&nbsp;A<br />
|Not Verified<br />
|<br />
<br />
|- valign="top" align="left" style="background: #F5FAFF;"<br />
|Dynex<br />
|Dynex USB 2.0 7 Port Hub<br />
|DX-HB7PT<br />
|<br />
|USB 2.0<br />
|7-Port<br />
|5.0&nbsp;V / 2.0&nbsp;A<br />
|Verified<br />
|<br />
<br />
|- valign="top" align="left" style="background: #F5FAFF;"<br />
|D-Link<br />
|D-Link 7 Port USB Hub<br />
|DUB-H7/B<br />
|<br />
|USB 2.0<br />
|7-Port<br />
|3.0&nbsp;A<br />
|Verified<br />
|[http://www.misco.co.uk/product/94282/D-Link-7-Port-USB-Hub] Power USB slots can be used to power Raspberry Pi.<br />
<br />
|- valign="top" align="left" style="background: #F5FAFF;"<br />
|D-Link<br />
|DUB-H7 High Speed USB 2.0 7-Port Hub<br />
|BUBH7A A5<br />
|<br />
|USB 2.0<br />
|7-Port<br />
|2.0&nbsp;A<br />
|Not Verified<br />
|[http://www.amazon.com/D-Link-DUB-H7-High-Speed-7-Port/dp/B00008VFAF]<br />
<br />
|- valign="top" align="left" style="background: #F5FAFF;"<br />
|D-Link<br />
|DUB-4 High Speed USB 2.0 4-Port Hub<br />
|DUB-H4<br />
|<br />
|USB 2.0<br />
|4-Port<br />
|2.0&nbsp;A<br />
|Verified<br />
|[http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16817111131] Charging port doesn't power Raspberry Pi<br />
<br />
|- valign="top" align="left" style="background: #F5FAFF;"<br />
|Digicom<br />
|<br />
|<br />
|<br />
|USB 2.0<br />
|4-Port<br />
|5&nbsp;V - 2.0&nbsp;A<br />
|Not Verified<br />
|[http://www.digicom.it/digisit/prodotti.nsf/itprodottiidx/MiniHubUsb204P#]<br />
<br />
|- valign="top" align="left" style="background: #F5FAFF;"<br />
|ednet<br />
|USB 2.0 7 port Hub<br />
|85014<br />
|<br />
|2.0<br />
|7-Port<br />
|<br />
|Not Verified<br />
|Works with keyboard, mouse, audio devices<br />
<br />
|- valign="top" align="left" style="background: #F5FAFF;"<br />
|Medi@com<br />
|USB 2.0 4 ports Hub<br />
|M-HX30<br />
|<br />
|2.0<br />
|4-port<br />
|<br />
|Verified<br />
|Very small USB Hub. Powers the Rapsberry Pi and an 2.5" external HDD (LaCie Rikiki 500Gb) without problems. I already tried to connect another HDD without problems even if is not yet been mounted on linux.<br />
[http://www.mediacomeurope.it/Prodotti/Scheda.aspx?XRI=1988]<br />
<br />
|- valign="top" align="left" style="background: #F5FAFF;"<br />
|mbeat<br />
|13 Port USB Hub<br />
|USB-M13HUB<br />
|<br />
|USB 2.0<br />
|13-port<br />
|5V - 3A<br />
|Verified<br />
|<br />
<br />
|- valign="top" align="left" style="background: #F5FAFF;"<br />
|Monoprice<br />
|Aquagate USB Hub<br />
|5328<br />
|<br />
|2.0<br />
|7-port<br />
|2.0&nbsp;A<br />
|Verified<br />
|Has separate USB In port, in theory should prevent backfeeding (but that is not verified). get about 4.9V across TP1/TP2 when idling with Raspbian. [http://www.monoprice.com/products/product.asp?c_id=103&cp_id=10307&cs_id=1030702&p_id=5328&seq=1&format=4]<br />
<br />
|- valign="top" align="left" style="background: #F5FAFF;"<br />
|Trust<br />
|Plata 4 port USB 2.0 hub<br />
|18687<br />
|<br />
|2.0<br />
|4-port<br />
|1.0&nbsp;A<br />
|Not Verified<br />
|Probably not suited to power the Rapsberry Pi but works well as a hub on the Pi.<br />
<br />
|-<br />
|}<br />
<br />
<br />
'*' Power Ratings may not be completely accurate, use as rough guideline rather than fact.<br />
</div><br />
<br />
<br />
*'''Acme'''<br />
** USB 2.0 hub 4 port ([http://www.acme.eu/en-us/product/019188 ACME]) Based on NEC μPD720114 USB2.0 Hub Controller USB ID 0409:005a '''NOTE!''' It is bus-powered hub, but it is very cheap and small and works after a small modding: on USB-hub board you have 4 holes: V, D+, D- and GND. Connect GND, D+ and D- to the Raspberry Pi, and additionally connect GND and +5&nbsp;V from power supply to the same holes on USB-hub GND and V. Now there is common contacts: GND, D+ and D- between Raspberry Pi and hub needed to work, and additional power for USB devices, connected to the hub. Tested on my Raspberry Pi.<br />
<br />
<br />
*'''Digitus'''<br />
** 7-port USB2.0 Powered Hub. Model DA-70226.<br />
*'''Eminent'''<br />
** [http://www.eminent-online.com/en/product/22/em1102-4-port-usb-hub---black.html] EM1102 4 Port USB 2.0 Hub with 1&nbsp;A power adapter. It's able to power the Raspberry Pi, external HDD and other peripherals.<br />
** [http://www.eminent-online.com/en/product/27/7-port-usb-2-0-hub.html] EM1107 7 Port USB 2.0 Hub with 2&nbsp;A power adapter. It's able to power the Raspberry Pi, external HDD and other peripherals.<br />
* '''GearHead'''<br />
** [http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B004OBZ088/] GearHead 4 Port Hub with Energy Saving Power Switch (5&nbsp;V, 1&nbsp;A)<br />
*'''Gembird'''<br />
** Gembird UHS 242 4-port USB 2.0 Hub (5V DC, 1A). '''NB:''' This is a 4-port switching hub that enables the "sharing" of up to four USB devices between two computers. Whilst it may be powered externally, it does take power from both connected computers. If one of them is, say, a netbook or laptop, that may provide sufficient extra power to enable the use of USB devices that the Pi alone cannot handle.<br />
* '''Genesys Logic (sold at Fry's)'''<br />
** Genesys Logic 4-Port USB 2.0 Hub (ID 05e3:0608) (Other brands include Gigaware and Belkin, same ID shows up in lsusb)<br />
** Genesys Logic 4-Port USB 2.0 Hub (ID 05e3:0606) (Other brands include i-Rocks, same ID shows up in lsusb)<br />
* '''Hama'''<br />
** Hama 4-way USB 2.0 Hub<br />
*'''HP'''<br />
** HP ZR2240w 21.5" Monitor with built in 2-Port USB Hub (B)<br />
* '''König Electronic'''<br />
** CMP-USB2HUB55 - 7 port USB2.0 HUB, (ID 1a40:0201 Terminus Technology Inc. Hub) 2.0&nbsp;A power supply, backpowers Raspberry Pi well.<br />
*'''Laser'''<br />
** "7 port USB hub with AC adapter Version 2.0". 5&nbsp;V 1&nbsp;A (found at Harvey Norman Australia for $24.95 and Australia Post Shops for $9.95). You can power the Raspberry Pi by connecting both the main USB connector to the Raspberry Pi USB port, '''and''' from a spare USB port back to the power micro USB socket. If you don't do both, boot-loops are likely to occur.<br />
*'''Logik'''<br />
** [http://www.currys.co.uk/gbuk/logik-lp4hub10-4-port-powered-usb-hub-04979038-pdt.html] LP4HUB10 4-Port USB Hub. '''Throws errors when used with Fedora remix 14'''<br />
** Logik L4THUB10 4 Port powered hub works fine under Raspbian/Wheezy/model B. Captive USB cable, 2&nbsp;A power supply, convenient single top mounted USB socket. Unlike my last hub, will power Wi-Fi!<br />
*'''LogiLink'''<br />
** UA0085 USB 2.0 Hub, 4-Port with PSU 5&nbsp;V, 2&nbsp;A<br />
** UA0091 USB 3.0 Hub, 4-Port with PSU 5&nbsp;V, 4&nbsp;A. Connected with USB2.0 cable. 1&nbsp;A per port, able to support USB HDD drives and other power hungry devices. Tested with kernel 3.1.9-cutdown, Wheezy. <br />
** UA0096 USB 2.0 Hub, 10-Port with PSU 5&nbsp;V, 3.5&nbsp;A (Not suitable for powering Raspberry Pi because it doesn't work unless there is working USB input present even with PSU plugged in.)<br />
** UA0160 USB 2.0 Hub, 4-Port with PSU 5&nbsp;V, 2&nbsp;A. Able to power the Raspberry Pi, keyboard, mouse and LogiLink UA0144 USB Ethernet adapter. (More testing to come.) Was not able to record audio properly via a Soundblaster Play! device.<br />
* '''Macally'''<br />
** [http://www.macally.com/EN/?page_id=2312] Hi-Speed 7-Port USB 2.0 Powered Micro HUB, AC Powered. Includes a 2000&nbsp;mA wall-wart (US style)<br />
* '''Manhattan'''<br />
** [http://manhattan-products.com/en-US/products/6500-hi-speed-usb-2-0-micro-hub] (#160612) Hi-Speed USB 2.0 Micro HUB, AC Powered (identifies as ID 05e3:0608 Genesys Logic) Includes a 1000&nbsp;mA wall-wart (US style)<br />
** [http://manhattan-products.com/en-US/products/9583-mondohub] (#161718) MondoHub 28 Port USB 3.0 & USB 2.0 HUB (24 USB 2 ports @500&nbsp;mA each) + (4 USB 3.0 Ports @900&nbsp;mA each) Power Switches on each port, AC Powered and Includes a 5&nbsp;V 4&nbsp;A wall-wart (US style)<br />
*'''Newlink'''<br />
** NLUSB2-224P 4 port USB 2.0 Mini hub with PSU 5&nbsp;V 1&nbsp;A<br />
** NLUSB2-222P 4 port USB 2.0 Hub with 5&nbsp;V 2&nbsp;A PSU (Available From [https://www.modmypi.com/shop/raspberry-pi-accessories/New-Link-4-Port-USB-Hub-(USB-2.0-with-Mains-Adaptor) | ModMyPi])<br />
*'''Nilox'''<br />
** Nilox USB 2.0 4port HUB model HUB4USB2AC with PSU 5&nbsp;V 1.0&nbsp;A<br />
* '''Plugable'''<br />
** [http://plugable.com/products/USB2-HUB4BC/] USB2-HUB4BC 4 Port USB 2.0 Hub with BC 1.1 Fast Charging. 5&nbsp;V 2.5&nbsp;A power supply. Powering Raspberry Pi via microUSB from a hub port. USB Audio peripheral tested and working.<br />
** [http://plugable.com/products/USB2-HUB10S] USB2-HUB10S 10 Port USB 2.0 Hub 2.5&nbsp;A power supply. Powering Raspberry Pi via microUSB from a hub port.<br />
** [http://plugable.com/products/USB2-HUB-AG7/] USB2-HUB-AG7 7 Port USB 2.0 Hub with 5&nbsp;V 3&nbsp;A power supply. There are US and UK power supply versions and it can be ordered in US and (for the UK version) many countries in Europe. There is a video showing this hub powering both the Raspberry Pi several peripherals at once[http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=pDA7MxFtoS0].<br />
<br />
* '''Pluscom'''<br />
** Pluscom 7 Port USB 2.0 Hub Model U7PH-3A with 3&nbsp;A PSU. USB ID 1a40:0101. Powering Raspberry Pi via microUSB from a hub port. Internally two 4 Port switches linked. Leaks power back up USB data cable to Raspberry Pi, but it is not really a problem when powering Raspberry Pi at the same time.<br />
*'''Satechi'''<br />
** ST-UH12P 12 port powered hub with 2 Control Switches. Also works while powering the Raspberry Pi.<br />
*'''Staples (Business Depot) (Bureau EN GROS)'''<br />
** Staples 4-port hub Item 607477-CA<br />
*'''StarTech.com'''<br />
** StarTech.com 7-port Compact USB 2.0 Hub (ST7202USB). Comes with 5&nbsp;V 2&nbsp;A supply. Shows in lsusb as two Genesys Logic, Inc. USB-2.0 4-Port HUBs (05e3:0608). Back powers Raspberry Pi (just, voltage across TP1 & TP2 is a little low when powered from this hub).<br />
*'''SumVision'''<br />
** Sumvision Slim 4 Port High Speed USB 2.0 HUB with PSU 5&nbsp;V 1.0&nbsp;A (from [http://www.7dayshop.com/catalog/account_history_info.php?page=1&order_id=5130107 | 7dayshop ])<br />
*'''Sitecom'''<br />
** CN-032 4 Port USB 2.0 Pocket Hub. Works for powering the Raspberry Pi, an USB WLAN Adapter, wireless Kbd+Mouse. Using an 2500&nbsp;mA Voltcraft <br />
** CN-060 4 Port USB 2.0 Hub powered with AC Adapter (1&nbsp;A). Powering Raspberry Pi via microUSB from a hub port.<br />
** CN-061 7 Port USB 2.0 Hub powered with AC Adapter. There is a voltage problem on the left half of the hub (4 ports) that do not deliver enough current to feed a wifi dongle (tested with an RTL8191S); you should not use these ports for anything important (keyboard keys will stick, self-powered USB hard disk will reset continuously). The remaining 3 ports on the right half are instead working as expected. [http://www.raspberrypi.org/phpBB3/viewtopic.php?f=28&t=24247]<br />
*'''Sweex'''<br />
** US014 4 Port USB 2.0 Hub<br />
*'''Targus'''<br />
** ACH81xx 7-port powered hub. 5&nbsp;V 3&nbsp;A power supply, with 2 high power ports. (possible conflicting behaviour with USB keyboard / Wi-Fi Dongles)<br />
** ACH63EU 4-port. Using a 5&nbsp;V 2&nbsp;A power supply, which isn't supplied with the hub, it is able to power the Raspberry Pi as well.<br />
*'''The Pi Hut'''<br />
** 7 Port USB Hub (from [http://thepihut.com/products/7-port-usb-hub-for-the-raspberry-pi The Pi Hut's Raspberry Pi Store])<br />
*'''Trendnet'''<br />
** [http://www.trendnet.com/products/proddetail.asp?prod=130_TU2-700&cat=49] TU2-700 7 Port Powered USB 2.0 Hub with AC Adapter (5&nbsp;V 2&nbsp;A)<br />
*'''Tripp-Lite'''<br />
** [http://www.tripplite.com/en/products/model.cfm?txtModelID=3167] U222-007-R 7 Port Powered USB 2.0 Hub with AC Adapter (5&nbsp;V 2.5&nbsp;A) Powering Raspberry Pi from the hub works.<br />
*'''Ultron'''<br />
** [http://www.ultron.de/v1/produktansicht.php?artnr=67072&kid=bfa8340c4e245...&l=en&WGType=Neue+USB-HUBS] UHN-710 7-port powered hub with PSU 5&nbsp;V, 3&nbsp;A. USB ID 1a40:0201.<br />
*'''VANTEC'''<br />
** 4 Port USB 2.0 Powered Hub Model: UGT-MH304. 5&nbsp;V 2&nbsp;A AC/DC adapter. Go 2.0 Mini hub.<br />
*'''Z-TEK'''<br />
** Z-TEK 7-port powered hub with PSU 5&nbsp;V, 4&nbsp;A. USB ID 1a40:0201.<br />
*"Unknown"<br />
** 10(7-4) port hub idVendor=1a40, idProduct=0201 / idVendor=1a40, idProduct=0101 works<br />
<br />
===Problem USB Hubs===<br />
<br />
Please check known workarounds [http://elinux.org/Rpi_USB_check-list here] before adding to the list<br />
<br />
*'''Addon'''<br />
** 7-Port Powered Hub - labelled ADDUH070P - Gives constant Eth0 errors on boot.<br />
*'''Belkin'''<br />
** 7-Port Powered Mobile Hub - device labelled F4U018, packaging labelled F5U701. lsusb reveals it to be two Genesys Logic 4-port hubs based on the GL850G chipset (vendor: 0x05e3 product: 0x0608) ganged together. Yields a lot of "handle_hc_chhltd_intr_dma:: XactErr without NYET/NAK/ACK" errors and device resets in /var/log/messages. Low speed devices such as keyboards work OK, Wi-Fi/mass storage is unreliable or broken. -- No error messages with the latest kernel, but it is still unstable with mass storage devices. Also, leaks current back to the Raspberry Pi (can be fixed by overtaping GND and +5&nbsp;V pinouts)<br />
** F4U022 7-Port powered USB hub (powered 5&nbsp;V, 2.6&nbsp;A), same as F4U018<br />
** 7-Port Powered Hub - device labled F5U237 Rev.3 - ID 050d:0237 Wired Ethernet fails to connect; gives "DWC OTG HCD URB enqueue failed adding QTD. Error status -4008" Result is same as DUB-H7 below.<br />
** F5U404 Hi-Speed USB 2.0 4-Port Mobile Hub. Faulty/bad design; Leaks current back up the cable to the Raspberry Pi.<br />
** F5U307 Hi-Speed USB 2.0 7-Port Hub (Powered, able to apply power to Raspberry Pi via micro USB from this hub at same time) It work's sometimes. (Works always without powering the Raspberry Pi, haven't tried that)<br />
<br />
*'''Dell'''<br />
** Dell U2410 Monitor Built-in 4 Port Hub - Shows up as a pair with 0424:2514 and 0424:2640. Standard Microsystems Corp. USB 2.0 Hub. When connecting some devices it kills the Ethernet with "smsc95xx 1-1.1:1.0: eth0: Failed to read register index 0x0000011X" errors. It did work for a keyboard and webcam. Bluetooth that works connected directly to the Raspberry Pi triggers the error.<br />
<br />
*'''DELTACO'''<br />
** 7-Port USB Hub UH-713 Rev 3. This one consists also of two 05e3:0608 Genesys Logic, Inc. USB-2.0 4-Port HUBs connected together. The power supply is rated at 5 V 2 A. It kills Ethernet when X11 is started.<br />
<br />
*'''Dynex'''<br />
** 7-Port USB Hub - Does not work in Debian 19-04 image.<br />
** DX-HB7PT 7-Port USB Hub - As per the Gear Head below, it's 2 daisy-chained Genesys Logic 05e3:0608 devices. Appears to result in significant slow downs when the USB is under load, such as running the root filesystem from a USB drive.<br />
<br />
*'''Dynamode'''<br />
** 7-Port USB 2.0 Hub (Silver and black). Feeds power back up the interconnect to the Raspberry Pi causing the power LED to light on the Raspberry Pi if the hub is powered on, but the Raspberry Pi is not. The Raspberry Pi also fails to boot when powered off this hub, with or without the interconnect plugged in. Stops the network from working when connected to the Raspberry Pi after booting the Raspberry Pi - cannot ssh to the Raspberry Pi. Best avoided. :-( Shows up in ''lsusb'' as a pair of ''ID 05e3:0608 Genesys Logic, Inc. USB-2.0 4-Port HUB'' which is interesting. - Confirmed. This hub also appears unable to power an external USB drive using a y-cable as it gives the error -71 message in dmesg (when providing external power to the Raspberry Pi).<br />
** 4-Port High-Speed USB 2.0 Hub (USB-H40-A2.0), came with with a 1&nbsp;A power supply. Leaks power to the Raspberry Pi through the uplink. Doesn't work with Raspberry Pi, unless the Raspberry Pi is powered by a second power source. This hub is completely generic and I've seen it being sold under different brand names as well. Therefore, a picture is [http://i.imgur.com/BPZ3j.jpg included] for easy identification. <br />
<br />
*'''D-Link'''<br />
** 7-Port USB Hub DUB-H7 (Crashes USB stack, including Ethernet, when plugging / using some peripherals). (See note above, it works with some distros and/or with latest firmware)<br />
<br />
*'''E-Solution'''<br />
** 4-Port 2&nbsp;A Supply (Does not detect at all during boot or after boot- no messages) [IC = Alcor Micro Corp (AU6254)]<br />
<br />
*'''Fosmon'''<br />
** 7-Port USB 2.0 Hub with 1&nbsp;A Power Supply (Causes interference with other USB devices and sends enough power to light up the Raspberry Pi with it's Micro USB cable unplugged).<br />
<br />
*'''Gear Head'''<br />
** UH7250MAC 7-port powered hub. Internally, two daisy-chained Genesys Logic 05e3:0608 devices. Causes Ethernet instability when used under very specific circumstances, in X11.<br />
** <strike>UH5200T 4-port powered hub. As of 2012-08-16 Wheezy, if any USB 1.x device (a keyboard, for example) is plugged into this hub, Ethernet stops, and USB interrupts for other devices get dropped (keys repeating forever), etc. Occurs even if power is not attached (not a power leakage problem).</strike> Appears working after a bootloader and/or firmware update on 9/12. Also, turned out to be somewhat more specific to the combination of two particular low-speed devices.<br />
<br />
*'''Hama'''<br />
** 4-Port USB 2.0 "bus hub", model 78496 (?). Only works for low power devices (card readers?), but it does not work for power hungry devices (HDD and WLAN). It doesn't boot when hub connected to Raspberry Pi. The funniest thing is that Raspberry Pi powers on when I plug in this hub to normal size USB port (not that small dedicated port). idVendor=05e3, idProduct=0608<br />
<br />
*'''Kensington'''<br />
** 7-Port Dome Hub model no 1500129 (Possible problems with malfunctioning keyboard, kills mouse when GUI started).<br />
<br />
*'''iBall'''<br />
** Piano 423 4-Port USB hub. Listed in lsusb as Genesys Logic. Fails to deliver enough power to connected devices even when using AC power suply.<br />
<br />
*'''Inland'''<br />
** 4-Port USB 2.0 Cable Hub model no 480426 (Some devices work, some don't, cheap unshielded untwisted wire design)<br />
<br />
*'''Logik'''<br />
** LP7HUB11 7-Port USB Hub. (Ethernet failed, slow response, in LXDE. Happened whether or not the hub's independent power supply was connected to the hub.)<br />
<br />
*'''Soniq'''<br />
** 4-Port 5&nbsp;V supply. Model number CUH100. (B). Appears to draw power away from the Raspberry Pi, even when the Raspberry Pi has an isolated power line. Netgear WNA1100 Wi-Fi Adapter (which is known to work in other setups is recognized, but it is unresponsive).<br />
<br />
*'''Targus'''<br />
** ACH115EU 7-port powered hub. 5&nbsp;V 3&nbsp;A power supply. Arduino communicates with Raspberry Pi when connected directly to Raspberry Pi's USB port, but it hangs as soon as if connected via ACH115. Also sometimes smsc95xx eth0 Failed to read register index 0x00000114 etc. errors in syslog when used.<br />
<br />
*'''TCM'''<br />
** Model 234298 s/n T634007737 powered hub. 4 ports plus card reader. 1&nbsp;A power supply. Model B, Wheezy Raspbian works OK with keyboard/mouse, but there are problems with Wi-Fi no connects. (insufficient power?)<br />
<br />
*'''Trust'''<br />
** 10-port USB 2.0 Hub (powered). Prevents Ethernet from being recognised.<br />
** SliZe 7 port USB 2.0 Hub (powered) - Item number 17080 (Barcode 8 713439 170801). Prevents Ethernet from being recognised. Keyboard sends multiple characters. <br />
<br />
*'''Unbranded / Multiple Brands'''<br />
** 7-port silver/black hub. Also sold elsewhere under brands such as 'EX-Pro', 'Trixes' and 'Xentra' -- This is ''probably'' due to an inadequate power supply. -- I replaced the terrible power supply with a very good one, kept getting "DEBUG: handle_hc_chhltd_intr_dma:: XactErr without NYET/NAK/ACK" in dmesg, with no devices plugged in to the hub (with or without the power supply in). Measurements by [[User:TrevorGowen|TrevorGowen]] ([[User talk:TrevorGowen|talk]]) of the power loading behaviour of an example of this type of hub and its supplied PSU are logged at [http://www.cpmspectrepi.webspace.virginmedia.com/raspberry_pi/MoinMoinExport/PoweredUSBHubs.html CPM-Spectre-Pi...PoweredUSBHubs], together with similar measurements of other devices.<br />
** Generic 7-port black hub with Genesys Logic GL850A chipset<br />
** Cerulian 10 Port USB 2.0 Top Loading Hub with 2&nbsp;A supply (kills mouse and network port)<ref>http://www.raspberrypi.org/forum/absolute-beginners/cheap-powered-usb-hub-uk/#p76452</ref><br />
** [http://www.monoprice.com/products/product.asp?c_id=103&cp_id=10307&cs_id=1030701&p_id=226 USB 2.0 4 PORT INT/EXT DUAL HUB BAY] -- Genesys Chipset -- idVendor=05e3, idProduct=0607 -- low speed devices worked, but there are strange USB failures when X session started. High speed devices such as hard drives had failures.<br />
<br />
== USB Remotes ==<br />
* ATI Remote Wonder (X10 Wireless Technology, Inc. X10 Receiver) — ID 0bc7:0004 — appears as a joystick-like 2 button mouse and a 0-9 keypad without drivers on console and X.<br />
<br />
* [http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B005DKZTMG/ref=oh_details_o02_s00_i00 Logitech Wireless Touch Keyboard K400 with Built-In Multi-Touch Touchpad (920-003070)] - keyboard and touchpad work. Have not verified multi-touch features.<br />
<br />
* [http://www.ipazzport.com/02A.html iPazzport] mini 2.4&nbsp;GHz wireless keyboard and touchpad. <br />
<br />
* [http://www.ortek.com/html/pdt_view.asp?area=46&cat=152&sn=76 PKB 1800] Wireless Smart Pad ad Mini Keyboard. The pad works as a mouse, but not multi touch features. The keyboard works.<br />
<br />
* [http://www.riitek.com/product_Info.asp?id=56 Riitek RT-MWK01] '''Rii''' Wireless 2.4&nbsp;GHz Keyboard-mouse Combo, also known as [http://www.digicom.it/digisit/prodotti.nsf/itprodottiidx/WKEYPE01 Digicom WKEYPE01], and [http://www.verkkokauppa.com/fi/product/52783 Prodige Nanox]. Working perfectly, just plug & play.<br />
<br />
* [https://www.google.com/search?q=tranksung+TS-Y150 Tranksung TS-Y150] USB RF Keyboard and air mouse (B)<br />
<br />
* [http://www.tigerdirect.com/applications/SearchTools/item-details.asp?EdpNo=6753651&CatId=3680# Exo Ultra U12-41310 Mini Keyboard] Bluetooth Adapter, Touchpad, Laser Pointer, Presentation & Multimedia Controls work perfectly, but it needs a little love and config for make it work.[https://github.com/thunderbirdtr/rs-pi-exo-keyboard Exo Installer script]<br />
<br />
== USB Keyboards ==<br />
USB keyboards that present themselves as a standard HID (Human Interface Device) device should work. '''Please be aware that some of these keyboards were probably used with a powered hub'''<br />
=== Working USB Keyboards ===<br />
The following is a list of specific keyboards known to work and which appear to work fault-free.<br />
<br />
* '''A4 Tech'''<br />
** Model KL-5 USB Keyboard, 20&nbsp;mA.<br />
<br />
* '''ABS'''<br />
** M1 Heavy Duty Professional Gaming Mechanical Keyboard (B)<br />
<br />
* '''Action Star'''<br />
** ACK-5010U Mini Keyboard And Mouse<br />
<br />
* '''Accuratus'''<br />
** KYB-Toughball-HI<br />
<br />
* '''Acer'''<br />
** KG-0917 Wireless Keyboard And Mouse Bundle (B)<br />
** KU-0906 Compact Keyboard (B) (Also known as Genius LuxeMate i200 Keyboard)<br />
** SK-9625 Multimedia Keyboard (B) (multimedia functions not tested)<br />
<br />
* '''Adesso'''<br />
** [http://ergoprise.com/product_images/j/699/ADP-PU21_big__14173_zoom.jpg PS/2 to USB Adapter] ADP-PU21, 100&nbsp;mA (tested only with keyboards) Any PS/2 keyboard will work only if it will work with a reduced operating voltage.<br />
** Model AKB-410UB. Keyboard with Touchpad.<br />
<br />
* '''Apple''' (Apple keyboards that have USB ports require an external powered hub to work, and do not work on the Raspberry Pi directly! Note: Apple keyboard works fine using the latest Raspberry Pi, even when connected directly (and with mouse connected))<br />
** [http://upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/thumb/e/ea/Apple_iMac_Keyboard_A1243.png/800px-Apple_iMac_Keyboard_A1243.png Apple Keyboard with Numeric Keypad (aluminium/wired) A1243]<br />
** [http://upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/8/81/Apple_Keyboard_A1242.jpg Apple Keyboard (aluminium/wired) A1242]<br />
<br />
* '''Asda'''<br />
** Basic Wired Keyboard HK2026 (B)<br />
** Basic Wired Keyboard HK3014<br />
*** (Please note when I put this keyboard through Newlink USB hub, it didn't work as expected)<br />
** Premium Wireless Keyboard (white keys, silver back) HK8028<br />
** Wireless Multimedia Deskset (keyboard, mouse and USB dongle) Model: HKM8016B (Note: Shown on Asda Website as HK8016B) (B)<br />
<br />
* '''Asus'''<br />
** KS-631U (comes with Asus Vento KM-63 keyboard/mouse set, not using powered hub) (B)<br />
<br />
* '''Banbridge'''<br />
** [http://www.kurpirkti.lt/imagesi/infodb/org_d69dbd9707af8df77eae6e005f681a9a/BANDRIDGE-USB-2X-PS-2-ADAPTER.jpg PS/2 to USB Banbridge CPA4002 Adapter] (B) (Tested with Logitech C-SF17 Cordless Desktop Express)<br />
<br />
* '''BTC - Behavior Tech Computer Corp.'''<br />
** Wired Portable Keyboard Model 6100 US (86+9 keys)<br />
*** Works with or without a powered hub<br />
** Wireless Multimedia Keyboard with build in pointer/mouse Model 9029URF III (86+17 keys) (B)<br />
** [http://www.btc.com.tw/english/2-7-07keyboard.htm Wired Multimedia keyboard 6311U/6310U] - rated at 5&nbsp;V/100&nbsp;mA, works directly<br />
<br />
* '''Bush'''<br />
** Wired Slimline Keyboard KU-0833<br />
*** This does not require a USB hub in order to work with the Raspberry Pi<br />
*** In the UK, it is available from Argos for £9.99<br />
<br />
* '''Cerulian''' <br />
** Mini wireless keyboard and mouse deskset (B)<br />
<br />
* '''CD Training''' <br />
** [http://www.cd-training.fr/?&feed=product&product_id=308 Wireless Combo Keyboard and Mouse (SolClavGlos)]<br />
<br />
* '''Cherry'''<br />
** CyMotion Master Linux (B)<br />
** RS 6000 USB ON<br />
** G84-4100PTMUS (B) (Compact keyboard. Rated 100&nbsp;mA. Works directly in Raspberry Pi)<br />
** G85-23100DE-2 (B) (Rated 40&nbsp;mA, tested with RPi powered by a 1000&nbsp;mA power supply unit)<br />
<br />
* '''Compaq'''<br />
** Compaq Internet Keyboard KU-9978 (049f:000e). Rated 5&nbsp;V 100&nbsp;mA. Works directly connected to Raspberry Pi<br />
<br />
* '''Das Keyboard'''<br />
** Model S Professional Keyboard (Built in USB hub not tested) (B)<br />
** Model S Ultimate Keyboard (Built in USB hub working) (B)<br />
<br />
* '''Dell'''<br />
** SK-8115 (B) (Rated 100&nbsp;mA. Works directly in Raspberry Pi)<br />
** L100 (B)<br />
** RT7D40 (100&nbsp;mA. Works directly in Raspberry Pi)<br />
** RT7D50 (75&nbsp;mA) (run "sudo dpkg-reconfigure keyboard-configuration")<br />
** KB1421 (100&nbsp;mA)<br />
** KB2521 (100&nbsp;mA)<br />
** KB212-B (Works directly in Raspberry Pi, without powered hub)<br />
** 1HF2Y (Works directly in Raspberry Pi)<br />
** Bluetooth Wireless Keyboard and Mouse Bundle (B), Bluetooth USB dongle C-UV35 (Rated 500&nbsp;mA, but it works great), Keyboard Y-RAQ-DEL2, Mouse M-RBB-DEL4<br />
<br />
* '''Delux'''<br />
** K8050<br />
<br />
* '''Digicom'''<br />
** WKEYPE01 Wireless 2.4&nbsp;GHz Keyboard-mouse Combo, also known as [http://www.riitek.com/product_Info.asp?id=56 Riitek RT-MWK01] and [http://www.verkkokauppa.com/fi/product/52783 Prodige Nanox]<br />
<br />
* '''Dynex'''<br />
** DX_-WKBD (60&nbsp;mA) (B)<br />
** DX_-WKBDSL (Hot keys not yet tested with Debian) (tested through non-powered 3 dongle USB hub) (B)<br />
<br />
* '''EAPPLY'''<br />
** EBO-013 Wireless 2.4&nbsp;GHz compact keyboard with touchpad. Rated <40&nbsp;mA works directly from Raspberry Pi. eBay ref 260962010276 from Shenzen, China.<br />
<br />
* '''Emprex'''<br />
** Wireless Media Control Keyboard With Trackball 9039ARF III (Media functions untested)<br />
<br />
* '''Fujitsu Siemens''' <br />
** KB SC USB UK (!)<br />
** KB910 USB, with led light on the highest level (B)<br />
** KB400 USB US<br />
<br />
* '''GE''' <br />
** 98139 Rev.K1 (Power Keyboard) (lsusb shows it as "0b38:0010 Gear Head 107-Key Keyboard") - works without a hub (i.e. directly connected) (B)<br />
<br />
* '''Gear Head''' <br />
** KB3700TP (USB Mini Smart Touch Touchpad Keyboard) (B)<br />
** KB3800TP (Wireless Touch Mini Touchpad Keyboard with Smart Touch) (B)<br />
*** Works when plugged directly into Raspberry Pi, did not work with powered hub (could be a hub issue)<br />
** KB3800TPW (Windows Smart Touch Wireless Keyboard with Touchpad) (B)RASPBMC supported >> also see Problem USB Keyboards<br />
** KB4950TPW (Wireless Touch II Touchpad Keyboard) (B)<br />
** KB1500U (USB Mini Keyboard) (B)<br />
** KB5150 (2.4&nbsp;GHz wireless keyboard/mouse Combo) (B)<br />
*** Works well with a powered hub<br />
<br />
* '''Generic'''<br />
** [http://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B00A8D9ZPA/ref=oh_details_o06_s00_i00 AK-601] Wireless Mini-keyboard and Trackball. Works well as a handheld device, the wireless dongle does not appear to draw excessive current. However, since its USB charging port requires 5V 300mA it does need to be recharged from a netbook/laptop USB port or via a (spare) USB charger.<br />
<br />
* '''Genius'''<br />
** Ergomedia 700 (GK-04008/C) used without Hub<br />
** KB-06XE (K639) (B)<br />
** LuxeMate i200 (GK-090017; not tested with Hub)<br />
** Slimstar 8000 wireless keyboard<br />
<br />
* '''Gigabyte'''<br />
** GK-KM7580 2.4&nbsp;GHz Wireless Multimedia Keyboard & Mouse<br />
<br />
* '''HP'''<br />
** KG-1061<br />
** KG-0851 Wireless Keyboard and Mouse<br />
** KU-0316 (B)<br />
** LV290AA#ABA Wireless Keyboard and Mouse<br />
** PR1101U (available from Sainsbury's in the UK, £8, July 2012)<br />
** SK-2880<br />
<br />
* '''Hyundai'''<br />
** HY-K201<br />
<br />
* '''iConcepts'''<br />
** 2.4&nbsp;GHz Wireless Keyboard and Optical Mouse Model 62550<br />
*** (saves a USB port since keyboard and mouse share one transceiver, $14.99 at Fry's Electronics)<br />
<br />
* '''Imation''' <br />
** KBD-702 Multi-media Wired Keyboard<br />
*** (works after the firmware update via [https://github.com/Hexxeh/rpi-update rpi-update] as of 06/27/2012)<br />
<br />
* '''IOGEAR'''<br />
** IOGEAR GKM561R Wireless HTPC Multimedia Keyboard with Trackball<br />
** IOGEAR GKM681R 2.4&nbsp;GHz Wireless Compact Keyboard with Optical Trackball and Scroll Wheel<br />
<br />
* '''iPazzPort'''<br />
<br />
* '''i.t.works'''<br />
** KC04 (direct and by USB hub)<br />
** KC Silicone (only tested directly)<br />
<br />
* '''Jenkins'''<br />
** Jenkins Wireless Desktop Set Blue (B)<br />
<br />
* '''KeySonic'''<br />
** ACK-540RF (Wireless USB keyboard with built-in trackpad); works fine on Debian Squeeze plugged directly into Raspberry Pi. Also works with Raspbmc with powered hub.<br />
** ACK-540RF+ (UK) Wi-Fi keyboard incl. touchpad with USB Wi-Fi dongle works fb with on model B/Raspbian/Wheezy via powered hub<br />
** ACK-3700C<br />
** ACK-340U+(DE)<br />
** ACK-3400U (UK) mini keyboard<br />
** ACK-612RF (GER) Wireless Mini-Keyboard; works fine with its wireless adpater plugged directly into Raspberry Pi<br />
<br />
* '''Labtec'''<br />
** [http://www.labtec.com/index.cfm/gear/details/EUR/EN,crid=28,contentid=692| Ultra-flat Keyboard]<br />
<br />
* '''Laptopmate'''<br />
** AK-98UNTN7-UBRII Laptopmate RII Touch N7 Mini Wireless Keyboard with touchpad<br />
<br />
* '''LC-Power<br />
** K1000BMW (lsusb: ID 1241:f767 Belkin; dmesg: HOLTEK Wireless 2.4&nbsp;GHz Trackball Keyboard) tested with Debian 6.0.4<br />
<br />
* '''Lenovo'''<br />
** SK-8825 UK (B)<br />
** Lenovo Enhanced Multimedia Remote with backlit keyboard N5902 (US)<br />
** Lenovo Mini Wireless Keyboard N5901 (US)<br />
<br />
* '''Lindy'''<br />
** 21840 (Wireless RF 2.4&nbsp;GHz Micro Keyboard with built-in optical touchpad/trackpad, USB); works fine on model B/Raspbian/Wheezy - the supplied Lindy USB nano dongle transceiver plugged directly into Raspberry Pi USB port.<br />
<br />
* '''Logik'''<br />
** Ultra slim keyboard LKBWSL11 (B) >> '''This is also listed under Problem USB Keyboards?'''<br />
** LK212(R, B, P, V, O at the end represents the colour ) Wireless Keyboard paired with wireless receiver<br />
<br />
* '''Logitech'''<br />
** Comfort Wave 450, labeled 100&nbsp;mA (M/N Y-U0001, P/N 820-001725, PID SC951C40001)<br />
** diNovo Mini wireless keyboard with media controls and clickpad 920-000586 (B)<br />
** diNovo Edge Keyboard, Windows edition, built-in TouchDisc track-pad, Bluetooth with USB mini-receiver 967685-0403 (B)<br />
*** older model 867777-0403 may need '''dwc_otg.speed=1''' added to cmdline.txt to avoid dropped/repeated keys and dropped mousepad taps/clicks (B)<br />
**** after Raspbian dist-upgrade about 12/12/12, if '''/lib/udev/rules.d/97-bluetooth-hid2hci.rules''' exists and di Novo Edge fails to respond, edit tail of line after "# Logitech devices" in that file from '''c71['''34'''bc]''' to '''c71[bc]''' to ignore c713 and c714 (do not wordwrap long line), then it works fine<br />
** Wii wireless keyboard KG-0802 (!)<br />
** C-BG17-Dual Wireless keyboard and mouse with wired USB receiver (B)<br />
** Deluxe 250 Keyboard<br />
** Internet 350 (M/N 967740-0403)<br />
** Internet Navigator Keyboard<br />
** MK120 wired keyboard and mouse<br />
** MK220 wireless keyboard and mouse<br />
** MK250 wireless keyboard and mouse (no hub needed)<br />
** MK260 wireless keyboard and mouse (no hub needed)<br />
** MK300 wireless keyboard and mouse<br />
** MK320 wireless keyboard and mouse [http://www.amazon.co.uk/Logitech-920-002885-MK320-Wireless-Desktop/dp/B003STDQYW/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1339166178&sr=8-3]<br />
** MK350 wireless keyboard (using Unifying receiver)<br />
** MK520 wireless keyboard and mouse<br />
** MK550 wireless keyboard and mouse (B)<br />
** MX3200 wireless keyboard and mouse (B)<br />
** MX5000 Bluetooth keyboard and mouse (B) The Logitech Bluetooth dongle also does proprietary wireless so it works without Bluetooth drivers.<br />
** EX100 Cordless Desktop, Wireless Keyboard and Mouse (B)<br />
** EX110 Cordless Desktop, wireless keyboard and mouse (B)<br />
** C-SF17 Cordless Desktop Express, Wireless Keyboard and Mouse (B) PS/2 Interface. Tested using [http://www.kurpirkti.lt/imagesi/infodb/org_d69dbd9707af8df77eae6e005f681a9a/BANDRIDGE-USB-2X-PS-2-ADAPTER.jpg PS/2 to USB Banbridge CPA4002 Adapter]<br />
** K120 Keyboard (B)<br />
** K200 Keyboard (B)<br />
** K230 Wireless Keyboard (Unifying receiver, no powered hub) (B)<br />
** K340 Wireless Keyboard (Unifying receiver, no powered hub) (B)<br />
** K350 Wireless Keyboard (B)<br />
** K400 wireless keyboard with touchpad - also listed under "problematic". Works for weeks with openelec and Raspbian without any problems. Worked out of the box - the on/off switch needs to be "on" for it to function correctly. Highly recommended if you are "working from the sofa". <br />+1 on this, works out of the box with 2012-10-28-wheezy, no powered hub.<br />
** K520 Keyboard (B)<br />
** K700 Wireless Keyboard with Touchpad and unifying receiver<br />
** K750 Wireless Solar Keyboard (B) (Mac version works too. (B) )<br />
** LX 710 - works fine with receiver plugged directly into the Raspberry Pi (accompanying mouse works fine too).<br />
** S510 wireless keyboard and mouse (B)<br />
** Ultra-Flat Keyboard (M/N Y-BP62A P/N 820-000245 PID SY126UK)labelled 100&nbsp;mA. OK direct into Model B Raspberry Pi.<br />
** G19 Gaming Keyboard, works fine with no external power. Illumination with external power. Powered hum in back of keyboard works too.<br />
** G15 Gaming keyboard, as long as you press the backlight button twice to turn off the backlight (it says below it dosen't work with backlight on.<br />
** V470 Bluetooth Laser Mouse<br />
<br />
''Keyboards and mice also together with Unifying receiver'' <br />
<br />
* '''macally'''<br />
**macally iKey slim (IKEY5V2)<br />
<br />
* '''Microsoft''' <br />
**Microsoft Comfort Curve Keyboard 2000<br />
**Microsoft Comfort Curve Keyboard 3000 for Business<br />
**Microsoft Digital Media Pro Keyboard Model: 1031 (Debian 13-Apr-2012)<br />
**Microsoft Natural Ergonomic Keyboard 4000 (B) (Debian "Wheezy" beta 18-June-2012)<br />
**Microsoft Wired Keyboard 600 Model 1366 (Debian 28-May-2012 on Production Model B)<br />
**Microsoft Wireless Desktop 700 Keyboard v2.0 (Raspbian Pisces image 08-June-2012 on Production Model B)<br />
**Microsoft Wireless Photo Keyboard (Model 1027) Unifying receiver, no hub<br />
**Microsoft Wireless Natural Multimedia Keyboard (Raspbian Pisces 08-July-2012) (B)<br />
**Microsoft Windows 2000 Keyboard (KB-USBK110610)<br />
**[https://www.microsoft.com/hardware/en-us/p/wired-keyboard-600/ANB-00001 Microsoft Wired Keyboard 600]. The keyboard is rated at 5&nbsp;V/100&nbsp;mA (Wheezy 5-Sept-2012)<br />
<br />
* '''Mikomi''' <br />
** Wireless Deskset KM80545 Keyboard and mouse (it works, but the range is terrible less than a metre) (B)<br />
<br />
* '''Monoprice'''<br />
** [http://www.monoprice.com/products/product.asp?c_id=104&cp_id=10404&cs_id=1040401&p_id=6854&seq=1&format=2|Monoprice PS/2 To USB Adapter] Directly and through an unpowered hub with a USB mouse plugged in.<br />
<br />
* '''Motorola'''<br />
<br />
** Bluetooth wireless ultra slim keyboard and mouse combo (sold as for the "Atrix" phone) work in combination with the Technika Bluetooth adaptor listed below<br />
<br />
* '''Novatech'''<br />
** [http://www.novatech.co.uk/products/peripherals/desktopkits/nov-wcombo.html|Novatech Wireless Combo - Keyboard & Mouse, Nano adapter] (B)<br />
<br />
* '''ONN'''<br />
**ONN Keyboard Stock No: ONA11HO089 (from Walmart). Seems to work fine, even without a hub.<br />
**ONN Keyboard Stock No: ONA11HO087 (from Walmart). Combination keyboard and mouse package with nano receiver. Be sure to configure keyboard layout.<br />
<br />
* '''Ortek'''<br />
** Ortek Technology, Inc. [http://www.ortek.com/html/pdt_view.asp?area=46&cat=150&sn=79 WKB-2000S] Wireless Keyboard with Touchpad works fine on Raspbian Wheezy and Raspbmc. Wireless USB receiver (device ID 05a4:2000) is recognised automatically. Connected directly to Raspberry Pi USB port, no powered hub used.<br />
<br />
* '''Perixx''' <br />
**Periboard 716 Wireless Ultra-Slim Keyboard with Touchpad (Debian 07-Jun-2012 on Production Model B)<br />
** PERIBOARD-502 wired keyboard inc built in touchpad (model B/Raspbian Wheezy)<br />
** Periduo-707 Plus (Wireless Keyboard and Mouse) works fine ''most'' of the time. Does suffer from dropouts and glitches though. Usual "drawing too much power from USB" problems show up as well - dropped key presses or constant autorepeats. These can be cured by pulling out and reinserting the dongle in the USB socket. The keyboard sometimes hangs after power on when used with my laptop - it seems to need 30 seconds of non-use before it works fine. Again, remove and insert the dongle cures it. Works fine vi my Benq monitor's USB Hub.<br />
<br />
* '''Philips''' <br />
**Wired Multimedia Keyboard SPK3700BC/97 (Debian 19-Apr-2012 on Production Model B)<br />
<br />
* '''Prodige'''<br />
**Nanox Wireless 2.4&nbsp;GHz Keyboard-mouse Combo, also known as [http://www.riitek.com/product_Info.asp?id=56 Riitek RT-MWK01] and [http://www.digicom.it/digisit/prodotti.nsf/itprodottiidx/WKEYPE01 Digicom WKEYPE01]<br />
<br />
* '''Rapoo'''<br />
**Rapoo E9080 Wireless Ultra-Slim Keyboard with Touchpad<br />
**Rapoo Wireless Multi-media Touchpad Keyboard E2700 [http://www.rapoo.com/showdetails.aspx?P_No=E2700]<br />
**Rapoo Ultra-Slim Wireless Multimedia Keyboard and Mouse E9060 (works proper on powered USB Hub)<br />
<br />
*'''Riitek'''<br />
**RT-MWK03 mini wireless keyboard & trackpad<br />
**RT-MWK02+ mini Bluetooth keyboard & trackpad. Followed instructions from this page: [http://www.ctheroux.com/2012/08/a-step-by-step-guide-to-setup-a-bluetooth-keyboard-and-mouse-on-the-raspberry-pi/] and it worked, connection persists across reboots, no problem with either builtin USB or powered USB hub.<br />
**RT-MWK01 mini wireless 2.4&nbsp;GHz Keyboard-mouse Combo, also known as [http://www.digicom.it/digisit/prodotti.nsf/itprodottiidx/WKEYPE01 Digicom WKEYPE01], and [http://www.verkkokauppa.com/fi/product/52783 Prodige Nanox]<br />
<br />
*'''Rosewill'''<br />
** RK-200 Standard Keyboard<br />
<br />
*'''Saitek'''<br />
** Eclipse II Backlit Keyboard PK02AU (B)<br />
** Eclipse Backlit Keyboard PZ30AV (B) - works fine when connected directly to Raspberry Pi rev.1 and 2 USB port. No powered hub used.<br />
** Expression Keyboard (US) <br />
** Cyborg V.5 (B)<br />
<br />
*'''SelecLine'''<br />
** WK11P & WM11P-SP-PP. Keyboard and mouse set. (B)<br />
<br />
*'''SIIG'''<br />
** SIIG Wireless Multi-Touchpad Mini Keyboard 02-1286A v1.0 (B)<br />
<br />
*'''Silvercrest'''<br />
** MTS2219 Wireless Keyboard and mouse set. Powered hub NOT used. (B) <br />
<br />
*'''SolidTek'''<br />
** Solid Tek KB-P3100BU ASK-3100U. <br />
<br />
*'''Sony'''<br />
** Keyboard for PlayStation 2 (PS2) Linux. Works without powered hub with 5&nbsp;V 1&nbsp;A supply, requires manual keyboard remapping with Debian Squeeze to USA 101-key layout.<br />
<br />
* '''SteelSeries'''<br />
** Merc keyboard (B)<br />
<br />
* '''Sun Microsystems'''<br />
** Model: Type 7, SUN PN: 320-1348-02 (Danish key layout)<br />
** Model: Type 6, SUN PN: 320-1279-01 (Danish key layout)<br />
<br />
* '''Sweex'''<br />
** [http://www.sweex.com/en/assortiment/input/keyboards/KB060UK/ KB060UK] Wired Multimedia Keyboard<br />
<br />
* '''Technika'''<br />
** WKEY03 (B)<br />
** TKD-211<br />
<br />
* '''Tesco'''<br />
** Value Keyboard VK109 (B)<br />
** Multimedia K211 Wired Keyboard (B)<br />
<br />
*'''The Pi Hut'''<br />
** Super Slim Apple Style Keyboard (from [http://thepihut.com/products/usb-keyboard-for-the-raspberry-pi The Pi Hut's Raspberry Pi Store])<br />
** Super Slim Apple Style Keyboard Set (Keyboard & Mouse) (from [http://thepihut.com/products/usb-keyboard-mouse-bundle-for-the-raspberry-pi The Pi Hut's Raspberry Pi Store])<br />
<br />
* '''Trust'''<br />
** Trust [http://trust.com/17585 17585] Wireless Deskset (mouse and keyboard) (17585-02) No hub needed.<br />
** Trust [http://trust.com/17916 17916] Compact Wireless Entertainment Keyboard http://www.trust.com/products/product.aspx?artnr=17916 (B)<br />
** Trust [http://trust.com/17184 17184] ClassicLine Keyboard <br />
** Trust [http://trust.com/16087 16087] Camiva MultiMedia Keyboard http://trust.com/products/product.aspx?artnr=16087<br />
** Trust [http://trust.com/17603 17603] Convex Keyboard http://trust.com/products/product.aspx?artnr=17603 tested Debian 6-19-04-2012 and archlinuxarm-13-06-2012 (B)<br />
** Trust [http://trust.com/18007 18007] Tocamy Wireless Entertainment Keyboard. Tested with raspbian and powered USB HUB.<br />
<br />
* '''Unbranded'''<br />
** AK-601 Wireless Mini Keyboard and Trackball (with laser pointer) - sourced from eBay Chinese seller<br />
<br />
* '''Unicomp'''<br />
** USB Endurapro - keyboard and trackpoint work perfectly from powered hub<br />
<br />
* '''Q-Connect'''<br />
** AK-808 (B)<br />
<br />
* '''Xenta'''<br />
** 2.4&nbsp;GHz Wireless Multimedia Entertainment Keyboard with Touchpad (B)<br />
** Mini Multimedia Keyboard (Model no.: 808M) (B)<br />
<br />
===Problem USB Keyboards===<br />
<br />
Note that generally PS/2 keyboards with an USB adapter will not work directly on a Raspberry Pi port, due to the fact that PS/2 keyboards are designed for normal 5&nbsp;V +-5% range, while USB keyboards must be designed to work with 4.4 Volt, and generally USB devices on the Raspberry Pi may receive less than 4.75 Volt. PS/2 + USB adapter keyboards might work behind a powered hub, which does provide the full 5.0&nbsp;V. Some of these keyboards work when running the latest Raspbian, but not when using the overclocked XBMC version of Raspbmc, probably due to the overclocking drawing more power away from the rest of the support system devices.<br />
<br />
* '''A4 Tech'''<br />
** Model GL-6 USB Keyboard, 20&nbsp;mA. Part of wireless keyboard/mouse bundle GL-6630 (GL-6 + G7-630 + RN-10B) - suffers from USB flakeyness. Even on a powered hub. No problems on other computers I have tested it with.<br />
* '''Accuratus'''<br />
** Accuratus KYBAC100-101USBBLK causes kernel panic (rated 100&nbsp;mA). Tested with 1000&nbsp;mA cheap unbranded and Nokia 1200&nbsp;mA power adaptors.<br />
* '''Apple'''<br />
** [http://www.powerbookmedic.com/xcart1/images/D/apple-keyboard.jpg Apple Keyboard (109 keys) A1048]. Draws too much power and does not seem to work properly when plugged into a powered hub. <br />
*'''Argos'''<br />
** Argos Value Wired Keyboard causes kernel panic<br />
* '''Choidy'''<br />
** Identifiers from usb-devices: Vendor=1a2c ProdID=0002 Rev=01.10 Product=USB Keykoard (yes, 'Keykoard') causes kernel panic<br />
* '''Cit''' <br />
** KB-1807UB Causes kernel panic (rated <200&nbsp;mA)<br />
* '''Dell'''<br />
** SK-8135 (B) (Rated 1.5&nbsp;A. Takes too much power from Raspberry Pi even when not used as USB hub. Symptom = repeated keystrokes)<br />
** SK-8115 causes kernel panic (rated 100&nbsp;mA) Debian 6-19-04-2012 (B)<br />
** Y-U0003-DEL5 Sticky / Non-responsive keys<br />
** Wireless Trackball Keyboard with trackball - problem sticky keys definitely not power issue as the dongle works even at 3V<br />
* '''Gear Head'''<br />
** KB2300U - Causes kernel panic (B)<br />
** KB3800TPW - Wireless Touch Touchpad Keyboard - Wireless dongle disrupts USB and ethernet whether direct or on powered hub, no keyboard/mousepad response in Raspbian (logged in syslog) or Raspbmc (no logs written)(B)<br />
* '''GMYLE'''<br />
** Wired USB Slim Chocolate Multimedia Media Typing Keyboard With 3 USB Port hub (B) - Kernel Panic on startup if plugged in. If plugged in at login prompt then freeze. [http://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B0067EC3GW/]<br />
* '''Inland''' <br />
** Inland USB Keyboard Model #70010<br />
* '''Jeway'''<br />
** JK-8170 "The Hunter" - causes kernel oops (Debian6-19-04-2012) (B)<br />
* '''Labtec'''<br />
** ultra-flat wireless desktop USB - Keyboard has 'sticky' keys. Tested both debian6-19-04-2012 and archlinuxarm-13-06-2012 (B)<br />
* '''Logik'''<br />
** Wired Multimedia Keyboard Model: LKBWMM11 - causes kernel panic (on Debian 190412 distro) (B)<br />
** Wired Ultra Slim Keyboard Model: LKBWSL11 - causes USB power issues. Not reliable. Causes other USB devices to fail (B) >> '''This is also listed under Working USB Keyboards??'''<br />
* '''Logitech'''<br />
** Logitech Illuminated Keyboard (unstable; not working with led light on; tested both US and NO layouts with both Apple iPad 2 and Asus TF-101 USB chargers)<br />
** G110 Gaming Keyboard - only works with illumination off, otherwise unresponsive. Once failed it needs reconnecting before another attempt. (B)<br />
** G15 Gaming Keyboard - LCD and key backlights flicker, 95% unresponsive to typing. I don't know of a way to turn the illumination off. (B)<br />
** K360 Wireless Keyboard - Occasional sticky keys. (B)<br />
** MK 260 Wireless Keyboard - Occasional sticky keys. (B)<br />
** K400 wireless keyboard with touchpad (completely non-functional on debian6-19-04-2012)<br />
** G510 Gaming Keyboard - lagging or unresponsive keys.<br />
** MX5500 wireless keyboard and mouse with USB Bluetooth reciever - Unstable, looses connection without prior notice<br />
** EX100 Cordless Desktop, wireless keyboard and mouse. Mouse and keyboard hangs every few minutes (with or without hub).<br />
* '''Microsoft''' <br />
** Wireless Desktop 800 - Keyboard has 'sticky' keys. (B)<br />
** Wireless Entertainment Keyboard - No key input recognized (possibly connectivity issue as pairing devices does not seem to work)<br />
** Wireless Optical Desktop 1000 - Keyboard has 'sticky' keys (B)<br />
** Wireless Keyboard 2000 - Keyboard has 'sticky' keys. (B)<br />
** Wireless Desktop 3000 - Keyboard has 'sticky' keys.<br />
** Arc wireless - Keyboard has 'sticky' keys. (B)<br />
** Sidewinder X4 - Keyboard has 'sticky' keys. (B)<br />
** Sidewinder X6 - Keyboard has 'sticky' keys. (B)<br />
** Wireless Comfort Keyboard 5000 - Keyboard has 'sticky' keys. (B)<br />
** Razer Reclusa - Keyboard has 'sticky' keys. (B rev 2.0)<br />
** Wired Keyboard 600 Model 1366 (B) (no power to keyboard, RPi powered by a 1000&nbsp;mA power supply unit)<br />
* '''Novatech'''<br />
** NOV-KEY2 - Causes kernel panic (B)<ref>http://www.raspberrypi.org/forum/troubleshooting/keyboard-creates-kernal-panic/page-2</ref><br />
* '''PC World Essentials'''<br />
** PKBW11 Wired Keyboard - no power to keyboard, no error messages on both Arch 29-04-2012 and Debian6-19-04-2012, the same Raspberry Pi works with Asda keyboard. Me too, but it caused a kernel panic -- tested on powered hub and direct.<br />
* '''Razer'''<br />
** Razer Tarantula gaming keyboard - sticky keys, could be power issue as is programmable with host powered USB hub and audio jacks.<br />
** Razer BlackWidow - Sticky keys, could be a power related issue due to illuminated logo (Blue LED).<br />
** Razer Arctosa - Sticky keys, most probably power related issue since it states it's rated at 5&nbsp;V 500&nbsp;mA. (B)<br />
* '''SIIG'''<br />
** Wireless Ultra Slim Multimedia Mini Keyboard JK-WR0612-S1 - Unresponsive and sticky keys.<br />
* '''Texet'''<br />
** MB-768B standard keyboard (Rated 5&nbsp;V 1.5&nbsp;A (!), so probably too much power drain. Kernel panic, Debian6-19-04-2012)<br />
* '''Trust''' <br />
** TRUST GXT 18 Gaming Keyboard - No power to keyboard, could be a driver issue - no error messages.<br />
* '''Unbranded'''<br />
** Compuparts<br />
** model no. HK-6106 (B) <ref>http://www.raspberrypi.org/forum/troubleshooting/keyboard-creates-kernal-panic/page-2</ref><br />
** LK-890 (Multimedia keyboard & Optical Mouse) - kernel panic on Debian Squeeze, ArchLinux and Qtonpi.<br />
* '''Verbatim'''<br />
** [http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B004LB5AKY/ref=oh_details_o00_s00_i02|Verbatim 97472 Mini Wireless Slim Keyboard and Mouse] - Keyboard has lagging, unresponsive and sticky keys issues. (Tested with and without powered USB hub.)<br />
* '''Wilkinsons / TEXET'''<br />
** Model MB-768B causes kernel panic on debian6-19-04-2012.<br />
* '''Xenta'''<br />
** HK-6106 - causes kernel panic (on Debian 190412 distro)(B)<br />
** Multimedia Wireless Keyboard and Mouse Set (Keyboard Model: HK3518B + Mouse Model HM3301) (B) - occasional sticky keys, and occasional complete lock-up<br />
<br />
== USB Mouse devices ==<br />
USB mouse devices that present themselves as a standard HID (Human Interface Device) device should work, however some hardware requires special drivers or additional software, usually only compatible with Windows operating systems. <br />
<br />
===Working USB Mouse Devices===<br />
The following is a list of specific mouse devices known to work and which appear to be fault-free.<br />
<br />
* '''A4Tech'''<br />
** OP-530NU Padless Wired Mouse<br />
<br />
* '''Apple'''<br />
** Apple Mighty Mouse (Model No. A1152): Works well with the exception of the scroll ball only transmitting vertical scrolling (This seems to be an issue of driver that was designed to support scroll wheels).<br />
<br />
* '''Asda'''<br />
** HM5058 (Smart Price) Wired Mouse<br />
** Wireless Multimedia Deskset (keyboard, mouse and USB dongle) Model: HKM8016B (Note: Shown on Asda Website as HK8016B) (B)<br />
<br />
* '''ASUS'''<br />
** MS-511U (comes with Asus Vento KM-63 keyboard/mouse combo) (B)<br />
** MG-0919 (wireless)<br />
<br />
* '''Belkin'''<br />
** F8E882-OPT (B)<br />
<br />
* '''Cellink'''<br />
** OPM-602 Small wireless optical mouse<br />
<br />
* '''Cerulian Technology'''<br />
** 3 Button Mini Mobile Blue Trace Mice - Model:N96JA<br />
<br />
* '''Dell'''<br />
** M-UVDEL1 (B)<br />
** MOC5UO (100&nbsp;mA)<br />
** M056U0A (B)<br />
** DZL-MS111-L (B) (100&nbsp;mA)<br />
** MS-111P (100&nbsp;mA)<br />
** Bluetooth Wireless Keyboard and Mouse Bundle (B), Bluetooth USB dongle C-UV35 (Rated 500&nbsp;mA, but it works great), Keyboard Y-RAQ-DEL2, Mouse M-RBB-DEL4<br />
<br />
* '''Dynex'''<br />
** DX-WMSE (100&nbsp;mA) (B)<br />
<br />
* '''Fellowes'''<br />
** 99928 USB Micro Track Ball (works without a hub, directly plugged in) (B)<br />
<br />
* '''Filand'''<br />
** OP-102i Mini Optical Mouse<br />
<br />
* '''Genius'''<br />
** GM-04003A (B)<br />
** Slimstar 8000 wireless mouse (Can be intermitent. Mouse pointer sometimes is irratic.)<br />
** Traveler 515 Laser<br />
<br />
* '''HP'''<br />
** MN-UAE96 (The basic stock HP wired mouse)(B)<br />
<br />
* '''iConcepts'''<br />
** 2.4&nbsp;GHz Wireless Keyboard and Optical Mouse Model 62550<br />
*** (saves a USB port since keyboard and mouse share one transceiver, $14.99 at Fry's Electronics)<br />
<br />
* '''Jenkins'''<br />
** Jenkins Wireless Desktop Set Blue (B)<br />
<br />
* '''Kensington'''<br />
** Kensington Expert Mouse Trackball K64325<br />
** Kensington Expert Mouse "Slimblade" K72327US<br />
<br />
* '''Labtec'''<br />
** Corded Laser Glow Mouse 1600, rated 5&nbsp;V 100&nbsp;mA (P/N 810-000819, M/N M-UAZ149, PID GT83401)<br />
<br />
* '''Lenovo'''<br />
** Wired Optical Mouse Model: MO28UOL<br />
<br />
* '''Logik'''<br />
** Wired Optical Glow Mouse Model: LGGMO10. (B)<br />
<br />
* '''Logitech'''<br />
** Anywhere MX Wireless Mouse - works fine with same unifying receiver as K400 keyboard/mousepad (quake3 is easier w/mouse than mousepad)<br />
** B105 Mouse for Laptops (OEM)<br />
** Cordless Pilot Optical Mouse M/N M-RR95 with Cordless Mouse Receiver M/N C-BA4-MSE<br />
** G5 Logitech Gaming Mouse (B)<br />
** G5v2 Logitech Gaming Mouse (B)<br />
** G500 Logitech Gaming Mouse (B)<br />
** G700 Logitech Wireless Gaming Mouse (B)<br />
** LX-700 Cordless Desktop Receiver (B)<br />
** LX 710 Wireless Mouse - works fine with receiver plugged directly into Raspberry Pi (accompanying keyboard works fine too).<br />
** M90 optical mouse<br />
** M185 Wireless Mouse (B)<br />
** M210 (part of the MK260 set) (B)<br />
** M305 Wireless Mouse<br />
** M310 Cordless Mouse<br />
** M325 Wireless Mouse<br />
** M505 USB wireless laser, model no: 910-001324 (B)<br />
** M510 Wireless Mouse (B)<br />
** M705 Marathon Mouse (Unifying receiver, no powered hub) (B)<br />
** M-BD58 Wheel Mouse (B)<br />
** M-BJ58/M-BJ69 Optical Wheel Mouse (B)<br />
** M-BJ79 (B)<br />
** M-BT96a Optical Mouse<br />
** MX320/MX400 laser mouse (B)<br />
** MX518 Optical wheel mouse (B)<br />
** Optical USB Mouse (M/N 931643-0403)<br />
** Performance Mouse MX (B)<br />
** MX Revolution (B) (Debian "Wheezy" beta 18-June-2012)<br />
** VX Nano Cordless Laser Mouse for Notebooks<br />
** Wheel Mouse (M/N BJ58)<br />
<br />
* '''Medion'''<br />
** Mini mouse Model M101-CBJ P/N 40016632 S/N 7BFSA00003445 rated 5&nbsp;V 100&nbsp;mA. Works fb on model B with Raspbian Wheezy<br />
<br />
* '''Microsoft''' <br />
** Comfort Curve Mouse 3000 for Business<br />
** Comfort Mouse 6000 (works when directly connected to Raspberry Pi (B). Does not work when connected through USB Hub (mouse pointer intermittent).<br />
** Compact optical mouse 500 V2.0 (B)<br />
** Wheel Optical Mouse (wheel and additional buttons not tested) (B)<br />
** Microsoft Intellimouse Optical Mouse<br />
** Microsoft Wireless Laser Mouse 8000<br />
** Microsoft Wireless Mobile Mouse 1000<br />
** Microsoft Wireless Mobile Mouse 3500<br />
** Microsoft Wireless Mobile Mouse 4000<br />
** Microsoft Wireless Mouse 700 v2.0<br />
** Microsoft Comfort Mouse 4500<br />
** Wireless IntelliMouse Explorer 2.0 (unifying receiver, no hub)<br />
<br />
* '''Novatech'''<br />
** [http://www.novatech.co.uk/products/peripherals/miceandtrackballs/nov-mouser.html|Novatech M1 USB Mouse - Wired](B)<br />
** [http://www.novatech.co.uk/products/peripherals/miceandtrackballs/nov-dl10.html|Novatech DL10 Wireless Mouse] (B)<br />
<br />
* '''Perixx'''<br />
** PERIMICE-210 U Red (Part No.R1J) <br />
<br />
* '''Razer'''<br />
** Boomslang Collectors Edition 2007 (B)<br />
<br />
* '''Rosewill'''<br />
** Rosewill RM-C2U<br />
<br />
* '''Saitek'''<br />
** Notebook Optical Mouse (PM46)<br />
<br />
* '''Samsung'''<br />
** Samsung model:AA-SM3PCPB USB Optical Mouse (draws 50&nbsp;mA) <br />
<br />
* '''Sun microsystems'''<br />
** Model: FID-638 , SunPN: 371-0788-01<br />
<br />
* '''Sweex'''<br />
** [http://www.sweex.com/en/assortiment/input/optical-mice/MI015/ MI015]<br />
<br />
* '''Swiftpoint'''<br />
** [http://http://www.americas.futuremouse.com/] Swiftpoint Mini Wireless Optical Mouse. Does not require any special drivers. Haven't confirmed if charging the mouse requires a powered USB hub or not.<br />
<br />
* '''Targus'''<br />
** AKM02UK (Associated keyboard not checked)<br />
** AMU2701EUK (B)<br />
<br />
* '''Technika'''<br />
** TKOPTM2 (B)<br />
**TKD-211<br />
**TKNM110<br />
<br />
* '''Tesco'''<br />
** Wired optical mouse M211 (B)<br />
<br />
*'''The Pi Hut'''<br />
** USB Mouse for Raspberry Pi (from [http://thepihut.com/products/usb-mouse-for-the-raspberry-pi The Pi Hut's Raspberry Pi Store])<br />
** Super Slim Keyboard & Mouse Set (from [http://thepihut.com/products/usb-keyboard-mouse-bundle-for-the-raspberry-pi The Pi Hut's Raspberry Pi Store])<br />
<br />
* '''Trust'''<br />
** Model 15313 - large, 5-button wirless mouse<br />
** Model 15349 - small, wireless notebook mouse - wireless dongle turns mouse off when "parked" in its base<br />
** Trust Nanou Wireless Micro Mouse http://trust.com/products/product.aspx?artnr=17087<br />
<br />
* '''Verbatiam'''<br />
**Mini Nano Optical Mouse 97470 (wireless on non-powered three USB dongle hub) (B)<br />
<br />
* '''Xenta'''<br />
** MOW0810 (B)<br />
** Wired Optical Mouse (from [http://thepihut.com/products/usb-mouse-for-the-raspberry-pi The Pi Hut's Raspberry Pi Store])<br />
<br />
* '''Generic'''<br />
** Generic 2.4&nbsp;GHz Wireless Mouse (ID 040b:2013 Weltrend Semiconductor) (B)<br />
<br />
===Problem USB Mouse Devices===<br />
The following is a list of specific mouse devices that have problems working with the Raspberry Pi<br />
* '''A4Tech'''<br />
** Model G7-630 Wireless Mouse, 20&nbsp;mA. Part of wireless keyboard/mouse bundle GL-6630 (GL-6 + G7-630 + RN-10B) - suffers from USB flakeyness. Even on a powered hub. No problems on other computers I have tested it with.<br />
* '''HP'''<br />
** HP Retractable Mobile Mouse (Optical) HP Product Number XP472AA - errors / boot loop RASPBMC (B)removed mouse, started with no further errors. <br />
<br />
* '''Logik'''<br />
** Logik IMF Blue Trace Wired USB mouse (Model LMWBLU11) - disconnects from the USB port every 20 seconds when using the Raspian distro. Always reconnects to the USB port successfully (B)<br />
<br />
* '''Logitech'''<br />
** Logitech G400 Gaming Mouse - 100% CPU load and laggy mouse cursor when the mouse is moved. MX518 works fine on the same setup, so I suspect it's a polling rate issue. [http://tech2.in.com/reviews/mice/logitech-g400-is-it-a-worthy-successor/231012 this] says the mouse is 1000&nbsp;Hz out of the box, whereas the 518 is only 125&nbsp;Hz. Solution found: add usbhid.mousepoll=8 to the kernel commandline.<br />
<br />
* '''Microsoft'''<br />
** Microsoft Touch Mouse - Does not see right clicks, Only left.<br />
** Microsoft Sidewinder X8 - Uses far too much power, if it works then only for a short time!.<br />
<br />
* '''Razer'''<br />
** Naga Wired USB mouse - the mouse seems to present itself as a keyboard because the numpad on the left-hand side of the device works, but the cursor doesn't move.<br />
<br />
* '''Roccat'''<br />
** Kone[+] Wired USB mouse - Nothing happens when moving the mouse, haven't looked further into the issue (B)<br />
<br />
* '''Trust'''<br />
** Optical USB Mouse MI-2250 - Nothing happens when moving the mouse (B)<br />
<br />
* '''Xenta'''<br />
** Multimedia Wireless Keyboard and Mouse Set (Mouse Model: HM-3301) (B) - frequent lost connection giving stuttering mouse cursor indicating USB current not enough for dongle<br />
<br />
== USB Real Time Clocks ==<br />
*Cymbet<br />
** Cymbet CBC-EVAL-06 USB Real Time Clock (FT2232 to SPI to RV-2123)<br />
Device information at http://www.cymbet.com/pdfs/DS-72-22.pdf<br />
Code to access the RTC from Linux: https://github.com/owendelong/Cymbet-RTC<br />
Does not require a powered hub.<br />
<br />
== USB Wi-Fi Adapters ==<br />
<br />
See also: http://www.element14.com/community/docs/DOC-44703/l/raspberry-pi-wifi-adapter-testing<br />
<br />
There is a howto on installing the TL-WN722N adapter [http://elinux.org/RPi_Peripherals#Wireless:_TP-Link_TL-WN722N_USB_wireless_adapter_.28Debian_6.29 here], which also acts as a guide for installing others too.<br />
<br />
===Working USB Wi-Fi Adapters===<br />
<br />
These adapters are known to work on the Raspberry Pi. This list is not exhaustive, other adapters may well work, but it has not yet been tried.<br />
<br />
'''Note:''' A Wi-Fi adapter will probably need more power than the Raspberry Pi USB port can provide, especially if<br />
there is a large distance from the Wi-Fi adapter to the Wi-Fi Access Point. Therefore, you may need to plug the Wi-Fi adapter into a powered USB hub.<br />
<br />
* '''3COM'''<br />
** 3CRUSB10075: ZyDAS zd1211rw chipset (!)<br />
<br />
* '''7DayShop'''<br />
** W-3S01BLK, W-3S01BLKTWIN: Unbranded product available from 7DayShop, in a single or twin pack. [http://www.7dayshop.com/catalog/product_info.php?cPath=777_9&products_id=112046], [http://www.7dayshop.com/catalog/product_info.php?&products_id=112527]. Tested on Debian Wheezy, with the dongle attached directly to the Raspberry Pi along with the wireless keyboard receiver. Shows up as a Ralink RT5370 device, and no drivers or additional software downloads required. Created wpa.conf, edited 'interfaces' file and restarted the networking. The manufacturer portion of the MAC address (7cdd90) is assigned to "Shenzhen Ogemray Technology Co., Ltd."<br />
** It works without additional software connected directly to a Rev 2 Raspberry Pi, but it stops working after a period of time (3 to 4 hours) with a fully updated Wheezy and all the 'USB workarounds' [http://elinux.org/Rpi_USB_check-list] in place. <br />
<br />
* '''Alfa'''<br />
** AWUS036NEH: Tested on Debian Squeeze (with Ralink firmware package)<br />
** AWUS036NH: Tested on Arch Linux ARM using the rt2800usb module.<br />
** AWUS036NH: Tested on Debian Wheezy (with Ralink firmware package). Tested on Raspbian too (drivers from aircrack-ng).<br />
** AWUS036H (500&nbsp;mW version): Tested on Raspbian (drivers from aircrack-ng).<br />
** AWUS036H (1&nbsp;W version): Tested on Raspbian (drivers from aircrack-ng). Needs USB powered HUB or Rev2 of the board / polyfuse bypass.<br />
** AWUS036NHA: Tested on Raspbian (drivers from aircrack-ng). Works fine if connected after boot, otherwise Raspberry Pi won't boot up.<br />
<br />
* '''AirLink101''' [[File:Airlink101.jpg|thumb|right|link=http://www.savagehomeautomation.com/raspi-airlink101|100px|Airlink 101 Wireless N 150 Ultra Mini-USB Adapter]]<br />
** AWLL5088: Tested on Debian Wheezy. This adapter is based on the OEM Edimax EW-7811Un. For automatic installation, See MrEngmanns script listed below under the Edimax device.<br />
** AWLL5099: Tested on Raspian Wheezy. [http://www.savagehomeautomation.com/raspi-airlink101 Step-by-step installation and configuration instructions] with screenshots can be found [http://www.savagehomeautomation.com/raspi-airlink101 here]. This adapter is based on the Realtek RTL8188CUS chipset. The rtl8192cu kernel driver is loaded automatically in the latest Raspian distribution.<br />
** [http://www.airlink101.com/products/awll6075.php AWLL6075]: Tested on Raspian Wheezy 16-Dec-2012 build and distro upgrade as of 09-Jan-2013. lsusb reports: 0bda:8172 Realtek Semiconductor Corp. RTL8191SU 802.11n WLAN Adapter. Driver installed is r8712u. Powers OK from Model B Pi (Rev 000f) USB port (1200mA supply tested). Dongle does get hot under use when directly connected to USB port (slightly reduced when USB extender cable used).<br />
<br />
* '''Asus'''<br />
** [http://www.element14.com/community/docs/DOC-44703 USB-N10] USB ID 0b05:1786, r8712u staging driver, included on Fedora Remix & Arch, must [http://www.element14.com/community/servlet/JiveServlet/download/44948-8-97488/r8712u_ko.zip download] for Debian and install firmware - Realtek from non-free Squeeze repository (B) (not needed with latest Raspbian “Wheezy” 2012-07-15: this Asus works N10 out of the box) Does not support nl80211 APIS, so hostapd won't work.<br />
** [http://www.element14.com/community/docs/DOC-44703 USB-N13] USB ID 0b05:17ab, works with [http://learn.adafruit.com/adafruit-raspberry-pi-educational-linux-distro/occidentalis-v0-dot-1 Adafruit Occidentalis v0.1 image] as it includes kernel [http://www.element14.com/community/message/57635#57660 with 8192u driver built-in] (B)<br />
** WL-167G v1 USB ID 0b05:1706, Ralink RT2571 working out-of-the-box on Debian image from 2012-04-19. Requires powered hub, otherwise it is detected by OS, but it will not function.<br />
** WL-167G v3 USB ID 0b05:1791, working out-of-the-box on Linux raspberrypi 3.2.27+ #160 PREEMPT Mon Sep 17. Does not require powered hub.<br />
<br />
* '''AusPi Technologies'''<br />
** AusPi Wireless Adapter [Realtek RTL8188S]. Works without a powered HUB. Tested on OpenELEC (works OOB), RaspBMC (works OOB), XBian (works OOB) and 2012-08-08 Raspbian Wheezy (works OOB). Distributed in Australia by [http://www.buyraspberrypi.com.au/raspberry-pi-802-11bgn-usb-wireless-dongle/ Buy Raspberry Pi Australia].<br />
<br />
* '''Belkin'''<br />
** Belkin Components F5D7050 Wireless G Adapter v3000 [Ralink RT2571W]. On Debian requires the firmware-ralink package from the non-free repository. The usbcore module needs to be added to /etc/modules [http://www.penguintutor.com/blog/viewblog.php?blog=6281 install instructions].<br />
** Belkin Components F5D8053 ver.6001 Wireless N Adapter [Realtek RTL8188SU]. Tested on OpenELEC (works OOB), RaspBMC (works OOB), Raspian - 2012-07-15-Wheezy-raspbian '''Powered hub required!'''<br />
** Belkin Components F5D8053 ver.6001 Wireless N Adapter [Realtek RTL8188SU]. Works on RaspBMC OOB (with NetworkManager plugin). Works WITHOUT powered hub on 5&nbsp;V 800&nbsp;mA power with 6 overvolt (nothing else connected to USB)<br />
** Belkin Components F7D1101 v1 Basic Wireless Adapter [Realtek RTL8188SU] USB ID 050d:945a, r8712u staging driver, included on Fedora Remix & Arch, must [http://www.element14.com/community/servlet/JiveServlet/download/44948-8-97488/r8712u_ko.zip download] for Debian and install firmware - Realtek from non-free Squeeze repository (B). Verified working with 2012-12-16-wheezy-raspbian right out of the box.<br />
**Belkin Components F6D4050 V1 [Realtek RT3070] USB ID: 050d:935a Driver: RT3572STA(recommended),RT2800USB,RT2870STA. Tested under Arch using [https://wiki.archlinux.org/index.php/Setting_Up_Belkin_F6D4050_Wireless_USB_Dongles this] guide.<br />
**Belkin Components F6D4050 V1/V2 [Realtek RT3070] USB ID: 050d:935a / 935b Driver: RT3572STA. Tested with Raspbian - See [http://iggy82.blogspot.co.uk/2012/08/wireless-n-raspberry-pi-belkin-f6d4050.html installation instructions] - Powered hub not required!<br />
** Belkin Components F7D2102 "N300" Micro Wireless USB adapter. Tested with Occidentalis 0.1. Tested and working on Rasbian Wheezy (and RaspBMC), driver RTL8192CU, no powered hub needed (dongle directly attached to the onboard ports)<br />
** Belkin Components F9L1001v1 "N150" Wireless USB Adapter. Tested and working on Rasbian Wheezy WITHOUT powered hub. <br />
** Belkin Surf Micro WLAN USB-Adapter (Raspbian Wheezy, unpowered hub, "N150")<br />
<br />
* '''BlueProton'''<br />
** [http://www.element14.com/community/docs/DOC-44703 BT3] USB ID: 0bda:8187; tested on Debian, Fedora & Arch; rtl8187 driver (B)<br />
<br />
* '''Buffalo'''<br />
** USB ID: 0411:01A2 WLI-UC-GNM - Tested on Raspbmc; rt2800usb driver <br />
** USB ID: WLI-UC-G300N - Works on Raspbmc out of the box. Tested after a factory reset of the Raspbmc.<br />
<br />
* '''Comfast'''<br />
** WU710N: chipset RTL8188CUS. The rtl8192cu kernel driver is loaded automatically in the latest Raspian distribution. <br />
<br />
* '''Conceptronic'''<br />
** C300RU. Works out of the box in Raspbian. Causes reboot when plugging on a live Rev. 2 Raspberry Pi<br />
<br />
* '''Conrad'''<br />
** WLAN Stick N150 mini. Works out of the box in OpenELEC, [http://www.t3node.com/blog/sempre-wireless-usb-stick-wu300-2-on-raspberry-pi/ requires firmware - Realtek and r8712u kernel module on Debian].<br />
** WLAN Stick N150 Nano [Realtek RTL8188CUS]. Requires a powered USB hub. See Micronet SP907NS for installation instructions and script.<br />
<br />
* '''DealExtreme'''<br />
** ISG-1507N Mini USB 2.4GHz 150Mbps 802.11b/g/n WiFi. Has the ralink 5370 chipset, works directly plugged into the Raspberry Pi rev.1 under OpenELEC. Note: Driver (rt2800usb) only permits B/G operation and throughput is low (10Mbit).<br />
<br />
* '''DELL'''<br />
** Wireless 1450 [Intersil ISL3887]. Works out of the box, but it requires a powered hub (the Raspberry Pi boots with this dongle plugged in, recognizes and configures it, works for some time, but then it crashes randomly under heavy traffic. A powered hub seems to fix the issue).<br />
<br />
* '''DIGICOM'''<br />
** USBWAVE54 [chipset Zydas ZD1211] . [[http://www.digicom.it/digisit/prodotti.nsf/itprodottiidx/UsbWave54]] Works out of the box in OpenELEC. With Raspbian or Debian squeezy/Wheezy works with zd1211-firmware . <br />
** USBWAVE300C [chipset Ralink 2870] . [[http://www.digicom.it/digisit/prodotti.nsf/itprodottiidx/UsbWave300c]] Works out of the box in OpenELEC. With Raspbian or Debian squeezy/Wheezy works with firmware-ralink . <br />
<br />
* '''D-Link'''<br />
** AirPlus G DWL-G122 (rev. E). USB ID 07d1:3c0f, Ralink RT2870. On Debian requires the <code>firmware-ralink</code> package from the <code>Squeeze-firmware</code> non-free repository. (However I experience total crashes on Raspbian 2012-07-15 after a few minutes of load on the WLAN. Will have to investigate via serial console.)<br />
** AirPlus G DWL-G122 (rev. C). USB ID 07d1:3c03, Ralink RT2571. Working out-of-the-box on Arch image from 2012-04-29.<br />
** AirPlus G DWL-G122 (rev. B1). USB ID 2001:3c00, Ralink RT2571. Working out-of-the-box on Arch image from 2012-06-13.<br />
** DWA-110 (Version A1). Requires the ralink package from the non-free repository on Debian.<br />
** DWA-121 (Version A1). Wireless N 150 Pico. Works out-of-the-box with Raspian Wheezy (2012-09-18) and Raspbmc (2012-11-06) using Network-Manager addon (see Program - Addons)<br />
** DWA-123 (Version A1). USB ID 2001:3c17, Ralink RT2800. Working out-of-the-box on Arch image from 2012-04-29. (working without UBS Hub - not yet sure if it achieves full speed though.)<br />
** DWA-131 USB ID 07d1:3303,Realtek RTL8192SU, 802.11n Wireless N Nano. Works out of the box on Raspbian “Wheezy”. Verified with direct USB: no powered USB hub needed. Also verified when Nano used in powered USB hub. Someone had trouble configuring SSID/Passphrase in etc/network/interfaces file. But no problem & very easy to configure using wicd: wicd is a gui interface on LXDE for network configuration. Install it using command-line: <code>apt-get install wicd</code>. Once configured ith wicd to auto-run on boot, no need to turn back to LXDE. Recommended.<br />
** DWA-140 (Version B1). USB ID 07d1:3c09, Ralink RT2870. On Debian requires the <code>firmware-ralink</code> package from the <code>Squeeze-firmware</code> non-free repository.<br />
** DWA-140 (Version B2). USB ID 07d1:3c0a, Ralink RT3072. Workaround for faulty firmware binary: Place file rt2870.bin from [https://launchpad.net/ubuntu/oneiric/+source/linux-firmware/1.53/+files/linux-firmware_1.53.tar.gz linux-firmware_1.53.tar.gz] in /lib/firmware. [https://bugs.launchpad.net/ubuntu/+source/linux-firmware/+bug/770232 Explanation].<br />
** DWA-160 (Version B1). USB ID 07d1:3c11, Ralink RT2870. On Debian requires the <code>firmware-ralink</code> package from the <code>Squeeze-firmware</code> non-free repository.<br />
** DWA-160 (Version A2). USB ID 07d1:3a09, Atheros AR9170. (NOTE: I can only get it to work through powered USB hub) requires carl9170-fw firmware [http://http://aur.archlinux.org/packages.php/packages.php?ID=44102]<br />
** WUA-1340 (Version A1). Works with Raspbian Wheezy after installing the firmware-ralink package from the non-free repository on Debian.<br />
<br />
* '''Edimax''' [[File:Edimax-ew-7811un.jpg|thumb|right|link=http://www.savagehomeautomation.com/raspi-edimax-ew-7811un|100px|Edimax EW-7811Un 150 Mbps Wireless 11n Nano Size USB Adapter]]<br />
** [http://www.edimax.co.uk/en/produce_detail.php?pd_id=328&pl1_id=1&pl2_id=44 EW-7811Un] USB ID 7392:7811, RTL8192CU, driver blob [http://www.electrictea.co.uk/rpi/8192cu.tar.gz download] via [http://www.element14.com/community/docs/DOC-44703 Element14], works with WPA2-AES-CCMP ([http://www.ctrl-alt-del.cc/2012/05/raspberry-pi-meets-edimax-ew-7811un-wireless-ada.html howto]) (B) - [http://dl.dropbox.com/u/80256631/8192cu-latest.tar.gz Alternative driver download link that works with Raspian]. <b>Note:</b> With current Raspbian (2012-09-18-Wheezy) it is recognized immediately, the default module works fine; the configuration is easy using wireless-essid and wireless-key in /etc/network/interfaces.<br />
*** The EW-7811Un can be powered directly from the Raspberry Pi if the Raspberry Pi is powered using a well regulated power supply.<br />
*** EW-7811Un [http://www.savagehomeautomation.com/raspi-edimax-ew-7811un step-by-step installation and configuration instructions] for Debian & Raspian with screenshots can be found here: [http://www.savagehomeautomation.com/raspi-edimax-ew-7811un here] <br />
*** A script-based installation for the [http://www.edimax.co.uk/en/produce_detail.php?pd_id=328&pl1_id=1&pl2_id=44 EW-7811Un] by MrEngman can be found [http://www.raspberrypi.org/phpBB3/viewtopic.php?f=26&t=6256&hilit=edimax on the Raspberry Pi forums]. Tested with Debian Squeeze and Raspbian. [http://dl.dropbox.com/u/80256631/install-rtl8188cus.txt An installation guide can be found here.]<br />
*** Instructions for getting the [http://www.edimax.co.uk/en/produce_detail.php?pd_id=328&pl1_id=1&pl2_id=44 EW-7811Un] working in Raspbmc (tested RC3) can be found [http://forum.stmlabs.com/showthread.php?tid=780 here].<br />
*** Simple step-by-step instructions for [http://www.edimax.co.uk/en/produce_detail.php?pd_id=328&pl1_id=1&pl2_id=44 EW-7811Un] which uses the RTL8192 chipset [[RPi_edimax_EW-7811Un]](B)<br />
** [http://www.edimax.com/en/produce_detail.php?pd_id=8&pl1_id=1&pl2_id=44 EW-7318USg] USB ID 148f:2573, rt73usb. RT2573 chipset. Works with powered usb-hub or shorted polyfuses.<br />
** [http://www.edimax.co.uk/en/produce_detail.php?pd_id=261&pl1_id=1&pl2_id=44 EW-7711UAn], Ralink RT2870, works perfectly on Arch with a powered hub (not tested without yet). Simply required wireless_tools and wpa_supplicant, the drivers/firmware are included in kernel 3.0. I followed the Arch [https://wiki.archlinux.org/index.php/Wireless_Setup Wireless Setup] instructions.<br />
<br />
* '''edup'''<br />
** [[http://www2.buyincoins.com/details/usb-150m-wifi-wireless-lan-network-card-adapter-antenna-product-1916.html Edup 150MBPS Wi-Fi adapter]] USB ID: 148f:5370 Ralink Technology, Corp. RT5370 Wireless Adapter. Driver is the RT2800USB module, I had to install the firmware as rt2870.bin in /lib/firmware.([http://raspberry-pi-notes.blogspot.com/2012/05/rt5370-cheap-micro-usb-wireless-dongle.html requires firmware-ralink from Wheezy]) (B)<br />
** [http://dx.com/p/ultra-mini-nano-usb-2-0-802-11n-150mbps-wifi-wlan-wireless-network-adapter-48166?item=1&Utm_rid=24958662&Utm_source=affiliate Ultra-Mini Nano USB 2.0 802.11n 150&nbsp;Mbit/s Wi-Fi/WLAN Wireless Network Adapter] USB ID: ID 0bda:8176 Works stable when using VLC for internet radio receiver. Works stable 24/7 on two of my Raspberries used as webserver. Use method shown [http://www.raspberrypi.org/phpBB3/viewtopic.php?t=7471&p=91736 here] for Debian. Seems to be the same as EW-7811Un using the RTL8188CUS chipset.<br />
<br />
** [http://www.szedup.com/show.aspx?id=1681 edup nano EP-N8508] Use method shown [http://www.raspberrypi.org/phpBB3/viewtopic.php?t=7471&p=91736 here] for Debian. Requires powered USB hub for adequate power. When directly powered by Raspberry Pi, it fails after a few minutes. (B) Unusable with analog audio because when data is being send or recieved the audio get disorted. Use script from [http://dl.dropbox.com/u/80256631/install-wheezy-beta-rtl8188cus-20120619.sh here] for Wheezy.<br />
<br />
* '''Eminent'''<br />
** EM4575 - rt2800usb driver.<br />
<br />
* '''EnGenius'''<br />
** EUB9603 EXT - Realtek r8712u driver <br />
<br />
* '''Gigabyte'''<br />
** Gigabyte GN-WB32L 802.11n USB WLAN Card. Works with the rt2800usb driver.<br />
<br />
* '''GMYLE'''<br />
** Wireless 11n USB Adapter. Uses RTL8188CUS chipset - cheap on eBay. Installs and works using the install-rtl8188cus-latest.sh script.<br />
<br />
* '''IOGear'''<br />
** [http://www.element14.com/community/docs/DOC-44703 GWU625] USB ID 0bda:8172, r8712u staging driver, included on Fedora Remix & Arch, must [http://www.element14.com/community/servlet/JiveServlet/download/44948-8-97488/r8712u_ko.zip download] for Debian Squeeze and install firmware - Realtek from non-free Squeeze repository. No need to download firmware when using Debian Wheezy (B)<br />
<br />
* '''ISY'''<br />
** USB Wireless Micro Adapter IWL 2000, tested on Raspbian; follow [http://daniel-lnx.blogspot.nl/2013/01/raspberry-pi-and-isy-usb-wireless-micro.html these] instructions.<br />
<br />
* '''Linksys'''<br />
** Linksys (Cisco) WUSB100 ver.2 1737:0078, tested on Raspbian; follow [http://www.brucalipto.org/linux/the-raspberry-diary-wusb100-wireless-n/ Brucalipto.org] instructions; not stress tested, but it works without issues for light network load.<br />
** Linksys (Cisco) WUSB600N, test on Raspbian, details [http://elibtronic.ca/content/20120731/raspberry-pi-part-1-wifi-support here]<br />
** Linksys WUSB54GC (manufactured 07/2008) No issues! needs powered hub on version 1.0 boards.<br />
<br />
* '''LogiLink'''<br />
** Wireless LAN USB 2.0 Nano Adapter 802.11n LogiLink [http://www.logilink.eu/showproduct/WL0084B.htm] is working even USB powered.<br />
<br />
* '''Lutec'''<br />
** Lutec WLA-54L (old version with ZD1211b chipset) is working even USB powered.<br />
<br />
* '''Micronet'''<br />
** Micronet SP907NS, 11N Wireless LAN USB Adapter (uses Realtek RTL8188CUS) works plugged directly into Raspberry Pi USB (B) [http://dl.dropbox.com/u/80256631/install-rtl8188cus.txt Debian installation instructions] IMPORTANT: read the instructions first to avoid problems, and [http://dl.dropbox.com/u/80256631/install-rtl8188cus-latest.sh Auto-install script]. The script has been used to install other adapters using the RTL8188CUS chip. [http://dl.dropbox.com/u/80256631/8192cu-latest.tar.gz Updated driver] that handles the latest rpi-updates that kill the original driver, download for manual installation, automatically installed by the Auto-install script.<br />
<br />
* '''MSI'''<br />
** 0db0:6861 MSI-6861 802.11g Wi-Fi adapter (US54G): works with external powered USB hub, requires firmware from [http://sourceforge.net/projects/zd1211/files/zd1211-firmware/ here], power management must be disabled: <code>iwconfig wlan0 power off</code><br />
<br />
* '''Mvix'''<br />
** Mvix Nubbin (MS-811N): works out of the box on Raspbian "Wheezy" and does not need a powered USB hub.<br />
<br />
* '''Netgear''' <br />
** N150: Reported as WNA1100 device, uses the Atheros ar9271 chipset. On Debian, requires the <code>firmware-atheros</code> package from the <code>Squeeze-backports</code> non-free repository (!)<br />
** N150: Some versions reported as Realtek RTL8188CUS device. Read Micronet entry above and use RTL8188CUS script for installation. Works best plugged into powered USB hub.<br />
** WG111v1: Prism54 chipset. Needs powered hub. Follow info for Prism54 chipset on Debian wiki.<br />
** WG111v2: Realtek rtl8187 chipset. Seems to draw a lot of power; e.g. I can't power this and a USB thumb drive simultaneously.<br />
** WG111v3: Realtek RTL8187B chipset. Works straight out of the box using a powered USB hub.<br />
** WNA1000M works with Raspberry Pi Model B Board v. BS1233.However when downloading torrents, when torrent pick up speed system become unresponsive. <br />
<br />
* '''OvisLink'''<br />
** Evo-W300USB: USB ID 148f:2270 Ralink Technology RT2770. apt-get install firmware-ralink<br />
<br />
* '''Patriot Memory'''<br />
** [http://patriotmemory.com/products/detailp.jsp?prodline=6&catid=69&prodgroupid=163&id=1198&type=20 PCUSBW1150] Wireless 11N USB adapter (uses Realtek RTL8188CUS) Install using Micronet script. Works only through powered USB hub.<br />
** [http://www.patriotmemory.com/products/detailp.jsp?prodline=6&catid=69&prodgroupid=163&id=973&type=20 PCBOWAU2-N] Wireless 11N USB adapter (uses Realtek RTL8191SU chip) Installed using r8712u Kernel module<br />
<br />
* '''Ralink'''<br />
** inner 02 joggler Wi-Fi USB RT2770F USB-ID 148f:2770 (firmware-ralink required) (only got dhcp on powered hub)<br />
** [http://www.dx.com/p/24688 RT2070] USB-ID 148f:2070 firmware is already loaded into Raspbian. For Debian, the firmware must be installed ([http://wiki.debian.org/rt2870sta instructions]). Needs a powered USB hub.<br />
** RT3070 USB-ID 148f:3070 firmware is already loaded into Raspbian.<br />
** [http://www.element14.com/community/docs/DOC-44703 RT2501/RT2573] USB-ID 148f:2573 (firmware-ralink required) (B)<br />
** RT5370 USB-ID 148f:5370 ([http://raspberry-pi-notes.blogspot.com/2012/05/rt5370-cheap-micro-usb-wireless-dongle.html requires firmware-ralink from Wheezy]) [[RPi_Ralink_WLAN_devices]](B). An image of an adapter with this chip can be found [http://i.imgur.com/wRF7L.jpg here].<br />
<br />
* '''Rosewill'''<br />
** RNX-N180UBE Wireless B/G/N Adapter<br />
*** Realtek RTL8191SU chipset, USB-ID 0bda:8172<br />
*** Tested in Arch, works out of box. Powered USB hub required.<br />
*** Tested in Raspbian, used wicd to configure network settings. Powered USB hub Required.<br />
*** Tested in Raspbmc. Needs package firmware - Realtek and used wicd-curses to configure. Powered USB hub required<br />
** RNX-G1 Wireless B/G Adapter<br />
*** Realtek RTL8187 chipset, USB-ID 0bda:8187<br />
*** Tested in Arch, works out of box. USB hub required.<br />
** RNX-MiniN1 (RWLD-110001) Wireless-N 2.0 Dongle (Realtek Semiconductor Corp. RTL8188CUS 802.11n WLAN Adapter)<br />
*** Tested in Raspbian, powered from USB hub.<br />
<br />
* '''Sabrent'''<br />
** USB-A11N: Mini USB 2.0 Wireless-N WiFi Network Adapter: USB ID 0bda:8176, works automatically in Raspbian using rtl8192cu driver along with Logitech BT mini-receiver (keyboard/mousepad) without external hub using 5.25V 1 A psu (4.99V T1/T2) on rev 2.0 (B)<br />
<br />
* '''Sagem'''<br />
** Sagem Wireless USB stick XG-760N: USB ID 079b:0062, Module is not shipped in Debian image, but it can be "sudo apt-get install zd1211-firmware"<br />
<br />
* '''Sempre'''<br />
** Sempre Wireless USB stick WU300-2: USB ID 0bda:8172, Realtek r8712u driver + firmware-realtek package. Module is shipped in Raspbian image. If you need to build it for other distros, read this: http://www.t3node.com/blog/sempre-wireless-usb-stick-wu300-2-on-raspberry-pi/<br />
<br />
* '''Sitecom'''<br />
** Sitecom Wi-Fi USB Adapter N300: USB ID 0a5c:5800, Realtek r8712u driver + firmware Realtek. Module available in shipped Raspbian image. '''NOTE:''' although this dongle will also work without powered hub, if there is a voltage problem (either on the Raspberry or on the hub, but verified only on the hub so far) this wifi dongle will receive signal perfectly (RX), but not be capable of sending anything (TX) and the MAC address will be permanently set to FF:FF:FF:FF:FF:FF (this is indicative that there is not enough power) [http://www.raspberrypi.org/phpBB3/viewtopic.php?f=28&t=24247]<br />
<br />
* '''SL'''<br />
** SL-1507N: USB 802.11n 150M Wi-Fi Wireless LAN Network Card Adapter SL-1507N Black<br />
*** I bought this on on eBay for $4.19 (free shipping) @ http://www.ebay.com/itm/270853614804?ssPageName=STRK:MEWNX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1497.l2649#ht_4379wt_1199<br />
*** It worked out of the box on Raspbmc RC4, with the network manager add-on; seems to be an rt2800usb<br />
*** dmesg output "usbcore: registered new interface driver rt2800usb"<br />
<br />
* '''SMC'''<br />
** SMCWUSBS-N: Hardware detected as rt2800, but it is missing firmware; "sudo apt-get install firmware-ralink" fixed it<br />
** SMCWUSB-G: Gives "couldn't load firmware" error. "sudo apt-get install zd1211-firmware" fixes it.<br />
<br />
* '''Sony'''<br />
** Sony UWA-BR100 802.11abgn Wireless Adapter [Atheros AR7010+AR9280] (Vendor ID: 0411, Product ID: 017f) - Tested with Raspbian. Needs package firmware-atheros.(B)<br />
<br />
* '''Tenda''' <br />
** USB 11n adapter on a G network: Ralink 2870/3070 driver (!)<br />
** Tenda W311MI Wireless N Pico USB Adapter (identified as Ralink RT5370 Wireless Adapter; USB-ID: 148f:5370) - Works out-of-the-box for Raspian 2012/09/18 or later. An earlier version gave me problems.<br />
** Tenda W311U Mini 11N Wireless USB Adapter (USB-ID 148f:3070): Ralink 2870/3070 driver; needs powered hub. [http://blog.modmypi.com/2012/06/installing-tenda-w311u-mini-wireless.html Debian installation instructions]<br />
** Tenda W311U+ Wireless USB Adapter - Tested with Raspbian.<br />
<br />
*'''The Pi Hut'''<br />
** USB 802.11n Wi-Fi adapter (from [http://thepihut.com/products/usb-wifi-adapter-for-the-raspberry-pi The Pi Hut's Raspberry Pi Store])<br />
<br />
* '''TP-Link'''<br />
** TL-WN422G v2 (ath9k_htc) Works OOTB in Debian Wheezy Beta. Runs without powered Hub when plugged into running Raspberry Pi, but the Raspberry Pi won't boot while the stick is plugged in.<br />
** TL-WN721N (ath9k_htc device with htc_9271.fw file from http://linuxwireless.org/download/htc_fw/1.3/htc_9271.fw); needs powered USB Hub (B) | works OOTB with Wheezy Raspbian (2012-08-16) connected directly to raspberry pi (B) and AP functionality tested with hostapd.<br />
** TL-WN722N (ath9k_htc device with htc_9271.fw file from http://linuxwireless.org/download/htc_fw/1.3/htc_9271.fw); needs powered USB Hub (B)<br />
** TL-WN723N (RTL8188SU); works OOTB with Raspbian 2012-09-17, (B) stable with 1&nbsp;A PSU and without powered USB hub on r2.0.<br />
** TL-WN725N Works out of the box on Raspbian 2012-12-16 without a powered USB hub.<br />
** TL-WN821N v3 (ath9k_htc, htc_7010.fw); works out of the box on ArchLinuxARM, Wheezy and on OpenElec (>r11211), Problems with prior OpenElec; needs powered USB Hub (B). This chipset is also compatible with hostapd (wireless AP software)<br />
** TL-WN823N Works out of box on Raspian using powered USB Hub<br />
<br />
* '''Trendnet'''<br />
** [http://www.wikidevi.com/wiki/TRENDnet_TEW-648UBM TEW-648UBM] USB ID: 20f4:648b, works OOTB with [http://learn.adafruit.com/adafruit-raspberry-pi-educational-linux-distro/ Adafruit Occidentials Raspbian Wheezy variant] as it includes kernel with [http://www.wikidevi.com/wiki/Special:Ask?title=Special%3AAsk&q=%5B%5BChip1+model%3A%3ARTL8188CUS%5D%5D&po=%3FInterface%0D%0A%3FFCC+ID%0D%0A%3FVendor+ID%0D%0A%3FDevice+ID%0D%0A%3FChip1+model%0D%0A%3FSupported+802dot11+protocols%0D%0A%3FMIMO+status%0D%0A%3FOUI%0D%0A&sort_num=&order_num=ASC&eq=yes&p%5Bformat%5D=broadtable&p%5Blimit%5D=500&p%5Bsort%5D=&p%5Boffset%5D=&p%5Bheaders%5D=show&p%5Bmainlabel%5D=&p%5Blink%5D=all&p%5Bsearchlabel%5D=&p%5Bintro%5D=&p%5Boutro%5D=&p%5Bdefault%5D=&p%5Bclass%5D=sortable+wikitable+smwtable&eq=yes RTL8188CUS driver built-in] (B)<br />
** [http://www.wikidevi.com/wiki/TRENDnet_TEW-649UB TEW-649UB] Works with OpenElec 3.0, chipset Realtek RTL8191SU<br />
<br />
* '''Widemac'''<br />
** RT5370 Wireless Adapter from [http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/180887771838?ssPageName=STRK:MEWNX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1497.l2649 Ebay] runs without powered hub. Follow these [http://elinux.org/RPi_Ralink_WLAN_devices instructions], but go to [http://ftp.de.debian.org/debian/pool/non-free/f/firmware-nonfree/ ftp.de.debian.org/debian/pool/non-free/f/firmware-nonfree/] and pick the latest firmware-ralink_0.xx_all.deb<br />
<br />
* '''ZyXEL'''<br />
** [http://www.element14.com/community/message/50015#50015/l/re-installing-kernel-headers-on-the-pi NWD2105] USB ID: 0586:341e, RT3070 chipset, rt2800usb driver (B)<br />
** [http://www.zyxel.com/products_services/g_202.shtml G-202] model 0586:3410 ZyXEL Communications Corp. ZyAIR G-202 802.11bg using zd1211rw kernel module and zd1211-firmware package<br />
<br />
===Problem USB Wi-Fi Adapters===<br />
<br />
These adapters were tested and found to have issues the Raspberry Pi. Note [http://www.raspberrypi.org/phpBB3/viewtopic.php?f=28&t=6928] as a possible solution/explanation for errors while running LXDE.<br />
<br />
* '''Alfa'''<br />
** AWUS036NHA (Vendor ID: 0cf3, Product ID: 9271) - Tested with Raspbian. Works fine if connected after boot. Kills boot process if previously attached. [http://www.raspberrypi.org/phpBB3/viewtopic.php?f=28&t=16809&p=169469#p169469 Details here.]<br />
<br />
* '''EDIMAX'''<br />
** EW-7811Un (Vendor ID: 7397, Product ID: 7811) - Reports as containing the Realtek RTL8188CUS chipset listed below, no lockup or kernal oops under Wheezy, but dmesg reports constant timeouts trying to initialize the module. This appears to be resolved on 2012-09-18-Wheezy-raspbian and newer versions.<br />
<br />
* '''Linksys'''<br />
** WUSB300N (Vendor ID: 13B1, Product ID: 0029) - Tested with Raspbian, OpenELEC, among others. No Linux chipset support for Marvell 88W8362 at all.<br />
<br />
* '''LogiLink'''<br />
** WL0085 tested under Debian (Squeeze, Wheezy, Raspbian); no stable connection can be established. This gets even worse when X is running.<br />
<br />
* '''MicroNEXT'''<br />
** MN-WD152B (Debian image) modprobe hangs when plugged in, lsusb hangs. udevd errors in the logs. [http://www.element14.com/community/thread/17632] [http://www.raspberrypi.org/phpBB3/viewtopic.php?t=6737]<br />
*** Possible fix: try the new [http://learn.adafruit.com/adafruit-raspberry-pi-educational-linux-distro/occidentalis-v0-dot-1 Adafruit Occidentalis v0.1] image (based on Raspbian Wheezy) as it includes the needed 8192cu driver builtin to the kernel<br />
<br />
* '''Netgear'''<br />
** WNDA3100v2 tested with Debian (Wheezy); no driver for broadcom chipset (see [http://www.wikidevi.com/wiki/Netgear_WNDA3100v2 http://www.wikidevi.com/wiki/Netgear_WNDA3100v2]).<br />
<br />
* '''Realtek'''<br />
** RTL8188CUS USB-ID 0bda:8176, kernel oops in dmesg and freeze when pulled from USB. (B)<br />
<br />
* '''Trendnet'''<br />
** [http://www.element14.com/community/docs/DOC-44703 TEW-424UB] USB ID: 0bda:8189; tested on Debian, Fedora & Arch; rtl8187 driver; errors with LXDE running (B)<br />
<br />
* '''TP-Link'''<br />
** [http://www.element14.com/community/docs/DOC-44703 TL-WN821N] USB ID: 0cf3:7015; tested on Debian; requires [http://linuxwireless.org/download/htc_fw/1.3/htc_7010.fw htc_7010.fw] firmware; ath9k_htc driver; errors with LXDE running (B)<br />
** TL-WN723N USB ID: 0bda:8176; tested on Arch without a powered hub; it seems to draw too much current.<br />
** TL-WDN3200 USB ID: 148f:5572, no native driver available under Raspbian, OpenELEC, raspbmc (neither under x86 Linux) for the ralink 5572 chipset. Might work if driver is compiled from [http://www.ralinktech.com/en/04_support/support.php?sn=501 source].<br />
<br />
== USB Bluetooth adapters ==<br />
===Working Bluetooth adapters===<br />
* Asus USBIA-EG (paired with Asus Blutooth Keyboard/Media Center Remote<br />
** Verified works error-free in Multiple Distros (Openelec, Raspbian, RaspBMC, Xbian) Latest builds eliminate text echo problems.<br />
* Cambridge Silicon Radio, Ltd Bluetooth Dongle (HCI mode) - (USB ID 0a12:0001)<br />
** Example of above is; TOPDIGI UA01 Bluetooth USB Dongle Plug and Play (install bluez package from std repos)<br />
** Tesco own brand 'Technika' Nano Bluetooth Adapter has the Cambridge Silicon Radio chipset and works fine, cost £5.97 at time of posting.<br />
** Hama USB Bluetooth 3.0 adapter (Class 1) ~£10 on amazon.co.uk.<br />
** Another sample: Product ID: 0a12:0001, pictured here: http://www.element14.com/community/message/58288<br />
** RiiTek RT-MWK02+ - comes with a USB Bluetooth adapter that works perfectly for both the RiiTek mini Bluetooth keyboard/mouse and other Bluetooth devices. Tested both on builtin USB and on powered USB hub. There are other RiiTek Bluetooth (and non-Bluetooth wireless) devices on the working list. Bluetooth adapter shows up in lsusb as "0a12:0001 Cambridge Silicon Radio" - this is notable as most other sources of this chipset do not seem to be available in the US.<br />
* D-Link DBT-122, with ID 07d1:f101, using a Broadcom chip<br />
** http://www.element14.com/community/message/58288<br />
* IOGear GBU321 (Broadcom BCM2045 Chipset)<br />
** Works with Raspbian Wheezy directly attached to Raspberry Pi and via powered USB hub.<br />
* Trust BT-2400p<br />
** Working well with Raspbian Wheezy directly attached to Raspberry Pi. Using with sma-Bluetooth (SMA Solar Inverter reading software).<br />
===Working Bluetooth/Wifi Combo adapters===<br />
* PLANEX 2 in 1 Micro Size USB Bluetooth3.0 WiFi Combo Adapter - Model number: BT-Micro3H2X<ref>http://www.raspberrypi.org/phpBB3/viewtopic.php?f=45&t=27678</ref><br />
* Cirago Bluetooth 3.0 High Speed & Wi-Fi Combo USB Mini Adapter, Class 2 (BTA7300)<ref>http://www.raspberrypi.org/phpBB3/viewtopic.php?f=45&t=27678</ref><br />
<br />
===Problem Bluetooth adapters===<br />
* '''Belkin'''<br />
** Belkin F8T017. Tested with Raspbian 2012-07-15 and bluez installed with apt-get. When dongle is inserted into Pluscom powered USB hub, my remote PuTTY session scrolls incredibly slowly (testing with ls -R to generate text). Suspect network issue. Lots of errors on dmesg too. Raspberry Pi itself is responsive when using directly. On removal of the device everything goes back to normal.<br />
* '''Generic'''<br />
** [http://dx.com/p/mini-bluetooth-v3-0-usb-2-0-dongle-71248 Bluetooth "3.0" Dongle]. Doesn't work reliably - eg. after some time it will hang and the device will need to be reset using fcntl. The device id is 1131:1004 Integrated System Solution Corp. Bluetooth Device.<br />
* Asus USB-BT211<br />
** Shows up as HCI device in Raspbian, but it does not scan or pair.<br />
** http://www.raspberrypi.org/phpBB3/viewtopic.php?f=28&t=9962<br />
<br />
== USB Ethernet adapters ==<br />
===Working Ethernet adapters===<br />
* '''AVM'''<br />
** FRITZ!Box WLAN 3030 USB Ethernet Adapter: Works out of the box. No external power source needed.<br />
* '''Wintech'''<br />
** USB 2.0 LanCard Model: LAU-15 (CK0049C) using the mcs7830 driver. Probably needs more than 100&nbsp;mA current. [http://www.raspberrypi.org/phpBB3/viewtopic.php?f=46&t=8708#p106136]<br />
* '''LogiLink'''<br />
** USB 2.0 UA0144: AX88772 chipset using the asix kernel driver. Tested only on powered USB hub so far.<br />
** LogiLink Fast EN USB 2.0 to RJ45 Adapter: Test on Wheezy-Raspian (2012-08-16) without USB Hub will be confirmed<br />
lsusb output: Bus 001 Device 004: ID 9710:7830 MosChip Semiconductor MCS7830 10/100 Mbps Ethernet adapter <br />
* '''Apple'''<br />
** Apple USB Ethernet Adapter using asix kernel driver. Works out of the box on Raspbian, haven't tested on any other OS.<br />
* '''Edimax'''<br />
** Edimax EU-4230 USB2.0 Fast Ethernet Adapter with 3 port USB hub. Works out of the box. Needs its own power source.<br />
* '''D-Link'''<br />
** D-Link DUB-E100 Fast Ethernet USB 2.0 Adapter - works out of the box, requires own power supply (from powered USB hub)<br />
* '''Sabrent'''<br />
** Sabrent USB 2.0 10/100 Ethernet Adapter - works out of the box (asix), but USB 2.0 '''only''' (does not work if using dwc_otg.speed=1 in cmdline.txt to force USB 1.1 for other problem hardware)<br />
* '''Sitecom'''<br />
** Sitecom LN-030 V2 detected as ASIX AX88772 USB 2.0 Ethernet Adapter works out of the box. Doesn't seem to require any extra power supply.<br />
* '''A-Link'''<br />
** A-Link NA1GU Gigabit USB 2.0 Ethernet adapter<br />
This adapter works, but it (probably) requires a bit of work. The driver for the chipset (Asix AX88178) included with the Raspbian kernel (v 3.1.9+ Aug 7 2012) does '''not''' work. With that driver the device is detected, but it does not seem to be possible to actually put any traffic through it. :-( In order to make it work you need to download the latest driver from [http://www.asix.com.tw/products.php?op=pItemdetail&PItemID=84;71;100&PLine=71 the chipset manufacturer]. The version I used was "Linux kernel 3.x/2.6.x Driver" v4.4.0, released 2012-05-18. Fortunately this is GNU GPLv2 -licenced source code and not a binary blob, so compiling it for the Raspberry Pi is perfectly doable. The hardest part was in fact getting the Linux source code required, because the repositores contained the source for the wrong kernel version. >:-( Fortunately there is [https://www.grendelman.net/wp/compiling-kernel-modules-for-raspbian-raspberry-pi a very useful guide] for how to get the sources from github, and preparing that source so that you can compile modules. Unfortunately you will have to compile the kernel (even if you don't actually install it) - which will take the better part of the day on the Raspberry, but once that's done you can unpack the driver source and just run "make && sudo make install". Reboot and you should have a fully working Ethernet adapter.<br />
<br />
The adapter seems to work without a powered USB hub, but according to the specifications it can draw up to 190&nbsp;mA, so there might be stability issues if additional power is not provided.<br />
* '''Hama'''<br />
** Hama 00049244 Fast Ethernet USB 2.0-Adapter detected as MOSCHIP 7830/7832/7730 usb-NET adapter. Works out of the box on Debian Wheezy/sid (2012-08-08-wheezy-armel)(not tested yet on other OS). No external power source or USB hub needed.<br />
<br />
===Problem Ethernet adapters===<br />
* Axago<br />
** Axago ADE-X1 10/100 Ethernet Adapter (USB: 9710:7830 driver:mcs7830). Adapter working about 10 minutes without problem, but after that kernel write error message to dmesg and no packet is received. Needed to unplug and plug USB again. Tested with and without powered USB hub. dmesg error: NETDEV WATCHDOG: eth1 (MOSCHIP usb-ethernet driver): transmit queue 0 timed out<br />
<br />
== USB Sound Cards ==<br />
You will usually want the <code>alsa</code> package for sound. In the Debian image for Raspberry Pi (and possibly other distributions) USB sound cards are prevented from loading as the first sound card, which can be an annoyance if it's the only device you have. To disable this behaviour edit <code>/etc/modprobe.d/alsa-base.conf</code> and comment out the last line; <code>options snd-usb-audio index=-2</code> . If you are not user ''pi'' you may need to add your username to the ''audio'' group thus: <code>sudo adduser yourusername audio</code> (user ''pi'' usually belongs to this group anyway).<br />
<br />
* '''Creative'''<br />
** [http://asia.creative.com/products/product.asp?category=1&subcategory=207&product=17892 Sound Blaster Play!]<br />
* '''Daffodil'''<br />
** [http://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B002FI7GWK/ref=oh_details_o03_s00_i00 USB Sound Adapter US01]. Tested with low-cost headphone/microphone set via ''audacity'' (See notes at [http://www.cpmspectrepi.webspace.virginmedia.com/raspberry_pi/MoinMoinExport/DaffodilUSBSoundAdapter.html CPM-Spectre-Pi...DaffodilUSBSoundAdapter]).<br />
* '''Edirol'''<br />
** [http://www.roland.com/products/en/UA-1A/ UA-1A]<br />
* '''Hercules'''<br />
** [http://www.hercules.com/fr/Cartes-Son/bdd/p/123/gamesurround-muse-xl-pocket-lt3/ Gamesurround Muse XL (Pocket LT3)]<br />
* '''Logilink'''<br />
** [http://www.logilink.de/showproduct/UA0053.htm?seticlanguage=en UA0053 USB Soundcard with Virtual 3D Soundeffects LogiLink]<br />
* '''Logitech'''<br />
** [http://www.amazon.com/Logitech-Wireless-Gaming-Headset-Surround/dp/B003VANOFY/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1358114107&sr=8-1&keywords=g930 Logitech G930 Wireless Gaming Headset with 7.1 Surround Sound] (stereo works with ALSA, have not tried 7.1 Surround Sound)<br />
* '''NuForce uDAC-2'''<br />
** [http://www.nuforce.com/hp/products/iconudac2/index.php NuForce uDAC-2 Headphone Amplifier and USB DAC]<br />
* '''Terratec'''<br />
** [http://www.terratec.net/fr/produkte/Aureon_Dual_USB_12339.html Aureon Dual USB] (not with USB high speed; add dwc_otg.speed=1 to /boot/cmdline.txt, but that will slow down all USB transfers)<br />
* '''Texas Instruments PCM2704'''<br />
** [http://www.ti.com/product/pcm2704 PCM2704 98&nbsp;dB SNR Stereo USB2.0 FS DAC with line-out and S/PDIF output, Bus/Self-powered]<br />
<br />
==USB 3G Dongles==<br />
* Huawei E173<br />
* Huawei E220<br />
* Huawei E160 (AT commands only)<br />
* Franklin U600 from Sprint / VirginMobile<br />
** Use usb_modeswitch and vendor 0x1fac and product 0x0150/0x0151<br />
* Digicom Internet Key 7.2 HSUPA '''MU372-L01''' [http://www.digicom.it/digisit/prodotti.nsf/itprodottiidx/MU372L01]<br />
Tested on Raspbian and Archlinux. Detected as 230d:0001. Works with cdc_acm driver. Install usb_modeswitch.<br />
There are 2 "com ports"( /dev/ttyACM0 and /dev/ttyACM1 ) . Tested with Network Manager.Works also perfectly with SAKYS3G [http://www.sakis3g.org/] tools (!! led is always off !!) and wvdial. A working wvdial.conf: http://ubuntuforums.org/showpost.php?p=10361881&postcount=28 . (for example for Vodafone IT , replace Init3 with this: Init3 = AT+CGDCONT=1,"IP","web.omnitel.it" and replace line Modem = /dev/ttyUSB0 with Modem = /dev/ttyACM1 ) and run with wvdial voda .<br />
<br />
== USB IR Receivers==<br />
SMK Manufacturing, Inc. eHome Infrared Receiver (Works out of the box with OpenELEC)<br />
<br />
== USB Radio devices==<br />
*FM Radio<br />
** ADS InstantFM Music - FM radio tuner works fine under Debian.<br />
<br />
== USB TV Tuners and DVB devices==<br />
*August<br />
**DVB-T205, based on rtl2832u chipset, working with [https://github.com/ambrosa/DVB-Realtek-RTL2832U-2.2.2-10tuner-mod_kernel-3.0.0 this driver]. Tested with Saorview (Irish DTT service), both HD & SD.<br />
*DVBSky<br />
**[http://dvbsky.eu/Products_S860.html Mystique SaTiX-S2 Sky USB]: Scanning/watching SD and HD works via vdr and streamdev plugin, watching on the Raspberry Pi directly is laggy as hell. DVB-USB and I2C support must be enabled in the kernel. Needs drivers/firmware from [http://dvbsky.eu/Support.html here].<br />
*Sundtek<br />
**Sundtek MediaTV Digital Home<br />
**Sundtek MediaTV Pro<br />
**Sundtek SkyTV Ultimate<br />
**[http://shop.sundtek.de DVB-C, DVB-T, DVB-S/S2]: digital TV works, streaming to Windows / Linux is no problem. Easy installation [http://support.sundtek.com/index.php/topic,4.0.html English]<br />
*Hauppauge<br />
** Hauppauge NOVA-T Stick (Revision 70xxx) DiBcom DiB0700 chipset, requires powered hub.<br />
** Hauppauge NOVA-TD Stick (Revision 52xxx) DiBcom DiB0700 chipset, requires powered hub.<br />
** Hauppauge WinTV-HVR-1950 (tested analog tuner with omxplayer)<br />
** Hauppauge WinTV-HVR-950Q (tested Digital OTA with TVHeadend in Raspbian)<br />
*K-World<br />
** K-World UB499-2T Dual DVB-T USB Tuner. IT9137 chipset. With no other USB devices connected Raspberry Pi can just about power this stick. IR and supplied remote work with XBMC.<br />
*Technisat<br />
**Technisat_SkyStar_USB_HD. Instructions: http://www.linuxtv.org/wiki/index.php/Technisat_SkyStar_USB_HD Used the Raspberry Pi to receive and redirect it via network to another host. Didn't try to play back the stream on the Raspberry Pi itself. Tested with Astra 19.2E radio and SD-TV channels<br />
*Generic<br />
** [http://www.onsources.com/product_images/a/757/watch_and_record_digital_tv_dongle__44323_zoom.jpg DVB-T USB Dongle (Silver casing)], based on AF9015 chipset.<br />
** [http://www.electrodepot.fr/media/catalog/product/cache/1/image/500x/9df78eab33525d08d6e5fb8d27136e95/P926993.jpg DVB-T USB Dongle], based on RTL2832 FC12 (HD/SD), IR was detected, but it is not tested.<br />
** [http://obrazki.elektroda.pl/8081115000_1317678968.jpg HDTV USB DVB-T] dongle, based on IT9135. This tuner comes in two revisions. Revision is printed on PCB.<br />
*** rev. 1.0; should work with 3.2+ kernel, need confirmation.<br />
*** rev. 2.0; works with kernel 3.6.11, without a powered hub. This tuner also requires a firmware (dvb-usb-it9135-02.fw) which can be downloaded from [http://logout.hu/bejegyzes/azbest/usb_dvb-t_tuner_it9135_rev2/hsz_1-50.html this page]. It's in Hungarian, so google translate or equivalent is recommended. The remote also works.<br>According to [http://www.raspberrypi.org/phpBB3/viewtopic.php?f=35&t=29141 this post], there may be issues on some software configurations when using ''omxplayer''.<br />
<br />
== USB Webcams ==<br />
<br />
This list is not entirely reliable, working does not necessarily mean working without errors. Please contribute with your own experiences!<br />
<br />
===USB Webcams===<br />
<div style="margin: -.3em -1em -1em -1em;"><br />
{| width="100%" bgcolor="#fff" border="0" cellpadding="2px" cellspacing="2px" style="margin:auto;"<br />
|- align="center" bgcolor="#e7eef6"<br />
| '''Brand'''<br />
| '''Name'''<br />
| '''Model Number'''<br />
| '''Hardware ID'''<br />
| '''Verified OS'''<br />
| '''Verified OS version'''<br />
| '''Verified Resolution'''<br />
| '''Additional Information'''<br />
<br />
<br />
|- valign="top" align="left" style="background: #F6D2CF;"<br />
|Canyon<br />
|<br />
|CNR-WCAM820<br />
|<br />
| raspbian/wheezy<br />
|<br />
| 1280x1024<br />
| 2 Mpixel camera with manual focus; works with fswebcam and v4l4j on Raspbian Wheezy armhf; problems with 1600x1200 resolution in some apps (timeouts - probably too slow USB); 1280x1024 and lower resolutions works OK<br />
<br />
|- valign="top" align="left" style="background: #F5FAFF;"<br />
|Creative<br />
|Live! <br />
| VF0470<br />
|<br />
| ArchLinux<br />
| <br />
|<br />
| works out of the box on ArchLinux<br />
<br />
|- valign="top" align="left" style="background: #F6D2CF;"<br />
|Creative<br />
|Live! Cam Socialize HD<br />
| VF0610<br />
|041e:4080<br />
| raspbian/wheezy <br />
| 2012-11-26<br />
| 960x544<br />
| Works at 1280x720 taking stills in fswebcam with some errors using MJPEG, unusable with YUYV. 960x544 works in both MJPEG and YUYV. Has some stabilitiy issues if powered from RasPi (Drops USB +eth0 every 8 or so hours). Helps to append nodrop=1 and timeout=5000 to uvcvideo module.<br />
<br />
|- valign="top" align="left" style="background: #F6D2CF;"<br />
|Creative<br />
|Live! Cam Vista IM<br />
| VF0640<br />
|<br />
| raspbian/wheezy<br />
|<br />
| <br />
| works on Raspbian at 320x240 resolution, 15fps<br />
<br />
|- valign="top" align="left" style="background: #F5FAFF;"<br />
|Creative<br />
|Webcam Notebook<br />
| PD1170<br />
|<br />
| <br />
|<br />
| <br />
| Detects, untested.<br />
<br />
|- valign="top" align="left" style="background: #F6D2CF;"<br />
|Creative<br />
|Webcam Pro<br />
| PD1030<br />
|<br />
| <br />
| <br />
|<br />
| ov519 driver crashes almost immediately. ("gspca: ISOC data error: [0] len=0, status=-4004")<br />
<br />
<br />
|- valign="top" align="left" style="background: #F5FAFF;"<br />
|HP<br />
|WebcamHD-2200<br />
| HD-2200<br />
|<br />
| <br />
| <br />
| <br />
|<br />
<br />
|- valign="top" align="left" style="background: #F6D2CF;"<br />
|HP<br />
|Webcam HP-3100<br />
|HP-3100<br />
|<br />
| <br />
|<br />
| <br />
| UVCVideo /dev/video0 Needs chmod to 666 to operate. Will work without hub if only device in USB ports. Works with both Arch and Wheezy out of the box<br />
<br />
|- valign="top" align="left" style="background: #F5FAFF;"<br />
|Logitech<br />
|Webcam C100<br />
| V-U0013<br />
|<br />
| raspbian/wheezy <br />
| 2012-08-16<br />
| <br />
| works fine without powered hub<br />
<br />
|- valign="top" align="left" style="background: #F5FAFF;"<br />
|Logitech<br />
|Webcam C200<br />
| <br />
| 046d:0802<br />
| <br />
|<br />
| <br />
| <br />
<br />
|- valign="top" align="left" style="background: #F5FAFF;"<br />
|Logitech<br />
|Webcam C270<br />
| <br />
|<br />
|<br />
| <br />
| <br />
| With external power<br />
<br />
|- valign="top" align="left" style="background: #F5FAFF;"<br />
|Logitech<br />
|Webcam C310<br />
| <br />
|<br />
|<br />
| <br />
| <br />
| Does not require a powered hub to capture snapshots<br />
<br />
|- valign="top" align="left" style="background: #F5FAFF;"<br />
|Logitech<br />
|Webcam C510<br />
| <br />
|<br />
| <br />
|<br />
| <br />
| <br />
<br />
|- valign="top" align="left" style="background: #F5FAFF;"<br />
|Logitech<br />
|Webcam C525<br />
| <br />
|<br />
|<br />
| <br />
| <br />
| Works fine without powered hub<br />
<br />
|- valign="top" align="left" style="background: #F5FAFF;"<br />
|Logitech<br />
|Webcam C615<br />
| <br />
|<br />
| <br />
|<br />
| <br />
| Works fine without powered hub<br />
<br />
|- valign="top" align="left" style="background: #F5FAFF;"<br />
|Logitech<br />
|Webcam C905<br />
| <br />
|046d:080a<br />
|occidentalis<br />
|v0.2<br />
|1600x1200<br />
| Works fine without powered hub, she is uncvideo and detected out of box as Video0 V4L device. 1600x1200 is slow rate but he tested with motion.<br />
<br />
|- valign="top" align="left" style="background: #F5FAFF;"<br />
|Logitech<br />
|Webcam C910<br />
| <br />
|<br />
| <br />
|<br />
| <br />
| With external power, is uncvideo<br />
<br />
|- valign="top" align="left" style="background: #F5FAFF;"<br />
|Logitech<br />
|Webcam C920<br />
| <br />
|<br />
| raspbian/wheezy<br />
|<br />
| <br />
| With powered hub, detected out of box as Video0 V4L device<br />
<br />
|- valign="top" align="left" style="background: #F5FAFF;"<br />
|Logitech<br />
|QuickCam Orbit/Sphere<br />
| <br />
|<br />
| <br />
|<br />
| <br />
| Works with external power<br />
<br />
|- valign="top" align="left" style="background: #F5FAFF;"<br />
|Logitech<br />
|QuickCam Pro 9000<br />
| <br />
|<br />
| raspbian/wheezy<br />
|<br />
| <br />
| Powered by RasPi<br />
<br />
|- valign="top" align="left" style="background: #F6D2CF;"<br />
|Logitech<br />
|Webcam Pro 4000<br />
| <br />
|<br />
| <br />
| <br />
| <br />
| It uses pwc driver which does not work. Maybe it's because of general Raspberry Pi USB bug.<br />
<br />
|- valign="top" align="left" style="background: #F6D2CF;"<br />
|Logitech<br />
|Webcam Pro 9000<br />
| <br />
| 046d:0809<br />
| Arch Linux<br />
|<br />
| <br />
| Powered by RasPi, measured ~120 mA current capturing at ~5fps. Has issues capturing images at higher than default resolutions (using motion - Arch and Debian).<br />
<br />
|- valign="top" align="left" style="background: #F5FAFF;"<br />
|Medion<br />
|<br />
| MD86511<br />
|<br />
| raspbian/wheezy <br />
| 2012-07-15<br />
| <br />
| Powered by RasPi<br />
<br />
|- valign="top" align="left" style="background: #F5FAFF;"<br />
|Microsoft<br />
|LifeCam Cinemap 720p USB HD Webcam<br />
| H5D-00001<br />
|<br />
| raspbian/wheezy <br />
|<br />
| <br />
| <br />
<br />
|- valign="top" align="left" style="background: #F6D2CF;"<br />
|Microsoft<br />
|LifeCam HD-5000<br />
| <br />
|<br />
| <br />
|<br />
| <br />
| Picture breaks up at the bottom<br />
<br />
|- valign="top" align="left" style="background: #F5FAFF;"<br />
|Microsoft<br />
|LifeCam HD-6000<br />
| <br />
|<br />
| raspbian/wheezy <br />
|<br />
| <br />
| Powered by USB hub<br />
<br />
|- valign="top" align="left" style="background: #F5FAFF;"<br />
|Microsoft<br />
|LifeCam<br />
| NX-6000<br />
|<br />
| raspbian/wheezy <br />
|<br />
| <br />
| Powered by USB hub<br />
<br />
|- valign="top" align="left" style="background: #F5FAFF;"<br />
|Microsoft<br />
|LifeCam<br />
| VX-7000<br />
|<br />
| raspbian/wheezy <br />
|<br />
| <br />
| Powered by USB hub<br />
<br />
|- valign="top" align="left" style="background: #F6D2CF;"<br />
|Microsoft<br />
|LifeCam<br />
| VX-3000<br />
|<br />
| raspbian/wheezy <br />
|<br />
| <br />
| There do appear to be some issues with image quality and getting partial frames and such, with fswebcam<br />
<br />
|- valign="top" align="left" style="background: #F5FAFF;"<br />
|Microsoft<br />
|LifeCam<br />
| NX-6000<br />
|<br />
| raspbian/wheezy <br />
|<br />
| <br />
| Powered by USB hub<br />
<br />
|- valign="top" align="left" style="background: #F6D2CF;"<br />
|Microsoft<br />
|LifeCam<br />
| VX-800<br />
|<br />
| raspbian/wheezy <br />
|<br />
| 352x288<br />
| Doesn't work at full resolution<br />
<br />
|- valign="top" align="left" style="background: #F6D2CF;"<br />
|Microsoft<br />
|LifeCam Studio/Cinema<br />
| <br />
|<br />
| <br />
|<br />
| <br />
| Has UVC issues detailed here [http://www.ideasonboard.org/uvc/#devices]. Horizontal lines problem [http://www.raspberrypi.org/phpBB3/viewtopic.php?f=63&t=12304]. Stability issues [http://www.raspberrypi.org/phpBB3/viewtopic.php?f=63&t=12247].<br />
<br />
|- valign="top" align="left" style="background: #F5FAFF;"<br />
|Microsoft<br />
|Xbox Live Vision<br />
| <br />
| 045e:0294<br />
| Arch Linux <br />
|<br />
| <br />
| Powered by RasPi<br />
<br />
|- valign="top" align="left" style="background: #F6D2CF;"<br />
|Sony<br />
| Playstation Eye for PS3<br />
| <br />
|<br />
| <br />
|<br />
| <br />
| The occasional frame is corrupted/stutters when running at 640x480<br />
<br />
|- valign="top" align="left" style="background: #F5FAFF;"<br />
|Sony<br />
| Playstation Eye for PS2<br />
| <br />
|<br />
|<br />
| <br />
| <br />
| Occasional 'mangled frame' directly connected to Rev 2 Raspberry P<br />
<br />
|- valign="top" align="left" style="background: #F6D2CF;"<br />
|Sony<br />
| Playstation Eye for PS2<br />
| SLEH 00030<br />
|<br />
| Arch Linux<br />
|<br />
| <br />
| (OV519 camera). Picture constantly breaks up on xawtv and wxcam under Arch Linux. Noted there were ISOC data error len=0 status=-4004 errors in dmesg. This happens when powered from the Raspberry Pi and when powered from a Pluscom USB hub. Arch was updated on 17th July 2012<br />
<br />
|- valign="top" align="left" style="background: #F5FAFF;"<br />
|Trust<br />
| 2 MP Auto Focus Webcam<br />
| <br />
|<br />
| Arch Linux<br />
|<br />
| <br />
| works out of the box<br />
<br />
|- valign="top" align="left" style="background: #F6D2CF;"<br />
|Trust<br />
| SPACEC@M 200<br />
| <br />
|<br />
| Arch Linux<br />
|<br />
| <br />
| (OV511 camera). Picture stops after a few seconds in xawtv under Arch Linux and xawtv reports libv4l2 errors. This happens when powered from the Raspberry Pi and when powered from a Pluscom USB Hub. Arch was updated on 17th July 2012<br />
<br />
<br />
|-<br />
|}<br />
<br />
== USB GPS devices ==<br />
<br />
*Columbus<br />
** Columbus V-800 (MediaTek (MTKII) 3329 GPS chipset) - does not require powered USB hub. Works on Wheezy (using gpsd & gpsd-clients)<br />
*Royaltek<br />
**Royaltek RGM 2000 SiRF2 using the included serial (TTL) to USB - converter. That uses a Profilic pl2303-chip so you'll need to compile the module or the kernel manually<br />
*Garmin<br />
**Garmin eTrex Vista HCx: It works, but it may draw too much power. To get it working (software part): https://wiki.openstreetmap.org/wiki/USB_Garmin_on_GNU/Linux<br />
*GlobalSat<br />
**GlobalSat BU-353 Does not require a powered hub, works fine when directly plugged into the Raspberry Pi. On Raspian, requires the gpsd and gpsd-client packages. For some reason, the gpsd daemon does not always start correctly on boot. You may need to do something like the following to manually restart it:<br /><pre>sudo killall gpsd; sudo gpsd /dev/ttyUSB0 -F /var/run/gpsd.sock</pre><br />
<br />
*Wintec<br />
**WBT-200: No problem on Debian<br />
*Holux<br />
**Holux M-215: Works fine on Arch, uses Silicon Labs CP210x RS232 serial adaptor driver<br />
*Bluenext<br />
**Bluenext BN903S: No problem on Debian image (19-04-2012).<br />
<br />
== USB UART and USB to Serial (RS-232) adapters ==<br />
A USB UART adapter is used to access the serial console of the Raspberry Pi from a development host such as a laptop or desktop PC. The USB end connects to the PC and the UART header end connects to the USB. While it is possible to connect the USB end to another Raspberry Pi, this configuration has not been tested unless explicitly mentioned against an individual entry below.<br />
<br />
*'''FTDI'''<br />
**FT232 chip based adapters works for some people, but others find it hangs Linux when the port is opened. The module is ftdi_sio.<br />
<br />
** FT2232D dual RS232/FIFO works (used in various JTAG devices)<br />
<br />
*'''Prolific'''<br />
**PL2303 chip based adaptors works fine on latest Debian tested with ''minicom'' and ''gtkterm''<br />
<br />
A USB to Serial (RS-232) adapter is used the other way around, ie. the USB end connects to the Raspberry Pi and the RS-232 end (DSUB-9 or DSUB-25 pin) to the other device which may be another computer, (old) modem or printer, or some electronic test equipment.<br />
<br />
*"Best Connectivity" (Possibly also sold under the "Newlink HQ" or "Kenable HQ" labels)<br />
**FG-U1232-PL2 Based upon the Prolific PL2303X chipset and listed by ''lsusb'' as <code>ID 067b:2303 Prolific Technology, Inc. PL2303 Serial Port</code>. Appears as <code>/dev/ttyUSB0</code>, and requires the user to be a member of the ''dialout'' group (which ''pi'' is for ''Raspbian Wheezy''). Initially tested using an old RS Datalinker setup in "loopback" mode via ''microcom'' upto 9600 baud, and ''gtkterm'' after installing that from source code. All handshake lines toggled as expected and no characters were lost. Subsequently ''gtkterm'' was used to check bi-directional communication with an ancient brother EP44 electronic typewriter (as a printer/dumb terminal) at 1200 baud. Signal lines were again monitored with the Datalinker.<br />
<br />
== Other, exotic USB devices ==<br />
=== USB to Parallel Port/Printer Adapters ===<br />
*'''Prolific'''<br />
**PL2305 Chipset with Centronics 36w connector. Originally purchased for use with a netbook and connected to an old Canon BJC-250 printer. Worked fine under [[RPi_Distributions#RISC_OS| RISC OS Raspberry Pi]] with its in-built BJC-250 driver. Could not install the CUPS drivers etc. for Wheezy-Raspbian initially, but was able to do so for Wheezy-armel. Once I'd updated/upgraded Wheezy all was fine.(See notes at [http://www.cpmspectrepi.webspace.virginmedia.com/raspberry_pi/MoinMoinExport/USBtoParPrntAdapter.html CPM-Spectre-Pi...USBtoParPrntAdapter] for more info. and also a [http://www.cpmspectrepi.webspace.virginmedia.com/raspberry_pi/MoinMoinExport/WheezyCUPS.html CUPS/Wheezy installation guide])<br />
<br />
=== USB to SATA ===<br />
*'''Nippon Labs'''<br />
** 2.5" SATA HDD USB Adapter with silicone HDD sleeve. Model: USB-ADT-25SATA. Works on powered Hub, not directly to Raspberry Pi. Built-in "Y" power adapter.<br />
<br />
=== CAN Bus ===<br />
*PEAK-System (www.peak-system.com)<br />
**PCAN-USB using the driver (kernel module) from http://www.peak-system.com/fileadmin/media/linux/index.htm<br />
=== Home automation ===<br />
*Tellstick (www.telldus.com), installation [[R-Pi_Tellstick_core|instructions]]<br />
**Depends on libftdi1<br />
<br />
=== Touch Screen ===<br />
*ACER T230H touch screen [http://support.acer.com/acerpanam/monitor/2009/acer/t230h/t230hnv.shtml]<br />
**USB TS identifies as "Quanta Computer, Inc. Optical dual-touch panel", module hid_quanta<br />
**Seems to draw over 200&nbsp;mA from USB!<br />
=== Floppy Disk Drive ===<br />
*Samsung USB Floppy Drive SFD-321U/HP<br />
**I suppose a floppy drive might be considered exotic nowadays!<br />
**LSUSB lists it as Samsung Electro-Mechanics Co. Floppy Disk Drive<br />
**Only tried connected to a powered USB hub, as the drive is labelled 5&nbsp;V at 0.5&nbsp;A on a Raspberry Pi running Debian Wheezy.<br />
**tail -f /var/log/syslog looking for mount device when plugged in, came up as SDA in testing.<br />
**sudo mkdir /media/floppy<br />
**sudo mount /dev/sda /media/floppy<br />
**Contents of floppy now available in /media/floppy<br />
**To remove drive, ensure no sessions have the floppy directory as the current working directory.<br />
**sudo umount /media/floppy<br />
=== USB Missile Launcher ===<br />
*USB Missile Launcher / Rocket Launcher sold in UK by Marks and Spencer, but it is also sold under a range of other names.<br />
**USB ID 1130:0202 Tenx Technology, Inc. Use apt-get install pymissile (python code) and there is C code at [http://sourceforge.net/projects/usbmissile/ usbmissile from Source Forge]<br />
=== USB Docking Stations ===<br />
*StarTech USB 3.0 to Dual 2.5"/3.5" SATA HDD Dock (SATDOCK2U3GB)<br />
**This is an externally powered dual sata HDD docking station, which has USB2.0 compatibility with the Raspberry Pi. <br />
**Tested with latest Raspbmc and Debian Wheezy Raspbian, 3.1.9+ #168<br />
=== USB RFID Reader ===<br />
*Unbranded 125&nbsp;kHz EM4100 RFID reader from eBay sellers (< £7), the one with a Windows logo on (easily scratches off for Linux users).<br />
**Initially would not work when plugged in directly to Raspberry Pi. Worked when connected via an unpowered Trust hub. Worked after Raspberry Pi was modified with 10K resistors over the USB polyfuses (warranty invalidated). Probably would work fine with powered hub.<br />
**Sends a 10 digit string to current window or console as if it was a keyboard. Can be captured independently of keyboard using Linux event interface (/dev/input), but the kernel in current distributions does not have CONFIG_INPUT_EVDEV selected so kernel rebuild is necessary.<br />
=== JTAG ===<br />
* FTDI2232D dual RS232/FIFO based JTAG (e.g. SheevaPlug JTAGKey USB-ID 9e88:9e8f)<br />
** works using the Raspberry Pi as a development host<br />
=== USB 3.0 Multi-Card Reader ===<br />
* US Robotics All-In-One Multi-Format Card Reader (Product # USR8420) Accepts 5 cards simultaneously<br />
** SD/MMC + MS/MS PRO or DUO/DUO PRO + CF/MD + SM + SD/MMC or MS/MS PRO. Useful for backing up cards containing other OS Distros<br />
<br />
== PS2 / AT to USB Converters ==<br />
<br />
* Unbranded active converter known as the "blue cube". Based on the Cypress CY7C63723C 8 bit RISC. Please see http://geekhack.org/showwiki.php?title=PS2-to-USB+adapters for more information.<br />
Note that although the adapter might work, PS/2 keyboards were not designed to be low power USB devices, so they might not meet the requirement to work with considerable lowered supply voltage (4.4 volt) provided by the USB ports of the raspberry PI. These keyboards should work when powered by a powered hub. <br />
<br />
'''Tested PS2/AT keybords'''<br />
<br />
All above tested with the famous "blue cube" on a powered USB hub.<br />
<br />
*IBM Model F (please note requires an additional AT to PS2 converter)<br />
*Dell AT101w<br />
*Northgate Ominikey Ultra T (please note requires an aditonal AT to PS2 converter)<br />
<br />
* 04d9:1400 Holtek Semiconductor, Inc. PS/2 keyboard + mouse controller<br />
** Working: Ipex RT215KTW PS/2 keyboard<br />
** Not working: HP SK-2502 PS/2 keyboard (gets power, but it does not init - three LEDs remain permanently lit. Keyboard + Holtek converter work on a Linux PC, although this keyboard doesn't work with some native PS/2 ports.)<br />
<br />
== Power adapters ==<br />
The Raspberry Pi uses a standard Micro USB (type B) power connector, which runs at 5&nbsp;V. Generally you can use a MicroUSB to USB cable and then either power the Raspberry Pi directly from your main computers USB ports (if they provide enough power), or by using a USB to Mains adaptor. A number of mobile phones use MicroUSB power cables, and these are compatible with the Raspberry Pi in most cases. Below is a list of power adaptors known to work.<br />
<br />
===Working power Adapters===<br />
* '''Adafruit'''<br />
** 5.25 V 1 A Model 501 (Newark 44W4932) USB 110-240 VAC power supply [4.99-5.01 V @ T1/T2 with 100 mA BT and/or mini wireless-n on RPi USB ports]<br />
* '''AlcaPower'''<br />
** 5&nbsp;V 2.5&nbsp;A Model AP5A - Charger/switching with 7 connectors(also Microusb)<br />
* '''Ansmann'''<br />
*** Dual USB charger slim, Model-Nr. 1201-0001<br />
* '''Apple'''<br />
Note that apple designs its charger products to work optimally as '''chargers''', in practice this means that apple chargers drop their output voltages somewhat with output current, so that the charging circuits do not need to dissipate more heat than is strictly necessary. Because of this, and although many people have reported apple products to power their basic PI setup reliably, its still not an optimal choice for a PI system that uses power hungry USB devices. Also, because of the popularity and high price of these chargers there are many very sub standard, but almost impossible to recognize as fake copies on the market, and some of these fakes are about the worst things you can try to power your PI with! Not only do they not work, they may actually be dangerous to use!<br />
** 5&nbsp;V 2.1&nbsp;A USB charger for iPad2, model A1357<br />
** 5&nbsp;V 1.0&nbsp;A USB Charger for iPod<br />
** 5&nbsp;V 1.0&nbsp;A USB Charger for iPhone 4<br />
* '''Amazon'''<br />
** 5&nbsp;V 0.85&nbsp;A USB charger for Kindle<br />
** 5&nbsp;V 2&nbsp;A Mains to USB A adaptor, Branded "CostMad" <br />
* '''Asus'''<br />
** 5&nbsp;V 2.0&nbsp;A USB charger for Google Nexus 7<br />
* '''Belkin'''<br />
** 5&nbsp;V 2.6&nbsp;A 4 port Ultra-Slim Desktop hub (Model F4U040) (Raspberry Pi running from USB hub port)<br />
** 5&nbsp;V 2.5&nbsp;A 4 port USB Hub (Model F5U404) (Raspberry Pi running from USB hub port)<br />
** 5&nbsp;V 3.5&nbsp;A 7 port USB 2.0 Mobile Powered Hub (Model F4U018) (Raspberry Pi running from USB hub port)<br />
** 5&nbsp;V 3.5&nbsp;A 7 port USB Hub (Model F5U706) (Raspberry Pi running from USB hub port)<br />
** Mini Surge Protector Dual USB Charger (Model BZ103050-TVL)<br />
** Universal USB Wall Charger (5&nbsp;V 1&nbsp;A) (Model F8Z222uk)<br />
* '''Blackberry'''<br />
** Charger for Pearl Flip 8220, Bold 9600 (B)<br />
** Charger for Tour 9630<br />
** 5&nbsp;V 0.7&nbsp;A Model PSM04R-0500CHW1(M), RIM Part Number HDW-17957-003 (B)<br />
** 5&nbsp;V 750&nbsp;mA Model RIM-C-0004aDUUUC-001, RIM Part Number HWD-24481-001 (comes with Blackberry 9300)<br />
** 5&nbsp;V 750&nbsp;mA Model RIM-C-0004ADUUS-001 035D, Single port plug. (Tested with USB B to Micro USB cable from Logitech H760 Headset)<br />
** 5&nbsp;V 2&nbsp;A Model PSAC10R-050QT, RIM Part Number HDW-34725-001<br />
** 5&nbsp;V 550&nbsp;mA curve 8520 charger works with raspberry pi Model B Board v. BS1233. It does not work with Raspbmc image.Symtoms are frequent key board and external hdd disconnects.<br />
* '''Deal Extreme'''<br />
** [http://dx.com/p/5v-2a-regulated-switching-power-supply-110-220v-94518 S-10-5 5&nbsp;V 2&nbsp;A Regulated Switching Power Supply (110~220&nbsp;V)] (DIY: requires additional micro-USB connector and wiring)<br />
* '''Dell'''<br />
** USB Hub integrated in Dell monitors (B)<br />
* '''The FX Factory'''<br />
** 5&nbsp;V 1&nbsp;A (1.2&nbsp;A max) AC Travel Charger Model KJ-USB Mains. Typically provides 4.9&nbsp;V at 1&nbsp;A <ref>[http://www.cpmspectrepi.webspace.virginmedia.com/raspberry_pi/MoinMoinExport/USBPowerSupplies.html http://www.cpmspectrepi.webspace.virginmedia.com/raspberry_pi/MoinMoinExport/USBPowerSupplies.html]</ref><br />
* '''Garmin'''<br />
** 5&nbsp;V 1&nbsp;A charger (Model: PSA105R-050Q) supplied with Garmin Edge 800 GPS. Requires a USB-A to MicroUSB-B cable. Belkin 6&nbsp;ft cable (F3U151B06) works.<br />
* '''Globe Electric'''<br />
** 2-Outlet Tap with Surge Protection and 2 USB Chargers ([http://globe-electric.com/product/2-outlet-tap-with-surge-protection-and-2-usb-chargers-grounded-white/ 46082]). Rated at 1000&nbsp;mA. 120&nbsp;V systems only.<br />
* '''Griffin'''<br />
** Power Block Model P2417. 5&nbsp;V 2.1&nbsp;A<br />
** Power Block Model P1190R2 Two USB 5&nbsp;V Outputs, 1&nbsp;A each<br />
* '''Hama'''<br />
** 1000&nbsp;mA Travel Charger for Micro USB universal (barcode nr: 4 007249 935854)<br />
* '''Hartig + Heiling GmbH & Co. KG'''<br />
** H+H SN 6 USB<br />
* '''HP'''<br />
** 5.3&nbsp;V 2&nbsp;A Charger for HP Touchpad (B)<br />
* '''HTC'''<br />
** 5&nbsp;V 1&nbsp;A TCP-300 USB phone charger (B)<br />
** 5&nbsp;V 1&nbsp;A TC B250 USB charger (HTC R/N: 79H00096-00M)<br />
** 5&nbsp;V 1&nbsp;A TC E250 USB charger (HTC R/N: 79H00098-02M)<br />
* '''i-box (Philex Electronic Ltd)'''<br />
** 5&nbsp;V 1&nbsp;A USB charger, 1 USB socket, no USB lead supplied, Model: 76971HS/02 (available from ASDA and others in the UK) (B).<br />
* '''IDAPT'''<br />
** [http://www.idaptweb.com/universal_chargers/i4/ i4 multi device charger] - 3 interchangeable device tips + USB A socket ([https://twitter.com/andrewmk/status/226057302879375361 see it in use])<br />
* '''Innergie'''<br />
**15&nbsp;W Dual USB Adapter. Model: mMini AC15. Output: 5&nbsp;V, 3&nbsp;A (max per port), 15&nbsp;W max. [http://www.myinnergie.com/DuoPowerKit/specification.aspx Specification sheet]<br />
* '''Kodak'''<br />
** 5&nbsp;V 1&nbsp;A TESA5G1-0501200<br />
** 5&nbsp;V 1.0&nbsp;A K20-AM<br />
* '''LG'''<br />
** 4.8&nbsp;V 1&nbsp;A Travel Adapter<br />
** 5.1&nbsp;V 0.7&nbsp;A Travel Adapter (Model: STA-U34WVI)<br />
** 5.1&nbsp;V 0.7&nbsp;A Travel Adapter (Model: STA-U12ER)<br />
* '''Logic'''<br />
** 4 port USB Hub (Model LP4HUB10). (Raspberry Pi running from USB Hub port, red power line (+5&nbsp;V) inside hub cut) (B)<br />
*'''LogiLink'''<br />
**5&nbsp;V 2.1&nbsp;A Switching power supply, model PA0040 (B)<br />
* '''Logitech'''<br />
** 5&nbsp;V 1&nbsp;A SDC115-USB Remote Control Charger and cable<br />
* '''Maplin Electronics'''<br />
** 5&nbsp;V 1&nbsp;A dual USB power supply, model number H25B-MT-K2<br />
** Micro USB Power Supply N19HX<br />
* '''Medion'''<br />
** 5&nbsp;V 1&nbsp;A USB power supply for OYO ebook reader<br />
* '''Microsoft'''<br />
*** Zune Zune AC Adapter v2 <br />
* '''Motorola'''<br />
** [http://www.amazon.com/Motorola-Micro-USB-Home-Travel-Charger/dp/B004EYSKM8/ 5&nbsp;V 0.85&nbsp;A SPN5504 Charger with Cable]<br />
* '''Noname'''<br />
** 5&nbsp;V 2.1&nbsp;A KMS-AC09 4 port USB charger (B) [http://www.miniinthebox.com/kms-ac09-universal-ac-adapter-for-ipad-ipad-2-iphone-white_p208568.html]<br />
** 5.2&nbsp;V 1&nbsp;A MW-3NU10GT - no cable, but this one works well (1m): [http://www.amazon.de/gp/product/B005L8VELA]<br />
** 5&nbsp;V 1&nbsp;A Model H-IP008 Serial No. H10T80L068<br />
* '''Novatel Wireless'''<br />
** 5&nbsp;V 1.05&nbsp;A Charger, model number SSW-1811, packaged with Verizon Wireless MiFi device<br />
* '''Orange'''<br />
** 5&nbsp;V 0.7&nbsp;A Charger for Orange San Francisco<br />
* '''Palm'''<br />
** 5&nbsp;V 1&nbsp;A Charger for Palm Pixi+ (B)<br />
* '''Pantech'''<br />
** 5.0&nbsp;V 1&nbsp;A CNR USB with LG DLC100 micro USB cable<br />
* '''Petzl'''<br />
** 5.0&nbsp;V 1&nbsp;A Charger that came with the Tikka core2 XP<br />
* '''Phihong'''<br />
** Switching Power Supply. Model: PSAC09R-050. Output: 5&nbsp;V, 1.8&nbsp;A, microUSB. [http://www.digikey.com/product-detail/en/PSAC09R-050/993-1109-ND/2635771 Digi-key Link]<br />
* '''PortaPow'''<br />
** PortaPow UK Mains Wall Power Supply<br />
* '''PowerGen'''<br />
** PowerGen Dual Port USB 2.1A 10W AC Travel Wall Charger. [http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0073FCPSK Amazon Link]<br />
* '''Rayovac'''<br />
** Universal USB Charger Model: PS69 100-240 VAC to 5 V 1 A (small cube w/folding plug) works w/wireless keyboard/mouse and mini-Wifi connected<br />
* '''RS Components'<br />
** HNP06UK (RS 7263069) Switching Adapter 5.0&nbsp;V 1200&nbsp;mA<br />
* '''Samsung'''<br />
** 5&nbsp;V 0.7&nbsp;A Charger for Galaxy S model ETA0U10EBE<br />
** 5&nbsp;V 0.7&nbsp;A Charger for Galaxy SII<br />
** 5&nbsp;V 1&nbsp;A Charger for Galaxy SIII<br />
** 5&nbsp;V 1&nbsp;A Charger for Galaxy Nexus<br />
** 5&nbsp;V 0.7&nbsp;A Charger for Galaxy S Vibrant (SGH-T959)<br />
** 5&nbsp;V 0.7&nbsp;A Travel Adapter model ATADU10EBE<br />
** 5&nbsp;V 1&nbsp;A? Samsung C Series TV USB-port for external HDDs. Running stable with openelec<br />
** 5&nbsp;V ?A (Unknown) Samsung Service Port (USB) on LN32A330J1DXZA 720p 32 inch HDTV <br />
** 5&nbsp;V Unknown Ampere Samsung UA22D5000 & UA32D5000 TV USB Port. Test with Raspbian Wheezy, Raspbmc, and RPITC<br />
* '''Shun Shing'''<br />
** 100-240&nbsp;VAC to 5&nbsp;VDC 1&nbsp;A USB power supply, model SP5Q-AU [http://jaycar.co.nz/productView.asp?ID=MP3455 Jaycar]<br />
* '''Sony Ericsson'''<br />
** 5&nbsp;V 0.7&nbsp;A Charger CST-80<br />
** 5&nbsp;V 0.85&nbsp;A Greenheart&#153; Charger EP800. Typically provides 4.8&nbsp;V at 0.85&nbsp;A <ref>[http://www.cpmspectrepi.webspace.virginmedia.com/raspberry_pi/MoinMoinExport/USBPowerSupplies.html http://www.cpmspectrepi.webspace.virginmedia.com/raspberry_pi/MoinMoinExport/USBPowerSupplies.html]</ref>.<br />
* '''StarTech'''<br />
** 4 Port USB 2.0 Hub Raspberry Pi can be powered just by plugging USB input into the Raspberry Pi, don't need power in micro USB port.<br />
* '''Travel Charger'''<br />
** 5&nbsp;V 2.0&nbsp;A USB Power Adapter, [http://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B0065JCIPU/ Amazon Link]<br />
* '''Technika'''<br />
** 5&nbsp;V 1&nbsp;A USB Power Adapter, model MPASS01 (B)<br />
* '''The Pi Hut'''<br />
** Micro USB Power Supply for the Raspberry Pi. 5&nbsp;V 1000&nbsp;mA (from [http://thepihut.com/collections/power-supplies The Pi Hut's Raspberry Pi Store]) (also from [http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/330844162509 eBay ])<br />
* '''Trisonic'''<br />
** TS-CP600T - MICRO USB HOME & TRAVEL CHARGER (5&nbsp;V, 800&nbsp;mA) $3 at Daiso U.S. stores.<br />
* '''TruePower'''<br />
** [http://u-socket.com/ U-Socket] 5&nbsp;V 2.1&nbsp;A AC Receptacle with Built-in USB ports (2.1&nbsp;A per USB port) model ACE-7169<br />
* '''Voltcraft'''<br />
** SPS5-12W, 2500&nbsp;mA, requires additional USB <-> miniUSB adapter/cable, works perfectly (bought from [http://www.conrad.de/ce/de/product/512660/VOLTCRAFT-SPS5-12W-Steckernetzteil-Steckernetzgeraet-5-VDC-2500-mA-12-Watt Conrad Shop])<br />
<br />
===Problem power Adapters===<br />
* '''Nokia'''<br />
** 5&nbsp;V 1.2&nbsp;A AC-10A & AC-10E Chargers only provide 4.8V at TP1 & TP2<br />
** [http://accessories.nokia.com/products/nokia-fast-usb-charger-ac-16/ 5&nbsp;V 1&nbsp;A AC-16E Charger] Provides only 4.7V across TP1 & TP2 when at idle<br />
<br />
* '''Masterplug'''<br />
** Masterplug Surge Protected USB Adaptor 2 x 1&nbsp;A USB Polished Black - USB ports and Ethernet don't work with this adapter and some screen artefacts using HDMI.<br />
* '''Monoprice'''<br />
** 5&nbsp;V, 2&nbsp;A 3 Outlet Power Surge Protector Wall Tap with 2 Built-In USB Charger - some display artifacts, sometimes unable to find mouse, some failures to boot. Measured to less than 4.75&nbsp;V between TP1 and TP2 when used with a Monoprice cable.<br />
* '''Sony Ericsson'''<br />
** 5&nbsp;V, 850&nbsp;mA EP800. Some failures to boot, Ethernet loops at boot.<br />
<br />
===Working external Battery packs (with 5&nbsp;V regulated output)===<br />
* '''Anker Astro3'''<br />
** Anker Astro3 10000&nbsp;mAh with dual 2&nbsp;A USB output<br />
* '''Duracell'''<br />
** PPS2 Instant USB Charger<br />
* '''Energizer/XPAL'''<br />
** XP18000 18000&nbsp;mAh Power Pack<br />
* '''Generic - eBay no brand'''<br />
** 6000T Pocket Power 5000&nbsp;mAh - eBay item 271009959140<br />
** Power Bank for iPad/iPhone 5000&nbsp;mAh (looks the same as a New Trent IMP50D or TeckNet iEP380) - eBay item 280914455938<br />
* '''Mophie'''<br />
** 38113BBR Juice Pack Powerstation 4000 mAh: output 2.1 A max: included charging cable powers RPi, 7.5 hrs light use w/keyboard and mini-Wifi on RPi ports<br />
* '''New Trent'''<br />
** iCurve IMP70D 7000&nbsp;mAh (Approx 12&nbsp;hours from full charge)<br />
** IMP120D 12000&nbsp;mAh<br />
* '''Sinoele'''<br />
** Movpower - Power Bank 5200&nbsp;mAh (8&nbsp;hours with Wi-Fi active)<br />
* '''TeckNet'''<br />
** iEP387 Dual-Port 7000&nbsp;mAh External Power Bank (The charging lead can be used to connect the Tecknet to the Raspberry Pi. Ran the Raspberry Pi with Wi-Fi dongle and wireless keyboard receiver for over 9 hours of light use.)<br />
** iEP392 Dual-Port 12000&nbsp;mAh External Power Bank (1&nbsp;A port, ~16.5 hours)<br />
** Rayovac PS60 5&nbsp;V 800&nbsp;mAh<br />
* '''VINZO'''<br />
** Power Bank 5000&nbsp;mAh Grey Output 5&nbsp;V 1000&nbsp;mA<br />
* '''Kodak Power Pack KP1000'''<br />
** 1&nbsp;A USB rechargeable battery pack - see [http://blog.sheasilverman.com/2012/09/its-alive/ Shea Silverman's blog]<br />
<br />
== Display adapters ==<br />
Note that active converter boxes may draw power through the HDMI port, and thus will put an extra load on your PSU, and also increase the current running through the Raspberry Pi's primary input fuse. HDMI ports (and the raspberry PI) are designed so that they deliver a very limited amount of power (50&nbsp;mA) to the TV/Monitor/display-adapter and much more isn't in theory allowed. In fact there is a diode (D1) in series with the power line which can only handle 200&nbsp;mA, if the adapter tries to draw much more than that the diode might fail. Therefore only externally powered adapters are to be recommended. Despite this, many people report success with non externally powered devices. If you have bought a non externally powered HDMI to VGA adapter, and you experience problems with it (It behaves badly, D1 burns out, F3 "blows", or your PSU overloads), then not all is lost, there are cheap (a few dollars) adapters that allow you to add external power to the HDMI cable! An example can be found here: [http://dx.com/p/hdmi-male-to-hdmi-female-adapter-w-power-input-port-black-155361].<br />
<br />
===HDMI->DVI-D cables===<br />
HDMI to DVI-D cables, or HDMI cables with an DVI-D adapters should work, connected to a DVI-D monitor, that is because both HDMI and DVI use the same kind of digital signaling (LVDS). The only limitation being that DVI-D misses the signal channel for audio.<br />
<br />
There are three kinds of DVI. There is DVI-D, a digital signal fully compatible with HDMI, so a passive cable can be used. There is DVI-I, which is a connector with both analog pins and digital pins. An HDMI to DVI-D adapter fits in a DVI-I female connector. Finally, there is DVI-A. This a fairly rare connection, but occasionally it will be found on some monitors and is an analog interface, in fact the same as VGA!<br />
<br />
Some adapters like Farnell part AK-CBHD03-BK are HDMI to DVI-I, which, while not fitting in a DVI-D monitor, are still compatible. The analog pins simply must be bent.<br />
<br />
The HDMI to DVI-D cable provided by Apple with the 2010 Mac Mini worked. It does not appear this adapter can be purchased separately.<br />
<br />
* '''The Pi Hut'''<br />
** HDMI to DVI Cable for the Raspberry Pi (from [http://thepihut.com/collections/video-output/products/hdmi-to-dvi-cable-for-the-raspberry-pi The Pi Hut's Raspberry Pi Store])<br />
* '''Other Variants'''<br />
** AmazonBasics HDMI to DVI Adapter Cable (model SK231) works and is inexpensive.<br />
** [http://www.ebay.com/itm/DVI-Female-to-HDMI-Male-Adapter-Converter-Adaptor-Gold-for-HDTV-Full-HD-/320946033059?pt=US_Video_Cables_Adapters&hash=item4ab9dfd1a3 A generic HDMI-to-DVI converter from eBay]. Works well, but it's probably the cause of some power loss between the Raspberry Pi and the monitor, causing [http://elinux.org/R-Pi_Troubleshooting#Interference_visible_on_a_HDMI_or_DVI_monitor this] problem. A setting of config_hdmi_boost='''5''' in /etc/boot solved this. Note that config_hdmi_boost='''4''', as suggested in the troubleshooting guide, helped, but it did not solve the problem completely.<br />
<br />
===HDMI->VGA Cables===<br />
HDMI to VGA cables <strong>do not work!</strong> <br />
They rely on logic incorporated in a videocard that isn't available in a PI.<br />
Somehow such a videocard outputs analog signal on the otherwise purely digital HDMI connector, that seems to be the only way for it to work.<br />
But normally HDMI cables <strong>never</strong> carry analog signals and the PI surely doesn't output analog signals either, almost no HDMI output device does, as its completely against HDMI specifications.<br />
<br />
===HDMI->VGA converter boxes===<br />
HDMI to VGA <strong>converters</strong> do work, they convert the digital serial data streams from HDMI and using complex logic, and digital to analog converters they convert the HDMI signal to the analog signals needed for VGA, and sometimes also convert HDMI audio to an analog stereo signal. But note that if they feed off the PI it can cause a problem, as the PI only is designed to provide about 50mA to the (HDMI or DVI-D) monitor, and these adapters use >200mA, while the absolute maximum the PI can let through is 200mA.<br />
These adapters also thus use about half the energy that the PI (without USB devices) uses.<br />
Therefore its much better to use an adapter that has an external power input. Alternatively there are HDMI dongles (male to female HDMI adapters) that have a barrel input connector to feed the adapter with.<br />
<br />
Most will require use [[RPi_config.txt]]. Start off with hdmi_safe=1.<br />
<br />
[http://www.element14.com/community/groups/raspberry-pi/blog/2012/08/16/raspberry-pi-hdmi-to-vga-converter Sanoxy HDMI to VGA converter], $27 from Amazon, no changes required with official Raspbian Wheezy image (2012-Jul-15), note: had already disabled overscan previously<br />
<br />
http://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B007KEIRNG -- "Neewer" HDMI to VGA -- some issues discussed below:<br />
However, according to user "Tom1989" the same Neewer HDMI to VGA adapter burned out BAT54 Schottky diode D1 on the Raspberry Pi and broke its HDMI output: [http://www.raspberrypi.org/phpBB3/viewtopic.php?f=28&t=9819 Serious HDMI Problems. What's that smell? Burning Raspberry!]. On that thread, "mahjongg" suggested the NXP (or equivalent) PMEG2010AET as a high-current replacement for D1. The PMEG2010AET has 1&nbsp;A max forward current, much greater than the BAT54's 200&nbsp;mA limit which may be exceeded by your HDMI -> VGA converter. Remember that the converter's current must come from your Raspberry Pi power supply and go through the Micro USB cable and polyfuse F3, so you may get extra voltage drops and/or cause F3 to trip depending on how much current the converter uses. As always with board modifications, YMMV. Also on the "Burning Raspberry!" thread, user "pwinwood" reported the Neewer's current to be 400&nbsp;mA, which is twice the limit of BAT54 diode D1. "pwinwood" also took the Neewer apart and added its own +5&nbsp;V connection adapted from a USB cable, which bypasses Raspberry Pi's Micro USB cable and polyfuse F3.<br />
<br />
* Link to a gallery with detailed images & steps of the same adapter modification: [http://imgur.com/a/sLogs/all HERE] --''by [[User:Pinoccio|Pinoccio]]''<br />
<br />
http://www.amazon.co.uk/KanaaN-Adapter-Converter-Cable-Resolutions/dp/B007QT0NNW -- "Kanaan" HDMI-VGA<br />
<br />
http://www.ebay.com/itm/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=130699741793 -- eBay is swarming with $16 converters all like this one.<br />
<br />
This adapter -- http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/300692770623 -- works from 640x480 up to 1920x1080, audio over HDMI works too.<br />
Sadly the IC's on the PCB have all been scrubbed.<br />
Requires HDMI boost and overscan, [[RPi_config.txt|config.txt]] settings for 640x480 @60&nbsp;Hz:<br />
<br>hdmi_drive=2<br />
<br>hdmi_group=2<br />
<br>hdmi_mode=4<br />
<br>config_hdmi_boost=4<br />
<br>overscan_top=-30<br />
<br>overscan_bottom=-30<br />
<br>overscan_left=-30<br />
<br>overscan_right=-30<br />
<br />
According to user "Mortimer" -- HDFuryPro HDMI to YPbBr/VGA Converter found on Amazon -- http://www.amazon.co.uk/Inputs-Component-Video-YPbPr-Converter/dp/B00797ZZ4S/ -- Works with Raspberry Pi. Tested against a Philips 170B 1280x1024 LCD monitor, producing a full native resolution image. Not tested against a Component Video TV yet, and audio has yet to be got working.<br />
The [[RPi_config.txt|config.txt]] settings used are:<br />
<br>hdmi_drive=2<br />
<br>hdmi_group=2<br />
<br>hdmi_mode=36<br />
<br>disable_overscan=1<br />
<br />
<br />
According to user "Mortimer" -- HDFury1 1080p HDMI to VGA Converter from HDFury.com. I'm not sure the HDFury1 can be got a hold of easily nowadays, I happened to have access to one to try out. HDFury2, 3 and 4 are available as far as I can tell, but it is very pricey compared to the alternatives. HDFury1 was around £80 when we bought one for a project at work. HDFury2 seems to be around £130, 3 and 4 are getting on towards £200 or more. So not to be recommended as a solution unless you happen to have one lying around. I don't believe there is any relationship between the company that produces these and the HDFuryPro I bought for myself (See above). I didn't alter any config settings, just plugged it in. It doesn't work without having its external power supply connected, as it requires 0.4&nbsp;A, which is too much draw for the 5&nbsp;V supply available from the HDMI socket on the Raspberry Pi. Its power LED lights, but no picture is produced. In comparison to the HDFuryPro this picture from this device is sharper, but it is not enough to justify the extra cost.<br />
The [[RPi_config.txt|config.txt]] settings used are:<br />
<br>hdmi_drive=2<br />
<br>hdmi_group=2<br />
<br>hdmi_mode=36<br />
<br>disable_overscan=1<br />
<br />
http://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B007SM7O2U/ref=oh_details_o02_s00_i00 - "Cable Matters"<br />
<br />
Here It is another option: http://www.dealextreme.com/p/hdmi-v1-4-male-to-vga-female-converter-adapter-cable-white-15cm-130458, is cheap (it's free shipping from china) and works perfectly, I tested it with an Acer VGA monitor (AL1511), without no change in my XBMC distribution.<br />
The config.txt for Raspbian (Flatron VGA monitor 1024 * 768):<br />
<br>hdmi_drive=2<br />
<br>hdmi_group=2<br />
<br>hdmi_mode=16<br />
<br>hdmi_force_hotplug=1<br />
<br>disable_overscan=0<br />
<br />
<br />
And another one: http://cgi.ebay.pl/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=251086464644. It is very cheap, but it works perfectly. No config.txt changes was needed at all. I've booted Raspbian and OpenELEC. Monitor is detected correctly and the optimal resolution is set (Raspbian) or you can change the res in the menu (OpenELEC). <br />
The /opt/vc/bin/tvservice is able to read monitor edid data. I tested the adapter using NEC 72VM 15" LCD. (1280x1024 60&nbsp;Hz, 1024x768 60&nbsp;Hz, 640x480 works) The adapter is based on Lontium LT8511A chip, but I was unable to get the specification for it.<br />
The D1 diode is getting very hot though. Most likely the adapter drives more than 200&nbsp;mA. The standard RS Components 1.2&nbsp;A USB power supply is able to provide enough power for the Raspberry Pi and the adapter. I'll try to modify the adapter to connect external power to bypass D1.<br />
Marcin.<br />
<br />
===DVI-D -> VGA active adapters===<br />
None are currently listed<br />
<br />
===Composite->SCART===<br />
SCART adapters (SCART plugs with three RCA connectors in the back), will probably work when used with the yellow RCA plug connected to the Raspberry Pi's RCA video output. Additionally using a splitter cable (3.5&nbsp;mm jack plug on one end, and red-white RCA plugs on the other end) will probably work when plugged into the red and white (left and right audio channels) of the SCART adapter.<br />
<br />
* Generic - works<br />
<br />
===Composite->VGA converter boxes===<br />
* [http://www.extron.com/product/product.aspx?id=dvs204| Extron DVS-204] - works no problem!<br />
<br />
== SD cards ==<br />
<br />
The SD card section has been moved to a separate page. See [[RPi SD cards]]<br />
<br />
== Foreign Language Translations ==<br />
* [[Ru:RaspberryPiBoardVerifiedPeripherals]]<br />
<br />
== References ==<br />
<references><br />
</references><br />
<br />
{{Template:Raspberry Pi}}<br />
♦</div>Bgirardothttps://elinux.org/index.php?title=RPI_safe_mode&diff=207152RPI safe mode2013-01-04T06:16:19Z<p>Bgirardot: Added rev 1 and 2 board info</p>
<hr />
<div>This results in config.txt being ignored (except for avoid_safe_mode). A default cmdline.txt is applied, and kernel_emergency.img is loaded (if not available, then just kernel.img).<br />
<br />
It provides a means of recovering from, e.g.<br />
* too high an overclock<br />
* a typo in cmdline.txt<br />
* an incorrect kernel=<filename> parameter<br />
* an invalid display mode<br />
without requiring a PC.<br />
(Obviously it won't help if you've deleted start.elf...)<br />
<br />
The busybox based kernel_emergency.img has /boot mounted, and vi installed so you can fix up config.txt or cmdline.txt.<br />
(You can also mount /dev/mmcblk0p2 and fix up the rootfs if you have problems there that stop you booting).<br />
<br />
Connect pins 5 & 6 with a jumper or piece of wire. These pins are the 3rd row from the end of the P1 header closest to the edge of the board.<br />
<br />
Be very careful with where you insert the jumper. Some pins carry power, so shorting those would not be a good idea. Wire insulation stripped off of 20 AWG wire can be used to cover the power pins and help prevent accidents.<br />
<br />
[[File:Jump-pins-5-6.jpg|left|thumb|500px|20 AWG wire used to connect P1 pins 5 and 6 to boot RPi into safe mode. Also, 20 AWG wire insulation used to protect the power pins on the P1 header from accidentally being shorted to another pin or each other. ]]<br />
<br />
<br /><br />
<br />
More info:<br />
http://www.raspberrypi.org/phpBB3/viewtopic.php?f=29&t=12007<br />
<br />
P1 Pin diagram: [[RPi Low-level peripherals]]<br />
<br />
<br />
<br clear=all /><br />
<br />
== Wake from Halt<ref>http://www.raspberrypi.org/phpBB3/viewtopic.php?f=29&t=24682</ref> ==<br />
<br />
When using bootcode.bin dated 12/04/2012 or later, the same two pins (5 & 6) can be momentarily shorted to wake the Raspberry Pi from the halted state.<br />
<br />
The command:<br />
<br />
<code>sudo halt</code><br />
<br />
puts the cpu/gpu into a very low power state making the system safe to power off. Previously the only simple way to restart the Raspberry Pi from this state was to cycle the power. Recent changes to the bootcode.bin file will now allow the Raspberry Pi to be started by momentarily connecting pins 5 & 6.<br />
<br />
Just about anything made of conductive metal can be used to short these two pins for the moment require to start the boot up process, including a button or switch being wired to the pins.<br />
<br />
This method works on both Rev. 1 and Rev. 2 Model B boards.<br />
<br />
Be careful as power pins are located right next to these pins and you could permanently damage your Raspberry Pi if you accidentally short a pin to the 5v power pin.<br />
<br />
== References ==<br />
<references/></div>Bgirardothttps://elinux.org/index.php?title=RPI_safe_mode&diff=207146RPI safe mode2013-01-04T06:14:15Z<p>Bgirardot: Added info about wake from halt</p>
<hr />
<div>This results in config.txt being ignored (except for avoid_safe_mode). A default cmdline.txt is applied, and kernel_emergency.img is loaded (if not available, then just kernel.img).<br />
<br />
It provides a means of recovering from, e.g.<br />
* too high an overclock<br />
* a typo in cmdline.txt<br />
* an incorrect kernel=<filename> parameter<br />
* an invalid display mode<br />
without requiring a PC.<br />
(Obviously it won't help if you've deleted start.elf...)<br />
<br />
The busybox based kernel_emergency.img has /boot mounted, and vi installed so you can fix up config.txt or cmdline.txt.<br />
(You can also mount /dev/mmcblk0p2 and fix up the rootfs if you have problems there that stop you booting).<br />
<br />
Connect pins 5 & 6 with a jumper or piece of wire. These pins are the 3rd row from the end of the P1 header closest to the edge of the board.<br />
<br />
Be very careful with where you insert the jumper. Some pins carry power, so shorting those would not be a good idea. Wire insulation stripped off of 20 AWG wire can be used to cover the power pins and help prevent accidents.<br />
<br />
[[File:Jump-pins-5-6.jpg|left|thumb|500px|20 AWG wire used to connect P1 pins 5 and 6 to boot RPi into safe mode. Also, 20 AWG wire insulation used to protect the power pins on the P1 header from accidentally being shorted to another pin or each other. ]]<br />
<br />
<br /><br />
<br />
More info:<br />
http://www.raspberrypi.org/phpBB3/viewtopic.php?f=29&t=12007<br />
<br />
P1 Pin diagram: [[RPi Low-level peripherals]]<br />
<br />
<br />
<br clear=all /><br />
<br />
== Wake from Halt<ref>http://www.raspberrypi.org/phpBB3/viewtopic.php?f=29&t=24682</ref> ==<br />
<br />
When using bootcode.bin dated 12/04/2012 or later, the same two pins (5 & 6) can be momentarily shorted to wake the Raspberry Pi from the halted state.<br />
<br />
The command:<br />
<br />
<code>sudo halt</code><br />
<br />
puts the cpu/gpu into a very low power state making the system safe to power off. Previously the only simple way to restart the Raspberry Pi from this state was to cycle the power. Recent changes to the bootcode.bin file will now allow the Raspberry Pi to be started by momentarily connecting pins 5 & 6.<br />
<br />
Just about anything made of conductive metal can be used to short these two pins for the moment require to start the boot up process, including a button or switch being wired to the pins.<br />
<br />
Be careful as power pins are located right next to these pins and you could permanently damage your Raspberry Pi if you accidentally short a pin to the 5v power pin.<br />
<br />
== References ==<br />
<references/></div>Bgirardothttps://elinux.org/index.php?title=RPi_VerifiedPeripherals&diff=206456RPi VerifiedPeripherals2013-01-01T16:57:40Z<p>Bgirardot: /* USB Bluetooth adapters */ Added bluetooth/wifi combo adapter.</p>
<hr />
<div>[[Category: Linux]]<br />
[[Category: ARM Development Boards]]<br />
[[Category: Broadcom]]<br />
[[Category: Development Boards]]<br />
[[Category: RaspberryPi]]<br />
[[Category: Education]]<br />
{{Template: RPi_Hardware}}<br />
<br />
<br />
'''A note about this page: For USB devices, please specify if they required a powered hub'''<br />
==Notes==<br />
<br />
19-Apr-2012: Now that the Model B board is shipping, details added should relate to this board and the [http://www.raspberrypi.org/downloads default Debian distribution] unless stated otherwise. A suggested suffix markup scheme is as follows:<br />
<br />
* (A) - Relates to model A production board<br />
* (B) - Relates to model B production board<br />
* (!) - Information from alpha and beta board days -- beta board verified peripherals should still apply to production boards for the most part, but the alpha board is fairly different<br />
* No markup - relates to all production boards<br />
<br />
''Discuss: [http://www.raspberrypi.org/forum/?mingleforumaction=viewtopic&t=247 http://www.raspberrypi.org/forum/?mingleforumaction=viewtopic&t=247]''<br />
<br />
If you are adding to a product list it would help clarity if entries are kept/added in alphabetical order.<br />
<br />
==Power Usage Notes==<br />
{{Warning|Adding peripherals may increase the loading on the power supply to your board and this, in turn, may affect the voltage presented to the Raspberry Pi. If the Raspberry Pi's supply voltage falls below a certain value (anecdotally stated as around 4.75&nbsp;V), or it begins to fluctuate, your setup may become unstable. There is a [http://elinux.org/RPi_Hardware#Power Wiki section about this issue] which is worth a read.}}<br />
<br />
'''Model B Hardware Revisions and USB Power limits'''<br />
'''Hardware Revision 1.0'''<br />
The original Model B board had current limiting polyfuses which limited the power output of each USB port to approximatly 100&nbsp;mA. USB devices using more than 100&nbsp;mA had to be connected via a powered hub. The Raspberry Pi's PSU was chosen with a power budget of 700&nbsp;mA of which 200&nbsp;mA were assigned to the USB ports, so the Raspberry Pi's (poly)fuses were designed only for devices up to 100&nbsp;mA, and typical 140&nbsp;mA polyfuses will have as much as 0.6 volt across them when drawing currents near the 100&nbsp;mA limit. As a consequence the USB ports are only directly suitable for "single current unit" USB devices which, according to USB specifications, are designed to work with just 4.4 Volt. Not only do non single current unit devices draw more current (causing greater Voltage drops, and greater stress on the fuses), they also might require 4.75 Volt to work.<br />
<br />
'''Model B Hardware Revision 2.0 and Revision 1.0 with ECN0001 change'''<br />
This had the polyfuses removed, removing the 100&nbsp;mA current limitation for each USB port (but leaving the main fuse F3 intact). Users should still ensure their power supply can power the Raspberry Pi and the USB peripherals. Revision 2.0 was released in August 2012.<br />
<br />
==Linux Driver Issues==<br />
Shortly after the Raspberry Pi was released it was confirmed that there were a number of issues with the Linux USB driver for the SMSC95xx chip. These included problems with USB 1.x peripherals that use split transactions, a fixed number of channels (causing problems with Kinect) and the way the ARM processor handles the SMSC95xx interrupts. [http://www.raspberrypi.org/phpBB3/viewtopic.php?f=28&t=12097&start=76] [http://www.raspberrypi.org/phpBB3/viewtopic.php?f=28&t=5249&start=44]<br />
A large number of fixes were included in the 2012-08-19-Wheezy-raspbian Linux image.<br />
<br />
== Powered USB Hubs ==<br />
A number of low-cost powered USB hubs are known to have caused problems. Members of the Raspberry Pi forums have reported low power or no power at all in some cases. The following is a list of specific Powered USB Hubs which appear to be fault-free. Please note that these do not take into account powering the Raspberry Pi from the hub, in addition to its peripherals.<br />
<br />
If you use a powered hub and the Raspberry Pi PSU together consider powering them from the same power bar with switch, so you can turn them on simultaneously., especially if the HUB tries to feed the Raspberry Pi through their interconnect cable, due to the 100&nbsp;mA limiting fuse in the Raspberry Pi, the Raspberry Pi will be partially powered which may cause problems (unwanted writes to the SD card).<br />
<br />
===Working USB Hubs===<br />
<div style="margin: -.3em -1em -1em -1em;"><br />
{| width="100%" bgcolor="#fff" border="0" cellpadding="2px" cellspacing="2px" style="margin:auto;"<br />
|- align="center" bgcolor="#e7eef6"<br />
| '''Brand'''<br />
| '''Name'''<br />
| '''Model Number'''<br />
| '''Hardware ID'''<br />
| '''USB Version'''<br />
| '''Number of Ports'''<br />
| '''Power Rating*'''<br />
| '''Powers Raspberry Pi'''<br />
| '''Additional Information'''<br />
<br />
<br />
|- valign="top" align="left" style="background: #F5FAFF;"<br />
|Belkin<br />
|4-Port Ultra-Slim Desktop Hub<br />
|F4U040<br />
|05e3:0608<br />
|USB 2.0<br />
|4-Port<br />
|5&nbsp;V - 2.6&nbsp;A<br />
|Verified<br />
| Powers the pi quite well, 4.85V across TP1&2 during idle and load. The PSU for the hub is a 2.5A 5v made in china. Seems solid. Does backfeed the mini USB port<br />
<br />
|- valign="top" align="left" style="background: #F5FAFF;"<br />
|Belkin<br />
|Hi-Speed USB 2.0 4-Port Hub<br />
|F5U224<br />
|<br />
|USB 2.0<br />
|4-Port<br />
|5&nbsp;V - 500&nbsp;mA per Port<br />
|Not Verified<br />
|<br />
<br />
|- valign="top" align="left" style="background: #F5FAFF;"<br />
|Belkin<br />
|TetraHub™ USB 2.0 4-Port Hub<br />
|F5U231<br />
|<br />
|USB 2.0<br />
|4-Port<br />
|5&nbsp;V - 500&nbsp;mA per Port<br />
|Verified<br />
|<br />
<br />
|- valign="top" align="left" style="background: #F5FAFF;"<br />
|Belkin<br />
|Hi-Speed USB 2.0 4-Port Hub<br />
|F5U234<br />
|<br />
|USB 2.0<br />
|4-Port<br />
|5&nbsp;V - 500&nbsp;mA per Port<br />
|Verified<br />
|<br />
<br />
|- valign="top" align="left" style="background: #F5FAFF;"<br />
|Belkin<br />
|Hi-Speed USB 2.0 7-Port Hub <br />
|F5U237<br />
|<br />
|USB 2.0<br />
|7-Port<br />
|5&nbsp;V - 3.8&nbsp;A<br />
|Verified<br />
|<br />
<br />
|- valign="top" align="left" style="background: #F5FAFF;"<br />
|Belkin<br />
|MyEssentials 7-Port High-Speed USB 2.0 Hub<br />
|F5U259-ME<br />
|<br />
|USB 2.0<br />
|7-Port<br />
|<br />
|Verified<br />
|<br />
<br />
|- valign="top" align="left" style="background: #F5FAFF;"<br />
|Belkin<br />
|Hi-Speed USB 2.0 4-Port Lighted Hub<br />
|F5U403<br />
|<br />
|USB 2.0<br />
|4-Port<br />
|<br />
|Not Verified<br />
|<br />
<br />
|- valign="top" align="left" style="background: #F5FAFF;"<br />
|Belkin<br />
|Hi-Speed USB 2.0 7-Port Lighted Hub<br />
|F5U700<br />
|<br />
|USB 2.0<br />
|7-Port<br />
|<br />
|Verified<br />
|[http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000SDW84K]<br />
<br />
|- valign="top" align="left" style="background: #F5FAFF;"<br />
|Belkin<br />
|Hub 2-en-1<br />
|F5U706ea<br />
|<br />
|USB 2.0<br />
|7-Port<br />
|<br />
|Not Verified<br />
|<br />
<br />
|- valign="top" align="left" style="background: #F5FAFF;"<br />
|Belkin<br />
|Hi-Speed USB 2.0 7-Port Hub <br />
|F5U237v1<br />
|<br />
|USB 2.0<br />
|7-Port<br />
|5&nbsp;V - 2.5&nbsp;A<br />
|Not Verified<br />
|<br />
<br />
|- valign="top" align="left" style="background: #F5FAFF;"<br />
|Belkin<br />
|Ultra-Slim Desktop Hub<br />
|F4U040v<br />
|05e3:0608<br />
|USB 2.0<br />
|4-Port<br />
|5 V - 2.6 A<br />
|Verified<br />
|<br />
<br />
|- valign="top" align="left" style="background: #F5FAFF;"<br />
|Belkin<br />
|Ultra-Slim Desktop Hub<br />
|F4U039qukAPL<br />
|05e3:0608<br />
|USB 2.0<br />
|7-Port<br />
|<br />
|Verified<br />
|<br />
<br />
|- valign="top" align="left" style="background: #F5FAFF;"<br />
|Benq<br />
|<br />
|E2220HD<br />
|<br />
|USB 2.0<br />
|4-Port<br />
|<br />
|Verified<br />
|Monitor with built in Hub<br />
<br />
|- valign="top" align="left" style="background: #F5FAFF;"<br />
|Biltema<br />
|<br />
|23-924<br />
|<br />
|USB 2.0<br />
|4-Port<br />
|2.0&nbsp;A<br />
|Verified<br />
|<br />
<br />
|- valign="top" align="left" style="background: #F5FAFF;"<br />
|C3 Tech<br />
|7 Port Hub<br />
|HU-7201 BK<br />
|1a40:0201<br />
|USB 2.0<br />
|7-Port<br />
|5&nbsp;V - 2.0&nbsp;A<br />
|Not Verified<br />
|Backpowering - Mod hub or cut red wire in uplink cable.<br />
<br />
|- valign="top" align="left" style="background: #F5FAFF;"<br />
|Cyberpower<br />
|High-speed Hub<br />
|CP-H720P<br />
|0409:0050<br />
|USB 2.0<br />
|7-Port<br />
|3.6&nbsp;A<br />
|Verified<br />
|May Contain dual 05e3:0608 instead of 0409:0050<br />
<br />
|- valign="top" align="left" style="background: #F5FAFF;"<br />
|Dell<br />
|<br />
|2001FP<br />
|<br />
|USB 2.0<br />
|4-Port<br />
|<br />
|Not Verified<br />
|Monitor with built in Hub<br />
<br />
|- valign="top" align="left" style="background: #F5FAFF;"<br />
|Dell<br />
|<br />
|SP2309W<br />
|<br />
|USB 2.0<br />
|4-Port<br />
|<br />
|Not Verified<br />
|Monitor with built in Hub<br />
<br />
|- valign="top" align="left" style="background: #F5FAFF;"<br />
|Dell<br />
|<br />
|2407FWP<br />
|<br />
|USB 2.0<br />
|4-Port<br />
|<br />
|Not Verified<br />
|Monitor with built-in hub - 6-in-1 card reader Works, but it cannot read SDXC<br />
<br />
|- valign="top" align="left" style="background: #F5FAFF;"<br />
|Dell<br />
|<br />
|U3011<br />
|<br />
|USB 2.0<br />
|4-Port<br />
|<br />
|Not Verified<br />
|Monitor with built in Hub - Card Reader Works - May work with SDXC<br />
<br />
|- valign="top" align="left" style="background: #F5FAFF;"<br />
|Delock<br />
|<br />
|B/N61393<br />
|<br />
|USB 2.0<br />
|4-Port<br />
|2.0&nbsp;A<br />
|Verified<br />
|<br />
<br />
|- valign="top" align="left" style="background: #F5FAFF;"<br />
|Delock<br />
|USB 2.0 External Hub 7 Port<br />
|B/N87467<br />
|<br />
|USB 2.0<br />
|7-Port<br />
|5&nbsp;V - 3.5&nbsp;A<br />
|Verified<br />
|You can Power Raspberry Pi using one USB Port of the Hub there is no backfeeding, measured 4,88V on Idle and 4,82V on load on TP1-TP2.<br />
<br />
|- valign="top" align="left" style="background: #F5FAFF;"<br />
|Deltaco<br />
|<br />
|UH-715 Rev 2<br />
|<br />
|USB 2.0<br />
|7-Port<br />
|2.0&nbsp;A<br />
|Not Verified<br />
|<br />
<br />
|- valign="top" align="left" style="background: #F5FAFF;"<br />
|Dynex<br />
|<br />
|<br />
|0409:0050<br />
|USB 2.0<br />
|7-Port<br />
|2.0&nbsp;A<br />
|Not Verified<br />
|<br />
<br />
|- valign="top" align="left" style="background: #F5FAFF;"<br />
|D-Link<br />
|DUB-H7 High Speed USB 2.0 7-Port Hub<br />
|BUBH7A A5<br />
|<br />
|USB 2.0<br />
|7-Port<br />
|2.0&nbsp;A<br />
|Not Verified<br />
|[http://www.amazon.com/D-Link-DUB-H7-High-Speed-7-Port/dp/B00008VFAF]<br />
<br />
|- valign="top" align="left" style="background: #F5FAFF;"<br />
|D-Link<br />
|DUB-4 High Speed USB 2.0 7-Port Hub<br />
|DUB-H4<br />
|<br />
|USB 2.0<br />
|4-Port<br />
|2.0&nbsp;A<br />
|Verified<br />
|[http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16817111131] Charging port doesn't power Raspberry Pi<br />
<br />
|- valign="top" align="left" style="background: #F5FAFF;"<br />
|Digicom<br />
|<br />
|<br />
|<br />
|USB 2.0<br />
|4-Port<br />
|5&nbsp;V - 2.0&nbsp;A<br />
|Not Verified<br />
|[http://www.digicom.it/digisit/prodotti.nsf/itprodottiidx/MiniHubUsb204P#]<br />
<br />
|- valign="top" align="left" style="background: #F5FAFF;"<br />
|mbeat<br />
|13 Port USB Hub<br />
|USB-M13HUB<br />
|<br />
|USB 2.0<br />
|13-port<br />
|5V - 3A<br />
|Verified<br />
|<br />
<br />
|- valign="top" align="left" style="background: #F5FAFF;"<br />
|Monoprice<br />
|Aquagate USB Hub<br />
|5328<br />
|<br />
|2.0<br />
|7-port<br />
|2.0&nbsp;A<br />
|Verified<br />
|Has separate USB In port, in theory should prevent backfeeding (but that is not verified). get about 4.9V across TP1/TP2 when idling with Raspbian. [http://www.monoprice.com/products/product.asp?c_id=103&cp_id=10307&cs_id=1030702&p_id=5328&seq=1&format=4]<br />
<br />
|- valign="top" align="left" style="background: #F5FAFF;"<br />
|Trust<br />
|Plata 4 port USB 2.0 hub<br />
|18687<br />
|<br />
|2.0<br />
|4-port<br />
|1.0&nbsp;A<br />
|Not Verified<br />
|Probably not suited to power the Rapsberry Pi but works well as a hub on the Pi.<br />
<br />
|-<br />
|}<br />
<br />
<br />
'*' Power Ratings may not be completely accurate, use as rough guideline rather than fact.<br />
</div><br />
<br />
<br />
*'''Acme'''<br />
** USB 2.0 hub 4 port ([http://www.acme.eu/en-us/product/019188 ACME]) Based on NEC μPD720114 USB2.0 Hub Controller USB ID 0409:005a '''NOTE!''' It is bus-powered hub, but it is very cheap and small and works after a small modding: on USB-hub board you have 4 holes: V, D+, D- and GND. Connect GND, D+ and D- to the Raspberry Pi, and additionally connect GND and +5&nbsp;V from power supply to the same holes on USB-hub GND and V. Now there is common contacts: GND, D+ and D- between Raspberry Pi and hub needed to work, and additional power for USB devices, connected to the hub. Tested on my Raspberry Pi.<br />
<br />
<br />
*'''Digitus'''<br />
** 7-port USB2.0 Powered Hub. Model DA-70226.<br />
*'''Eminent'''<br />
** [http://www.eminent-online.com/en/product/22/em1102-4-port-usb-hub---black.html] EM1102 4 Port USB 2.0 Hub with 1&nbsp;A power adapter. It's able to power the Raspberry Pi, external HDD and other peripherals.<br />
** [http://www.eminent-online.com/en/product/27/7-port-usb-2-0-hub.html] EM1107 7 Port USB 2.0 Hub with 2&nbsp;A power adapter. It's able to power the Raspberry Pi, external HDD and other peripherals.<br />
* '''GearHead'''<br />
** [http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B004OBZ088/] GearHead 4 Port Hub with Energy Saving Power Switch (5&nbsp;V, 1&nbsp;A)<br />
*'''Gembird'''<br />
** Gembird UHS 242 4-port USB 2.0 Hub (5V DC, 1A). '''NB:''' This is a 4-port switching hub that enables the "sharing" of up to four USB devices between two computers. Whilst it may be powered externally, it does take power from both connected computers. If one of them is, say, a netbook or laptop, that may provide sufficient extra power to enable the use of USB devices that the Pi alone cannot handle.<br />
* '''Genesys Logic (sold at Fry's)'''<br />
** Genesys Logic 4-Port USB 2.0 Hub (ID 05e3:0608) (Other brands include Gigaware and Belkin, same ID shows up in lsusb)<br />
** Genesys Logic 4-Port USB 2.0 Hub (ID 05e3:0606) (Other brands include i-Rocks, same ID shows up in lsusb)<br />
* '''Hama'''<br />
** Hama 4-way USB 2.0 Hub<br />
*'''HP'''<br />
** HP ZR2240w 21.5" Monitor with built in 2-Port USB Hub (B)<br />
* '''König Electronic'''<br />
** CMP-USB2HUB55 - 7 port USB2.0 HUB, (ID 1a40:0201 Terminus Technology Inc. Hub) 2.0&nbsp;A power supply, backpowers Raspberry Pi well.<br />
*'''Laser'''<br />
** "7 port USB hub with AC adapter Version 2.0". 5&nbsp;V 1&nbsp;A (found at Harvey Norman Australia for $24.95 and Australia Post Shops for $9.95). You can power the Raspberry Pi by connecting both the main USB connector to the Raspberry Pi USB port, '''and''' from a spare USB port back to the power micro USB socket. If you don't do both, boot-loops are likely to occur.<br />
*'''Logik'''<br />
** [http://www.currys.co.uk/gbuk/logik-lp4hub10-4-port-powered-usb-hub-04979038-pdt.html] LP4HUB10 4-Port USB Hub. '''Throws errors when used with Fedora remix 14'''<br />
** Logik L4THUB10 4 Port powered hub works fine under Raspbian/Wheezy/model B. Captive USB cable, 2&nbsp;A power supply, convenient single top mounted USB socket. Unlike my last hub, will power Wi-Fi!<br />
*'''LogiLink'''<br />
** UA0085 USB 2.0 Hub, 4-Port with PSU 5&nbsp;V, 2&nbsp;A<br />
** UA0091 USB 3.0 Hub, 4-Port with PSU 5&nbsp;V, 4&nbsp;A. Connected with USB2.0 cable. 1&nbsp;A per port, able to support USB HDD drives and other power hungry devices. Tested with kernel 3.1.9-cutdown, Wheezy. <br />
** UA0096 USB 2.0 Hub, 10-Port with PSU 5&nbsp;V, 3.5&nbsp;A (Not suitable for powering Raspberry Pi because it doesn't work unless there is working USB input present even with PSU plugged in.)<br />
** UA0160 USB 2.0 Hub, 4-Port with PSU 5&nbsp;V, 2&nbsp;A. Able to power the Raspberry Pi, keyboard, mouse and LogiLink UA0144 USB Ethernet adapter. (More testing to come.)<br />
* '''Macally'''<br />
** [http://www.macally.com/EN/?page_id=2312] Hi-Speed 7-Port USB 2.0 Powered Micro HUB, AC Powered. Includes a 2000&nbsp;mA wall-wart (US style)<br />
* '''Manhattan'''<br />
** [http://manhattan-products.com/en-US/products/6500-hi-speed-usb-2-0-micro-hub] (#160612) Hi-Speed USB 2.0 Micro HUB, AC Powered (identifies as ID 05e3:0608 Genesys Logic) Includes a 1000&nbsp;mA wall-wart (US style)<br />
** [http://manhattan-products.com/en-US/products/9583-mondohub] (#161718) MondoHub 28 Port USB 3.0 & USB 2.0 HUB (24 USB 2 ports @500&nbsp;mA each) + (4 USB 3.0 Ports @900&nbsp;mA each) Power Switches on each port, AC Powered and Includes a 5&nbsp;V 4&nbsp;A wall-wart (US style)<br />
*'''Newlink'''<br />
** NLUSB2-224P 4 port USB 2.0 Mini hub with PSU 5&nbsp;V 1&nbsp;A<br />
** NLUSB2-222P 4 port USB 2.0 Hub with 5&nbsp;V 2&nbsp;A PSU (Available From [https://www.modmypi.com/shop/raspberry-pi-accessories/New-Link-4-Port-USB-Hub-(USB-2.0-with-Mains-Adaptor) | ModMyPi])<br />
*'''Nilox'''<br />
** Nilox USB 2.0 4port HUB model HUB4USB2AC with PSU 5&nbsp;V 1.0&nbsp;A<br />
* '''Plugable'''<br />
** [http://plugable.com/products/USB2-HUB4BC/] USB2-HUB4BC 4 Port USB 2.0 Hub with BC 1.1 Fast Charging. 5&nbsp;V 2.5&nbsp;A power supply. Powering Raspberry Pi via microUSB from a hub port. USB Audio peripheral tested and working.<br />
** [http://plugable.com/products/USB2-HUB10S] USB2-HUB10S 10 Port USB 2.0 Hub 2.5&nbsp;A power supply. Powering Raspberry Pi via microUSB from a hub port.<br />
** [http://plugable.com/products/USB2-HUB-AG7/] USB2-HUB-AG7 7 Port USB 2.0 Hub with 5&nbsp;V 3&nbsp;A power supply. There are US and UK power supply versions and it can be ordered in US and (for the UK version) many countries in Europe. There is a video showing this hub powering both the Raspberry Pi several peripherals at once[http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=pDA7MxFtoS0].<br />
<br />
* '''Pluscom'''<br />
** Pluscom 7 Port USB 2.0 Hub Model U7PH-3A with 3&nbsp;A PSU. USB ID 1a40:0101. Powering Raspberry Pi via microUSB from a hub port. Internally two 4 Port switches linked. Leaks power back up USB data cable to Raspberry Pi, but it is not really a problem when powering Raspberry Pi at the same time.<br />
*'''Satechi'''<br />
** ST-UH12P 12 port powered hub with 2 Control Switches. Also works while powering the Raspberry Pi.<br />
*'''Staples (Business Depot) (Bureau EN GROS)'''<br />
** Staples 4-port hub Item 607477-CA<br />
*'''StarTech.com'''<br />
** StarTech.com 7-port Compact USB 2.0 Hub (ST7202USB). Comes with 5&nbsp;V 2&nbsp;A supply. Shows in lsusb as two Genesys Logic, Inc. USB-2.0 4-Port HUBs (05e3:0608). Back powers Raspberry Pi (just, voltage across TP1 & TP2 is a little low when powered from this hub).<br />
*'''SumVision'''<br />
** Sumvision Slim 4 Port High Speed USB 2.0 HUB with PSU 5&nbsp;V 1.0&nbsp;A (from [http://www.7dayshop.com/catalog/account_history_info.php?page=1&order_id=5130107 | 7dayshop ])<br />
*'''Sitecom'''<br />
** CN-032 4 Port USB 2.0 Pocket Hub. Works for powering the Raspberry Pi, an USB WLAN Adapter, wireless Kbd+Mouse. Using an 2500&nbsp;mA Voltcraft <br />
** CN-060 4 Port USB 2.0 Hub powered with AC Adapter (1&nbsp;A). Powering Raspberry Pi via microUSB from a hub port.<br />
** CN-061 7 Port USB 2.0 Hub powered with AC Adapter. There is a voltage problem on the left half of the hub (4 ports) that do not deliver enough current to feed a wifi dongle (tested with an RTL8191S). The remaining 3 ports on the right half are instead working as expected. [http://www.raspberrypi.org/phpBB3/viewtopic.php?f=28&t=24247]<br />
*'''Sweex'''<br />
** US014 4 Port USB 2.0 Hub<br />
*'''Targus'''<br />
** ACH81xx 7-port powered hub. 5&nbsp;V 3&nbsp;A power supply, with 2 high power ports. (possible conflicting behaviour with USB keyboard / Wi-Fi Dongles)<br />
** ACH63EU 4-port. Using a 5&nbsp;V 2&nbsp;A power supply, which isn't supplied with the hub, it is able to power the Raspberry Pi as well.<br />
*'''The Pi Hut'''<br />
** 7 Port USB Hub (from [http://thepihut.com/products/7-port-usb-hub-for-the-raspberry-pi The Pi Hut's Raspberry Pi Store])<br />
*'''Trendnet'''<br />
** [http://www.trendnet.com/products/proddetail.asp?prod=130_TU2-700&cat=49] TU2-700 7 Port Powered USB 2.0 Hub with AC Adapter (5&nbsp;V 2&nbsp;A)<br />
*'''Tripp-Lite'''<br />
** [http://www.tripplite.com/en/products/model.cfm?txtModelID=3167] U222-007-R 7 Port Powered USB 2.0 Hub with AC Adapter (5&nbsp;V 2.5&nbsp;A) Powering Raspberry Pi from the hub works.<br />
*'''Ultron'''<br />
** [http://www.ultron.de/v1/produktansicht.php?artnr=67072&kid=bfa8340c4e245...&l=en&WGType=Neue+USB-HUBS] UHN-710 7-port powered hub with PSU 5&nbsp;V, 3&nbsp;A. USB ID 1a40:0201.<br />
*'''VANTEC'''<br />
** 4 Port USB 2.0 Powered Hub Model: UGT-MH304. 5&nbsp;V 2&nbsp;A AC/DC adapter. Go 2.0 Mini hub.<br />
*'''Z-TEK'''<br />
** Z-TEK 7-port powered hub with PSU 5&nbsp;V, 4&nbsp;A. USB ID 1a40:0201.<br />
*"Unknown"<br />
** 10(7-4) port hub idVendor=1a40, idProduct=0201 / idVendor=1a40, idProduct=0101 works<br />
<br />
===Problem USB Hubs===<br />
<br />
Please check known workarounds [http://elinux.org/Rpi_USB_check-list here] before adding to the list<br />
<br />
*'''Addon'''<br />
** 7-Port Powered Hub - labelled ADDUH070P - Gives constant Eth0 errors on boot.<br />
*'''Belkin'''<br />
** 7-Port Powered Mobile Hub - device labelled F4U018, packaging labelled F5U701. lsusb reveals it to be two Genesys Logic 4-port hubs based on the GL850G chipset (vendor: 0x05e3 product: 0x0608) ganged together. Yields a lot of "handle_hc_chhltd_intr_dma:: XactErr without NYET/NAK/ACK" errors and device resets in /var/log/messages. Low speed devices such as keyboards work OK, Wi-Fi/mass storage is unreliable or broken. -- No error messages with the latest kernel, but it is still unstable with mass storage devices. Also, leaks current back to the Raspberry Pi (can be fixed by overtaping GND and +5&nbsp;V pinouts)<br />
** F4U022 7-Port powered USB hub (powered 5&nbsp;V, 2.6&nbsp;A), same as F4U018<br />
** 7-Port Powered Hub - device labled F5U237 Rev.3 - ID 050d:0237 Wired Ethernet fails to connect; gives "DWC OTG HCD URB enqueue failed adding QTD. Error status -4008" Result is same as DUB-H7 below.<br />
** F5U404 Hi-Speed USB 2.0 4-Port Mobile Hub. Faulty/bad design; Leaks current back up the cable to the Raspberry Pi.<br />
** F5U307 Hi-Speed USB 2.0 7-Port Hub (Powered, able to apply power to Raspberry Pi via micro USB from this hub at same time) It work's sometimes. (Works always without powering the Raspberry Pi, haven't tried that)<br />
<br />
*'''Dell'''<br />
** Dell U2410 Monitor Built-in 4 Port Hub - Shows up as a pair with 0424:2514 and 0424:2640. Standard Microsystems Corp. USB 2.0 Hub. When connecting some devices it kills the Ethernet with "smsc95xx 1-1.1:1.0: eth0: Failed to read register index 0x0000011X" errors. It did work for a keyboard and webcam. Bluetooth that works connected directly to the Raspberry Pi triggers the error.<br />
<br />
*'''DELTACO'''<br />
** 7-Port USB Hub UH-713 Rev 3. This one consists also of two 05e3:0608 Genesys Logic, Inc. USB-2.0 4-Port HUBs connected together. The power supply is rated at 5 V 2 A. It kills Ethernet when X11 is started.<br />
<br />
*'''Dynex'''<br />
** 7-Port USB Hub - Does not work in Debian 19-04 image.<br />
** DX-HB7PT 7-Port USB Hub - As per the Gear Head below, it's 2 daisy-chained Genesys Logic 05e3:0608 devices. Appears to result in significant slow downs when the USB is under load, such as running the root filesystem from a USB drive.<br />
<br />
*'''Dynamode'''<br />
** 7-Port USB 2.0 Hub (Silver and black). Feeds power back up the interconnect to the Raspberry Pi causing the power LED to light on the Raspberry Pi if the hub is powered on, but the Raspberry Pi is not. The Raspberry Pi also fails to boot when powered off this hub, with or without the interconnect plugged in. Stops the network from working when connected to the Raspberry Pi after booting the Raspberry Pi - cannot ssh to the Raspberry Pi. Best avoided. :-( Shows up in ''lsusb'' as a pair of ''ID 05e3:0608 Genesys Logic, Inc. USB-2.0 4-Port HUB'' which is interesting. - Confirmed. This hub also appears unable to power an external USB drive using a y-cable as it gives the error -71 message in dmesg (when providing external power to the Raspberry Pi).<br />
** 4-Port High-Speed USB 2.0 Hub (USB-H40-A2.0), came with with a 1&nbsp;A power supply. Leaks power to the Raspberry Pi through the uplink. Doesn't work with Raspberry Pi, unless the Raspberry Pi is powered by a second power source. This hub is completely generic and I've seen it being sold under different brand names as well. Therefore, a picture is [http://i.imgur.com/BPZ3j.jpg included] for easy identification. <br />
<br />
*'''D-Link'''<br />
** 7-Port USB Hub DUB-H7 (Crashes USB stack, including Ethernet, when plugging / using some peripherals). (See note above, it works with some distros and/or with latest firmware)<br />
<br />
*'''E-Solution'''<br />
** 4-Port 2&nbsp;A Supply (Does not detect at all during boot or after boot- no messages) [IC = Alcor Micro Corp (AU6254)]<br />
<br />
*'''Fosmon'''<br />
** 7-Port USB 2.0 Hub with 1&nbsp;A Power Supply (Causes interference with other USB devices and sends enough power to light up the Raspberry Pi with it's Micro USB cable unplugged).<br />
<br />
*'''Gear Head'''<br />
** UH7250MAC 7-port powered hub. Internally, two daisy-chained Genesys Logic 05e3:0608 devices. Causes Ethernet instability when used under very specific circumstances, in X11.<br />
** <strike>UH5200T 4-port powered hub. As of 2012-08-16 Wheezy, if any USB 1.x device (a keyboard, for example) is plugged into this hub, Ethernet stops, and USB interrupts for other devices get dropped (keys repeating forever), etc. Occurs even if power is not attached (not a power leakage problem).</strike> Appears working after a bootloader and/or firmware update on 9/12. Also, turned out to be somewhat more specific to the combination of two particular low-speed devices.<br />
<br />
*'''Hama'''<br />
** 4-Port USB 2.0 "bus hub", model 78496 (?). Only works for low power devices (card readers?), but it does not work for power hungry devices (HDD and WLAN). It doesn't boot when hub connected to Raspberry Pi. The funniest thing is that Raspberry Pi powers on when I plug in this hub to normal size USB port (not that small dedicated port). idVendor=05e3, idProduct=0608<br />
<br />
*'''Kensington'''<br />
** 7-Port Dome Hub model no 1500129 (Possible problems with malfunctioning keyboard, kills mouse when GUI started).<br />
<br />
*'''iBall'''<br />
** Piano 423 4-Port USB hub. Listed in lsusb as Genesys Logic. Fails to deliver enough power to connected devices even when using AC power suply.<br />
<br />
*'''Inland'''<br />
** 4-Port USB 2.0 Cable Hub model no 480426 (Some devices work, some don't, cheap unshielded untwisted wire design)<br />
<br />
*'''Logik'''<br />
** LP7HUB11 7-Port USB Hub. (Ethernet failed, slow response, in LXDE. Happened whether or not the hub's independent power supply was connected to the hub.)<br />
<br />
*'''Soniq'''<br />
** 4-Port 5&nbsp;V supply. Model number CUH100. (B). Appears to draw power away from the Raspberry Pi, even when the Raspberry Pi has an isolated power line. Netgear WNA1100 Wi-Fi Adapter (which is known to work in other setups is recognized, but it is unresponsive).<br />
<br />
*'''Targus'''<br />
** ACH115EU 7-port powered hub. 5&nbsp;V 3&nbsp;A power supply. Arduino communicates with Raspberry Pi when connected directly to Raspberry Pi's USB port, but it hangs as soon as if connected via ACH115. Also sometimes smsc95xx eth0 Failed to read register index 0x00000114 etc. errors in syslog when used.<br />
<br />
*'''TCM'''<br />
** Model 234298 s/n T634007737 powered hub. 4 ports plus card reader. 1&nbsp;A power supply. Model B, Wheezy Raspbian works OK with keyboard/mouse, but there are problems with Wi-Fi no connects. (insufficient power?)<br />
<br />
*'''Trust'''<br />
** 10-port USB 2.0 Hub (powered). Prevents Ethernet from being recognised.<br />
** SliZe 7 port USB 2.0 Hub (powered) - Item number 17080 (Barcode 8 713439 170801). Prevents Ethernet from being recognised. Keyboard sends multiple characters. <br />
<br />
*'''Unbranded / Multiple Brands'''<br />
** 7-port silver/black hub. Also sold elsewhere under brands such as 'EX-Pro', 'Trixes' and 'Xentra' -- This is ''probably'' due to an inadequate power supply. -- I replaced the terrible power supply with a very good one, kept getting "DEBUG: handle_hc_chhltd_intr_dma:: XactErr without NYET/NAK/ACK" in dmesg, with no devices plugged in to the hub (with or without the power supply in). Measurements by [[User:TrevorGowen|TrevorGowen]] ([[User talk:TrevorGowen|talk]]) of the power loading behaviour of an example of this type of hub and its supplied PSU are logged at [http://www.cpmspectrepi.webspace.virginmedia.com/raspberry_pi/MoinMoinExport/PoweredUSBHubs.html CPM-Spectre-Pi...PoweredUSBHubs], together with similar measurements of other devices.<br />
** Generic 7-port black hub with Genesys Logic GL850A chipset<br />
** Cerulian 10 Port USB 2.0 Top Loading Hub with 2&nbsp;A supply (kills mouse and network port)<ref>http://www.raspberrypi.org/forum/absolute-beginners/cheap-powered-usb-hub-uk/#p76452</ref><br />
** [http://www.monoprice.com/products/product.asp?c_id=103&cp_id=10307&cs_id=1030701&p_id=226 USB 2.0 4 PORT INT/EXT DUAL HUB BAY] -- Genesys Chipset -- idVendor=05e3, idProduct=0607 -- low speed devices worked, but there are strange USB failures when X session started. High speed devices such as hard drives had failures.<br />
<br />
== USB Remotes ==<br />
* ATI Remote Wonder (X10 Wireless Technology, Inc. X10 Receiver) — ID 0bc7:0004 — appears as a joystick-like 2 button mouse and a 0-9 keypad without drivers on console and X.<br />
<br />
* [http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B005DKZTMG/ref=oh_details_o02_s00_i00 Logitech Wireless Touch Keyboard K400 with Built-In Multi-Touch Touchpad (920-003070)] - keyboard and touchpad work. Have not verified multi-touch features.<br />
<br />
* [http://www.ipazzport.com/02A.html iPazzport] mini 2.4&nbsp;GHz wireless keyboard and touchpad. <br />
<br />
* [http://www.ortek.com/html/pdt_view.asp?area=46&cat=152&sn=76 PKB 1800] Wireless Smart Pad ad Mini Keyboard. The pad works as a mouse, but not multi touch features. The keyboard works.<br />
<br />
* [http://www.riitek.com/product_Info.asp?id=56 Riitek RT-MWK01] '''Rii''' Wireless 2.4&nbsp;GHz Keyboard-mouse Combo, also known as [http://www.digicom.it/digisit/prodotti.nsf/itprodottiidx/WKEYPE01 Digicom WKEYPE01], and [http://www.verkkokauppa.com/fi/product/52783 Prodige Nanox]. Working perfectly, just plug & play.<br />
<br />
* [https://www.google.com/search?q=tranksung+TS-Y150 Tranksung TS-Y150] USB RF Keyboard and air mouse (B)<br />
<br />
* [http://www.tigerdirect.com/applications/SearchTools/item-details.asp?EdpNo=6753651&CatId=3680# Exo Ultra U12-41310 Mini Keyboard] Bluetooth Adapter, Touchpad, Laser Pointer, Presentation & Multimedia Controls work perfectly, but it needs a little love and config for make it work.[https://github.com/thunderbirdtr/rs-pi-exo-keyboard Exo Installer script]<br />
<br />
== USB Keyboards ==<br />
USB keyboards that present themselves as a standard HID (Human Interface Device) device should work. '''Please be aware that some of these keyboards were probably used with a powered hub'''<br />
=== Working USB Keyboards ===<br />
The following is a list of specific keyboards known to work and which appear to work fault-free.<br />
<br />
* '''A4 Tech'''<br />
** Model KL-5 USB Keyboard, 20&nbsp;mA.<br />
<br />
* '''ABS'''<br />
** M1 Heavy Duty Professional Gaming Mechanical Keyboard (B)<br />
<br />
* '''Action Star'''<br />
** ACK-5010U Mini Keyboard And Mouse<br />
<br />
* '''Accuratus'''<br />
** KYB-Toughball-HI<br />
<br />
* '''Acer'''<br />
** KG-0917 Wireless Keyboard And Mouse Bundle (B)<br />
** KU-0906 Compact Keyboard (B) (Also known as Genius LuxeMate i200 Keyboard)<br />
** SK-9625 Multimedia Keyboard (B) (multimedia functions not tested)<br />
<br />
* '''Adesso'''<br />
** [http://ergoprise.com/product_images/j/699/ADP-PU21_big__14173_zoom.jpg PS/2 to USB Adapter] ADP-PU21, 100&nbsp;mA (tested only with keyboards) Any PS/2 keyboard will work only if it will work with a reduced operating voltage.<br />
** Model AKB-410UB. Keyboard with Touchpad.<br />
<br />
* '''Apple''' (Apple keyboards that have USB ports require an external powered hub to work, and do not work on the Raspberry Pi directly! Note: Apple keyboard works fine using the latest Raspberry Pi, even when connected directly (and with mouse connected))<br />
** [http://upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/thumb/e/ea/Apple_iMac_Keyboard_A1243.png/800px-Apple_iMac_Keyboard_A1243.png Apple Keyboard with Numeric Keypad (aluminium/wired) A1243]<br />
** [http://upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/8/81/Apple_Keyboard_A1242.jpg Apple Keyboard (aluminium/wired) A1242]<br />
<br />
* '''Asda'''<br />
** Basic Wired Keyboard HK2026 (B)<br />
** Basic Wired Keyboard HK3014<br />
*** (Please note when I put this keyboard through Newlink USB hub, it didn't work as expected)<br />
** Premium Wireless Keyboard (white keys, silver back) HK8028<br />
** Wireless Multimedia Deskset (keyboard, mouse and USB dongle) Model: HKM8016B (Note: Shown on Asda Website as HK8016B) (B)<br />
<br />
* '''Asus'''<br />
** KS-631U (comes with Asus Vento KM-63 keyboard/mouse set, not using powered hub) (B)<br />
<br />
* '''Banbridge'''<br />
** [http://www.kurpirkti.lt/imagesi/infodb/org_d69dbd9707af8df77eae6e005f681a9a/BANDRIDGE-USB-2X-PS-2-ADAPTER.jpg PS/2 to USB Banbridge CPA4002 Adapter] (B) (Tested with Logitech C-SF17 Cordless Desktop Express)<br />
<br />
* '''BTC - Behavior Tech Computer Corp.'''<br />
** Wired Portable Keyboard Model 6100 US (86+9 keys)<br />
*** Works with or without a powered hub<br />
** Wireless Multimedia Keyboard with build in pointer/mouse Model 9029URF III (86+17 keys) (B)<br />
** [http://www.btc.com.tw/english/2-7-07keyboard.htm Wired Multimedia keyboard 6311U/6310U] - rated at 5&nbsp;V/100&nbsp;mA, works directly<br />
<br />
* '''Bush'''<br />
** Wired Slimline Keyboard KU-0833<br />
*** This does not require a USB hub in order to work with the Raspberry Pi<br />
*** In the UK, it is available from Argos for £9.99<br />
<br />
* '''Cerulian''' <br />
** Mini wireless keyboard and mouse deskset (B)<br />
<br />
* '''CD Training''' <br />
** [http://www.cd-training.fr/?&feed=product&product_id=308 Wireless Combo Keyboard and Mouse (SolClavGlos)]<br />
<br />
* '''Cherry'''<br />
** CyMotion Master Linux (B)<br />
** RS 6000 USB ON<br />
** G84-4100PTMUS (B) (Compact keyboard. Rated 100&nbsp;mA. Works directly in Raspberry Pi)<br />
<br />
* '''Compaq'''<br />
** Compaq Internet Keyboard KU-9978 (049f:000e). Rated 5&nbsp;V 100&nbsp;mA. Works directly connected to Raspberry Pi<br />
<br />
* '''Das Keyboard'''<br />
** Model S Professional Keyboard (Built in USB hub not tested) (B)<br />
** Model S Ultimate Keyboard (Built in USB hub working) (B)<br />
<br />
* '''Dell'''<br />
** SK-8115 (B) (Rated 100&nbsp;mA. Works directly in Raspberry Pi)<br />
** L100 (B)<br />
** RT7D40 (100&nbsp;mA. Works directly in Raspberry Pi)<br />
** RT7D50 (75&nbsp;mA) (run "sudo dpkg-reconfigure keyboard-configuration")<br />
** KB1421 (100&nbsp;mA)<br />
** KB2521 (100&nbsp;mA)<br />
** KB212-B (Works directly in Raspberry Pi, without powered hub)<br />
** 1HF2Y (Works directly in Raspberry Pi)<br />
** Bluetooth Wireless Keyboard and Mouse Bundle (B), Bluetooth USB dongle C-UV35 (Rated 500&nbsp;mA, but it works great), Keyboard Y-RAQ-DEL2, Mouse M-RBB-DEL4<br />
<br />
* '''Delux'''<br />
** K8050<br />
<br />
* '''Digicom'''<br />
** WKEYPE01 Wireless 2.4&nbsp;GHz Keyboard-mouse Combo, also known as [http://www.riitek.com/product_Info.asp?id=56 Riitek RT-MWK01] and [http://www.verkkokauppa.com/fi/product/52783 Prodige Nanox]<br />
<br />
* '''Dynex'''<br />
** DX_-WKBD (60&nbsp;mA) (B)<br />
** DX_-WKBDSL (Hot keys not yet tested with Debian) (tested through non-powered 3 dongle USB hub) (B)<br />
<br />
* '''EAPPLY'''<br />
** EBO-013 Wireless 2.4&nbsp;GHz compact keyboard with touchpad. Rated <40&nbsp;mA works directly from Raspberry Pi. eBay ref 260962010276 from Shenzen, China.<br />
<br />
* '''Emprex'''<br />
** Wireless Media Control Keyboard With Trackball 9039ARF III (Media functions untested)<br />
<br />
* '''Fujitsu Siemens''' <br />
** KB SC USB UK (!)<br />
** KB910 USB, with led light on the highest level (B)<br />
** KB400 USB US<br />
<br />
* '''GE''' <br />
** 98139 Rev.K1 (Power Keyboard) (lsusb shows it as "0b38:0010 Gear Head 107-Key Keyboard") - works without a hub (i.e. directly connected) (B)<br />
<br />
* '''Gear Head''' <br />
** KB3700TP (USB Mini Smart Touch Touchpad Keyboard) (B)<br />
** KB3800TP (Wireless Touch Mini Touchpad Keyboard with Smart Touch) (B)<br />
*** Works when plugged directly into Raspberry Pi, did not work with powered hub (could be a hub issue)<br />
** KB3800TPW (Windows Smart Touch Wireless Keyboard with Touchpad) (B)RASPBMC supported >> also see Problem USB Keyboards<br />
** KB4950TPW (Wireless Touch II Touchpad Keyboard) (B)<br />
** KB1500U (USB Mini Keyboard) (B)<br />
** KB5150 (2.4&nbsp;GHz wireless keyboard/mouse Combo) (B)<br />
*** Works well with a powered hub<br />
<br />
* '''Generic'''<br />
** [http://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B00A8D9ZPA/ref=oh_details_o06_s00_i00 AK-601] Wireless Mini-keyboard and Trackball. Works well as a handheld device, the wireless dongle does not appear to draw excessive current. However, since its USB charging port requires 5V 300mA it does need to be recharged from a netbook/laptop USB port or via a (spare) USB charger.<br />
<br />
* '''Genius'''<br />
** Ergomedia 700 (GK-04008/C) used without Hub<br />
** KB-06XE (K639) (B)<br />
** LuxeMate i200 (GK-090017; not tested with Hub)<br />
** Slimstar 8000 wireless keyboard<br />
<br />
* '''Gigabyte'''<br />
** GK-KM7580 2.4&nbsp;GHz Wireless Multimedia Keyboard & Mouse<br />
<br />
* '''HP'''<br />
** KG-1061<br />
** KG-0851 Wireless Keyboard and Mouse<br />
** KU-0316 (B)<br />
** LV290AA#ABA Wireless Keyboard and Mouse<br />
** PR1101U (available from Sainsbury's in the UK, £8, July 2012)<br />
** SK-2880<br />
<br />
* '''Hyundai'''<br />
** HY-K201<br />
<br />
* '''iConcepts'''<br />
** 2.4&nbsp;GHz Wireless Keyboard and Optical Mouse Model 62550<br />
*** (saves a USB port since keyboard and mouse share one transceiver, $14.99 at Fry's Electronics)<br />
<br />
* '''Imation''' <br />
** KBD-702 Multi-media Wired Keyboard<br />
*** (works after the firmware update via [https://github.com/Hexxeh/rpi-update rpi-update] as of 06/27/2012)<br />
<br />
* '''IOGEAR'''<br />
** IOGEAR GKM561R Wireless HTPC Multimedia Keyboard with Trackball<br />
** IOGEAR GKM681R 2.4&nbsp;GHz Wireless Compact Keyboard with Optical Trackball and Scroll Wheel<br />
<br />
* '''iPazzPort'''<br />
<br />
* '''i.t.works'''<br />
** KC04 (direct and by USB hub)<br />
** KC Silicone (only tested directly)<br />
<br />
* '''Jenkins'''<br />
** Jenkins Wireless Desktop Set Blue (B)<br />
<br />
* '''KeySonic'''<br />
** ACK-540RF (Wireless USB keyboard with built-in trackpad); works fine on Debian Squeeze plugged directly into Raspberry Pi. Also works with Raspbmc with powered hub.<br />
** ACK-540RF+ (UK) Wi-Fi keyboard incl. touchpad with USB Wi-Fi dongle works fb with on model B/Raspbian/Wheezy via powered hub<br />
** ACK-3700C<br />
** ACK-340U+(DE)<br />
** ACK-3400U (UK) mini keyboard<br />
** ACK-612RF (GER) Wireless Mini-Keyboard; works fine with its wireless adpater plugged directly into Raspberry Pi<br />
<br />
* '''Labtec'''<br />
** [http://www.labtec.com/index.cfm/gear/details/EUR/EN,crid=28,contentid=692| Ultra-flat Keyboard]<br />
<br />
* '''Laptopmate'''<br />
** AK-98UNTN7-UBRII Laptopmate RII Touch N7 Mini Wireless Keyboard with touchpad<br />
<br />
* '''LC-Power<br />
** K1000BMW (lsusb: ID 1241:f767 Belkin; dmesg: HOLTEK Wireless 2.4&nbsp;GHz Trackball Keyboard) tested with Debian 6.0.4<br />
<br />
* '''Lenovo'''<br />
** SK-8825 UK (B)<br />
** Lenovo Enhanced Multimedia Remote with backlit keyboard N5902 (US)<br />
** Lenovo Mini Wireless Keyboard N5901 (US)<br />
<br />
* '''Lindy'''<br />
** 21840 (Wireless RF 2.4&nbsp;GHz Micro Keyboard with built-in optical touchpad/trackpad, USB); works fine on model B/Raspbian/Wheezy - the supplied Lindy USB nano dongle transceiver plugged directly into Raspberry Pi USB port.<br />
<br />
* '''Logik'''<br />
** Ultra slim keyboard LKBWSL11 (B) >> '''This is also listed under Problem USB Keyboards?'''<br />
** LK212(R, B, P, V, O at the end represents the colour ) Wireless Keyboard paired with wireless receiver<br />
<br />
* '''Logitech'''<br />
** Comfort Wave 450, labeled 100&nbsp;mA (M/N Y-U0001, P/N 820-001725, PID SC951C40001)<br />
** diNovo Mini wireless keyboard with media controls and clickpad 920-000586 (B)<br />
** diNovo Edge Keyboard, Windows edition, built-in TouchDisc track-pad, Bluetooth with USB mini-receiver 967685-0403 (B)<br />
*** older model 867777-0403 may need '''dwc_otg.speed=1''' added to cmdline.txt to avoid dropped/repeated keys and dropped mousepad taps/clicks (B)<br />
**** after Raspbian dist-upgrade about 12/12/12, if '''/lib/udev/rules.d/97-bluetooth-hid2hci.rules''' exists and di Novo Edge fails to respond, edit tail of line after "# Logitech devices" in that file from '''c71['''34'''bc]''' to '''c71[bc]''' to ignore c713 and c714 (do not wordwrap long line), then it works fine<br />
** Wii wireless keyboard KG-0802 (!)<br />
** C-BG17-Dual Wireless keyboard and mouse with wired USB receiver (B)<br />
** Deluxe 250 Keyboard<br />
** Internet 350 (M/N 967740-0403)<br />
** Internet Navigator Keyboard<br />
** MK120 wired keyboard and mouse<br />
** MK220 wireless keyboard and mouse<br />
** MK250 wireless keyboard and mouse (no hub needed)<br />
** MK260 wireless keyboard and mouse (no hub needed)<br />
** MK300 wireless keyboard and mouse<br />
** MK320 wireless keyboard and mouse [http://www.amazon.co.uk/Logitech-920-002885-MK320-Wireless-Desktop/dp/B003STDQYW/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1339166178&sr=8-3]<br />
** MK350 wireless keyboard (using Unifying receiver)<br />
** MK520 wireless keyboard and mouse<br />
** MK550 wireless keyboard and mouse (B)<br />
** MX3200 wireless keyboard and mouse (B)<br />
** MX5000 Bluetooth keyboard and mouse (B) The Logitech Bluetooth dongle also does proprietary wireless so it works without Bluetooth drivers.<br />
** EX100 Cordless Desktop, Wireless Keyboard and Mouse (B)<br />
** EX110 Cordless Desktop, wireless keyboard and mouse (B)<br />
** C-SF17 Cordless Desktop Express, Wireless Keyboard and Mouse (B) PS/2 Interface. Tested using [http://www.kurpirkti.lt/imagesi/infodb/org_d69dbd9707af8df77eae6e005f681a9a/BANDRIDGE-USB-2X-PS-2-ADAPTER.jpg PS/2 to USB Banbridge CPA4002 Adapter]<br />
** K120 Keyboard (B)<br />
** K200 Keyboard (B)<br />
** K230 Wireless Keyboard (Unifying receiver, no powered hub) (B)<br />
** K340 Wireless Keyboard (Unifying receiver, no powered hub) (B)<br />
** K350 Wireless Keyboard (B)<br />
** K400 wireless keyboard with touchpad - also listed under "problematic". Works for weeks with openelec and Raspbian without any problems. Worked out of the box - the on/off switch needs to be "on" for it to function correctly. Highly recommended if you are "working from the sofa". <br />+1 on this, works out of the box with 2012-10-28-wheezy, no powered hub.<br />
** K520 Keyboard (B)<br />
** K700 Wireless Keyboard with Touchpad and unifying receiver<br />
** K750 Wireless Solar Keyboard (B) (Mac version works too. (B) )<br />
** LX 710 - works fine with receiver plugged directly into the Raspberry Pi (accompanying mouse works fine too).<br />
** S510 wireless keyboard and mouse (B)<br />
** Ultra-Flat Keyboard (M/N Y-BP62A P/N 820-000245 PID SY126UK)labelled 100&nbsp;mA. OK direct into Model B Raspberry Pi.<br />
** G19 Gaming Keyboard, works fine with no external power. Illumination with external power. Powered hum in back of keyboard works too.<br />
** G15 Gaming keyboard, as long as you press the backlight button twice to turn off the backlight (it says below it dosen't work with backlight on.<br />
** V470 Bluetooth Laser Mouse<br />
<br />
''Keyboards and mice also together with Unifying receiver'' <br />
<br />
* '''macally'''<br />
**macally iKey slim (IKEY5V2)<br />
<br />
* '''Microsoft''' <br />
**Microsoft Comfort Curve Keyboard 2000<br />
**Microsoft Comfort Curve Keyboard 3000 for Business<br />
**Microsoft Digital Media Pro Keyboard Model: 1031 (Debian 13-Apr-2012)<br />
**Microsoft Natural Ergonomic Keyboard 4000 (B) (Debian "Wheezy" beta 18-June-2012)<br />
**Microsoft Wired Keyboard 600 Model 1366 (Debian 28-May-2012 on Production Model B)<br />
**Microsoft Wireless Desktop 700 Keyboard v2.0 (Raspbian Pisces image 08-June-2012 on Production Model B)<br />
**Microsoft Wireless Photo Keyboard (Model 1027) Unifying receiver, no hub<br />
**Microsoft Wireless Natural Multimedia Keyboard (Raspbian Pisces 08-July-2012) (B)<br />
**Microsoft Windows 2000 Keyboard (KB-USBK110610)<br />
**[https://www.microsoft.com/hardware/en-us/p/wired-keyboard-600/ANB-00001 Microsoft Wired Keyboard 600]. The keyboard is rated at 5&nbsp;V/100&nbsp;mA (Wheezy 5-Sept-2012)<br />
<br />
* '''Mikomi''' <br />
** Wireless Deskset KM80545 Keyboard and mouse (it works, but the range is terrible less than a metre) (B)<br />
<br />
* '''Monoprice'''<br />
** [http://www.monoprice.com/products/product.asp?c_id=104&cp_id=10404&cs_id=1040401&p_id=6854&seq=1&format=2|Monoprice PS/2 To USB Adapter] Directly and through an unpowered hub with a USB mouse plugged in.<br />
<br />
* '''Motorola'''<br />
<br />
** Bluetooth wireless ultra slim keyboard and mouse combo (sold as for the "Atrix" phone) work in combination with the Technika Bluetooth adaptor listed below<br />
<br />
* '''Novatech'''<br />
** [http://www.novatech.co.uk/products/peripherals/desktopkits/nov-wcombo.html|Novatech Wireless Combo - Keyboard & Mouse, Nano adapter] (B)<br />
<br />
* '''ONN'''<br />
**ONN Keyboard Stock No: ONA11HO089 (from Walmart). Seems to work fine, even without a hub.<br />
**ONN Keyboard Stock No: ONA11HO087 (from Walmart). Combination keyboard and mouse package with nano receiver. Be sure to configure keyboard layout.<br />
<br />
* '''Ortek'''<br />
** Ortek Technology, Inc. [http://www.ortek.com/html/pdt_view.asp?area=46&cat=150&sn=79 WKB-2000S] Wireless Keyboard with Touchpad works fine on Raspbian Wheezy and Raspbmc. Wireless USB receiver (device ID 05a4:2000) is recognised automatically. Connected directly to Raspberry Pi USB port, no powered hub used.<br />
<br />
* '''Perixx''' <br />
**Periboard 716 Wireless Ultra-Slim Keyboard with Touchpad (Debian 07-Jun-2012 on Production Model B)<br />
** PERIBOARD-502 wired keyboard inc built in touchpad (model B/Raspbian Wheezy)<br />
** Periduo-707 Plus (Wireless Keyboard and Mouse) works fine ''most'' of the time. Does suffer from dropouts and glitches though. Usual "drawing too much power from USB" problems show up as well - dropped key presses or constant autorepeats. These can be cured by pulling out and reinserting the dongle in the USB socket. The keyboard sometimes hangs after power on when used with my laptop - it seems to need 30 seconds of non-use before it works fine. Again, remove and insert the dongle cures it. Works fine vi my Benq monitor's USB Hub.<br />
<br />
* '''Philips''' <br />
**Wired Multimedia Keyboard SPK3700BC/97 (Debian 19-Apr-2012 on Production Model B)<br />
<br />
* '''Prodige'''<br />
**Nanox Wireless 2.4&nbsp;GHz Keyboard-mouse Combo, also known as [http://www.riitek.com/product_Info.asp?id=56 Riitek RT-MWK01] and [http://www.digicom.it/digisit/prodotti.nsf/itprodottiidx/WKEYPE01 Digicom WKEYPE01]<br />
<br />
* '''Rapoo'''<br />
**Rapoo E9080 Wireless Ultra-Slim Keyboard with Touchpad<br />
**Rapoo Wireless Multi-media Touchpad Keyboard E2700 [http://www.rapoo.com/showdetails.aspx?P_No=E2700]<br />
**Rapoo Ultra-Slim Wireless Multimedia Keyboard and Mouse E9060 (works proper on powered USB Hub)<br />
<br />
*'''Riitek'''<br />
**RT-MWK03 mini wireless keyboard & trackpad<br />
**RT-MWK02+ mini Bluetooth keyboard & trackpad. Followed instructions from this page: [http://www.ctheroux.com/2012/08/a-step-by-step-guide-to-setup-a-bluetooth-keyboard-and-mouse-on-the-raspberry-pi/] and it worked, connection persists across reboots, no problem with either builtin USB or powered USB hub.<br />
**RT-MWK01 mini wireless 2.4&nbsp;GHz Keyboard-mouse Combo, also known as [http://www.digicom.it/digisit/prodotti.nsf/itprodottiidx/WKEYPE01 Digicom WKEYPE01], and [http://www.verkkokauppa.com/fi/product/52783 Prodige Nanox]<br />
<br />
*'''Rosewill'''<br />
** RK-200 Standard Keyboard<br />
<br />
*'''Saitek'''<br />
** Eclipse II Backlit Keyboard PK02AU (B)<br />
** Eclipse Backlit Keyboard PZ30AV (B) - works fine when connected directly to Raspberry Pi rev.1 and 2 USB port. No powered hub used.<br />
** Expression Keyboard (US) <br />
** Cyborg V.5 (B)<br />
<br />
*'''SelecLine'''<br />
** WK11P & WM11P-SP-PP. Keyboard and mouse set. (B)<br />
<br />
*'''SIIG'''<br />
** SIIG Wireless Multi-Touchpad Mini Keyboard 02-1286A v1.0 (B)<br />
<br />
*'''Silvercrest'''<br />
** MTS2219 Wireless Keyboard and mouse set. Powered hub NOT used. (B) <br />
<br />
*'''SolidTek'''<br />
** Solid Tek KB-P3100BU ASK-3100U. <br />
<br />
*'''Sony'''<br />
** Keyboard for PlayStation 2 (PS2) Linux. Works without powered hub with 5&nbsp;V 1&nbsp;A supply, requires manual keyboard remapping with Debian Squeeze to USA 101-key layout.<br />
<br />
* '''SteelSeries'''<br />
** Merc keyboard (B)<br />
<br />
* '''Sun Microsystems'''<br />
** Model: Type 7, SUN PN: 320-1348-02 (Danish key layout)<br />
** Model: Type 6, SUN PN: 320-1279-01 (Danish key layout)<br />
<br />
* '''Sweex'''<br />
** [http://www.sweex.com/en/assortiment/input/keyboards/KB060UK/ KB060UK] Wired Multimedia Keyboard<br />
<br />
* '''Technika'''<br />
** WKEY03 (B)<br />
** TKD-211<br />
<br />
* '''Tesco'''<br />
** Value Keyboard VK109 (B)<br />
** Multimedia K211 Wired Keyboard (B)<br />
<br />
*'''The Pi Hut'''<br />
** Super Slim Apple Style Keyboard (from [http://thepihut.com/products/usb-keyboard-for-the-raspberry-pi The Pi Hut's Raspberry Pi Store])<br />
** Super Slim Apple Style Keyboard Set (Keyboard & Mouse) (from [http://thepihut.com/products/usb-keyboard-mouse-bundle-for-the-raspberry-pi The Pi Hut's Raspberry Pi Store])<br />
<br />
* '''Trust'''<br />
** Trust 17585 Wireless Deskset (mouse and keyboard) (17585-02) No hub needed.<br />
** Trust 17916 Compact Wireless Entertainment Keyboard http://www.trust.com/products/product.aspx?artnr=17916 (B)<br />
** Trust ClassicLine Keyboard http://trust.com/17184 <br />
** Trust Camiva MultiMedia Keyboard http://trust.com/products/product.aspx?artnr=16087<br />
** Trust Convex Keyboard http://trust.com/products/product.aspx?artnr=17603 tested Debian 6-19-04-2012 and archlinuxarm-13-06-2012 (B)<br />
<br />
* '''Unbranded'''<br />
** AK-601 Wireless Mini Keyboard and Trackball (with laser pointer) - sourced from eBay Chinese seller<br />
<br />
* '''Unicomp'''<br />
** USB Endurapro - keyboard and trackpoint work perfectly from powered hub<br />
<br />
* '''Q-Connect'''<br />
** AK-808 (B)<br />
<br />
* '''Xenta'''<br />
** 2.4&nbsp;GHz Wireless Multimedia Entertainment Keyboard with Touchpad (B)<br />
** Mini Multimedia Keyboard (Model no.: 808M) (B)<br />
<br />
===Problem USB Keyboards===<br />
<br />
Note that generally PS/2 keyboards with an USB adapter will not work directly on a Raspberry Pi port, due to the fact that PS/2 keyboards are designed for normal 5&nbsp;V +-5% range, while USB keyboards must be designed to work with 4.4 Volt, and generally USB devices on the Raspberry Pi may receive less than 4.75 Volt. PS/2 + USB adapter keyboards might work behind a powered hub, which does provide the full 5.0&nbsp;V. Some of these keyboards work when running the latest Raspbian, but not when using the overclocked XBMC version of Raspbmc, probably due to the overclocking drawing more power away from the rest of the support system devices.<br />
<br />
* '''A4 Tech'''<br />
** Model GL-6 USB Keyboard, 20&nbsp;mA. Part of wireless keyboard/mouse bundle GL-6630 (GL-6 + G7-630 + RN-10B) - suffers from USB flakeyness. Even on a powered hub. No problems on other computers I have tested it with.<br />
* '''Accuratus'''<br />
** Accuratus KYBAC100-101USBBLK causes kernel panic (rated 100&nbsp;mA). Tested with 1000&nbsp;mA cheap unbranded and Nokia 1200&nbsp;mA power adaptors.<br />
* '''Apple'''<br />
** [http://www.powerbookmedic.com/xcart1/images/D/apple-keyboard.jpg Apple Keyboard (109 keys) A1048]. Draws too much power and does not seem to work properly when plugged into a powered hub. <br />
*'''Argos'''<br />
** Argos Value Wired Keyboard causes kernel panic<br />
* '''Choidy'''<br />
** Identifiers from usb-devices: Vendor=1a2c ProdID=0002 Rev=01.10 Product=USB Keykoard (yes, 'Keykoard') causes kernel panic<br />
* '''Cit''' <br />
** KB-1807UB Causes kernel panic (rated <200&nbsp;mA)<br />
* '''Dell'''<br />
** SK-8135 (B) (Rated 1.5&nbsp;A. Takes too much power from Raspberry Pi even when not used as USB hub. Symptom = repeated keystrokes)<br />
** SK-8115 causes kernel panic (rated 100&nbsp;mA) Debian 6-19-04-2012 (B)<br />
** Y-U0003-DEL5 Sticky / Non-responsive keys<br />
** Wireless Trackball Keyboard with trackball - problem sticky keys definitely not power issue as the dongle works even at 3V<br />
* '''Gear Head'''<br />
** KB2300U - Causes kernel panic (B)<br />
** KB3800TPW - Wireless Touch Touchpad Keyboard - Wireless dongle disrupts USB and ethernet whether direct or on powered hub, no keyboard/mousepad response in Raspbian (logged in syslog) or Raspbmc (no logs written)(B)<br />
* '''GMYLE'''<br />
** Wired USB Slim Chocolate Multimedia Media Typing Keyboard With 3 USB Port hub (B) - Kernel Panic on startup if plugged in. If plugged in at login prompt then freeze. [http://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B0067EC3GW/]<br />
* '''Inland''' <br />
** Inland USB Keyboard Model #70010<br />
* '''Jeway'''<br />
** JK-8170 "The Hunter" - causes kernel oops (Debian6-19-04-2012) (B)<br />
* '''Labtec'''<br />
** ultra-flat wireless desktop USB - Keyboard has 'sticky' keys. Tested both debian6-19-04-2012 and archlinuxarm-13-06-2012 (B)<br />
* '''Logik'''<br />
** Wired Multimedia Keyboard Model: LKBWMM11 - causes kernel panic (on Debian 190412 distro) (B)<br />
** Wired Ultra Slim Keyboard Model: LKBWSL11 - causes USB power issues. Not reliable. Causes other USB devices to fail (B) >> '''This is also listed under Working USB Keyboards??'''<br />
* '''Logitech'''<br />
** Logitech Illuminated Keyboard (unstable; not working with led light on; tested both US and NO layouts with both Apple iPad 2 and Asus TF-101 USB chargers)<br />
** G110 Gaming Keyboard - only works with illumination off, otherwise unresponsive. Once failed it needs reconnecting before another attempt. (B)<br />
** G15 Gaming Keyboard - LCD and key backlights flicker, 95% unresponsive to typing. I don't know of a way to turn the illumination off. (B)<br />
** K360 Wireless Keyboard - Occasional sticky keys. (B)<br />
** MK 260 Wireless Keyboard - Occasional sticky keys. (B)<br />
** K400 wireless keyboard with touchpad (completely non-functional on debian6-19-04-2012)<br />
** G510 Gaming Keyboard - lagging or unresponsive keys.<br />
** MX5500 wireless keyboard and mouse with USB Bluetooth reciever - Unstable, looses connection without prior notice<br />
** EX100 Cordless Desktop, wireless keyboard and mouse. Mouse and keyboard hangs every few minutes (with or without hub).<br />
* '''Microsoft''' <br />
** Wireless Desktop 800 - Keyboard has 'sticky' keys. (B)<br />
** Wireless Entertainment Keyboard - No key input recognized (possibly connectivity issue as pairing devices does not seem to work)<br />
** Wireless Optical Desktop 1000 - Keyboard has 'sticky' keys (B)<br />
** Wireless Keyboard 2000 - Keyboard has 'sticky' keys. (B)<br />
** Wireless Desktop 3000 - Keyboard has 'sticky' keys.<br />
** Arc wireless - Keyboard has 'sticky' keys. (B)<br />
** Sidewinder X4 - Keyboard has 'sticky' keys. (B)<br />
** Sidewinder X6 - Keyboard has 'sticky' keys. (B)<br />
** Wireless Comfort Keyboard 5000 - Keyboard has 'sticky' keys. (B)<br />
** Razer Reclusa - Keyboard has 'sticky' keys. (B rev 2.0)<br />
* '''Novatech'''<br />
** NOV-KEY2 - Causes kernel panic (B)<ref>http://www.raspberrypi.org/forum/troubleshooting/keyboard-creates-kernal-panic/page-2</ref><br />
* '''PC World Essentials'''<br />
** PKBW11 Wired Keyboard - no power to keyboard, no error messages on both Arch 29-04-2012 and Debian6-19-04-2012, the same Raspberry Pi works with Asda keyboard. Me too, but it caused a kernel panic -- tested on powered hub and direct.<br />
* '''Razer'''<br />
** Razer Tarantula gaming keyboard - sticky keys, could be power issue as is programmable with host powered USB hub and audio jacks.<br />
** Razer BlackWidow - Sticky keys, could be a power related issue due to illuminated logo (Blue LED).<br />
** Razer Arctosa - Sticky keys, most probably power related issue since it states it's rated at 5&nbsp;V 500&nbsp;mA. (B)<br />
* '''SIIG'''<br />
** Wireless Ultra Slim Multimedia Mini Keyboard JK-WR0612-S1 - Unresponsive and sticky keys.<br />
* '''Texet'''<br />
** MB-768B standard keyboard (Rated 5&nbsp;V 1.5&nbsp;A (!), so probably too much power drain. Kernel panic, Debian6-19-04-2012)<br />
* '''Trust''' <br />
** TRUST GXT 18 Gaming Keyboard - No power to keyboard, could be a driver issue - no error messages.<br />
* '''Unbranded'''<br />
** Compuparts<br />
** model no. HK-6106 (B) <ref>http://www.raspberrypi.org/forum/troubleshooting/keyboard-creates-kernal-panic/page-2</ref><br />
** LK-890 (Multimedia keyboard & Optical Mouse) - kernel panic on Debian Squeeze, ArchLinux and Qtonpi.<br />
* '''Verbatim'''<br />
** [http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B004LB5AKY/ref=oh_details_o00_s00_i02|Verbatim 97472 Mini Wireless Slim Keyboard and Mouse] - Keyboard has lagging, unresponsive and sticky keys issues. (Tested with and without powered USB hub.)<br />
* '''Wilkinsons / TEXET'''<br />
** Model MB-768B causes kernel panic on debian6-19-04-2012.<br />
* '''Xenta'''<br />
** HK-6106 - causes kernel panic (on Debian 190412 distro)(B)<br />
** Multimedia Wireless Keyboard and Mouse Set (Keyboard Model: HK3518B + Mouse Model HM3301) (B) - occasional sticky keys, and occasional complete lock-up<br />
<br />
== USB Mouse devices ==<br />
USB mouse devices that present themselves as a standard HID (Human Interface Device) device should work, however some hardware requires special drivers or additional software, usually only compatible with Windows operating systems. <br />
<br />
===Working USB Mouse Devices===<br />
The following is a list of specific mouse devices known to work and which appear to be fault-free.<br />
<br />
* '''A4Tech'''<br />
** OP-530NU Padless Wired Mouse<br />
<br />
* '''Apple'''<br />
** Apple Mighty Mouse (Model No. A1152): Works well with the exception of the scroll ball only transmitting vertical scrolling (This seems to be an issue of driver that was designed to support scroll wheels).<br />
<br />
* '''Asda'''<br />
** HM5058 (Smart Price) Wired Mouse<br />
** Wireless Multimedia Deskset (keyboard, mouse and USB dongle) Model: HKM8016B (Note: Shown on Asda Website as HK8016B) (B)<br />
<br />
* '''ASUS'''<br />
** MS-511U (comes with Asus Vento KM-63 keyboard/mouse combo) (B)<br />
** MG-0919 (wireless)<br />
<br />
* '''Belkin'''<br />
** F8E882-OPT (B)<br />
<br />
* '''Cellink'''<br />
** OPM-602 Small wireless optical mouse<br />
<br />
* '''Cerulian Technology'''<br />
** 3 Button Mini Mobile Blue Trace Mice - Model:N96JA<br />
<br />
* '''Dell'''<br />
** M-UVDEL1 (B)<br />
** MOC5UO (100&nbsp;mA)<br />
** M056U0A (B)<br />
** DZL-MS111-L (B) (100&nbsp;mA)<br />
** MS-111P (100&nbsp;mA)<br />
** Bluetooth Wireless Keyboard and Mouse Bundle (B), Bluetooth USB dongle C-UV35 (Rated 500&nbsp;mA, but it works great), Keyboard Y-RAQ-DEL2, Mouse M-RBB-DEL4<br />
<br />
* '''Dynex'''<br />
** DX-WMSE (100&nbsp;mA) (B)<br />
<br />
* '''Fellowes'''<br />
** 99928 USB Micro Track Ball (works without a hub, directly plugged in) (B)<br />
<br />
* '''Filand'''<br />
** OP-102i Mini Optical Mouse<br />
<br />
* '''Genius'''<br />
** GM-04003A (B)<br />
** Slimstar 8000 wireless mouse (Can be intermitent. Mouse pointer sometimes is irratic.)<br />
** Traveler 515 Laser<br />
<br />
* '''HP'''<br />
** MN-UAE96 (The basic stock HP wired mouse)(B)<br />
<br />
* '''iConcepts'''<br />
** 2.4&nbsp;GHz Wireless Keyboard and Optical Mouse Model 62550<br />
*** (saves a USB port since keyboard and mouse share one transceiver, $14.99 at Fry's Electronics)<br />
<br />
* '''Jenkins'''<br />
** Jenkins Wireless Desktop Set Blue (B)<br />
<br />
* '''Kensington'''<br />
** Kensington Expert Mouse Trackball K64325<br />
** Kensington Expert Mouse "Slimblade" K72327US<br />
<br />
* '''Labtec'''<br />
** Corded Laser Glow Mouse 1600, rated 5&nbsp;V 100&nbsp;mA (P/N 810-000819, M/N M-UAZ149, PID GT83401)<br />
<br />
* '''Lenovo'''<br />
** Wired Optical Mouse Model: MO28UOL<br />
<br />
* '''Logik'''<br />
** Wired Optical Glow Mouse Model: LGGMO10. (B)<br />
<br />
* '''Logitech'''<br />
** Anywhere MX Wireless Mouse - works fine with same unifying receiver as K400 keyboard/mousepad (quake3 is easier w/mouse than mousepad)<br />
** B105 Mouse for Laptops (OEM)<br />
** Cordless Pilot Optical Mouse M/N M-RR95 with Cordless Mouse Receiver M/N C-BA4-MSE<br />
** G5 Logitech Gaming Mouse (B)<br />
** G5v2 Logitech Gaming Mouse (B)<br />
** G500 Logitech Gaming Mouse (B)<br />
** G700 Logitech Wireless Gaming Mouse (B)<br />
** LX-700 Cordless Desktop Receiver (B)<br />
** LX 710 Wireless Mouse - works fine with receiver plugged directly into Raspberry Pi (accompanying keyboard works fine too).<br />
** M90 optical mouse<br />
** M185 Wireless Mouse (B)<br />
** M210 (part of the MK260 set) (B)<br />
** M305 Wireless Mouse<br />
** M310 Cordless Mouse<br />
** M325 Wireless Mouse<br />
** M505 USB wireless laser, model no: 910-001324 (B)<br />
** M510 Wireless Mouse (B)<br />
** M705 Marathon Mouse (Unifying receiver, no powered hub) (B)<br />
** M-BD58 Wheel Mouse (B)<br />
** M-BJ58/M-BJ69 Optical Wheel Mouse (B)<br />
** M-BJ79 (B)<br />
** M-BT96a Optical Mouse<br />
** MX320/MX400 laser mouse (B)<br />
** MX518 Optical wheel mouse (B)<br />
** Optical USB Mouse (M/N 931643-0403)<br />
** Performance Mouse MX (B)<br />
** MX Revolution (B) (Debian "Wheezy" beta 18-June-2012)<br />
** VX Nano Cordless Laser Mouse for Notebooks<br />
** Wheel Mouse (M/N BJ58)<br />
<br />
* '''Medion'''<br />
** Mini mouse Model M101-CBJ P/N 40016632 S/N 7BFSA00003445 rated 5&nbsp;V 100&nbsp;mA. Works fb on model B with Raspbian Wheezy<br />
<br />
* '''Microsoft''' <br />
** Comfort Curve Mouse 3000 for Business<br />
** Comfort Mouse 6000 (works when directly connected to Raspberry Pi (B). Does not work when connected through USB Hub (mouse pointer intermittent).<br />
** Compact optical mouse 500 V2.0 (B)<br />
** Wheel Optical Mouse (wheel and additional buttons not tested) (B)<br />
** Microsoft Intellimouse Optical Mouse<br />
** Microsoft Wireless Laser Mouse 8000<br />
** Microsoft Wireless Mobile Mouse 1000<br />
** Microsoft Wireless Mobile Mouse 3500<br />
** Microsoft Wireless Mobile Mouse 4000<br />
** Microsoft Wireless Mouse 700 v2.0<br />
** Microsoft Comfort Mouse 4500<br />
** Wireless IntelliMouse Explorer 2.0 (unifying receiver, no hub)<br />
<br />
* '''Novatech'''<br />
** [http://www.novatech.co.uk/products/peripherals/miceandtrackballs/nov-mouser.html|Novatech M1 USB Mouse - Wired](B)<br />
** [http://www.novatech.co.uk/products/peripherals/miceandtrackballs/nov-dl10.html|Novatech DL10 Wireless Mouse] (B)<br />
<br />
* '''Perixx'''<br />
** PERIMICE-210 U Red (Part No.R1J) <br />
<br />
* '''Razer'''<br />
** Boomslang Collectors Edition 2007 (B)<br />
<br />
* '''Rosewill'''<br />
** Rosewill RM-C2U<br />
<br />
* '''Saitek'''<br />
** Notebook Optical Mouse (PM46)<br />
<br />
* '''Samsung'''<br />
** Samsung model:AA-SM3PCPB USB Optical Mouse (draws 50&nbsp;mA) <br />
<br />
* '''Sun microsystems'''<br />
** Model: FID-638 , SunPN: 371-0788-01<br />
<br />
* '''Sweex'''<br />
** [http://www.sweex.com/en/assortiment/input/optical-mice/MI015/ MI015]<br />
<br />
* '''Swiftpoint'''<br />
** [http://http://www.americas.futuremouse.com/] Swiftpoint Mini Wireless Optical Mouse. Does not require any special drivers. Haven't confirmed if charging the mouse requires a powered USB hub or not.<br />
<br />
* '''Targus'''<br />
** AKM02UK (Associated keyboard not checked)<br />
** AMU2701EUK (B)<br />
<br />
* '''Technika'''<br />
** TKOPTM2 (B)<br />
**TKD-211<br />
**TKNM110<br />
<br />
* '''Tesco'''<br />
** Wired optical mouse M211 (B)<br />
<br />
*'''The Pi Hut'''<br />
** USB Mouse for Raspberry Pi (from [http://thepihut.com/products/usb-mouse-for-the-raspberry-pi The Pi Hut's Raspberry Pi Store])<br />
** Super Slim Keyboard & Mouse Set (from [http://thepihut.com/products/usb-keyboard-mouse-bundle-for-the-raspberry-pi The Pi Hut's Raspberry Pi Store])<br />
<br />
* '''Trust'''<br />
** Model 15313 - large, 5-button wirless mouse<br />
** Model 15349 - small, wireless notebook mouse - wireless dongle turns mouse off when "parked" in its base<br />
** Trust Nanou Wireless Micro Mouse http://trust.com/products/product.aspx?artnr=17087<br />
<br />
* '''Verbatiam'''<br />
**Mini Nano Optical Mouse 97470 (wireless on non-powered three USB dongle hub) (B)<br />
<br />
* '''Xenta'''<br />
** MOW0810 (B)<br />
** Wired Optical Mouse (from [http://thepihut.com/products/usb-mouse-for-the-raspberry-pi The Pi Hut's Raspberry Pi Store])<br />
<br />
* '''Generic'''<br />
** Generic 2.4&nbsp;GHz Wireless Mouse (ID 040b:2013 Weltrend Semiconductor) (B)<br />
<br />
===Problem USB Mouse Devices===<br />
The following is a list of specific mouse devices that have problems working with the Raspberry Pi<br />
* '''A4Tech'''<br />
** Model G7-630 Wireless Mouse, 20&nbsp;mA. Part of wireless keyboard/mouse bundle GL-6630 (GL-6 + G7-630 + RN-10B) - suffers from USB flakeyness. Even on a powered hub. No problems on other computers I have tested it with.<br />
* '''HP'''<br />
** HP Retractable Mobile Mouse (Optical) HP Product Number XP472AA - errors / boot loop RASPBMC (B)removed mouse, started with no further errors. <br />
<br />
* '''Logik'''<br />
** Logik IMF Blue Trace Wired USB mouse (Model LMWBLU11) - disconnects from the USB port every 20 seconds when using the Raspian distro. Always reconnects to the USB port successfully (B)<br />
<br />
* '''Logitech'''<br />
** Logitech G400 Gaming Mouse - 100% CPU load and laggy mouse cursor when the mouse is moved. MX518 works fine on the same setup, so I suspect it's a polling rate issue. [http://tech2.in.com/reviews/mice/logitech-g400-is-it-a-worthy-successor/231012 this] says the mouse is 1000&nbsp;Hz out of the box, whereas the 518 is only 125&nbsp;Hz. Solution found: add usbhid.mousepoll=8 to the kernel commandline.<br />
<br />
* '''Microsoft'''<br />
** Microsoft Touch Mouse - Does not see right clicks, Only left.<br />
<br />
* '''Razer'''<br />
** Naga Wired USB mouse - the mouse seems to present itself as a keyboard because the numpad on the left-hand side of the device works, but the cursor doesn't move.<br />
<br />
* '''Roccat'''<br />
** Kone[+] Wired USB mouse - Nothing happens when moving the mouse, haven't looked further into the issue (B)<br />
<br />
* '''Trust'''<br />
** Optical USB Mouse MI-2250 - Nothing happens when moving the mouse (B)<br />
<br />
* '''Xenta'''<br />
** Multimedia Wireless Keyboard and Mouse Set (Mouse Model: HM-3301) (B) - frequent lost connection giving stuttering mouse cursor indicating USB current not enough for dongle<br />
<br />
== USB Real Time Clocks ==<br />
*Cymbet<br />
** Cymbet CBC-EVAL-06 USB Real Time Clock (FT2232 to SPI to RV-2123)<br />
Device information at http://www.cymbet.com/pdfs/DS-72-22.pdf<br />
Code to access the RTC from Linux: https://github.com/owendelong/Cymbet-RTC<br />
Does not require a powered hub.<br />
<br />
== USB Wi-Fi Adapters ==<br />
<br />
See also: http://www.element14.com/community/docs/DOC-44703/l/raspberry-pi-wifi-adapter-testing<br />
<br />
There is a howto on installing the TL-WN722N adapter [http://elinux.org/RPi_Peripherals#Wireless:_TP-Link_TL-WN722N_USB_wireless_adapter_.28Debian_6.29 here], which also acts as a guide for installing others too.<br />
<br />
===Working USB Wi-Fi Adapters===<br />
<br />
These adapters are known to work on the Raspberry Pi. This list is not exhaustive, other adapters may well work, but it has not yet been tried.<br />
<br />
'''Note:''' A Wi-Fi adapter will probably need more power than the Raspberry Pi USB port can provide, especially if<br />
there is a large distance from the Wi-Fi adapter to the Wi-Fi Access Point. Therefore, you may need to plug the Wi-Fi adapter into a powered USB hub.<br />
<br />
* '''3COM'''<br />
** 3CRUSB10075: ZyDAS zd1211rw chipset (!)<br />
<br />
* '''7DayShop'''<br />
** W-3S01BLK, W-3S01BLKTWIN: Unbranded product available from 7DayShop, in a single or twin pack. [http://www.7dayshop.com/catalog/product_info.php?cPath=777_9&products_id=112046], [http://www.7dayshop.com/catalog/product_info.php?&products_id=112527]. Tested on Debian Wheezy, with the dongle attached directly to the Raspberry Pi along with the wireless keyboard receiver. Shows up as a Ralink RT5370 device, and no drivers or additional software downloads required. Created wpa.conf, edited 'interfaces' file and restarted the networking. The manufacturer portion of the MAC address (7cdd90) is assigned to "Shenzhen Ogemray Technology Co., Ltd."<br />
** It works without additional software connected directly to a Rev 2 Raspberry Pi, but it stops working after a period of time (3 to 4 hours) with a fully updated Wheezy and all the 'USB workarounds' [http://elinux.org/Rpi_USB_check-list] in place. <br />
<br />
* '''Alfa'''<br />
** AWUS036NEH: Tested on Debian Squeeze (with Ralink firmware package)<br />
** AWUS036NH: Tested on Arch Linux ARM using the rt2800usb module.<br />
** AWUS036NH: Tested on Debian Wheezy (with Ralink firmware package). Tested on Raspbian too (drivers from aircrack-ng).<br />
** AWUS036H (500&nbsp;mW version): Tested on Raspbian (drivers from aircrack-ng).<br />
** AWUS036H (1&nbsp;W version): Tested on Raspbian (drivers from aircrack-ng). Needs USB powered HUB or Rev2 of the board / polyfuse bypass.<br />
** AWUS036NHA: Tested on Raspbian (drivers from aircrack-ng). Works fine if connected after boot, otherwise Raspberry Pi won't boot up.<br />
<br />
* '''AirLink101''' [[File:Airlink101.jpg|thumb|right|link=http://www.savagehomeautomation.com/raspi-airlink101|100px|Airlink 101 Wireless N 150 Ultra Mini-USB Adapter]]<br />
** AWLL5088: Tested on Debian Wheezy. This adapter is based on the OEM Edimax EW-7811Un. For automatic installation, See MrEngmanns script listed below under the Edimax device.<br />
** AWLL5099: Tested on Raspian Wheezy. [http://www.savagehomeautomation.com/raspi-airlink101 Step-by-step installation and configuration instructions] with screenshots can be found [http://www.savagehomeautomation.com/raspi-airlink101 here]. This adapter is based on the Realtek RTL8188CUS chipset. The rtl8192cu kernel driver is loaded automatically in the latest Raspian distribution. <br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
* '''Asus'''<br />
** [http://www.element14.com/community/docs/DOC-44703 USB-N10] USB ID 0b05:1786, r8712u staging driver, included on Fedora Remix & Arch, must [http://www.element14.com/community/servlet/JiveServlet/download/44948-8-97488/r8712u_ko.zip download] for Debian and install firmware - Realtek from non-free Squeeze repository (B) (not needed with latest Raspbian “Wheezy” 2012-07-15: this Asus works N10 out of the box) Does not support nl80211 APIS, so hostapd won't work.<br />
** [http://www.element14.com/community/docs/DOC-44703 USB-N13] USB ID 0b05:17ab, works with [http://learn.adafruit.com/adafruit-raspberry-pi-educational-linux-distro/occidentalis-v0-dot-1 Adafruit Occidentalis v0.1 image] as it includes kernel [http://www.element14.com/community/message/57635#57660 with 8192u driver built-in] (B)<br />
** WL-167G v1 USB ID 0b05:1706, Ralink RT2571 working out-of-the-box on Debian image from 2012-04-19. Requires powered hub, otherwise it is detected by OS, but it will not function.<br />
** WL-167G v3 USB ID 0b05:1791, working out-of-the-box on Linux raspberrypi 3.2.27+ #160 PREEMPT Mon Sep 17. Does not require powered hub.<br />
<br />
* '''AusPi Technologies'''<br />
** AusPi Wireless Adapter [Realtek RTL8188S]. Works without a powered HUB. Tested on OpenELEC (works OOB), RaspBMC (works OOB), XBian (works OOB) and 2012-08-08 Raspbian Wheezy (works OOB). Distributed in Australia by [http://www.buyraspberrypi.com.au/raspberry-pi-802-11bgn-usb-wireless-dongle/ Buy Raspberry Pi Australia].<br />
<br />
* '''Belkin'''<br />
** Belkin Components F5D7050 Wireless G Adapter v3000 [Ralink RT2571W]. On Debian requires the firmware-ralink package from the non-free repository. The usbcore module needs to be added to /etc/modules [http://www.penguintutor.com/blog/viewblog.php?blog=6281 install instructions].<br />
** Belkin Components F5D8053 ver.6001 Wireless N Adapter [Realtek RTL8188SU]. Tested on OpenELEC (works OOB), RaspBMC (works OOB), Raspian - 2012-07-15-Wheezy-raspbian '''Powered hub required!'''<br />
** Belkin Components F5D8053 ver.6001 Wireless N Adapter [Realtek RTL8188SU]. Works on RaspBMC OOB (with NetworkManager plugin). Works WITHOUT powered hub on 5&nbsp;V 800&nbsp;mA power with 6 overvolt (nothing else connected to USB)<br />
** Belkin Components F7D1101 v1 Basic Wireless Adapter [Realtek RTL8188SU] USB ID 050d:945a, r8712u staging driver, included on Fedora Remix & Arch, must [http://www.element14.com/community/servlet/JiveServlet/download/44948-8-97488/r8712u_ko.zip download] for Debian and install firmware - Realtek from non-free Squeeze repository (B). Verified working with 2012-12-16-wheezy-raspbian right out of the box.<br />
**Belkin Components F6D4050 V1 [Realtek RT3070] USB ID: 050d:935a Driver: RT3572STA(recommended),RT2800USB,RT2870STA. Tested under Arch using [https://wiki.archlinux.org/index.php/Setting_Up_Belkin_F6D4050_Wireless_USB_Dongles this] guide.<br />
**Belkin Components F6D4050 V1/V2 [Realtek RT3070] USB ID: 050d:935a / 935b Driver: RT3572STA. Tested with Raspbian - See [http://iggy82.blogspot.co.uk/2012/08/wireless-n-raspberry-pi-belkin-f6d4050.html installation instructions] - Powered hub not required!<br />
** Belkin Components F7D2102 "N300" Micro Wireless USB adapter. Tested with Occidentalis 0.1. Tested and working on Rasbian Wheezy (and RaspBMC), driver RTL8192CU, no powered hub needed (dongle directly attached to the onboard ports)<br />
** Belkin Components F9L1001v1 "N150" Wireless USB Adapter. Tested and working on Rasbian Wheezy WITHOUT powered hub. <br />
** Belkin Surf Micro WLAN USB-Adapter (Raspbian Wheezy, unpowered hub, "N150")<br />
<br />
* '''BlueProton'''<br />
** [http://www.element14.com/community/docs/DOC-44703 BT3] USB ID: 0bda:8187; tested on Debian, Fedora & Arch; rtl8187 driver (B)<br />
<br />
* '''Buffalo'''<br />
** USB ID: 0411:01A2 WLI-UC-GNM - Tested on Raspbmc; rt2800usb driver <br />
** USB ID: WLI-UC-G300N - Works on Raspbmc out of the box. Tested after a factory reset of the Raspbmc.<br />
<br />
* '''Comfast'''<br />
** WU710N: chipset RTL8188CUS. The rtl8192cu kernel driver is loaded automatically in the latest Raspian distribution. <br />
<br />
* '''Conceptronic'''<br />
** C300RU. Works out of the box in Raspbian. Causes reboot when plugging on a live Rev. 2 Raspberry Pi<br />
<br />
* '''Conrad'''<br />
** WLAN Stick N150 mini. Works out of the box in OpenELEC, [http://www.t3node.com/blog/sempre-wireless-usb-stick-wu300-2-on-raspberry-pi/ requires firmware - Realtek and r8712u kernel module on Debian].<br />
** WLAN Stick N150 Nano [Realtek RTL8188CUS]. Requires a powered USB hub. See Micronet SP907NS for installation instructions and script.<br />
<br />
* '''DELL'''<br />
** Wireless 1450 [Intersil ISL3887]. Works out of the box, but it requires a powered hub (the Raspberry Pi boots with this dongle plugged in, recognizes and configures it, works for some time, but then it crashes randomly under heavy traffic. A powered hub seems to fix the issue).<br />
<br />
* '''DIGICOM'''<br />
** USBWAVE54 [chipset Zydas ZD1211] . [[http://www.digicom.it/digisit/prodotti.nsf/itprodottiidx/UsbWave54]] Works out of the box in OpenELEC. With Raspbian or Debian squeezy/Wheezy works with zd1211-firmware . <br />
** USBWAVE300C [chipset Ralink 2870] . [[http://www.digicom.it/digisit/prodotti.nsf/itprodottiidx/UsbWave300c]] Works out of the box in OpenELEC. With Raspbian or Debian squeezy/Wheezy works with firmware-ralink . <br />
<br />
* '''D-Link'''<br />
** AirPlus G DWL-G122 (rev. E). USB ID 07d1:3c0f, Ralink RT2870. On Debian requires the <code>firmware-ralink</code> package from the <code>Squeeze-firmware</code> non-free repository. (However I experience total crashes on Raspbian 2012-07-15 after a few minutes of load on the WLAN. Will have to investigate via serial console.)<br />
** AirPlus G DWL-G122 (rev. C). USB ID 07d1:3c03, Ralink RT2571. Working out-of-the-box on Arch image from 2012-04-29.<br />
** AirPlus G DWL-G122 (rev. B1). USB ID 2001:3c00, Ralink RT2571. Working out-of-the-box on Arch image from 2012-06-13.<br />
** DWA-110 (Version A1). Requires the ralink package from the non-free repository on Debian.<br />
** DWA-121 (Version A1). Wireless N 150 Pico. Works out-of-the-box with Raspian Wheezy (2012-09-18) and Raspbmc (2012-11-06) using Network-Manager addon (see Program - Addons)<br />
** DWA-123 (Version A1). USB ID 2001:3c17, Ralink RT2800. Working out-of-the-box on Arch image from 2012-04-29. (working without UBS Hub - not yet sure if it achieves full speed though.)<br />
** DWA-131 USB ID 07d1:3303,Realtek RTL8192SU, 802.11n Wireless N Nano. Works out of the box on Raspbian “Wheezy”. Verified with direct USB: no powered USB hub needed. Also verified when Nano used in powered USB hub. Someone had trouble configuring SSID/Passphrase in etc/network/interfaces file. But no problem & very easy to configure using wicd: wicd is a gui interface on LXDE for network configuration. Install it using command-line: <code>apt-get install wicd</code>. Once configured ith wicd to auto-run on boot, no need to turn back to LXDE. Recommended.<br />
** DWA-140 (Version B1). USB ID 07d1:3c09, Ralink RT2870. On Debian requires the <code>firmware-ralink</code> package from the <code>Squeeze-firmware</code> non-free repository.<br />
** DWA-140 (Version B2). USB ID 07d1:3c0a, Ralink RT3072. Workaround for faulty firmware binary: Place file rt2870.bin from [https://launchpad.net/ubuntu/oneiric/+source/linux-firmware/1.53/+files/linux-firmware_1.53.tar.gz linux-firmware_1.53.tar.gz] in /lib/firmware. [https://bugs.launchpad.net/ubuntu/+source/linux-firmware/+bug/770232 Explanation].<br />
** DWA-160 (Version B1). USB ID 07d1:3c11, Ralink RT2870. On Debian requires the <code>firmware-ralink</code> package from the <code>Squeeze-firmware</code> non-free repository.<br />
** DWA-160 (Version A2). USB ID 07d1:3a09, Atheros AR9170. (NOTE: I can only get it to work through powered USB hub) requires carl9170-fw firmware [http://http://aur.archlinux.org/packages.php/packages.php?ID=44102]<br />
** WUA-1340 (Version A1). Works with Raspbian Wheezy after installing the firmware-ralink package from the non-free repository on Debian.<br />
<br />
* '''Edimax''' [[File:Edimax-ew-7811un.jpg|thumb|right|link=http://www.savagehomeautomation.com/raspi-edimax-ew-7811un|100px|Edimax EW-7811Un 150 Mbps Wireless 11n Nano Size USB Adapter]]<br />
** [http://www.edimax.co.uk/en/produce_detail.php?pd_id=328&pl1_id=1&pl2_id=44 EW-7811Un] USB ID 7392:7811, RTL8192CU, driver blob [http://www.electrictea.co.uk/rpi/8192cu.tar.gz download] via [http://www.element14.com/community/docs/DOC-44703 Element14], works with WPA2-AES-CCMP ([http://www.ctrl-alt-del.cc/2012/05/raspberry-pi-meets-edimax-ew-7811un-wireless-ada.html howto]) (B) - [http://dl.dropbox.com/u/80256631/8192cu-latest.tar.gz Alternative driver download link that works with Raspian]. <b>Note:</b> With current Raspbian (2012-09-18-Wheezy) it is recognized immediately, the default module works fine; the configuration is easy using wireless-essid and wireless-key in /etc/network/interfaces.<br />
*** The EW-7811Un can be powered directly from the Raspberry Pi if the Raspberry Pi is powered using a well regulated power supply.<br />
*** EW-7811Un [http://www.savagehomeautomation.com/raspi-edimax-ew-7811un step-by-step installation and configuration instructions] for Debian & Raspian with screenshots can be found here: [http://www.savagehomeautomation.com/raspi-edimax-ew-7811un here] <br />
*** A script-based installation for the [http://www.edimax.co.uk/en/produce_detail.php?pd_id=328&pl1_id=1&pl2_id=44 EW-7811Un] by MrEngman can be found [http://www.raspberrypi.org/phpBB3/viewtopic.php?f=26&t=6256&hilit=edimax on the Raspberry Pi forums]. Tested with Debian Squeeze and Raspbian. [http://dl.dropbox.com/u/80256631/install-rtl8188cus.txt An installation guide can be found here.]<br />
*** Instructions for getting the [http://www.edimax.co.uk/en/produce_detail.php?pd_id=328&pl1_id=1&pl2_id=44 EW-7811Un] working in Raspbmc (tested RC3) can be found [http://forum.stmlabs.com/showthread.php?tid=780 here].<br />
*** Simple step-by-step instructions for [http://www.edimax.co.uk/en/produce_detail.php?pd_id=328&pl1_id=1&pl2_id=44 EW-7811Un] which uses the RTL8192 chipset [[RPi_edimax_EW-7811Un]](B)<br />
** [http://www.edimax.com/en/produce_detail.php?pd_id=8&pl1_id=1&pl2_id=44 EW-7318USg] USB ID 148f:2573, rt73usb. RT2573 chipset. Works with powered usb-hub or shorted polyfuses.<br />
** [http://www.edimax.co.uk/en/produce_detail.php?pd_id=261&pl1_id=1&pl2_id=44 EW-7711UAn], Ralink RT2870, works perfectly on Arch with a powered hub (not tested without yet). Simply required wireless_tools and wpa_supplicant, the drivers/firmware are included in kernel 3.0. I followed the Arch [https://wiki.archlinux.org/index.php/Wireless_Setup Wireless Setup] instructions.<br />
<br />
* '''edup'''<br />
** [[http://www2.buyincoins.com/details/usb-150m-wifi-wireless-lan-network-card-adapter-antenna-product-1916.html Edup 150MBPS Wi-Fi adapter]] USB ID: 148f:5370 Ralink Technology, Corp. RT5370 Wireless Adapter. Driver is the RT2800USB module, I had to install the firmware as rt2870.bin in /lib/firmware.([http://raspberry-pi-notes.blogspot.com/2012/05/rt5370-cheap-micro-usb-wireless-dongle.html requires firmware-ralink from Wheezy]) (B)<br />
** [http://dx.com/p/ultra-mini-nano-usb-2-0-802-11n-150mbps-wifi-wlan-wireless-network-adapter-48166?item=1&Utm_rid=24958662&Utm_source=affiliate Ultra-Mini Nano USB 2.0 802.11n 150&nbsp;Mbit/s Wi-Fi/WLAN Wireless Network Adapter] USB ID: ID 0bda:8176 Works stable when using VLC for internet radio receiver. Works stable 24/7 on two of my Raspberries used as webserver. Use method shown [http://www.raspberrypi.org/phpBB3/viewtopic.php?t=7471&p=91736 here] for Debian.<br />
<br />
** [http://www.szedup.com/show.aspx?id=1681 edup nano EP-N8508] Use method shown [http://www.raspberrypi.org/phpBB3/viewtopic.php?t=7471&p=91736 here] for Debian. Requires powered USB hub for adequate power. When directly powered by Raspberry Pi, it fails after a few minutes. (B) Unusable with analog audio because when data is being send or recieved the audio get disorted. Use script from [http://dl.dropbox.com/u/80256631/install-wheezy-beta-rtl8188cus-20120619.sh here] for Wheezy.<br />
<br />
* '''Eminent'''<br />
** EM4575 - rt2800usb driver.<br />
<br />
* '''EnGenius'''<br />
** EUB9603 EXT - Realtek r8712u driver <br />
<br />
* '''Gigabyte'''<br />
** Gigabyte GN-WB32L 802.11n USB WLAN Card. Works with the rt2800usb driver.<br />
<br />
* '''GMYLE'''<br />
** Wireless 11n USB Adapter. Uses RTL8188CUS chipset - cheap on eBay. Installs and works using the install-rtl8188cus-latest.sh script.<br />
<br />
* '''IOGear'''<br />
** [http://www.element14.com/community/docs/DOC-44703 GWU625] USB ID 0bda:8172, r8712u staging driver, included on Fedora Remix & Arch, must [http://www.element14.com/community/servlet/JiveServlet/download/44948-8-97488/r8712u_ko.zip download] for Debian Squeeze and install firmware - Realtek from non-free Squeeze repository. No need to download firmware when using Debian Wheezy (B)<br />
<br />
* '''Linksys'''<br />
** Linksys (Cisco) WUSB100 ver.2 1737:0078, tested on Raspbian; follow [http://www.brucalipto.org/linux/the-raspberry-diary-wusb100-wireless-n/ Brucalipto.org] instructions; not stress tested, but it works without issues for light network load.<br />
** Linksys (Cisco) WUSB600N, test on Raspbian, details [http://elibtronic.ca/content/20120731/raspberry-pi-part-1-wifi-support here]<br />
** Linksys WUSB54GC (manufactured 07/2008) No issues! needs powered hub on version 1.0 boards.<br />
<br />
* '''LogiLink'''<br />
** Wireless LAN USB 2.0 Nano Adapter 802.11n LogiLink [http://www.logilink.eu/showproduct/WL0084B.htm] is working even USB powered.<br />
<br />
* '''Lutec'''<br />
** Lutec WLA-54L (old version with ZD1211b chipset) is working even USB powered.<br />
<br />
* '''Micronet'''<br />
** Micronet SP907NS, 11N Wireless LAN USB Adapter (uses Realtek RTL8188CUS) works plugged directly into Raspberry Pi USB (B) [http://dl.dropbox.com/u/80256631/install-rtl8188cus.txt Debian installation instructions] IMPORTANT: read the instructions first to avoid problems, and [http://dl.dropbox.com/u/80256631/install-rtl8188cus-latest.sh Auto-install script]. The script has been used to install other adapters using the RTL8188CUS chip. [http://dl.dropbox.com/u/80256631/8192cu-latest.tar.gz Updated driver] that handles the latest rpi-updates that kill the original driver, download for manual installation, automatically installed by the Auto-install script.<br />
<br />
* '''MSI'''<br />
** 0db0:6861 MSI-6861 802.11g Wi-Fi adapter (US54G): works with external powered USB hub, requires firmware from [http://sourceforge.net/projects/zd1211/files/zd1211-firmware/ here], power management must be disabled: <code>iwconfig wlan0 power off</code><br />
<br />
* '''Mvix'''<br />
** Mvix Nubbin (MS-811N): works out of the box on Raspbian "Wheezy" and does not need a powered USB hub.<br />
<br />
* '''Netgear''' <br />
** N150: Reported as WNA1100 device, uses the Atheros ar9271 chipset. On Debian, requires the <code>firmware-atheros</code> package from the <code>Squeeze-backports</code> non-free repository (!)<br />
** N150: Some versions reported as Realtek RTL8188CUS device. Read Micronet entry above and use RTL8188CUS script for installation. Works best plugged into powered USB hub.<br />
** WG111v1: Prism54 chipset. Needs powered hub. Follow info for Prism54 chipset on Debian wiki.<br />
** WG111v2: Realtek rtl8187 chipset. Seems to draw a lot of power; e.g. I can't power this and a USB thumb drive simultaneously.<br />
** WNA1000M works with Raspberry Pi Model B Board v. BS1233.However when downloading torrents, when torrent pick up speed system become unresponsive. <br />
<br />
* '''OvisLink'''<br />
** Evo-W300USB: USB ID 148f:2270 Ralink Technology RT2770. apt-get install firmware-ralink<br />
<br />
* '''Patriot Memory'''<br />
** [http://patriotmemory.com/products/detailp.jsp?prodline=6&catid=69&prodgroupid=163&id=1198&type=20 PCUSBW1150] Wireless 11N USB adapter (uses Realtek RTL8188CUS) Install using Micronet script. Works only through powered USB hub.<br />
** [http://www.patriotmemory.com/products/detailp.jsp?prodline=6&catid=69&prodgroupid=163&id=973&type=20 PCBOWAU2-N] Wireless 11N USB adapter (uses Realtek RTL8191SU chip) Installed using r8712u Kernel module<br />
<br />
* '''Ralink'''<br />
** inner 02 joggler Wi-Fi USB RT2770F USB-ID 148f:2770 (firmware-ralink required) (only got dhcp on powered hub)<br />
** [http://www.dx.com/p/24688 RT2070] USB-ID 148f:2070 firmware is already loaded into Raspbian. For Debian, the firmware must be installed ([http://wiki.debian.org/rt2870sta instructions]). Needs a powered USB hub.<br />
** RT3070 USB-ID 148f:3070 firmware is already loaded into Raspbian.<br />
** [http://www.element14.com/community/docs/DOC-44703 RT2501/RT2573] USB-ID 148f:2573 (firmware-ralink required) (B)<br />
** RT5370 USB-ID 148f:5370 ([http://raspberry-pi-notes.blogspot.com/2012/05/rt5370-cheap-micro-usb-wireless-dongle.html requires firmware-ralink from Wheezy]) [[RPi_Ralink_WLAN_devices]](B). An image of an adapter with this chip can be found [http://i.imgur.com/wRF7L.jpg here].<br />
<br />
* '''Rosewill'''<br />
** RNX-N180UBE Wireless B/G/N Adapter<br />
*** Realtek RTL8191SU chipset, USB-ID 0bda:8172<br />
*** Tested in Arch, works out of box. Powered USB hub required.<br />
*** Tested in Raspbian, used wicd to configure network settings. Powered USB hub Required.<br />
*** Tested in Raspbmc. Needs package firmware - Realtek and used wicd-curses to configure. Powered USB hub required<br />
** RNX-G1 Wireless B/G Adapter<br />
*** Realtek RTL8187 chipset, USB-ID 0bda:8187<br />
*** Tested in Arch, works out of box. USB hub required.<br />
** RNX-MiniN1 (RWLD-110001) Wireless-N 2.0 Dongle (Realtek Semiconductor Corp. RTL8188CUS 802.11n WLAN Adapter)<br />
*** Tested in Raspbian, powered from USB hub.<br />
<br />
* '''Sabrent'''<br />
** USB-A11N: Mini USB 2.0 Wireless-N WiFi Network Adapter: USB ID 0bda:8176, works automatically in Raspbian using rtl8192cu driver along with Logitech BT mini-receiver (keyboard/mousepad) without external hub using 5.25V 1 A psu (4.99V T1/T2) on rev 2.0 (B)<br />
<br />
* '''Sagem'''<br />
** Sagem Wireless USB stick XG-760N: USB ID 079b:0062, Module is not shipped in Debian image, but it can be "sudo apt-get install zd1211-firmware"<br />
<br />
* '''Sempre'''<br />
** Sempre Wireless USB stick WU300-2: USB ID 0bda:8172, Realtek r8712u driver + firmware-realtek package. Module is shipped in Raspbian image. If you need to build it for other distros, read this: http://www.t3node.com/blog/sempre-wireless-usb-stick-wu300-2-on-raspberry-pi/<br />
<br />
* '''Sitecom'''<br />
** Sitecom Wi-Fi USB Adapter N300: USB ID 0a5c:5800, Realtek r8712u driver + firmware Realtek. Module available in shipped Raspbian image. '''NOTE:''' although this dongle will also work without powered hub, if there is a voltage problem (either on the Raspberry or on the hub, but verified only on the hub so far) this wifi dongle will receive signal perfectly (RX), but not be capable of sending anything (TX) and the MAC address will be permanently set to FF:FF:FF:FF:FF:FF (this is indicative that there is not enough power) [http://www.raspberrypi.org/phpBB3/viewtopic.php?f=28&t=24247]<br />
<br />
* '''SL'''<br />
** SL-1507N: USB 802.11n 150M Wi-Fi Wireless LAN Network Card Adapter SL-1507N Black<br />
*** I bought this on on eBay for $4.19 (free shipping) @ http://www.ebay.com/itm/270853614804?ssPageName=STRK:MEWNX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1497.l2649#ht_4379wt_1199<br />
*** It worked out of the box on Raspbmc RC4, with the network manager add-on; seems to be an rt2800usb<br />
*** dmesg output "usbcore: registered new interface driver rt2800usb"<br />
<br />
* '''SMC'''<br />
** SMCWUSBS-N: Hardware detected as rt2800, but it is missing firmware; "sudo apt-get install firmware-ralink" fixed it<br />
** SMCWUSB-G: Gives "couldn't load firmware" error. "sudo apt-get install zd1211-firmware" fixes it.<br />
<br />
* '''Sony'''<br />
** Sony UWA-BR100 802.11abgn Wireless Adapter [Atheros AR7010+AR9280] (Vendor ID: 0411, Product ID: 017f) - Tested with Raspbian. Needs package firmware-atheros.(B)<br />
<br />
* '''Tenda''' <br />
** USB 11n adapter on a G network: Ralink 2870/3070 driver (!)<br />
** Tenda W311MI Wireless N Pico USB Adapter (identified as Ralink RT5370 Wireless Adapter; USB-ID: 148f:5370) - Works out-of-the-box for Raspian 2012/09/18 or later. An earlier version gave me problems.<br />
** Tenda W311U Mini 11N Wireless USB Adapter (USB-ID 148f:3070): Ralink 2870/3070 driver; needs powered hub. [http://blog.modmypi.com/2012/06/installing-tenda-w311u-mini-wireless.html Debian installation instructions]<br />
** Tenda W311U+ Wireless USB Adapter - Tested with Raspbian.<br />
<br />
*'''The Pi Hut'''<br />
** USB 802.11n Wi-Fi adapter (from [http://thepihut.com/products/usb-wifi-adapter-for-the-raspberry-pi The Pi Hut's Raspberry Pi Store])<br />
<br />
* '''TP-Link'''<br />
** TL-WN422G v2 (ath9k_htc) Works OOTB in Debian Wheezy Beta. Runs without powered Hub when plugged into running Raspberry Pi, but the Raspberry Pi won't boot while the stick is plugged in.<br />
** TL-WN721N (ath9k_htc device with htc_9271.fw file from http://linuxwireless.org/download/htc_fw/1.3/htc_9271.fw); needs powered USB Hub (B) | works OOTB with Wheezy Raspbian (2012-08-16) connected directly to raspberry pi (B) and AP functionality tested with hostapd.<br />
** TL-WN722N (ath9k_htc device with htc_9271.fw file from http://linuxwireless.org/download/htc_fw/1.3/htc_9271.fw); needs powered USB Hub (B)<br />
** TL-WN723N (RTL8188SU); works OOTB with Raspbian 2012-09-17, (B) stable with 1&nbsp;A PSU and without powered USB hub on r2.0.<br />
** TL-WN821N v3 (ath9k_htc, htc_7010.fw); works out of the box on ArchLinuxARM, Wheezy and on OpenElec (>r11211), Problems with prior OpenElec; needs powered USB Hub (B). This chipset is also compatible with hostapd (wireless AP software)<br />
** TL-WN823N Works out of box on Raspian using powered USB Hub<br />
<br />
* '''Trendnet'''<br />
** [http://www.wikidevi.com/wiki/TRENDnet_TEW-648UBM TEW-648UBM] USB ID: 20f4:648b, works OOTB with [http://learn.adafruit.com/adafruit-raspberry-pi-educational-linux-distro/ Adafruit Occidentials Raspbian Wheezy variant] as it includes kernel with [http://www.wikidevi.com/wiki/Special:Ask?title=Special%3AAsk&q=%5B%5BChip1+model%3A%3ARTL8188CUS%5D%5D&po=%3FInterface%0D%0A%3FFCC+ID%0D%0A%3FVendor+ID%0D%0A%3FDevice+ID%0D%0A%3FChip1+model%0D%0A%3FSupported+802dot11+protocols%0D%0A%3FMIMO+status%0D%0A%3FOUI%0D%0A&sort_num=&order_num=ASC&eq=yes&p%5Bformat%5D=broadtable&p%5Blimit%5D=500&p%5Bsort%5D=&p%5Boffset%5D=&p%5Bheaders%5D=show&p%5Bmainlabel%5D=&p%5Blink%5D=all&p%5Bsearchlabel%5D=&p%5Bintro%5D=&p%5Boutro%5D=&p%5Bdefault%5D=&p%5Bclass%5D=sortable+wikitable+smwtable&eq=yes RTL8188CUS driver built-in] (B)<br />
<br />
* '''Widemac'''<br />
** RT5370 Wireless Adapter from [http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/180887771838?ssPageName=STRK:MEWNX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1497.l2649 Ebay] runs without powered hub. Follow these [http://elinux.org/RPi_Ralink_WLAN_devices instructions], but go to [http://ftp.de.debian.org/debian/pool/non-free/f/firmware-nonfree/ ftp.de.debian.org/debian/pool/non-free/f/firmware-nonfree/] and pick the latest firmware-ralink_0.xx_all.deb<br />
<br />
* '''ZyXEL'''<br />
** [http://www.element14.com/community/message/50015#50015/l/re-installing-kernel-headers-on-the-pi NWD2105] USB ID: 0586:341e, RT3070 chipset, rt2800usb driver (B)<br />
** [http://www.zyxel.com/products_services/g_202.shtml G-202] model 0586:3410 ZyXEL Communications Corp. ZyAIR G-202 802.11bg using zd1211rw kernel module and zd1211-firmware package<br />
<br />
===Problem USB Wi-Fi Adapters===<br />
<br />
These adapters were tested and found to have issues the Raspberry Pi. Note [http://www.raspberrypi.org/phpBB3/viewtopic.php?f=28&t=6928] as a possible solution/explanation for errors while running LXDE.<br />
<br />
* '''Alfa'''<br />
** AWUS036NHA (Vendor ID: 0cf3, Product ID: 9271) - Tested with Raspbian. Works fine if connected after boot. Kills boot process if previously attached. [http://www.raspberrypi.org/phpBB3/viewtopic.php?f=28&t=16809&p=169469#p169469 Details here.]<br />
<br />
* '''EDIMAX'''<br />
** EW-7811Un (Vendor ID: 7397, Product ID: 7811) - Reports as containing the Realtek RTL8188CUS chipset listed below, no lockup or kernal oops under Wheezy, but dmesg reports constant timeouts trying to initialize the module. This appears to be resolved on 2012-09-18-Wheezy-raspbian and newer versions.<br />
<br />
* '''Linksys'''<br />
** WUSB300N (Vendor ID: 13B1, Product ID: 0029) - Tested with Raspbian, OpenELEC, among others. No Linux chipset support for Marvell 88W8362 at all.<br />
<br />
* '''LogiLink'''<br />
** WL0085 tested under Debian (Squeeze, Wheezy, Raspbian); no stable connection can be established. This gets even worse when X is running.<br />
<br />
* '''MicroNEXT'''<br />
** MN-WD152B (Debian image) modprobe hangs when plugged in, lsusb hangs. udevd errors in the logs. [http://www.element14.com/community/thread/17632] [http://www.raspberrypi.org/phpBB3/viewtopic.php?t=6737]<br />
*** Possible fix: try the new [http://learn.adafruit.com/adafruit-raspberry-pi-educational-linux-distro/occidentalis-v0-dot-1 Adafruit Occidentalis v0.1] image (based on Raspbian Wheezy) as it includes the needed 8192cu driver builtin to the kernel<br />
<br />
* '''Netgear'''<br />
** WNDA3100v2 tested with Debian (Wheezy); no driver for broadcom chipset (see [http://www.wikidevi.com/wiki/Netgear_WNDA3100v2 http://www.wikidevi.com/wiki/Netgear_WNDA3100v2]).<br />
<br />
* '''Realtek'''<br />
** RTL8188CUS USB-ID 0bda:8176, kernel oops in dmesg and freeze when pulled from USB. (B)<br />
<br />
* '''Trendnet'''<br />
** [http://www.element14.com/community/docs/DOC-44703 TEW-424UB] USB ID: 0bda:8189; tested on Debian, Fedora & Arch; rtl8187 driver; errors with LXDE running (B)<br />
<br />
* '''TP-Link'''<br />
** [http://www.element14.com/community/docs/DOC-44703 TL-WN821N] USB ID: 0cf3:7015; tested on Debian; requires [http://linuxwireless.org/download/htc_fw/1.3/htc_7010.fw htc_7010.fw] firmware; ath9k_htc driver; errors with LXDE running (B)<br />
** TL-WN723N USB ID: 0bda:8176; tested on Arch without a powered hub; it seems to draw too much current.<br />
<br />
== USB Bluetooth adapters ==<br />
===Working Bluetooth adapters===<br />
* Asus USBIA-EG (paired with Asus Blutooth Keyboard/Media Center Remote<br />
** Verified works error-free in Multiple Distros (Openelec, Raspbian, RaspBMC, Xbian) Latest builds eliminate text echo problems.<br />
* Cambridge Silicon Radio, Ltd Bluetooth Dongle (HCI mode) - (USB ID 0a12:0001)<br />
** Example of above is; TOPDIGI UA01 Bluetooth USB Dongle Plug and Play (install bluez package from std repos)<br />
** Tesco own brand 'Technika' Nano Bluetooth Adapter has the Cambridge Silicon Radio chipset and works fine, cost £5.97 at time of posting.<br />
** Hama USB Bluetooth 3.0 adapter (Class 1) ~£10 on amazon.co.uk.<br />
** Another sample: Product ID: 0a12:0001, pictured here: http://www.element14.com/community/message/58288<br />
** RiiTek RT-MWK02+ - comes with a USB Bluetooth adapter that works perfectly for both the RiiTek mini Bluetooth keyboard/mouse and other Bluetooth devices. Tested both on builtin USB and on powered USB hub. There are other RiiTek Bluetooth (and non-Bluetooth wireless) devices on the working list. Bluetooth adapter shows up in lsusb as "0a12:0001 Cambridge Silicon Radio" - this is notable as most other sources of this chipset do not seem to be available in the US.<br />
* D-Link DBT-122, with ID 07d1:f101, using a Broadcom chip<br />
** http://www.element14.com/community/message/58288<br />
* IOGear GBU321 (Broadcom BCM2045 Chipset)<br />
** Works with Raspbian Wheezy directly attached to Raspberry Pi and via powered USB hub.<br />
* Trust BT-2400p<br />
** Working well with Raspbian Wheezy directly attached to Raspberry Pi. Using with sma-Bluetooth (SMA Solar Inverter reading software).<br />
===Working Bluetooth/Wifi Combo adapters===<br />
* PLANEX 2 in 1 Micro Size USB Bluetooth3.0 WiFi Combo Adapter - Model number: BT-Micro3H2X<ref>http://www.raspberrypi.org/phpBB3/viewtopic.php?f=45&t=27678</ref><br />
===Problem Bluetooth adapters===<br />
* '''Belkin'''<br />
** Belkin F8T017. Tested with Raspbian 2012-07-15 and bluez installed with apt-get. When dongle is inserted into Pluscom powered USB hub, my remote PuTTY session scrolls incredibly slowly (testing with ls -R to generate text). Suspect network issue. Lots of errors on dmesg too. Raspberry Pi itself is responsive when using directly. On removal of the device everything goes back to normal.<br />
* '''Generic'''<br />
** [http://dx.com/p/mini-bluetooth-v3-0-usb-2-0-dongle-71248 Bluetooth "3.0" Dongle]. Doesn't work reliably - eg. after some time it will hang and the device will need to be reset using fcntl. The device id is 1131:1004 Integrated System Solution Corp. Bluetooth Device.<br />
* Asus USB-BT211<br />
** Shows up as HCI device in Raspbian, but it does not scan or pair.<br />
** http://www.raspberrypi.org/phpBB3/viewtopic.php?f=28&t=9962<br />
<br />
== USB Ethernet adapters ==<br />
===Working Ethernet adapters===<br />
* '''AVM'''<br />
** FRITZ!Box WLAN 3030 USB Ethernet Adapter: Works out of the box. No external power source needed.<br />
* '''Wintech'''<br />
** USB 2.0 LanCard Model: LAU-15 (CK0049C) using the mcs7830 driver. Probably needs more than 100&nbsp;mA current. [http://www.raspberrypi.org/phpBB3/viewtopic.php?f=46&t=8708#p106136]<br />
* '''LogiLink'''<br />
** USB 2.0 UA0144: AX88772 chipset using the asix kernel driver. Tested only on powered USB hub so far.<br />
** LogiLink Fast EN USB 2.0 to RJ45 Adapter: Test on Wheezy-Raspian (2012-08-16) without USB Hub will be confirmed<br />
lsusb output: Bus 001 Device 004: ID 9710:7830 MosChip Semiconductor MCS7830 10/100 Mbps Ethernet adapter <br />
* '''Apple'''<br />
** Apple USB Ethernet Adapter using asix kernel driver. Works out of the box on Raspbian, haven't tested on any other OS.<br />
* '''Edimax'''<br />
** Edimax EU-4230 USB2.0 Fast Ethernet Adapter with 3 port USB hub. Works out of the box. Needs its own power source.<br />
* '''D-Link'''<br />
** D-Link DUB-E100 Fast Ethernet USB 2.0 Adapter - works out of the box, requires own power supply (from powered USB hub)<br />
* '''Sabrent'''<br />
** Sabrent USB 2.0 10/100 Ethernet Adapter - works out of the box (asix), but USB 2.0 '''only''' (does not work if using dwc_otg.speed=1 in cmdline.txt to force USB 1.1 for other problem hardware)<br />
* '''Sitecom'''<br />
** Sitecom LN-030 V2 detected as ASIX AX88772 USB 2.0 Ethernet Adapter works out of the box. Doesn't seem to require any extra power supply.<br />
* '''A-Link'''<br />
** A-Link NA1GU Gigabit USB 2.0 Ethernet adapter<br />
This adapter works, but it (probably) requires a bit of work. The driver for the chipset (Asix AX88178) included with the Raspbian kernel (v 3.1.9+ Aug 7 2012) does '''not''' work. With that driver the device is detected, but it does not seem to be possible to actually put any traffic through it. :-( In order to make it work you need to download the latest driver from [http://www.asix.com.tw/products.php?op=pItemdetail&PItemID=84;71;100&PLine=71 the chipset manufacturer]. The version I used was "Linux kernel 3.x/2.6.x Driver" v4.4.0, released 2012-05-18. Fortunately this is GNU GPLv2 -licenced source code and not a binary blob, so compiling it for the Raspberry Pi is perfectly doable. The hardest part was in fact getting the Linux source code required, because the repositores contained the source for the wrong kernel version. >:-( Fortunately there is [https://www.grendelman.net/wp/compiling-kernel-modules-for-raspbian-raspberry-pi a very useful guide] for how to get the sources from github, and preparing that source so that you can compile modules. Unfortunately you will have to compile the kernel (even if you don't actually install it) - which will take the better part of the day on the Raspberry, but once that's done you can unpack the driver source and just run "make && sudo make install". Reboot and you should have a fully working Ethernet adapter.<br />
<br />
The adapter seems to work without a powered USB hub, but according to the specifications it can draw up to 190&nbsp;mA, so there might be stability issues if additional power is not provided.<br />
* '''Hama'''<br />
** Hama 00049244 Fast Ethernet USB 2.0-Adapter detected as MOSCHIP 7830/7832/7730 usb-NET adapter. Works out of the box on Debian Wheezy/sid (2012-08-08-wheezy-armel)(not tested yet on other OS). No external power source or USB hub needed.<br />
<br />
===Problem Ethernet adapters===<br />
* Axago<br />
** Axago ADE-X1 10/100 Ethernet Adapter (USB: 9710:7830 driver:mcs7830). Adapter working about 10 minutes without problem, but after that kernel write error message to dmesg and no packet is received. Needed to unplug and plug USB again. Tested with and without powered USB hub. dmesg error: NETDEV WATCHDOG: eth1 (MOSCHIP usb-ethernet driver): transmit queue 0 timed out<br />
<br />
== USB Sound Cards ==<br />
You will usually want the <code>alsa</code> package for sound. In the Debian image for Raspberry Pi (and possibly other distributions) USB sound cards are prevented from loading as the first sound card, which can be an annoyance if it's the only device you have. To disable this behaviour edit <code>/etc/modprobe.d/alsa-base.conf</code> and comment out the last line; <code>options snd-usb-audio index=-2</code> . If you are not user ''pi'' you may need to add your username to the ''audio'' group thus: <code>sudo adduser yourusername audio</code> (user ''pi'' usually belongs to this group anyway).<br />
<br />
* '''Creative'''<br />
** [http://asia.creative.com/products/product.asp?category=1&subcategory=207&product=17892 Sound Blaster Play!]<br />
* '''Daffodil'''<br />
** [http://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B002FI7GWK/ref=oh_details_o03_s00_i00 USB Sound Adapter US01]. Tested with low-cost headphone/microphone set via ''audacity'' (See notes at [http://www.cpmspectrepi.webspace.virginmedia.com/raspberry_pi/MoinMoinExport/DaffodilUSBSoundAdapter.html CPM-Spectre-Pi...DaffodilUSBSoundAdapter]).<br />
* '''Edirol'''<br />
** [http://www.roland.com/products/en/UA-1A/ UA-1A]<br />
* '''Hercules'''<br />
** [http://www.hercules.com/fr/Cartes-Son/bdd/p/123/gamesurround-muse-xl-pocket-lt3/ Gamesurround Muse XL (Pocket LT3)]<br />
* '''Logilink'''<br />
** [http://www.logilink.de/showproduct/UA0053.htm?seticlanguage=en UA0053 USB Soundcard with Virtual 3D Soundeffects LogiLink]<br />
* '''NuForce uDAC-2'''<br />
** [http://www.nuforce.com/hp/products/iconudac2/index.php NuForce uDAC-2 Headphone Amplifier and USB DAC]<br />
* '''Terratec'''<br />
** [http://www.terratec.net/fr/produkte/Aureon_Dual_USB_12339.html Aureon Dual USB] (not with USB high speed; add dwc_otg.speed=1 to /boot/cmdline.txt, but that will slow down all USB transfers)<br />
* '''Texas Instruments PCM2704'''<br />
** [http://www.ti.com/product/pcm2704 PCM2704 98&nbsp;dB SNR Stereo USB2.0 FS DAC with line-out and S/PDIF output, Bus/Self-powered]<br />
<br />
==USB 3G Dongles==<br />
* Huawei E173<br />
* Huawei E220<br />
* Huawei E160 (AT commands only)<br />
* Franklin U600 from Sprint / VirginMobile<br />
** Use usb_modeswitch and vendor 0x1fac and product 0x0150/0x0151<br />
* Digicom Internet Key 7.2 HSUPA '''MU372-L01''' [http://www.digicom.it/digisit/prodotti.nsf/itprodottiidx/MU372L01]<br />
Tested on Raspbian and Archlinux. Detected as 230d:0001. Works with cdc_acm driver. Install usb_modeswitch.<br />
There are 2 "com ports"( /dev/ttyACM0 and /dev/ttyACM1 ) . Tested with Network Manager.Works also perfectly with SAKYS3G [http://www.sakis3g.org/] tools (!! led is always off !!) and wvdial. A working wvdial.conf: http://ubuntuforums.org/showpost.php?p=10361881&postcount=28 . (for example for Vodafone IT , replace Init3 with this: Init3 = AT+CGDCONT=1,"IP","web.omnitel.it" and replace line Modem = /dev/ttyUSB0 with Modem = /dev/ttyACM1 ) and run with wvdial voda .<br />
<br />
== USB IR Receivers==<br />
SMK Manufacturing, Inc. eHome Infrared Receiver (Works out of the box with OpenELEC)<br />
<br />
== USB Radio devices==<br />
*FM Radio<br />
** ADS InstantFM Music - FM radio tuner works fine under Debian.<br />
<br />
== USB TV Tuners and DVB devices==<br />
*August<br />
**DVB-T205, based on rtl2832u chipset, working with [https://github.com/ambrosa/DVB-Realtek-RTL2832U-2.2.2-10tuner-mod_kernel-3.0.0 this driver]. Tested with Saorview (Irish DTT service), both HD & SD.<br />
*DVBSky<br />
**[http://dvbsky.eu/Products_S860.html Mystique SaTiX-S2 Sky USB]: Scanning/watching SD and HD works via vdr and streamdev plugin, watching on the Raspberry Pi directly is laggy as hell. DVB-USB and I2C support must be enabled in the kernel. Needs drivers/firmware from [http://dvbsky.eu/Support.html here].<br />
*Sundtek<br />
**Sundtek MediaTV Digital Home<br />
**Sundtek MediaTV Pro<br />
**Sundtek SkyTV Ultimate<br />
**[http://shop.sundtek.de DVB-C, DVB-T, DVB-S/S2]: digital TV works, streaming to Windows / Linux is no problem. Easy installation [http://support.sundtek.com/index.php/topic,4.0.html English]<br />
*Hauppauge<br />
** Hauppauge NOVA-T Stick (Revision 70xxx) DiBcom DiB0700 chipset, requires powered hub.<br />
** Hauppauge NOVA-TD Stick (Revision 52xxx) DiBcom DiB0700 chipset, requires powered hub.<br />
** Hauppauge WinTV-HVR-1950 (tested analog tuner with omxplayer)<br />
** Hauppauge WinTV-HVR-950Q (tested Digital OTA with TVHeadend in Raspbian)<br />
*K-World<br />
** K-World UB499-2T Dual DVB-T USB Tuner. IT9137 chipset. With no other USB devices connected Raspberry Pi can just about power this stick. IR and supplied remote work with XBMC.<br />
*Technisat<br />
**Technisat_SkyStar_USB_HD. Instructions: http://www.linuxtv.org/wiki/index.php/Technisat_SkyStar_USB_HD Used the Raspberry Pi to receive and redirect it via network to another host. Didn't try to play back the stream on the Raspberry Pi itself. Tested with Astra 19.2E radio and SD-TV channels<br />
*Generic<br />
** [http://www.onsources.com/product_images/a/757/watch_and_record_digital_tv_dongle__44323_zoom.jpg DVB-T USB Dongle (Silver casing)], based on AF9015 chipset.<br />
** [http://www.electrodepot.fr/media/catalog/product/cache/1/image/500x/9df78eab33525d08d6e5fb8d27136e95/P926993.jpg DVB-T USB Dongle], based on RTL2832 FC12 (HD/SD), IR was detected, but it is not tested.<br />
<br />
== USB Webcams ==<br />
<br />
This list is not entirely reliable, working does not necessarily mean working without errors. Please contribute with your own experiences!<br />
<br />
===USB Webcams===<br />
<div style="margin: -.3em -1em -1em -1em;"><br />
{| width="100%" bgcolor="#fff" border="0" cellpadding="2px" cellspacing="2px" style="margin:auto;"<br />
|- align="center" bgcolor="#e7eef6"<br />
| '''Brand'''<br />
| '''Name'''<br />
| '''Model Number'''<br />
| '''Hardware ID'''<br />
| '''Verified OS'''<br />
| '''Verified OS version'''<br />
| '''Verified Resolution'''<br />
| '''Additional Information'''<br />
<br />
<br />
|- valign="top" align="left" style="background: #F6D2CF;"<br />
|Canyon<br />
|<br />
|CNR-WCAM820<br />
|<br />
| raspbian/wheezy<br />
|<br />
| 1280x1024<br />
| 2 Mpixel camera with manual focus; works with fswebcam and v4l4j on Raspbian Wheezy armhf; problems with 1600x1200 resolution in some apps (timeouts - probably too slow USB); 1280x1024 and lower resolutions works OK<br />
<br />
|- valign="top" align="left" style="background: #F5FAFF;"<br />
|Creative<br />
|Live! <br />
| VF0470<br />
|<br />
| ArchLinux<br />
| <br />
|<br />
| works out of the box on ArchLinux<br />
<br />
|- valign="top" align="left" style="background: #F6D2CF;"<br />
|Creative<br />
|Live! Cam Socialize HD<br />
| VF0610<br />
|041e:4080<br />
| raspbian/wheezy <br />
| 2012-11-26<br />
| 960x544<br />
| Works at 1280x720 taking stills in fswebcam with some errors using MJPEG, unusable with YUYV. 960x544 works in both MJPEG and YUYV. Has some stabilitiy issues if powered from RasPi (Drops USB +eth0 every 8 or so hours). Helps to append nodrop=1 and timeout=5000 to uvcvideo module.<br />
<br />
|- valign="top" align="left" style="background: #F6D2CF;"<br />
|Creative<br />
|Live! Cam Vista IM<br />
| VF0640<br />
|<br />
| raspbian/wheezy<br />
|<br />
| <br />
| works on Raspbian at 320x240 resolution, 15fps<br />
<br />
|- valign="top" align="left" style="background: #F5FAFF;"<br />
|Creative<br />
|Webcam Notebook<br />
| PD1170<br />
|<br />
| <br />
|<br />
| <br />
| Detects, untested.<br />
<br />
|- valign="top" align="left" style="background: #F6D2CF;"<br />
|Creative<br />
|Webcam Pro<br />
| PD1030<br />
|<br />
| <br />
| <br />
|<br />
| ov519 driver crashes almost immediately. ("gspca: ISOC data error: [0] len=0, status=-4004")<br />
<br />
<br />
|- valign="top" align="left" style="background: #F5FAFF;"<br />
|HP<br />
|WebcamHD-2200<br />
| HD-2200<br />
|<br />
| <br />
| <br />
| <br />
|<br />
<br />
|- valign="top" align="left" style="background: #F6D2CF;"<br />
|HP<br />
|Webcam HP-3100<br />
|HP-3100<br />
|<br />
| <br />
|<br />
| <br />
| UVCVideo /dev/video0 Needs chmod to 666 to operate. Will work without hub if only device in USB ports. Works with both Arch and Wheezy out of the box<br />
<br />
|- valign="top" align="left" style="background: #F5FAFF;"<br />
|Logitech<br />
|Webcam C100<br />
| V-U0013<br />
|<br />
| raspbian/wheezy <br />
| 2012-08-16<br />
| <br />
| works fine without powered hub<br />
<br />
|- valign="top" align="left" style="background: #F5FAFF;"<br />
|Logitech<br />
|Webcam C200<br />
| <br />
| 046d:0802<br />
| <br />
|<br />
| <br />
| <br />
<br />
|- valign="top" align="left" style="background: #F5FAFF;"<br />
|Logitech<br />
|Webcam C270<br />
| <br />
|<br />
|<br />
| <br />
| <br />
| With external power<br />
<br />
|- valign="top" align="left" style="background: #F5FAFF;"<br />
|Logitech<br />
|Webcam C310<br />
| <br />
|<br />
|<br />
| <br />
| <br />
| Does not require a powered hub to capture snapshots<br />
<br />
|- valign="top" align="left" style="background: #F5FAFF;"<br />
|Logitech<br />
|Webcam C510<br />
| <br />
|<br />
| <br />
|<br />
| <br />
| <br />
<br />
|- valign="top" align="left" style="background: #F5FAFF;"<br />
|Logitech<br />
|Webcam C525<br />
| <br />
|<br />
|<br />
| <br />
| <br />
| Works fine without powered hub<br />
<br />
|- valign="top" align="left" style="background: #F5FAFF;"<br />
|Logitech<br />
|Webcam C615<br />
| <br />
|<br />
| <br />
|<br />
| <br />
| Works fine without powered hub<br />
<br />
|- valign="top" align="left" style="background: #F5FAFF;"<br />
|Logitech<br />
|Webcam C905<br />
| <br />
|046d:080a<br />
|occidentalis<br />
|v0.2<br />
|1600x1200<br />
| Works fine without powered hub, she is uncvideo and detected out of box as Video0 V4L device. 1600x1200 is slow rate but he tested with motion.<br />
<br />
|- valign="top" align="left" style="background: #F5FAFF;"<br />
|Logitech<br />
|Webcam C910<br />
| <br />
|<br />
| <br />
|<br />
| <br />
| With external power, is uncvideo<br />
<br />
|- valign="top" align="left" style="background: #F5FAFF;"<br />
|Logitech<br />
|Webcam C920<br />
| <br />
|<br />
| raspbian/wheezy<br />
|<br />
| <br />
| With powered hub, detected out of box as Video0 V4L device<br />
<br />
|- valign="top" align="left" style="background: #F5FAFF;"<br />
|Logitech<br />
|QuickCam Orbit/Sphere<br />
| <br />
|<br />
| <br />
|<br />
| <br />
| Works with external power<br />
<br />
|- valign="top" align="left" style="background: #F5FAFF;"<br />
|Logitech<br />
|QuickCam Pro 9000<br />
| <br />
|<br />
| raspbian/wheezy<br />
|<br />
| <br />
| Powered by RasPi<br />
<br />
|- valign="top" align="left" style="background: #F6D2CF;"<br />
|Logitech<br />
|Webcam Pro 4000<br />
| <br />
|<br />
| <br />
| <br />
| <br />
| It uses pwc driver which does not work. Maybe it's because of general Raspberry Pi USB bug.<br />
<br />
|- valign="top" align="left" style="background: #F6D2CF;"<br />
|Logitech<br />
|Webcam Pro 9000<br />
| <br />
| 046d:0809<br />
| Arch Linux<br />
|<br />
| <br />
| Powered by RasPi, measured ~120 mA current capturing at ~5fps. Has issues capturing images at higher than default resolutions (using motion - Arch and Debian).<br />
<br />
|- valign="top" align="left" style="background: #F5FAFF;"<br />
|Medion<br />
|<br />
| MD86511<br />
|<br />
| raspbian/wheezy <br />
| 2012-07-15<br />
| <br />
| Powered by RasPi<br />
<br />
|- valign="top" align="left" style="background: #F5FAFF;"<br />
|Microsoft<br />
|LifeCam Cinemap 720p USB HD Webcam<br />
| H5D-00001<br />
|<br />
| raspbian/wheezy <br />
|<br />
| <br />
| <br />
<br />
|- valign="top" align="left" style="background: #F6D2CF;"<br />
|Microsoft<br />
|LifeCam HD-5000<br />
| <br />
|<br />
| <br />
|<br />
| <br />
| Picture breaks up at the bottom<br />
<br />
|- valign="top" align="left" style="background: #F5FAFF;"<br />
|Microsoft<br />
|LifeCam HD-6000<br />
| <br />
|<br />
| raspbian/wheezy <br />
|<br />
| <br />
| Powered by USB hub<br />
<br />
|- valign="top" align="left" style="background: #F5FAFF;"<br />
|Microsoft<br />
|LifeCam<br />
| NX-6000<br />
|<br />
| raspbian/wheezy <br />
|<br />
| <br />
| Powered by USB hub<br />
<br />
|- valign="top" align="left" style="background: #F5FAFF;"<br />
|Microsoft<br />
|LifeCam<br />
| VX-7000<br />
|<br />
| raspbian/wheezy <br />
|<br />
| <br />
| Powered by USB hub<br />
<br />
|- valign="top" align="left" style="background: #F6D2CF;"<br />
|Microsoft<br />
|LifeCam<br />
| VX-3000<br />
|<br />
| raspbian/wheezy <br />
|<br />
| <br />
| There do appear to be some issues with image quality and getting partial frames and such, with fswebcam<br />
<br />
|- valign="top" align="left" style="background: #F5FAFF;"<br />
|Microsoft<br />
|LifeCam<br />
| NX-6000<br />
|<br />
| raspbian/wheezy <br />
|<br />
| <br />
| Powered by USB hub<br />
<br />
|- valign="top" align="left" style="background: #F6D2CF;"<br />
|Microsoft<br />
|LifeCam<br />
| VX-800<br />
|<br />
| raspbian/wheezy <br />
|<br />
| 352x288<br />
| Doesn't work at full resolution<br />
<br />
|- valign="top" align="left" style="background: #F6D2CF;"<br />
|Microsoft<br />
|LifeCam Studio/Cinema<br />
| <br />
|<br />
| <br />
|<br />
| <br />
| Has UVC issues detailed here [http://www.ideasonboard.org/uvc/#devices]. Horizontal lines problem [http://www.raspberrypi.org/phpBB3/viewtopic.php?f=63&t=12304]. Stability issues [http://www.raspberrypi.org/phpBB3/viewtopic.php?f=63&t=12247].<br />
<br />
|- valign="top" align="left" style="background: #F5FAFF;"<br />
|Microsoft<br />
|Xbox Live Vision<br />
| <br />
| 045e:0294<br />
| Arch Linux <br />
|<br />
| <br />
| Powered by RasPi<br />
<br />
|- valign="top" align="left" style="background: #F6D2CF;"<br />
|Sony<br />
| Playstation Eye for PS3<br />
| <br />
|<br />
| <br />
|<br />
| <br />
| The occasional frame is corrupted/stutters when running at 640x480<br />
<br />
|- valign="top" align="left" style="background: #F5FAFF;"<br />
|Sony<br />
| Playstation Eye for PS2<br />
| <br />
|<br />
|<br />
| <br />
| <br />
| Occasional 'mangled frame' directly connected to Rev 2 Raspberry P<br />
<br />
|- valign="top" align="left" style="background: #F6D2CF;"<br />
|Sony<br />
| Playstation Eye for PS2<br />
| SLEH 00030<br />
|<br />
| Arch Linux<br />
|<br />
| <br />
| (OV519 camera). Picture constantly breaks up on xawtv and wxcam under Arch Linux. Noted there were ISOC data error len=0 status=-4004 errors in dmesg. This happens when powered from the Raspberry Pi and when powered from a Pluscom USB hub. Arch was updated on 17th July 2012<br />
<br />
|- valign="top" align="left" style="background: #F5FAFF;"<br />
|Trust<br />
| 2 MP Auto Focus Webcam<br />
| <br />
|<br />
| Arch Linux<br />
|<br />
| <br />
| works out of the box<br />
<br />
|- valign="top" align="left" style="background: #F6D2CF;"<br />
|Trust<br />
| SPACEC@M 200<br />
| <br />
|<br />
| Arch Linux<br />
|<br />
| <br />
| (OV511 camera). Picture stops after a few seconds in xawtv under Arch Linux and xawtv reports libv4l2 errors. This happens when powered from the Raspberry Pi and when powered from a Pluscom USB Hub. Arch was updated on 17th July 2012<br />
<br />
<br />
|-<br />
|}<br />
<br />
== USB GPS devices ==<br />
<br />
*Columbus<br />
** Columbus V-800 (MediaTek (MTKII) 3329 GPS chipset) - does not require powered USB hub. Works on Wheezy (using gpsd & gpsd-clients)<br />
*Royaltek<br />
**Royaltek RGM 2000 SiRF2 using the included serial (TTL) to USB - converter. That uses a Profilic pl2303-chip so you'll need to compile the module or the kernel manually<br />
*Garmin<br />
**Garmin eTrex Vista HCx: It works, but it may draw too much power. To get it working (software part): https://wiki.openstreetmap.org/wiki/USB_Garmin_on_GNU/Linux<br />
*GlobalSat<br />
**GlobalSat BU-353 Does not require a powered hub, works fine when directly plugged into the Raspberry Pi. On Raspian, requires the gpsd and gpsd-client packages. For some reason, the gpsd daemon does not always start correctly on boot. You may need to do something like the following to manually restart it:<br /><pre>sudo killall gpsd; sudo gpsd /dev/ttyUSB0 -F /var/run/gpsd.sock</pre><br />
<br />
*Wintec<br />
**WBT-200: No problem on Debian<br />
*Holux<br />
**Holux M-215: Works fine on Arch, uses Silicon Labs CP210x RS232 serial adaptor driver<br />
*Bluenext<br />
**Bluenext BN903S: No problem on Debian image (19-04-2012).<br />
<br />
== USB UART and USB to Serial (RS-232) adapters ==<br />
A USB UART adapter is used to access the serial console of the Raspberry Pi from a development host such as a laptop or desktop PC. The USB end connects to the PC and the UART header end connects to the USB. While it is possible to connect the USB end to another Raspberry Pi, this configuration has not been tested unless explicitly mentioned against an individual entry below.<br />
<br />
*'''FTDI'''<br />
**FT232 chip based adapters works for some people, but others find it hangs Linux when the port is opened. The module is ftdi_sio.<br />
<br />
** FT2232D dual RS232/FIFO works (used in various JTAG devices)<br />
<br />
*'''Prolific'''<br />
**PL2303 chip based adaptors works fine on latest Debian tested with ''minicom'' and ''gtkterm''<br />
<br />
A USB to Serial (RS-232) adapter is used the other way around, ie. the USB end connects to the Raspberry Pi and the RS-232 end (DSUB-9 or DSUB-25 pin) to the other device which may be another computer, (old) modem or printer, or some electronic test equipment.<br />
<br />
*"Best Connectivity" (Possibly also sold under the "Newlink HQ" or "Kenable HQ" labels)<br />
**FG-U1232-PL2 Based upon the Prolific PL2303X chipset and listed by ''lsusb'' as <code>ID 067b:2303 Prolific Technology, Inc. PL2303 Serial Port</code>. Appears as <code>/dev/ttyUSB0</code>, and requires the user to be a member of the ''dialout'' group (which ''pi'' is for ''Raspbian Wheezy''). Initially tested using an old RS Datalinker setup in "loopback" mode via ''microcom'' upto 9600 baud, and ''gtkterm'' after installing that from source code. All handshake lines toggled as expected and no characters were lost. Subsequently ''gtkterm'' was used to check bi-directional communication with an ancient brother EP44 electronic typewriter (as a printer/dumb terminal) at 1200 baud. Signal lines were again monitored with the Datalinker.<br />
<br />
== Other, exotic USB devices ==<br />
=== USB to Parallel Port/Printer Adapters ===<br />
*'''Prolific'''<br />
**PL2305 Chipset with Centronics 36w connector. Originally purchased for use with a netbook and connected to an old Canon BJC-250 printer. Worked fine under [[RPi_Distributions#RISC_OS| RISC OS Raspberry Pi]] with its in-built BJC-250 driver. Could not install the CUPS drivers etc. for Wheezy-Raspbian initially, but was able to do so for Wheezy-armel. Once I'd updated/upgraded Wheezy all was fine.(See notes at [http://www.cpmspectrepi.webspace.virginmedia.com/raspberry_pi/MoinMoinExport/USBtoParPrntAdapter.html CPM-Spectre-Pi...USBtoParPrntAdapter] for more info. and also a [http://www.cpmspectrepi.webspace.virginmedia.com/raspberry_pi/MoinMoinExport/WheezyCUPS.html CUPS/Wheezy installation guide])<br />
<br />
=== USB to SATA ===<br />
*'''Nippon Labs'''<br />
** 2.5" SATA HDD USB Adapter with silicone HDD sleeve. Model: USB-ADT-25SATA. Works on powered Hub, not directly to Raspberry Pi. Built-in "Y" power adapter.<br />
<br />
=== CAN Bus ===<br />
*PEAK-System (www.peak-system.com)<br />
**PCAN-USB using the driver (kernel module) from http://www.peak-system.com/fileadmin/media/linux/index.htm<br />
=== Home automation ===<br />
*Tellstick (www.telldus.com), installation [[R-Pi_Tellstick_core|instructions]]<br />
**Depends on libftdi1<br />
<br />
=== Touch Screen ===<br />
*ACER T230H touch screen [http://support.acer.com/acerpanam/monitor/2009/acer/t230h/t230hnv.shtml]<br />
**USB TS identifies as "Quanta Computer, Inc. Optical dual-touch panel", module hid_quanta<br />
**Seems to draw over 200&nbsp;mA from USB!<br />
=== Floppy Disk Drive ===<br />
*Samsung USB Floppy Drive SFD-321U/HP<br />
**I suppose a floppy drive might be considered exotic nowadays!<br />
**LSUSB lists it as Samsung Electro-Mechanics Co. Floppy Disk Drive<br />
**Only tried connected to a powered USB hub, as the drive is labelled 5&nbsp;V at 0.5&nbsp;A on a Raspberry Pi running Debian Wheezy.<br />
**tail -f /var/log/syslog looking for mount device when plugged in, came up as SDA in testing.<br />
**sudo mkdir /media/floppy<br />
**sudo mount /dev/sda /media/floppy<br />
**Contents of floppy now available in /media/floppy<br />
**To remove drive, ensure no sessions have the floppy directory as the current working directory.<br />
**sudo umount /media/floppy<br />
=== USB Missile Launcher ===<br />
*USB Missile Launcher / Rocket Launcher sold in UK by Marks and Spencer, but it is also sold under a range of other names.<br />
**USB ID 1130:0202 Tenx Technology, Inc. Use apt-get install pymissile (python code) and there is C code at [http://sourceforge.net/projects/usbmissile/ usbmissile from Source Forge]<br />
=== USB Docking Stations ===<br />
*StarTech USB 3.0 to Dual 2.5"/3.5" SATA HDD Dock (SATDOCK2U3GB)<br />
**This is an externally powered dual sata HDD docking station, which has USB2.0 compatibility with the Raspberry Pi. <br />
**Tested with latest Raspbmc and Debian Wheezy Raspbian, 3.1.9+ #168<br />
=== USB RFID Reader ===<br />
*Unbranded 125&nbsp;kHz EM4100 RFID reader from eBay sellers (< £7), the one with a Windows logo on (easily scratches off for Linux users).<br />
**Initially would not work when plugged in directly to Raspberry Pi. Worked when connected via an unpowered Trust hub. Worked after Raspberry Pi was modified with 10K resistors over the USB polyfuses (warranty invalidated). Probably would work fine with powered hub.<br />
**Sends a 10 digit string to current window or console as if it was a keyboard. Can be captured independently of keyboard using Linux event interface (/dev/input), but the kernel in current distributions does not have CONFIG_INPUT_EVDEV selected so kernel rebuild is necessary.<br />
=== JTAG ===<br />
* FTDI2232D dual RS232/FIFO based JTAG (e.g. SheevaPlug JTAGKey USB-ID 9e88:9e8f)<br />
** works using the Raspberry Pi as a development host<br />
=== USB 3.0 Multi-Card Reader ===<br />
* US Robotics All-In-One Multi-Format Card Reader (Product # USR8420) Accepts 5 cards simultaneously<br />
** SD/MMC + MS/MS PRO or DUO/DUO PRO + CF/MD + SM + SD/MMC or MS/MS PRO. Useful for backing up cards containing other OS Distros<br />
<br />
== PS2 / AT to USB Converters ==<br />
<br />
* Unbranded active converter known as the "blue cube". Based on the Cypress CY7C63723C 8 bit RISC. Please see http://geekhack.org/showwiki.php?title=PS2-to-USB+adapters for more information.<br />
Note that although the adapter might work, PS/2 keyboards were not designed to be low power USB devices, so they might not meet the requirement to work with considerable lowered supply voltage (4.4 volt) provided by the USB ports of the raspberry PI. These keyboards should work when powered by a powered hub. <br />
<br />
'''Tested PS2/AT keybords'''<br />
<br />
All above tested with the famous "blue cube" on a powered USB hub.<br />
<br />
*IBM Model F (please note requires an additional AT to PS2 converter)<br />
*Dell AT101w<br />
*Northgate Ominikey Ultra T (please note requires an aditonal AT to PS2 converter)<br />
<br />
* 04d9:1400 Holtek Semiconductor, Inc. PS/2 keyboard + mouse controller<br />
** Working: Ipex RT215KTW PS/2 keyboard<br />
** Not working: HP SK-2502 PS/2 keyboard (gets power, but it does not init - three LEDs remain permanently lit. Keyboard + Holtek converter work on a Linux PC, although this keyboard doesn't work with some native PS/2 ports.)<br />
<br />
== Power adapters ==<br />
The Raspberry Pi uses a standard Micro USB (type B) power connector, which runs at 5&nbsp;V. Generally you can use a MicroUSB to USB cable and then either power the Raspberry Pi directly from your main computers USB ports (if they provide enough power), or by using a USB to Mains adaptor. A number of mobile phones use MicroUSB power cables, and these are compatible with the Raspberry Pi in most cases. Below is a list of power adaptors known to work.<br />
<br />
===Working power Adapters===<br />
* '''Adafruit'''<br />
** 5.25 V 1 A Model 501 (Newark 44W4932) USB 110-240 VAC power supply [4.99-5.01 V @ T1/T2 with 100 mA BT and/or mini wireless-n on RPi USB ports]<br />
* '''AlcaPower'''<br />
** 5&nbsp;V 2.5&nbsp;A Model AP5A - Charger/switching with 7 connectors(also Microusb)<br />
* '''Ansmann'''<br />
*** Dual USB charger slim, Model-Nr. 1201-0001<br />
* '''Apple'''<br />
Note that apple designs its charger products to work optimally as '''chargers''', in practice this means that apple chargers drop their output voltages somewhat with output current, so that the charging circuits do not need to dissipate more heat than is strictly necessary. Because of this, and although many people have reported apple products to power their basic PI setup reliably, its still not an optimal choice for a PI system that uses power hungry USB devices. Also, because of the popularity and high price of these chargers there are many very sub standard, but almost impossible to recognize as fake copies on the market, and some of these fakes are about the worst things you can try to power your PI with! Not only do they not work, they may actually be dangerous to use!<br />
** 5&nbsp;V 2.1&nbsp;A USB charger for iPad2, model A1357<br />
** 5&nbsp;V 1.0&nbsp;A USB Charger for iPod<br />
** 5&nbsp;V 1.0&nbsp;A USB Charger for iPhone 4<br />
* '''Amazon'''<br />
** 5&nbsp;V 0.85&nbsp;A USB charger for Kindle<br />
** 5&nbsp;V 2&nbsp;A Mains to USB A adaptor, Branded "CostMad" <br />
* '''Asus'''<br />
** 5&nbsp;V 2.0&nbsp;A USB charger for Google Nexus 7<br />
* '''Belkin'''<br />
** 5&nbsp;V 2.6&nbsp;A 4 port Ultra-Slim Desktop hub (Model F4U040) (Raspberry Pi running from USB hub port)<br />
** 5&nbsp;V 2.5&nbsp;A 4 port USB Hub (Model F5U404) (Raspberry Pi running from USB hub port)<br />
** 5&nbsp;V 3.5&nbsp;A 7 port USB 2.0 Mobile Powered Hub (Model F4U018) (Raspberry Pi running from USB hub port)<br />
** 5&nbsp;V 3.5&nbsp;A 7 port USB Hub (Model F5U706) (Raspberry Pi running from USB hub port)<br />
** Mini Surge Protector Dual USB Charger (Model BZ103050-TVL)<br />
** Universal USB Wall Charger (5&nbsp;V 1&nbsp;A) (Model F8Z222uk)<br />
* '''Blackberry'''<br />
** Charger for Pearl Flip 8220, Bold 9600 (B)<br />
** Charger for Tour 9630<br />
** 5&nbsp;V 0.7&nbsp;A Model PSM04R-0500CHW1(M), RIM Part Number HDW-17957-003 (B)<br />
** 5&nbsp;V 750&nbsp;mA Model RIM-C-0004aDUUUC-001, RIM Part Number HWD-24481-001 (comes with Blackberry 9300)<br />
** 5&nbsp;V 750&nbsp;mA Model RIM-C-0004ADUUS-001 035D, Single port plug. (Tested with USB B to Micro USB cable from Logitech H760 Headset)<br />
** 5&nbsp;V 2&nbsp;A Model PSAC10R-050QT, RIM Part Number HDW-34725-001<br />
** 5&nbsp;V 550&nbsp;mA curve 8520 charger works with raspberry pi Model B Board v. BS1233. It does not work with Raspbmc image.Symtoms are frequent key board and external hdd disconnects.<br />
* '''Deal Extreme'''<br />
** [http://dx.com/p/5v-2a-regulated-switching-power-supply-110-220v-94518 S-10-5 5&nbsp;V 2&nbsp;A Regulated Switching Power Supply (110~220&nbsp;V)] (DIY: requires additional micro-USB connector and wiring)<br />
* '''Dell'''<br />
** USB Hub integrated in Dell monitors (B)<br />
* '''The FX Factory'''<br />
** 5&nbsp;V 1&nbsp;A (1.2&nbsp;A max) AC Travel Charger Model KJ-USB Mains. Typically provides 4.9&nbsp;V at 1&nbsp;A <ref>[http://www.cpmspectre.pwp.blueyonder.co.uk/raspberry_pi/MoinMoinExport/USBPowerSupplies.html http://www.cpmspectre.pwp.blueyonder.co.uk/raspberry_pi/MoinMoinExport/USBPowerSupplies.html]</ref><br />
* '''Garmin'''<br />
** 5&nbsp;V 1&nbsp;A charger (Model: PSA105R-050Q) supplied with Garmin Edge 800 GPS. Requires a USB-A to MicroUSB-B cable. Belkin 6&nbsp;ft cable (F3U151B06) works.<br />
* '''Globe Electric'''<br />
** 2-Outlet Tap with Surge Protection and 2 USB Chargers ([http://globe-electric.com/product/2-outlet-tap-with-surge-protection-and-2-usb-chargers-grounded-white/ 46082]). Rated at 1000&nbsp;mA. 120&nbsp;V systems only.<br />
* '''Griffin'''<br />
** Power Block Model P2417. 5&nbsp;V 2.1&nbsp;A<br />
** Power Block Model P1190R2 Two USB 5&nbsp;V Outputs, 1&nbsp;A each<br />
* '''Hama'''<br />
** 1000&nbsp;mA Travel Charger for Micro USB universal (barcode nr: 4 007249 935854)<br />
* '''Hartig + Heiling GmbH & Co. KG'''<br />
** H+H SN 6 USB<br />
* '''HP'''<br />
** 5.3&nbsp;V 2&nbsp;A Charger for HP Touchpad (B)<br />
* '''HTC'''<br />
** 5&nbsp;V 1&nbsp;A TCP-300 USB phone charger (B)<br />
** 5&nbsp;V 1&nbsp;A TC B250 USB charger (HTC R/N: 79H00096-00M)<br />
** 5&nbsp;V 1&nbsp;A TC E250 USB charger (HTC R/N: 79H00098-02M)<br />
* '''i-box (Philex Electronic Ltd)'''<br />
** 5&nbsp;V 1&nbsp;A USB charger, 1 USB socket, no USB lead supplied, Model: 76971HS/02 (available from ASDA and others in the UK) (B).<br />
* '''IDAPT'''<br />
** [http://www.idaptweb.com/universal_chargers/i4/ i4 multi device charger] - 3 interchangeable device tips + USB A socket ([https://twitter.com/andrewmk/status/226057302879375361 see it in use])<br />
* '''Innergie'''<br />
**15&nbsp;W Dual USB Adapter. Model: mMini AC15. Output: 5&nbsp;V, 3&nbsp;A (max per port), 15&nbsp;W max. [http://www.myinnergie.com/DuoPowerKit/specification.aspx Specification sheet]<br />
* '''Kodak'''<br />
** 5&nbsp;V 1&nbsp;A TESA5G1-0501200<br />
** 5&nbsp;V 1.0&nbsp;A K20-AM<br />
* '''LG'''<br />
** 4.8&nbsp;V 1&nbsp;A Travel Adapter<br />
** 5.1&nbsp;V 0.7&nbsp;A Travel Adapter (Model: STA-U34WVI)<br />
** 5.1&nbsp;V 0.7&nbsp;A Travel Adapter (Model: STA-U12ER)<br />
* '''Logic'''<br />
** 4 port USB Hub (Model LP4HUB10). (Raspberry Pi running from USB Hub port, red power line (+5&nbsp;V) inside hub cut) (B)<br />
*'''LogiLink'''<br />
**5&nbsp;V 2.1&nbsp;A Switching power supply, model PA0040 (B)<br />
* '''Logitech'''<br />
** 5&nbsp;V 1&nbsp;A SDC115-USB Remote Control Charger and cable<br />
* '''Maplin Electronics'''<br />
** 5&nbsp;V 1&nbsp;A dual USB power supply, model number H25B-MT-K2<br />
** Micro USB Power Supply N19HX<br />
* '''Medion'''<br />
** 5&nbsp;V 1&nbsp;A USB power supply for OYO ebook reader<br />
* '''Microsoft'''<br />
*** Zune Zune AC Adapter v2 <br />
* '''Motorola'''<br />
** [http://www.amazon.com/Motorola-Micro-USB-Home-Travel-Charger/dp/B004EYSKM8/ 5&nbsp;V 0.85&nbsp;A SPN5504 Charger with Cable]<br />
* '''Noname'''<br />
** 5&nbsp;V 2.1&nbsp;A KMS-AC09 4 port USB charger (B) [http://www.miniinthebox.com/kms-ac09-universal-ac-adapter-for-ipad-ipad-2-iphone-white_p208568.html]<br />
** 5.2&nbsp;V 1&nbsp;A MW-3NU10GT - no cable, but this one works well (1m): [http://www.amazon.de/gp/product/B005L8VELA]<br />
** 5&nbsp;V 1&nbsp;A Model H-IP008 Serial No. H10T80L068<br />
* '''Novatel Wireless'''<br />
** 5&nbsp;V 1.05&nbsp;A Charger, model number SSW-1811, packaged with Verizon Wireless MiFi device<br />
* '''Orange'''<br />
** 5&nbsp;V 0.7&nbsp;A Charger for Orange San Francisco<br />
* '''Palm'''<br />
** 5&nbsp;V 1&nbsp;A Charger for Palm Pixi+ (B)<br />
* '''Pantech'''<br />
** 5.0&nbsp;V 1&nbsp;A CNR USB with LG DLC100 micro USB cable<br />
* '''Petzl'''<br />
** 5.0&nbsp;V 1&nbsp;A Charger that came with the Tikka core2 XP<br />
* '''Phihong'''<br />
** Switching Power Supply. Model: PSAC09R-050. Output: 5&nbsp;V, 1.8&nbsp;A, microUSB. [http://www.digikey.com/product-detail/en/PSAC09R-050/993-1109-ND/2635771 Digi-key Link]<br />
* '''PortaPow'''<br />
** PortaPow UK Mains Wall Power Supply<br />
* '''PowerGen'''<br />
** PowerGen Dual Port USB 2.1A 10W AC Travel Wall Charger. [http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0073FCPSK Amazon Link]<br />
* '''Rayovac'''<br />
** Universal USB Charger Model: PS69 100-240 VAC to 5 V 1 A (small cube w/folding plug) works w/wireless keyboard/mouse and mini-Wifi connected<br />
* '''RS Components'<br />
** HNP06UK (RS 7263069) Switching Adapter 5.0&nbsp;V 1200&nbsp;mA<br />
* '''Samsung'''<br />
** 5&nbsp;V 0.7&nbsp;A Charger for Galaxy S model ETA0U10EBE<br />
** 5&nbsp;V 0.7&nbsp;A Charger for Galaxy SII<br />
** 5&nbsp;V 1&nbsp;A Charger for Galaxy SIII<br />
** 5&nbsp;V 1&nbsp;A Charger for Galaxy Nexus<br />
** 5&nbsp;V 0.7&nbsp;A Charger for Galaxy S Vibrant (SGH-T959)<br />
** 5&nbsp;V 0.7&nbsp;A Travel Adapter model ATADU10EBE<br />
** 5&nbsp;V 1&nbsp;A? Samsung C Series TV USB-port for external HDDs. Running stable with openelec<br />
** 5&nbsp;V ?A (Unknown) Samsung Service Port (USB) on LN32A330J1DXZA 720p 32 inch HDTV <br />
** 5&nbsp;V Unknown Ampere Samsung UA22D5000 & UA32D5000 TV USB Port. Test with Raspbian Wheezy, Raspbmc, and RPITC<br />
* '''Shun Shing'''<br />
** 100-240&nbsp;VAC to 5&nbsp;VDC 1&nbsp;A USB power supply, model SP5Q-AU [http://jaycar.co.nz/productView.asp?ID=MP3455 Jaycar]<br />
* '''Sony Ericsson'''<br />
** 5&nbsp;V 0.7&nbsp;A Charger CST-80<br />
** 5&nbsp;V 0.85&nbsp;A Greenheart&#153; Charger EP800. Typically provides 4.8&nbsp;V at 0.85&nbsp;A <ref>[http://www.cpmspectre.pwp.blueyonder.co.uk/raspberry_pi/MoinMoinExport/USBPowerSupplies.html http://www.cpmspectre.pwp.blueyonder.co.uk/raspberry_pi/MoinMoinExport/USBPowerSupplies.html]</ref>.<br />
* '''StarTech'''<br />
** 4 Port USB 2.0 Hub Raspberry Pi can be powered just by plugging USB input into the Raspberry Pi, don't need power in micro USB port.<br />
* '''Travel Charger'''<br />
** 5&nbsp;V 2.0&nbsp;A USB Power Adapter, [http://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B0065JCIPU/ Amazon Link]<br />
* '''Technika'''<br />
** 5&nbsp;V 1&nbsp;A USB Power Adapter, model MPASS01 (B)<br />
* '''The Pi Hut'''<br />
** Micro USB Power Supply for the Raspberry Pi. 5&nbsp;V 1000&nbsp;mA (from [http://thepihut.com/collections/power-supplies The Pi Hut's Raspberry Pi Store]) (also from [http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/330844162509 eBay ])<br />
* '''Trisonic'''<br />
** TS-CP600T - MICRO USB HOME & TRAVEL CHARGER (5&nbsp;V, 800&nbsp;mA) $3 at Daiso U.S. stores.<br />
* '''TruePower'''<br />
** [http://u-socket.com/ U-Socket] 5&nbsp;V 2.1&nbsp;A AC Receptacle with Built-in USB ports (2.1&nbsp;A per USB port) model ACE-7169<br />
* '''Voltcraft'''<br />
** SPS5-12W, 2500&nbsp;mA, requires additional USB <-> miniUSB adapter/cable, works perfectly (bought from [http://www.conrad.de/ce/de/product/512660/VOLTCRAFT-SPS5-12W-Steckernetzteil-Steckernetzgeraet-5-VDC-2500-mA-12-Watt Conrad Shop])<br />
<br />
===Problem power Adapters===<br />
* '''Nokia'''<br />
** 5&nbsp;V 1.2&nbsp;A AC-10A & AC-10E Chargers only provide 4.8V at TP1 & TP2<br />
** [http://accessories.nokia.com/products/nokia-fast-usb-charger-ac-16/ 5&nbsp;V 1&nbsp;A AC-16E Charger] Provides only 4.7V across TP1 & TP2 when at idle<br />
<br />
* '''Masterplug'''<br />
** Masterplug Surge Protected USB Adaptor 2 x 1&nbsp;A USB Polished Black - USB ports and Ethernet don't work with this adapter and some screen artefacts using HDMI.<br />
* '''Monoprice'''<br />
** 5&nbsp;V, 2&nbsp;A 3 Outlet Power Surge Protector Wall Tap with 2 Built-In USB Charger - some display artifacts, sometimes unable to find mouse, some failures to boot. Measured to less than 4.75&nbsp;V between TP1 and TP2 when used with a Monoprice cable.<br />
* '''Sony Ericsson'''<br />
** 5&nbsp;V, 850&nbsp;mA EP800. Some failures to boot, Ethernet loops at boot.<br />
<br />
===Working external Battery packs (with 5&nbsp;V regulated output)===<br />
* '''Anker Astro3'''<br />
** Anker Astro3 10000&nbsp;mAh with dual 2&nbsp;A USB output<br />
* '''Duracell'''<br />
** PPS2 Instant USB Charger<br />
* '''Energizer/XPAL'''<br />
** XP18000 18000&nbsp;mAh Power Pack<br />
* '''Generic - eBay no brand'''<br />
** 6000T Pocket Power 5000&nbsp;mAh - eBay item 271009959140<br />
** Power Bank for iPad/iPhone 5000&nbsp;mAh (looks the same as a New Trent IMP50D or TeckNet iEP380) - eBay item 280914455938<br />
* '''Mophie'''<br />
** 38113BBR Juice Pack Powerstation 4000 mAh: output 2.1 A max: included charging cable powers RPi, 7.5 hrs light use w/keyboard and mini-Wifi on RPi ports<br />
* '''New Trent'''<br />
** iCurve IMP70D 7000&nbsp;mAh (Approx 12&nbsp;hours from full charge)<br />
** IMP120D 12000&nbsp;mAh<br />
* '''Sinoele'''<br />
** Movpower - Power Bank 5200&nbsp;mAh (8&nbsp;hours with Wi-Fi active)<br />
* '''TeckNet'''<br />
** iEP387 Dual-Port 7000&nbsp;mAh External Power Bank (The charging lead can be used to connect the Tecknet to the Raspberry Pi. Ran the Raspberry Pi with Wi-Fi dongle and wireless keyboard receiver for over 9 hours of light use.)<br />
** iEP392 Dual-Port 12000&nbsp;mAh External Power Bank (1&nbsp;A port, ~16.5 hours)<br />
** Rayovac PS60 5&nbsp;V 800&nbsp;mAh<br />
* '''VINZO'''<br />
** Power Bank 5000&nbsp;mAh Grey Output 5&nbsp;V 1000&nbsp;mA<br />
* '''Kodak Power Pack KP1000'''<br />
** 1&nbsp;A USB rechargeable battery pack - see [http://blog.sheasilverman.com/2012/09/its-alive/ Shea Silverman's blog]<br />
<br />
== Display adapters ==<br />
Note that active converter boxes may draw power through the HDMI port, and thus will put an extra load on your PSU, and also increase the current running through the Raspberry Pi's primary input fuse. HDMI ports (and the raspberry PI) are designed so that they deliver a very limited amount of power (50&nbsp;mA) to the TV/Monitor/display-adapter and much more isn't in theory allowed. In fact there is a diode (D1) in series with the power line which can only handle 200&nbsp;mA, if the adapter tries to draw much more than that the diode might fail. Therefore only externally powered adapters are to be recommended. Despite this, many people report success with these high powered devices. If you have bought a non externally powered HDMI to VGA adapter, and you experience problems with it (It behaves badly, D1 burns out, F3 "blows", or your PSU overloads), then not all is lost, there are cheap (a few dollars) adapters that allow you to add external power to the HDMI cable! An example can be found here: [http://dx.com/p/hdmi-male-to-hdmi-female-adapter-w-power-input-port-black-155361].<br />
<br />
===HDMI->DVI-D===<br />
There are three kinds of DVI. There is DVI-D, a digital signal fully compatible with HDMI, so a passive cable can be used. There is DVI-I, which is a connector with both analog pins and digital pins. An HDMI to DVI-D adapter fits in a DVI-I female connector. Finally, there is DVI-A. This a fairly rare connection, but occasionally it will be found on some monitors and is an analog interface, in fact the same as VGA!<br />
<br />
Some adapters like Farnell part AK-CBHD03-BK are HDMI to DVI-I, which, while not fitting in a DVI-D monitor, are still compatible. The analog pins simply must be bent.<br />
<br />
The HDMI to DVI-D cable provided by Apple with the 2010 Mac Mini worked. It does not appear this adapter can be purchased separately.<br />
<br />
* '''The Pi Hut'''<br />
** HDMI to DVI Cable for the Raspberry Pi (from [http://thepihut.com/collections/video-output/products/hdmi-to-dvi-cable-for-the-raspberry-pi The Pi Hut's Raspberry Pi Store])<br />
* '''Other Variants'''<br />
** AmazonBasics HDMI to DVI Adapter Cable (model SK231) works and is inexpensive.<br />
** [http://www.ebay.com/itm/DVI-Female-to-HDMI-Male-Adapter-Converter-Adaptor-Gold-for-HDTV-Full-HD-/320946033059?pt=US_Video_Cables_Adapters&hash=item4ab9dfd1a3 A generic HDMI-to-DVI converter from eBay]. Works well, but it's probably the cause of some power loss between the Raspberry Pi and the monitor, causing [http://elinux.org/R-Pi_Troubleshooting#Interference_visible_on_a_HDMI_or_DVI_monitor this] problem. A setting of config_hdmi_boost='''5''' in /etc/boot solved this. Note that config_hdmi_boost='''4''', as suggested in the troubleshooting guide, helped, but it did not solve the problem completely.<br />
<br />
===HDMI->VGA converter boxes===<br />
Most will require use [[RPi_config.txt]]. Start off with hdmi_safe=1.<br />
<br />
[http://www.element14.com/community/groups/raspberry-pi/blog/2012/08/16/raspberry-pi-hdmi-to-vga-converter Sanoxy HDMI to VGA converter], $27 from Amazon, no changes required with official Raspbian Wheezy image (2012-Jul-15), note: had already disabled overscan previously<br />
<br />
http://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B007KEIRNG -- "Neewer" HDMI to VGA -- some issues discussed below:<br />
However, according to user "Tom1989" the same Neewer HDMI to VGA adapter burned out BAT54 Schottky diode D1 on the Raspberry Pi and broke its HDMI output: [http://www.raspberrypi.org/phpBB3/viewtopic.php?f=28&t=9819 Serious HDMI Problems. What's that smell? Burning Raspberry!]. On that thread, "mahjongg" suggested the NXP (or equivalent) PMEG2010AET as a high-current replacement for D1. The PMEG2010AET has 1&nbsp;A max forward current, much greater than the BAT54's 200&nbsp;mA limit which may be exceeded by your HDMI -> VGA converter. Remember that the converter's current must come from your Raspberry Pi power supply and go through the Micro USB cable and polyfuse F3, so you may get extra voltage drops and/or cause F3 to trip depending on how much current the converter uses. As always with board modifications, YMMV. Also on the "Burning Raspberry!" thread, user "pwinwood" reported the Neewer's current to be 400&nbsp;mA, which is twice the limit of BAT54 diode D1. "pwinwood" also took the Neewer apart and added its own +5&nbsp;V connection adapted from a USB cable, which bypasses Raspberry Pi's Micro USB cable and polyfuse F3.<br />
<br />
* Link to a gallery with detailed images & steps of the same adapter modification: [http://imgur.com/a/sLogs/all HERE] --''by [[User:Pinoccio|Pinoccio]]''<br />
<br />
http://www.amazon.co.uk/KanaaN-Adapter-Converter-Cable-Resolutions/dp/B007QT0NNW -- "Kanaan" HDMI-VGA<br />
<br />
http://www.ebay.com/itm/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=130699741793 -- eBay is swarming with $16 converters all like this one.<br />
<br />
This adapter -- http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/300692770623 -- works from 640x480 up to 1920x1080, audio over HDMI works too.<br />
Sadly the IC's on the PCB have all been scrubbed.<br />
Requires HDMI boost and overscan, [[RPi_config.txt|config.txt]] settings for 640x480 @60&nbsp;Hz:<br />
<br>hdmi_drive=2<br />
<br>hdmi_group=2<br />
<br>hdmi_mode=4<br />
<br>config_hdmi_boost=4<br />
<br>overscan_top=-30<br />
<br>overscan_bottom=-30<br />
<br>overscan_left=-30<br />
<br>overscan_right=-30<br />
<br />
According to user "Mortimer" -- HDFuryPro HDMI to YPbBr/VGA Converter found on Amazon -- http://www.amazon.co.uk/Inputs-Component-Video-YPbPr-Converter/dp/B00797ZZ4S/ -- Works with Raspberry Pi. Tested against a Philips 170B 1280x1024 LCD monitor, producing a full native resolution image. Not tested against a Component Video TV yet, and audio has yet to be got working.<br />
The [[RPi_config.txt|config.txt]] settings used are:<br />
<br>hdmi_drive=2<br />
<br>hdmi_group=2<br />
<br>hdmi_mode=36<br />
<br>disable_overscan=1<br />
<br />
<br />
According to user "Mortimer" -- HDFury1 1080p HDMI to VGA Converter from HDFury.com. I'm not sure the HDFury1 can be got a hold of easily nowadays, I happened to have access to one to try out. HDFury2, 3 and 4 are available as far as I can tell, but it is very pricey compared to the alternatives. HDFury1 was around £80 when we bought one for a project at work. HDFury2 seems to be around £130, 3 and 4 are getting on towards £200 or more. So not to be recommended as a solution unless you happen to have one lying around. I don't believe there is any relationship between the company that produces these and the HDFuryPro I bought for myself (See above). I didn't alter any config settings, just plugged it in. It doesn't work without having its external power supply connected, as it requires 0.4&nbsp;A, which is too much draw for the 5&nbsp;V supply available from the HDMI socket on the Raspberry Pi. Its power LED lights, but no picture is produced. In comparison to the HDFuryPro this picture from this device is sharper, but it is not enough to justify the extra cost.<br />
The [[RPi_config.txt|config.txt]] settings used are:<br />
<br>hdmi_drive=2<br />
<br>hdmi_group=2<br />
<br>hdmi_mode=36<br />
<br>disable_overscan=1<br />
<br />
http://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B007SM7O2U/ref=oh_details_o02_s00_i00 - "Cable Matters"<br />
<br />
Here It is another option: http://www.dealextreme.com/p/hdmi-v1-4-male-to-vga-female-converter-adapter-cable-white-15cm-130458, is cheap (it's free shipping from china) and works perfectly, I tested it with an Acer VGA monitor (AL1511), without no change in my XBMC distribution.<br />
The config.txt for Raspbian (Flatron VGA monitor 1024 * 768):<br />
<br>hdmi_drive=2<br />
<br>hdmi_group=2<br />
<br>hdmi_mode=16<br />
<br>hdmi_force_hotplug=1<br />
<br>disable_overscan=0<br />
<br />
<br />
And another one: http://cgi.ebay.pl/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=251086464644. It is very cheap, but it works perfectly. No config.txt changes was needed at all. I've booted Raspbian and OpenELEC. Monitor is detected correctly and the optimal resolution is set (Raspbian) or you can change the res in the menu (OpenELEC). <br />
The /opt/vc/bin/tvservice is able to read monitor edid data. I tested the adapter using NEC 72VM 15" LCD. (1280x1024 60&nbsp;Hz, 1024x768 60&nbsp;Hz, 640x480 works) The adapter is based on Lontium LT8511A chip, but I was unable to get the specification for it.<br />
The D1 diode is getting very hot though. Most likely the adapter drives more than 200&nbsp;mA. The standard RS Components 1.2&nbsp;A USB power supply is able to provide enough power for the Raspberry Pi and the adapter. I'll try to modify the adapter to connect external power to bypass D1.<br />
Marcin.<br />
<br />
===DVI-D -> VGA active adapters===<br />
None are currently listed<br />
<br />
===Composite->SCART===<br />
SCART adapters (SCART plugs with three RCA connectors in the back), will probably work when used with the yellow RCA plug connected to the Raspberry Pi's RCA video output. Additionally using a splitter cable (3.5&nbsp;mm jack plug on one end, and red-white RCA plugs on the other end) will probably work when plugged into the red and white (left and right audio channels) of the SCART adapter.<br />
<br />
* Generic - works<br />
<br />
===Composite->VGA converter boxes===<br />
* [http://www.extron.com/product/product.aspx?id=dvs204| Extron DVS-204] - works no problem!<br />
<br />
== SD cards ==<br />
<br />
The SD card is a key part of the Raspberry Pi; it provides the initial storage for the Operating System and files. Storage can be extended through many types of USB connected peripherals.<br />
<br />
When the Raspberry Pi is 'switched on', i.e. connected to a power supply, a special piece of code called the bootloader is executed, which reads more special code from the SD card that is used to start up the Raspberry Pi. If there is no SD card inserted, it will not start. Do NOT push in or pull out an SD card while the Raspberry Pi is connected to the power, as this is likely to corrupt the SD card data (you might get away with it, but it is best not to).<br />
<br />
The SD card must be formatted, or written to, in a special way that means the Raspberry Pi can read the data it needs to start properly. If you are new to this check the instructions, or buy a pre-formatted SD card.<br />
<br />
One advantage to using an SD card like this is that you can have several SD cards, each with a different operating system, or a different purpose. Simply power off, switch cards, and reconnect the power. You have a different computer to play with.<br />
<br />
=== Which SD card? ===<br />
<br />
[[File:SD_Card_dimensions.png|right|frameless|SD card sizes]]<br />
<br />
SD cards come in three physical sizes (see picture). The Raspberry Pi needs the largest one. The miniSD card and the MicrSD card can be used in a Raspberry Pi, but you will need an adapter / holder to fit it.<br />
<br />
SD cards come in a range of storage sizes. You need one of type SDHC, but there are other types of SDSC, SDXC and SDIO which will not work in a Raspberry Pi (confirmation needed). The SDHC type comes in memory sizes of up to 32&nbsp;GB.<br />
<br />
There are other properties of SD cards that are not covered here. Read the [http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Secure_Digital Wikipedia article] for those details.<br />
<br />
=== Other SD card content ===<br />
<br />
See the following links for other information:<br />
<br />
* [[RPi_Distributions | Select a Distribution]]<br />
<br />
* [[RPi_Easy_SD_Card_Setup | Easy SD card set up]]<br />
<br />
* [[RPi_Advanced_Setup | Advanced set up]]<br />
<br />
* [[R-Pi_Troubleshooting#SD_cards | Troubleshooting]]<br />
<br />
* [[RPi_Performance#SD_card | SD card Performance]]<br />
<br />
=== Technical Information ===<br />
<br />
Note that manufacturers change their designs over time, even as the specs stay the same. (E.g. an ACME 8&nbsp;GB class 4 card manufactured in 2011 might work, while one manufactured in 2012 might not.)<br />
For this reason, please specify product numbers in the lists below, when possible.<br />
<br />
You can also attach the following fields from your card's CID:<br />
<pre><br />
cd /sys/class/mmc_host/mmc?/mmc?:*<br />
echo "man:$(cat manfid) oem:$(cat oemid) name:$(cat name) hwrev:$(cat hwrev) fwrev:$(cat fwrev)"<br />
</pre><br />
<br />
please merge with http://elinux.org/RPi_Performance#SD_card<br />
<br />
===Preinstalled SD cards===<br />
A wide range of branded SD cards preinstalled with operating systems are available from [http://thepihut.com The Pi Hut's Raspberry Pi Store].<br />
* Raspbian<br />
**[http://thepihut.com/products/raspbian-preinstalled-sd-card Raspbian Preinstalled SD Cards] (Multiple Size/Class choices)<br />
* XBMC<br />
** [http://thepihut.com/products/xbmc-preinstalled-sd-card XBMC Preinstalled SD Cards] (Multiple Size/Class choices)<br />
<br />
<br />
Kingston and other verified SD cards preinstalled with the latest Raspbian operating system are available from many other websites [http://www.amazon.co.uk Amazon UK] and [http://www.ebay.co.uk/ eBay UK].<br />
<br />
===Working SD cards===<br />
<br />
* '''7DAYSHOP.COM''' <br />
** 8&nbsp;GB Professional SDHC Class 10 (man:0x000027 oem:0x5048 name:SD08G hwrev:0x3 fwrev:0x0)<br />
<br />
* '''Adata''' <br />
** 2&nbsp;GB SD Class 2 Speedy (8B0947 printed on back) This card works with every distro I tried. May be old, may not be the fastest, but it is very stable.<br />
** 4&nbsp;GB SDHC Class 4 (BH1109416141G)<br />
** 8&nbsp;GB SDHC Class 2 (MMB3F08GWMCA-GE)<br />
** 8&nbsp;GB SDHC Class 4 (MicroSD with adapter)<br />
** 8&nbsp;GB SDHC Class 6 (MMAGR08GUDCA-DB)<br />
** 8&nbsp;GB SDHC Class 10 (AUSDH8GCL10-R)<br />
** 8&nbsp;GB SDHC Class 10 (ASDH8GCL10-R) Tested on 2012-06-18-wheezy-beta.zip<br />
** 8&nbsp;GB SDHC Class 10 (P-SDH8G10-EC from BJ's USA tested on Raspbian)<br />
** 16&nbsp;GB SDHC Class 6<br />
** 16&nbsp;GB SDHC Class 10 (16GSDHC10)<br />
** 16&nbsp;GB SDHC Class 10 (microSD with adapter AUSDH16GCL10-RA1)<br />
** 32&nbsp;GB SDHC Class 10 (ASDH32GCL10-R) Tested on Wheezy-beta with latest kernel and firmware and Raspbian Wheezy<br />
<br />
* '''AmazonBasics'''<br />
** [http://www.amazon.com/AmazonBasics-SDHC-Class-Secure-Digital/dp/B0058GH0LS 8&nbsp;GB SDHC Class 10 B0058GH0LS]<br />
** [http://www.amazon.com/AmazonBasics-SDHC-Class-Secure-Digital/dp/B0058GH1IK 16&nbsp;GB SDHC Class 10 B0058GH1IK]<br />
** 32&nbsp;GB SDHC Class 10<br />
<br />
* '''Apacer'''<br />
** 8&nbsp;GB microSDHC Class 10 (with adapter)<br />
** 8&nbsp;GB SDHC Class 6<br />
<br />
* '''Centon'''<br />
** 16&nbsp;GB SDHC Class 4 (1447 printed on back)<br />
<br />
* '''CnMemory'''<br />
** 8&nbsp;GB SDHC Class 4 (Silver/Black label says 'High Capacity Card') 84209_8GB_SDHC, bought from Maplins. No error messages seen, but operation is much slower than with a SanDisk 4&nbsp;GB Class 4 card.<br />
<br />
* '''Dane-Elec''' <br />
** 16&nbsp;GB SDHC Class 4<br />
** 16&nbsp;GB Pro 200X Class 10 DEMS16GB2683ENBA<br />
<br />
* '''Dikom'''<br />
** 16&nbsp;GB SDHC Class 10 (serial 207H3MD016IBSD)<br />
<br />
* '''Duracell'''<br />
** 4&nbsp;GB SDHC Class 4<br />
** 16&nbsp;GB SDHC Class 10 (labelled Pro Photo 200x)<br />
** 32&nbsp;GB SDHC Class 10 (man:0x00001d oem:0x4144 name:SD hwrev:0x1 fwrev:0x0) (~4.6&nbsp;MB/s read, ~4.4&nbsp;MB/s write on debian6-19-04-2012, following [[RPi_Performance#SD_card]])<br />
<br />
* '''Emtec''' <br />
** 2&nbsp;GB SD man:0x000027 oem:0x5048 name:SD02G hwrev:0x2 fwrev:0x0<br />
** 4&nbsp;GB SDHC Class 4 (EKMSD4G60XHCN)<br />
** 16&nbsp;GB SDHC Class 10 (EKMSD16G150XHC) (less than half as fast as SanDisk 16&nbsp;GB Class 10)<br />
<br />
* '''Extrememory''' <br />
** 16&nbsp;GB SDHC Class 10 (man:0x000012 oem:0x3456 name:F0F0F hwrev:0x1 fwrev:0x0)<br />
** 32&nbsp;GB SDHC Class 10 (man:0x000003 oem:0x5344 name:SMI hwrev:0x1 fwrev:0x0)<br />
<br />
* '''Eye-Fi'''<br />
** 4&nbsp;GB Wi-Fi SDHC (Wi-Fi doesn't work)<br />
<br />
* '''Fugi''' <br />
** 32&nbsp;GB SDHC Class 10 (P10NM00580A) (man:0x000073 oem:0x4247 name:NCard hwrev:0x1 fwrev:0x0)<br />
<br />
* '''Hama''' <br />
** 2&nbsp;GB SD Class 2<br />
** 8&nbsp;GB SDHC High Speed Pro Class 6<br />
<br />
* '''Hema (Dutch dept. store)'''<br />
** 4&nbsp;GB<br />
** 8&nbsp;GB SDHC Class 4<br />
<br />
* '''Goodram''' <br />
** 8&nbsp;GB microSDHC Class 4<br />
** 16&nbsp;GB microSDHC Class 4 (SDU16GHCAGRR10)<br />
** 16&nbsp;GB SDHC Class 10<br />
<br />
* '''HP'''<br />
** 8&nbsp;GB SDHC Class 4 (doesn't reboot during first time startup process, but restart again and fine after that).<br />
** [http://www.amazon.com/HP-CG790A-AZ-Flash-Memory-Class/dp/B007X7U224 32&nbsp;GB SDHC Class 10] <br />
<br />
* '''ICIDU'''<br />
** 4&nbsp;GB SDHC Class 10 (also had no issues)<br />
** 16&nbsp;GB SDHC Class 10 (image write had issues, might be my inexperience. It boots & shows Xserver)<br />
** 32&nbsp;GB SDHC Class 10 (had no issues whatsoever, the comment above might be a dud.)<br />
** 8&nbsp;GB microSDHC Class 10<br />
** 16&nbsp;GB microSDHC Class 10 (20&nbsp;MB/sec)<br />
** 32&nbsp;GB microSDHC Class 10 (20&nbsp;MB/sec)<br />
<br />
* '''Integral''' <br />
** 4&nbsp;GB SDHC Ultima Pro Class 10<br />
** 4&nbsp;GB SDHC Class 4 SD-K04G (Purple label). Also type SD-MO4G.<br />
** 8&nbsp;GB SDHC Ultima Pro Class 6 (Works - initial error -110, but it boots within 5 seconds with no further errors or issues)<br />
** 8&nbsp;GB SDHC Ultima Pro Class 10 (20&nbsp;MB/s) (Works - initial error -110, but it boots within 5 seconds with no further errors or issues)<br />
** 16&nbsp;GB SDHC Ultima Pro Class 6<br />
** [http://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B0047T6XME 16&nbsp;GB SDHC Class 10 Ultima Pro (20&nbsp;MB/s)]<br />
** 32&nbsp;GB SDHC Ultima Pro Class 10 (20&nbsp;MB/s) - Slow to initially boot past the Rainbow Screen.<br />
<br />
* '''Joyflash''' <br />
** 16&nbsp;GB SDHC Class 10 (LTSD1112016GB)<br />
<br />
* '''Kingmax''' <br />
** 4&nbsp;GB SDHC Class 2<br />
** 4&nbsp;GB microSDHC Class 4 (KM04GMCSDHC4) won`t reboot when it`s hot<br />
** 8&nbsp;GB microSDHC Class 4 (KM08GMCSDHC41A) won`t reboot when it`s hot<br />
<br />
* '''Kingston''' <br />
** 2&nbsp;GB SD<br />
** 2&nbsp;GB microSD (N0185-002.A00LF) + Adapter (File system .img written via Transcend microSDHC "USB stick-like" adapter - P3-102510)<br />
** 4&nbsp;GB microSD Class 4<br />
** 4&nbsp;GB SDHC Class 4 (SD4/4&nbsp;GB) (Writes at 4.8&nbsp;MB/s, Reads at 9&nbsp;MB/s)<br />
** 4&nbsp;GB SDHC Class 10 (SD10V/4&nbsp;GB)<br />
** [http://img341.imageshack.us/img341/1619/dsc0253y.jpg 8&nbsp;GB SDHC Class 4] ([http://img833.imageshack.us/img833/2028/dsc0254br.jpg SD4/8&nbsp;GB]) (Works reliably with Raspbian 28-10-2012 and previous Debian releases) (Writes at 4.8&nbsp;MB/s, Reads at 9&nbsp;MB/s)<br />
** [http://img600.imageshack.us/img600/3849/dsc0251et.jpg 8&nbsp;GB microSDHC Class 4] ([http://img707.imageshack.us/img707/363/dsc0252ld.jpg SDC4/8&nbsp;GB])<br />
** 8&nbsp;GB SDHC Class 6 (SD6/8&nbsp;GB) (errors on boot, boots Debian OK)<br />
** 8&nbsp;GB SDHC Class 10 (SD10G2/8&nbsp;GB, SD10V/8&nbsp;GB, ultimateX 100X, ultimateX 120X)<br />
** 16&nbsp;GB SDHC Class 4 (SD4/16&nbsp;GB)<br />
** 16&nbsp;GB microSDHC Class 10 (SDC10/16&nbsp;GB)<br />
** 16&nbsp;GB SDHC Class 10 (SD10G2/16&nbsp;GB, ultimateX 100X)<br />
** 16&nbsp;GB SDHC Class 10 (SD4/16GBET)<br />
** 32&nbsp;GB SDHC Class 10 (SD10V)<br />
** 32&nbsp;GB SDHC Class 10 (SD10G2/32&nbsp;GB, ultimateX 100X)<br />
** 64&nbsp;GB SDXC Class 10 (SDX10V/64&nbsp;GB)<br />
<br />
* '''Kodak''' <br />
** 4&nbsp;GB SDHC Class 2<br />
** 8&nbsp;GB SDHC Class 4<br />
<br />
* '''Kruidvat''' <br />
** 8&nbsp;GB SDHC Class 4<br />
** 8&nbsp;GB SDHC Class 10 (actually cheaper then the class 4 in my store)<br />
<br />
* '''Lexar''' <br />
** 4&nbsp;GB SDHC Class 4 (Boots consistently and no error messages in log after 1/2 hour use ) (works with Raspbmc)<br />
** 4&nbsp;GB SDHC Class 6 Platinum II (from [http://www.microcenter.com/single_product_results.phtml?product_id=0350735 Microcenter])<br />
** 8&nbsp;GB SDHC Class 4<br />
** 8&nbsp;GB SDHC Class 6 Premium Series<br />
** 8&nbsp;GB SDHC Class 6 Platinum II<br />
** 16&nbsp;GB SDHC Class 6 Platinum II<br />
** 32&nbsp;GB microSDHC HIGH-SPEED Class 10 (from [http://www.amazon.co.uk/Lexar-32GB-Micro-Speed-Reader/dp/B004BR2ZTM Amazon])<br />
** 128&nbsp;GB SDXC UHS-I Card LSD128CTBNA400 (from [http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B007BZRXK2 Amazon])<br />
<br />
* '''Master'''<br />
** 16&nbsp;GB SDHC Class 10 [man:0x000003 oem:0x5344 name:SMI hwrev:0x1 fwrev:0x0]<br />
<br />
* '''Medion'''<br />
** 8&nbsp;GB Class 4 SDHC UK sourced (Aldi)<br />
* '''Microcenter Brand (sold in bins at checkout)'''<br />
** [http://www.microcenter.com/single_product_results.phtml?product_id=0289508 8&nbsp;GB SDHC Class 4]<br />
** [http://www.microcenter.com/single_product_results.phtml?product_id=0349728 8&nbsp;GB SDHC Class 10]<br />
** [http://www.microcenter.com/single_product_results.phtml?product_id=0349729 16&nbsp;GB SDHC Class 10]<br />
<br />
* '''Mushkin'''<br />
** 16&nbsp;GB SDHC Class 10 (MKNSDHCU1-16GB) [http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16820226324]<br />
** 32&nbsp;GB SDHC Class 10 (MKNSDHCC10-32GB) [http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16820226235]<br />
<br />
* '''Mustang'''<br />
** [http://www.mustang-flash.de/Products/Flash%20Products/Secure%20Digital/SD-Card/8GB%20Mustang%20SDHC%20Card%20LeMans%2C%20Class%2010%2C%20Retail|SD8GHCCL10MU-R.html 8&nbsp;GB SDHC Class 10]<br />
<br />
* '''MyMemory''' <br />
** 8&nbsp;GB SDHC Class 10 (MYMESDH8G10) [http://www.mymemory.co.uk/SDHC/MyMemory/MyMemory-8GB-SD-Card-%28SDHC%29---Class-10 MyMemory 8&nbsp;GB class 10] (Latest batch not working)<br />
** 16&nbsp;GB SDHC Class 10 (MYMESDH16G10) [http://www.mymemory.co.uk/SDHC/MyMemory/MyMemory-16GB-SD-Card-(SDHC)---Class-10]<br />
** 32&nbsp;GB SDHC Class 10 [http://www.mymemory.co.uk/SDHC/MyMemory/MyMemory-32GB-SD-Card-%28SDHC%29---Class-10]<br />
<br />
* '''NovaTech'''<br />
** 8&nbsp;GB SDHC Class 10 (Integral Branded)<br />
<br />
* '''OCZ'''<br />
** 8&nbsp;GB SDHC Class 6 Gold Series (08110596-8GB-6) tested with Debian Squeeze (official Raspberry Pi distribution debian6-19-04-2012.zip)<br />
<br />
* '''Optima'''<br />
** 8&nbsp;GB SDHC Class 10 (Pro-Speed)<br />
** 8&nbsp;GB SDHC Class 4 - working from 2012-09-18<br />
<br />
* '''Panasonic''' <br />
** 4&nbsp;GB SDHC Class 4<br />
** 4&nbsp;GB SDHC Class 10 UHS-I (~11.2&nbsp;MB/s read, ~6.2&nbsp;MB/s write, following [[RPi_Performance#SD_card]])<br />
** 8&nbsp;GB SDHC Class 2 (~11.1&nbsp;MB/s read, ~9.7&nbsp;MB/s write, following [[RPi_Performance#SD_card]])<br />
** 8&nbsp;GB SDHC Class 6 (~4.8&nbsp;MB/s read, ~4.4&nbsp;MB/s write, following [[RPi_Performance#SD_card]])<br />
<br />
* '''Patriot''' <br />
** 8&nbsp;GB SDHC Class 6 (PSF8GSDHC10-PC)<br />
** 8&nbsp;GB SDHC Class 10 LX Series (PSF8GSDHC10-PC1)<br />
** 16&nbsp;GB SDHC Class 10 (PSF16GMCSDHC10)<br />
** 16&nbsp;GB SDHC Class 10 LX Series (PSF16GSDHC10) (19.3&nbsp;MB/s read, 9.3&nbsp;MB/s write)<br />
** 16&nbsp;GB microSDHC Class 10 (PSF16GMSHC10) (requires recent kernel update for boot)<br />
** 32&nbsp;GB SDHC Class 10 (PSF32GSDHC10)<br />
** 32&nbsp;GB SDHC Class 10 UHS-1 (PEF32GSDHC10U1) (20.4&nbsp;MB/s read, 12.1&nbsp;MB/s write)<br />
<br />
* '''Peak''' <br />
** 4&nbsp;GB microSDHC Class 4 (MMBTR04GUBCA-ME) tested with Arch<br />
<br />
* '''Philips'''<br />
** 8&nbsp;GB SDHC Class 4 (FM08SD35B)<br />
<br />
* '''Platinum'''<br />
** 4&nbsp;GB SDHC Class 6<br />
** 8&nbsp;GB SDHC Class 6 (man:0x00006f oem:0x0000 name:SMI hwrev:0x1 fwrev:0x0)<br />
** 64&nbsp;GB SDCX Class 10<br />
<br />
* '''Play.com''' <br />
** 4&nbsp;GB SDHC Class 6 (S4E3CD04GEFAA 0907090121106)<br />
<br />
* '''PNY''' <br />
** 4&nbsp;GB SDHC Class 4<br />
** 4&nbsp;GB SDHC Class 4 Optima (SD-K04G 0834TT1297Y)<br />
** 4&nbsp;GB SDHC Class 4. Micro SD card with adapter.<br />
** 8&nbsp;GB SDHC Class 6<br />
** 8&nbsp;GB SDHC Class 10. Micro SD card with adapter.<br />
** 16&nbsp;GB SDHC Class 4<br />
** 16&nbsp;GB SDHC Class 10 (P-SDHC16G10-GE)<br />
*** See the note for P-SDHC16G10-EF. Works with Wheezy, does not work with Squeeze, Arch, or Fedora Remix. <br />
** 16&nbsp;GB SDHC Class 10 (P-SDHC16G10-EF) <br />
*** Works with [http://www.raspberrypi.org/archives/1435 Debian Wheezy]<br />
*** Does not work with Debian Squeeze (debian6-19-04-2012: mmc0: timeout waiting for hardware interrupt).<br />
*** Does not work with Arch Linux Arm (archlinuxarm-29-04-2012: no video is displayed, solid red power light, tiny green light)<br />
** 16&nbsp;GB SDHC Class 10 Pro-Elite (P-SDH16U1-30-GE). Works with Raspbmc, haven't tested others.<br />
** 32&nbsp;GB SDHC Class 10 (P-SDHC32G10-GE). Works with Arch 2012-09-18 and Raspbian 2012-12-16.<br />
<br />
* '''pqi'''<br />
** 8&nbsp;GB SDHC Class 6 <br />
*** Works with official debian6-19-04-2012<br />
<br />
* '''PRETEC''' <br />
** 8&nbsp;GB SDHC Class 10 (8DK52-122ME)<br />
<br />
* '''Samsung''' <br />
** 4&nbsp;GB SDHC<br />
** 8&nbsp;GB SDHC Class 6 (MB-SS8GAEU)<br />
** 8&nbsp;GB SDHC Class 10 (MB-MP8GA, MB-SP8GA/EU, MB-SP8GA/AM)<br />
** 16&nbsp;GB SDHC Class 6 (MB-SSAGAEU)<br />
** 16&nbsp;GB SDHC Class 10 (MB-SPAGA AKA MB-SPAGAEU)<br />
** 32&nbsp;GB SDHC Class 10 (MB-SSBGA, MBSSBGVEOBGA-SH) fine with [http://www.raspberrypi.org/phpBB3/viewtopic.php?f=50&t=8071 Debian Wheezy], but it does not work with Debian Squeeze (debian6-19-04-2012: mmc0: timeout waiting for hardware interrupt).<br />
<br />
* '''SanDisk''' <br />
** 2&nbsp;GB SD, white "SanDisk for Wii" branded, no class mentioned<br />
** 2&nbsp;GB SD (with a circle 2 --probably class 2), writes at 3.5&nbsp;MB/s<br />
** 2&nbsp;GB SD Class 2 (BE0816113150D)<br />
** 2&nbsp;GB SD Class 4 Ultra (15&nbsp;MB/s)<br />
** 2&nbsp;GB SD Class 4 Ultra II<br />
** 2&nbsp;GB SD Ultra II (BE0719111366D)<br />
** 2&nbsp;GB SD Extreme III (BE0715105083B)<br />
** 2&nbsp;GB SD Extreme III (BE0804212046D) - 20&nbsp;MB/s - Class 6<br />
** 4&nbsp;GB SDHC Class 2 (BH0820113475D) - Tested with RPITC (Based on Raspbian Wheezy)<br />
** 4&nbsp;GB SDHC Class 4 (SDSDB-004G-B35)<br />
** 4&nbsp;GB SDHC Class 4 (SDSDB-004G-BT35). Confirmed working with stock debian6-19-04-2012.img<br />
** 4&nbsp;GB SDHC Class 4 (BH1210821913G)<br />
** 4&nbsp;GB SDHC Class 4 (SDSDH2-004G-AC11, BH1127216239D) Costco 2-pack, booting Wheezy 2012-07-15<br />
** 4&nbsp;GB SDHC Class 4 Ultra (SDSDH-004G-U46) won`t reboot when it`s hot<br />
** 4&nbsp;GB SDHC Class 4 Ultra II<br />
** 4&nbsp;GB SDHC Class 6 Extreme III labelled as 30&nbsp;MB/s works with (B) 2012-10-28-Wheezy-raspbian<br />
** 4&nbsp;GB SDHC Class 6 Ultra 30&nbsp;MB/s BH1200421822D)<br />
** 4&nbsp;GB SDHC Class 6 Ultra (SDSDH-004G-U46 - BH1136121837G, BH1130521822D)<br />
** 4&nbsp;GB SDHC Class 10 Extreme (BH10297143382G)<br />
** 8&nbsp;GB SDHC Class 4 (writes at ~1.5&nbsp;MB/s)<br />
** 8&nbsp;GB SDHC Class 4 Ultra labelled as 15&nbsp;MB/s (BI1024716014G)<br />
** 8&nbsp;GB SDHC Class 6 Ultra <br />
** 8&nbsp;GB SDHC Class 6 micro - MMAGR08GUDCA-DB<br />
*** also SDSDH-008G-U46 - BI1131222083D see [http://www.raspberrypi.org/phpBB3/viewtopic.php?p=88625#p88625 update from andrew.blake]<br />
*** except SDSRH-008G-A11 could be problematic, see below<br />
** 8&nbsp;GB SDHC Class 6 Ultra labelled as 20&nbsp;MB/s (BI11321422083D)<br />
** 8&nbsp;GB SDHC-I Class 6 Ultra labelled as 30&nbsp;MB/s (SDSDH2-008G-AC11)<br />
*** requires updated Squeeze or Wheezy beta<br />
** 8&nbsp;GB SDHC Class 10 Extreme (BI11017514367G)<br />
** 8&nbsp;GB SDHC Class 10 Extreme (B11209116254G) - Managed to get it working with Raspbian R3 [http://archive.raspbian.org/images/rpi_pisces_r3.zip rpi_pisces_r3.zip] however does not work with official Squeeze nor Arch linux.<br />
** 8&nbsp;GB SDHC Class 10 Extreme (30&nbsp;MB/s HD Video) - working with new [https://github.com/raspberrypi/firmware/blob/9308c7ed387e5422883753f7fb71a75506abd1f8/boot/bootcode.bin bootcode.bin]. Confirmed on 2012-07-10 for Debian Squeeze 2012-04-19 and Arch Linux 2012-06-13 images (BI1130916254G).<br />
** 8&nbsp;GB SDHC Class 10 Ultra(30&nbsp;MB/s) (SDSDU-008G-U46) - Works with stock debian6-19-04-2012 or Raspbian images but not with OpenELEC r11212 (works with OpenELEC r11493)<br />
** 8&nbsp;GB SDHC Class 10 Ultra(30&nbsp;MB/s) (SDSDU-008G-UDQ46) - Works with stock 2012-09-18-Wheezy-Raspbian<br />
** 8&nbsp;GB SDHC Class 10 Extreme (SDSDX-008G-X46/BI1218822414G) - Works with stock 2012-08-16-Wheezy-Raspbian<br />
** 8&nbsp;GB SDHC Class 10 Extreme Pro (95&nbsp;MB/s UHS-I) (SDSDXPA-008G-X46) - Works with stock 2012-07-15-Wheezy-Raspbian<br />
** 16&nbsp;GB SDHC Class 4<br />
** 16&nbsp;GB SDGC Class 4 (SDSDB-016G-B35) - working with [https://github.com/raspberrypi/firmware/blob/234c19de7cbaaf4997671d61df20a05759066295/boot/bootcode.bin bootcode.bin]. Confirmed on 2012-07-15 for Debian Squeeze 2012-04-19<br />
** 16&nbsp;GB SDHC Class 6 Ultra (30&nbsp;MB/s) (BL1133921933G) - Work with OpenELEC r11324<br />
** 16&nbsp;GB SDHC Class 10 Ultra(30&nbsp;MB/s) (SDSDU-016G-U46) - Work with stock debian6-19-04-2012 image. Gave Kernel Panic with stock debian6-19-04-2012 image. Worked fine with Wheezy image.<br />
** 16&nbsp;GB SDHC Class 10 Extreme (30&nbsp;MB/s HD Video) (SDSDX3-016G-X46) - Works with 2012-06-18-wheezy-beta.img and updated firmware (tested 2012-07-02)<br />
** 16&nbsp;GB SDHC Class 10 Extreme (45&nbsp;MB/s U1) (BL1203322025G) - Works with 2012-08-16-wheezy-raspbian.img (tested 2012-09-15). Doesn't work with stock debian6-19-04-2012 image, but it does work with a freshly compiled kernel.<br />
** 16&nbsp;GB SDHC Class 10 Extreme (45&nbsp;MB/s) (SDSDX-016G-X46) (UPC 619659062224) - Works with 2012-09-18-wheezy-raspbian.img (tested 17/10/2012). <ins datetime="2012-11-22T22:08+11:00">Working with Raspbmc RC5 if writing standalone image; working with Raspbian “Wheezy”.</ins><br />
** 16&nbsp;GB SDHC Class 10 Extreme (45&nbsp;MB/s) (SDSDXPA-016G-FPP) - Working with latest RaspBMC image (tested 12/09/2012) [http://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B00422J0CG/ref=oh_details_o00_s00_i00 Amazon Link]<br />
** 16&nbsp;GB SDHC Class 10 Extreme Pro (95&nbsp;MB/s UHS-I) (SDSDXPA-016G-A75) - Doesn't work with stock debian6-19-04-2012 image, but it does work with a freshly compiled kernel.<br />
** 32&nbsp;GB SDHC Class 4<br />
** 32&nbsp;GB SDHC Class 6<br />
** 32&nbsp;GB SDHC Class 10 Ultra (30&nbsp;MB/s) - Works with stock debian6-19-04-2012 image<br />
** 32&nbsp;GB SDHC Class 10 Extreme (45&nbsp;MB/s UHS-I) (SDSDX-032G-X46) - works with arch-04-29-image and latest firmware (booting problems without firmware update)<br />
** 64&nbsp;GB SDXC Class 10 Extreme (45&nbsp;MB/s UHS-I) (SDSDX-064G-X46) - works with 2012-07-15-Wheezy-Raspbian<br />
** microSDHC / microSDXC<br />
*** 4&nbsp;GB microSDHC Class 2<br />
*** 4&nbsp;GB microSDHC Class 4<br />
*** 8&nbsp;GB microSDHC Class 2<br />
*** 8&nbsp;GB microSDHC Class 4<br />
*** 8&nbsp;GB microSDHC Class 6 Mobile Ultra (SDSDQY-008G-U46A) working with the latest firmware, won`t reboot when it`s hot<br />
*** 8&nbsp;GB microSDHC Class 10 Ultra(30&nbsp;MB/s) (SDSDQU-008G-U46) tested and working on Raspbian Wheezy (and RaspBMC)<br />
*** 16&nbsp;GB microSDHC Class 10 Mobile Ultra (SDSDQUA-016G-U46A) working with the latest firmware<br />
*** 32&nbsp;GB microSDHC Class 4 (SDSDQM-032G-B35)<br />
*** [http://img217.imageshack.us/img217/6435/dsc0255uc.jpg 64&nbsp;GB microSDXC Class 6 Mobile Ultra] (SDSDQY-064G-A11A) (boots up much more consistently with latest firmware)<br />
<br />
* '''Silicon Power''' <br />
** 4&nbsp;GB microSDHC Class 6 (SP004GBSTH006V10-SP)<br />
** 8&nbsp;GB microSDHC Class 10 (S608G1202)<br />
** 16&nbsp;GB microSDHC Class 10 (SP016GBSTH010V10)<br />
** 16&nbsp;GB SDHC Class 10 (SP016GBSDH010V10)<br />
<br />
* '''Sony'''<br />
** 4&nbsp;GB SDHC Class 4 (SF-4B4) (Write 6&nbsp;MB/s, Read 20&nbsp;MB/s)<br />
** 4&nbsp;GB SDHC Class 4 (SF-4N4)<br />
** 8&nbsp;GB SDHC Class 4 (Write 11.8&nbsp;MB/s, Read 17.4&nbsp;MB/s)<br />
** 8&nbsp;GB SDHC UHS-1 Class 10 (Write 17.2&nbsp;MB/s, Read 20.8&nbsp;MB/s)<br />
** [http://store.sony.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/ProductDisplay?catalogId=10551&storeId=10151&langId=-1&partNumber=SF32NX/TQ#features 32&nbsp;GB SDHC Class 10 (SF-32NX/TQ)] (Max read speed of ~94&nbsp;MB/s, min write speed of ~10&nbsp;MB/s) - Works with archlinuxarm-29-04-2012 dd image with latest firmware update (as of 10-06-2012) <br />
** 8&nbsp;GB SDHC UHS-1 Class 10 (Write 17.2&nbsp;MB/s, Read 20.8&nbsp;MB/s)<br />
<br />
* '''Strontium'''<br />
** 8&nbsp;GB SDHC Class 10 (SD-T08G 1045 US6923 G (White Shell - SKU 8 886450 703492))<br />
* '''Super Talent'''<br />
** 32&nbsp;GB Secure Digital High Capacity SDHC Card (Class 10), Model SDHC32-C10 SKU: 116-557-001 (works with Raspbmc RC4 and 2012-07-15-Wheezy-Raspbian))<br />
<br />
* '''TakeMS'''<br />
** 4&nbsp;GB microSDHC Class 4 (with adapter) [http://www.takems.com/products.php?categ=flash&prod=Micro_SDHC-Card Micro SDHC Class 4 + 1 Adapter(Order No.88662)]<br />
<br />
* '''TDK'''<br />
** 4&nbsp;GB SDHC Class 4 (1008WW5261B)<br />
** 4&nbsp;GB SDHC Class 4 (80-56-10275-004G,Debian works '''BUT''' mmc0 errors when booting Fedora)<br />
** 4&nbsp;GB microSDHC Class 4 (80-56-10301-004G)<br />
** 4&nbsp;GB SDHC Class 6 (S404G1113) - Works with Debian Wheezy (2012-06-18 beta), not tried latest OpenELEC yet.<br />
** 8&nbsp;GB SDHC Class 10 - Works with Raspbian 2012-07-15<br />
** SanDisk 64&nbsp;GB Class 10 Ultra SDXC UHS-I FFP (3A114807)<br />
<br />
* '''Toshiba'''<br />
** 8&nbsp;GB mircoSDHC SD-C08GJ(BL3A<br />
** 16&nbsp;GB SDHC Class 10 SD-T16G (1046 US7022 C)<br />
<br />
* '''Transcend'''<br />
** 4&nbsp;GB SDHC Class 4 - we've found these to work without any errors and offer reasonable performance<br />
** 4&nbsp;GB SDHC Class 4 (TS4GSDHC4 - BH1130821915G)<br />
** 4&nbsp;GB SDHC Class 6 (TS4GSDHC6) - no problems. (does not work with Raspbmc as of 6/1/12)<br />
** 4&nbsp;GB SDHC Class 10 (TS4GSDHC10E)<br />
** [http://www.mymemory.co.uk/SDHC/Transcend/Transcend-8GB-SD-Card-(SDHC)---Class-4 8&nbsp;GB SDHC Class 4] (TS8GSDHC4) (man:0x000003 oem:0x5344 name:SD08G hwrev:0x8 fwrev:0x0) - works with both Debian "squeezy" and Raspbian "Wheezy" distributions.<br />
** 8&nbsp;GB SDHC Class 6 (~5.8&nbsp;MB/s read/write following [[RPi_Performance#SD_card]])<br />
** 8&nbsp;GB SDHC Class 6 (TS8GSDHC6-P2 - MMBFG08GWACA-M6)<br />
** 8&nbsp;GB SDHC Class 10 (TS8GSDHC10) [http://www.mymemory.co.uk/SDHC/Transcend/Transcend-8GB-SD-Card-%28SDHC%29---Class-10- Transcend 8G class 10]<br />
** 16&nbsp;GB SDHC Class 6 (TS16GSDHC6)<br />
** 16&nbsp;GB SDHC Class 10 (TS16GSDHC10)(TS16GSDHC10E)(man:0x000074 oem:0x4a45 name:SDC hwrev:0x1 fwrev:0x0)<br />
** [http://www.transcend.com.es/tarjetas-de-memoria/sd-sdhc/32gb-sdhc-class-10 32&nbsp;GB SDHC Class 10] (TS32GSDHC10)(TS32GSDHC10E)<br />
** 64&nbsp;GB SDXC Class 10 (TS64GSDXC10)<br />
<br />
* '''Verbatim'''<br />
** 8&nbsp;GB SDHC Class 10 (43961)<br />
** 16&nbsp;GB SDHC Class 4 (44020)<br />
** 16&nbsp;GB SDHC Class 10 (43962)<br />
** 32&nbsp;GB SDHC Class 6 (44032)<br />
<br />
*'''Traveler'''<br />
**4&nbsp;GB High Speed Memory Card - no class mentioned. No problems. Tested with Raspbian.<br />
<br />
* '''The Pi Hut'''<br />
** SanDisk 4GB Class 4 - preinstalled with Raspbian Wheezy Linux. (from [http://thepihut.com/products/raspbian-preinstalled-sd-card The Pi Hut's Raspberry Pi Store])<br />
** SanDisk 8GB Class 4 - preinstalled with Raspbian Wheezy Linux. (from [http://thepihut.com/products/raspbian-preinstalled-sd-card The Pi Hut's Raspberry Pi Store])<br />
** SanDisk 16GB Class 4 - preinstalled with Raspbian Wheezy Linux. (from [http://thepihut.com/products/raspbian-preinstalled-sd-card The Pi Hut's Raspberry Pi Store])<br />
** SanDisk 32GB Class 4 - reinstalled with Raspbian Wheezy Linux. (from [http://thepihut.com/products/raspbian-preinstalled-sd-card The Pi Hut's Raspberry Pi Store])<br />
<br />
* '''V-Gen'''<br />
** 8&nbsp;GB microSDHC - no class mentioned. No problems.(man:0x000073 oem:0x4247 name:NCard hwrev:0x1 fwrev:0x0). Tested with Raspbian Wheezy & Raspbmc. <br />
<br />
* '''Veho (http://www.veho-uk.com)'''<br />
** 8&nbsp;GB "Ultra Fast" Class 6. (man:0x00001b oem:0x534d name:00000 hwrev:0x1 fwrev:0x0) 7.8&nbsp;MB/s. Slow but tested with Arch Linux.<br />
<br />
* '''W Photo (Walgreens photo)'''<br />
** 1&nbsp;GB SD memory card. Works with Raspbmc, have not tested others.<br />
** 2&nbsp;GB SD memory card. Works with Raspbian, not tested with others.<br />
<br />
Known good (and pre-loaded) cards will be available for sale from RS and element14 at a ''later'' date (TBA).<br />
<br />
===Problem SD cards===<br />
<br />
Make sure that you buy your card from a reliable source. There are many cheap Chinese copies of (brand name) SD-Cards on the market, [http://www.petapixel.com/2011/05/20/one-third-of-the-sandisk-memory-cards-on-earth-are-counterfeit/] in addition they are often mislabeled as having greater capacity than they really have. For example they might be sold as being 4&nbsp;GB, but they are actually 2&nbsp;GB (or even less). <br />
<br />
There were initially issues with most Class 10 SDHC cards, apparently due to a bug in the Broadcom bootloader.[http://www.raspberrypi.org/forum/general-discussion/class-10-sd-cards-on-the-production-boards/page-3/#p39181]<br />
<br />
This seems to have been fixed in sdhci.c: [https://github.com/raspberrypi/linux/commit/7e8ae226fe6e95954df6b0dcdde40a53dbbc1a0b] Further feedback will be useful.<br />
<br />
If you add an SD card here, please also mention the kernel date and the date you tried it. This allows people to estimate how likely it is that a driver-fix in the kernel has been fixed. (i.e. I think some/most of the cards here work fine now, because a problem in the kernel driver has been fixed). <br />
<br />
* '''Acumem'''<br />
** 8&nbsp;GB SDHC Class 6 (many errors on 6/7/2012)<br />
* '''Adata'''<br />
** 2&nbsp;GB Speedy (MMAGF02GWMCA -NA)<br />
** 8&nbsp;GB SDHC Class 6 - Sometimes boots<br />
** 16&nbsp;GB SDHC Class 6 (Possibly SD5MY168G0, label with gold <> black gradient) - Doesn't boot<br />
* '''Agfa'''<br />
** 16&nbsp;GB MicroSDHC class 6 (as written on SD-Adapter, MicroSD card itself no-name? ENAAJK121960): mixed results, such a card was working on another Raspberry Pi.<br />
* '''Amazon Basics'''<br />
** 16&nbsp;GB SDHC Class 10 (many errors on 6/7/2012)<br />
* '''Delkin Devices'''<br />
** 4&nbsp;GB SDHC Class 6 "Delkin pro" -- Note: works with Fedora Beefy Miracle 17<br />
* '''GSkill'''<br />
** 32&nbsp;GB SDHC Class 10<br />
* '''Integral'''<br />
** 16&nbsp;GB SDHC Class 6 Ultima Pro (SH016GAA2BB)<br />
** 4&nbsp;GB SDHC class 4 (S404G1115)<br />
* '''Kingston''' <br />
** 2&nbsp;GB SD [http://www.geeks.com/details.asp?invtid=KING-SD-M02G-BULK looks like this] - it boots the kernel, but it damages the filesystem.<br />
** 4&nbsp;GB SDHC Class 6 - Boots kernel, but it won't run init (times out)<br />
** 8&nbsp;GB/Go SDHC Class 10 - SD10V/8&nbsp;GB Very slow writing images to card and then either won't boot, or boots very slowly<br />
** 16&nbsp;GB SDHC Class 4 (SDC4/16&nbsp;GB) - Reported earlier as not working. Stable and works well with all Debian/Raspbian releases <br />
** 16&nbsp;GB SDHC Class 10 (SD10V/16&nbsp;GB) - Starts boot OK, but then gets stuck in mmc0 timeouts.<br />
* '''Memory2GO'''<br />
** 4&nbsp;GB SDHC Class 6 (S404G1029) - I/O Errors leading to Kernel Panic on startup.<br />
* '''Micro Center'''<br />
**4&nbsp;GB SDHC Class 4 — hasn't worked with any of the images I've tried; appears to be completely unrecognized<br />
* '''MyMemory.com''' <br />
** 8&nbsp;GB SDHC Class 10<br />
<br />
* '''Optima''' <br />
** <del>8&nbsp;GB SDHC Class 4 - Does not boot with Raspbian Wheezy 2012-07-15</del> - works with 2012-09-18 <br />
<br />
* '''Panasonic''' <br />
** 8&nbsp;GB SDHC Class 10 (RP-SDU08GD1K) mmc0: timeout waiting for hardware interrupt [http://www.mymemory.co.uk/SDHC/Panasonic/Panasonic-8GB-UHS-1-London-2012-Collection-SDHC-Card---Class-10 Panasonic 8&nbsp;GB Class 10]<br />
* '''Patriot''' <br />
** 8&nbsp;GB SDHC Class 6 (PS8GSDHC10-BC) - repeatable corruption after 1 or 2 reboots with 2012-07-15-Wheezy-Raspbian<br />
** 8&nbsp;GB SDHC Class 10 (PSF8GSDHC10)<br />
** 8&nbsp;GB SDHC Class 10 (PSF8GSDHC10-PC) - won't even boot 2012-08-16-Wheezy-Raspbian (mmc0: timeout waiting for hardware interrupt, followed by continuous I/O errors, timeouts, etc.). It seems functional in Arch, but sometimes it freezes at the beginning of boot (blinking underscore).<br />
* '''Platinum''' <br />
** 8&nbsp;GB SDHC Class 8 (O08G840 M3100487 TW)<br />
** 16&nbsp;GB SDHC Class 10 (article code 177117) - Does not boot with Raspbian Wheezy 2012-09-12<br />
* '''PNY'''<br />
** 8&nbsp;GB Optima SDHC 120 HD Class 4 SD-K08G 0928 WF3673 - mmc -110 errors at init time on 6/12/12<br />
** 8&nbsp;GB Premium SDHC Class 4 - mmc - mmc0: timeout waiting for hardware interrupt<br />
** 32&nbsp;GB SDHC Class 10 Professional (P-SDHC32G10-EF) from [http://www.play.com/Electronics/Electronics/4-/18814903/-/Product.html play.com] (mmc0 timeout with Debian, error -84 whilst initialising sd card with Fedora and QtonPi. Arch seems to work, gets to the login prompt)<br />
** 2&nbsp;GB card SD-M02G<br />
* '''Polaroid'''<br />
** 16&nbsp;GB SDHC C10 (P-SDHC16GB10-EFPOL) - mmc0: timeout waiting for hardware interrupt on debian6-19-04-2012<br />
* '''PRETEC''' <br />
** 8&nbsp;GB SDHC Class 10 233x - mmc0: timeout waiting for hardware interrupt, Sometimes does not boot, kernel panic, ...<br />
* '''Reekin'''<br />
** 4&nbsp;GB HighSpeed SH4GC6M16MIN9C0812TE (old) don't boot ! (11/07/2012)<br />
* '''Samsung'''<br />
** 4&nbsp;GB SDHC Class 4 (MB-SS4G MBSS4GMBDDBA-DD) doesn't boot with [http://downloads.raspberrypi.org/images/raspbian/2012-07-15-wheezy-raspbian/2012-07-15-wheezy-raspbian.zip 2012-07-15-wheezy-raspbian] - OK light partially lit.<br />
** 32&nbsp;GB SDHC Class 10 (MB-SSBGA, MBSSBGVEOBGA-SH) does not work with Debian Squeeze (debian6-19-04-2012: mmc0: timeout waiting for hardware interrupt), but it works fine with [http://www.raspberrypi.org/phpBB3/viewtopic.php?f=50&t=8071 Debian Wheezy]<br />
* '''SanDisk''' <br />
** 2&nbsp;GB SD Extreme III (BE0722702998D) (man:0x000003 oem:0x5344 name:SD02G hwrev:0x8 fwrev:0x0) - tested with Raspbian (build 2012-07-15) and Raspbmc installer (build 2012-07-13)<br />
** 2&nbsp;GB SD (BE0916214253D)<br />
** 2&nbsp;GB Ultra || 15&nbsp;MB/s (BE0828713280D)<br />
** 4&nbsp;GB SDHC Class 2 - Debian and XBMC boot, but Fedora gets a lot of mmc0 note long write sync errors and then hc_xfer_timeout errors at the login prompt.<br />
** 4&nbsp;GB SDHC Class 2 "Limited Edition" (8H825413279G) - Error -110 whilst initialising sd card<br />
** 4&nbsp;GB SDHC Class 4 (BH1030216016G) - Doesn't boot.<br />
** 4&nbsp;GB SDHC Class 4 (BH1031116016G) - Doesn't boot.<br />
** 4&nbsp;GB SDHC Class 6 Extreme (BH0822411730D)<br />
** 4&nbsp;GB SDHC Class 6 Extreme III (30&nbsp;MB/s) (BH0822712362G)<br />
** 4&nbsp;GB SDHC Class 10 Extreme (SDSDX-004G-X46) (30&nbsp;MB/s HD Video) doesn't boot (also not with new kernel.img and start.elf 17-06-2012 or "Wheezy"-beta)<br />
** 4&nbsp;GB SDHC Class 10 Extreme (30&nbsp;MB/s HD Video) (Doesn't boot) - Works with new kernel.img and start.elf [https://github.com/raspberrypi/firmware/tree/master/boot]<br />
** 4&nbsp;GB microSDHC Class 6 Mobile Ultra (tried 15-06-2012 with kernel 19-04-2012) error -84 transferring data, kernel panic: no init found<br />
** 8&nbsp;GB SDHC Class 6 Ultra (B11201421964G)<br />
** <del>8&nbsp;GB SDHC Class 6 Ultra (SDSDH-008G-U46 - BI1131222083D) - Boots kernel, but it won't run init (mmc timeout waiting for interrupt)</del> see [http://www.raspberrypi.org/phpBB3/viewtopic.php?p=88625#p88625 update from andrew.blake]<br />
** 8&nbsp;GB SDHC Class 6 Ultra labelled as 30&nbsp;MB/s (BI1208721965G)) - Boots kernel, but it won't run init (mmc timeout waiting for interrupt)<br />
** 8&nbsp;GB SDHC Class 6 Ultra labelled as 30&nbsp;MB/s SDSRH-008G-A11 - Boots kernel, but it won't run init (mmc timeout waiting for interrupt) <br />
** 8&nbsp;GB SDHC Class 6 Ultra labelled as 30&nbsp;MB/s SDSDH-008G-T11 - Boots kernel, but it won't run init (debian6-19-04-2012: mmc timeout waiting for interrupt), but works fine with [http://www.raspberrypi.org/phpBB3/viewtopic.php?f=50&t=8071 Debian Wheezy] on 6/22/12<br />
** 8&nbsp;GB SDHC Class 6 Ultra I (BI1201221964G) - Boots kernel, but it won't run init (mmc timeout waiting for interrupt)<br />
** 8&nbsp;GB SDHC Class 6 Extreme (BI1101116253G)<br />
** 8&nbsp;GB SDHC Class 10 Extreme (BI1108716254G)<br />
** 8&nbsp;GB SDHC Class 10 Extreme (BI1201416254G) - Still doesn't work with Debian Wheezy beta (2012-06-18)<br />
** <del>8&nbsp;GB SDHC Class 10 Extreme (BI1201516254G) [[http://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B00422FBJ2 amazon.co.uk]]+amazon.fr</del> works with Wheezy 19/09/2012<br />
** 8&nbsp;GB SDHC Class 10 Extreme (BI1200916252D/SDSDX-008G-X46) - Tried with Debian "Squeeze"(19/04/2012), Debian "Wheezy"(18/06/2012) and Arch Linux(13/06/2012). None works. With Debian "Wheezy" Green LED stays ON continuously, with the other two it turns on very faint.<br />
** 8&nbsp;GB SDHC Class 10 Extreme Pro- Works with updated kernel/firmware, stock debian6-19-04-2012 boots kernel, but it won't run init (mmc timeout waiting for interrupt).<br />
** <del>16&nbsp;GB SDHC Class 10 Extreme (30&nbsp;MB/s HD Video) (SDSDX3-016G-X46) - Doesn't boot with debian6-19-04-2012.img, or newer firmware (tested 2012-06-17).</del><br />
** 16&nbsp;GB SDHC Class 6 Ultra (BL1202021933G)<br />
** 16&nbsp;GB SDHC Class 6 Ultra I (BL1205921933G) - Boots kernel, but it won't run init (mmc timeout waiting for interrupt)<br />
* '''Silicon Power''' <br />
** 8&nbsp;GB SDHC Class 10 (SP008GBSDH010V10) - Boots kernel, but it won't run init (mmc timeout waiting for interrupt) - Tested 20/11/2012, 2012-10-28-wheezy-raspbian.img with Nov 20 kernel.<br />
** 32&nbsp;GB SDHC Class 6 (LS2N732GQON03ASP) - boots debian6-19-04-2012.img, but frequent slow response / system hangs.<br />
<br />
* '''TDK'''<br />
** 4&nbsp;GB SDHC Class 6 (S404G1041) - Tried (end May 2012) with new kernel.img and start.elf [https://github.com/raspberrypi/firmware/tree/master/boot] but still won't run init.<br />
** 4&nbsp;GB SDHC Class 6 (S404G1046) [Barcode: 4 902030 784447] - Tried (4th June 2012) with debian6-19-04-2012.img and with replacement kernel.img and start.elf from github [https://github.com/raspberrypi/firmware/tree/87a04c0be0c05e20f94f223183a0310b37c9bd89/boot] but still got 'Error -84' and 'Kernel panic - not syncing: No init found'<br />
<br />
* '''Transcend'''<br />
** 2&nbsp;GB MicroSD (MMAGR02GUECA-MB) - reads fine initially after image was written on a PC, gives mmc0 timeout errors reading back data after writing a large amount (in this case with 'pacman -Syu'). Still seems to work, but is *very* slow after this happens, even across reboots.<br />
** 32&nbsp;GB MicroSD (TS32GUSDHC4) - Doesn't boot.<br />
** 2&nbsp;GB SD (6451AG 2G O2DS1)<br />
** 16&nbsp;GB SD Class10 (TS16GSDHC10U1) - Doesn't Boot, show that "kernel panic - not syncing attempted to kill init"<br />
* '''Veho'''<br />
** 4&nbsp;GB SDHC Class 6 <br />
* '''Verbatim'''<br />
** 16&nbsp;GB SDHC Class 6 (47178) - Raspbian Pisces RC3 - boots, but after login: mmc timeout waiting for interrupt<br />
** 8&nbsp;GB microSD Class 10 (44012) - ArchLinux - boots, but after system update develops segmentation faults<br />
** 8&nbsp;GB SDHC Class 10 (Premium) - Tested with September release of Raspbian and Debian Wheezy - both fail to boot with mmc errors.<br />
<br />
The usual warnings against less reputable sellers (such as Ebay merchants) apply.<br />
<br />
<br />
Note that the following error is sometimes accompanied with a non-working SD card after booting (on Debian):<br />
<br />
mmc0: timeout waiting for hardware interrupt<br />
<br />
=== Benchmarks ===<br />
<br />
* http://www.sakoman.com/OMAP/microsd-card-perfomance-test-results.html<br />
* http://usbspeed.nirsoft.net/usb_drive_speed_summary.html?o=11<br />
* http://www.raspberrypi.org/phpBB3/viewtopic.php?f=2&t=4076<br />
* http://forum.xda-developers.com/showthread.php?t=1005633 (It doesn't originate from Raspberry Pi, but it is very related.)<br />
<br />
== Foreign Language Translations ==<br />
* [[Ru:RaspberryPiBoardVerifiedPeripherals]]<br />
<br />
== References ==<br />
<references><br />
</references><br />
<br />
{{Template:Raspberry Pi}}<br />
♦</div>Bgirardothttps://elinux.org/index.php?title=RPi_A_Method_for_ssh_blind_login&diff=205394RPi A Method for ssh blind login2012-12-28T19:34:33Z<p>Bgirardot: /* Some general information to wrap up */ Fixed broken link and made an internal wiki link instead of an external link</p>
<hr />
<div>This page describes a method for logging into a Raspberry Pi when the user has a networked computer but no suitable monitor for the Pi. Only an Ethernet connection and power are required for this method to work.<br />
<br />
<br />
==Note for those who have a compatible monitor==<br />
<br />
If you have a monitor attached to your Raspberry Pi you can still follow the instructions on this page to access the Pi remotely. Your Pi will run with or without an attached monitor.<br />
<br />
As noted above, this method will also work without your mouse and keyboard; all you need is Ethernet and power.<br />
<br />
In fact you can be logged in localy on your pi and at the same time be logged in from an external PC using putty and if you fire up startx from the putty login startx will run on your HDMI output.<br />
<br />
<br />
This example uses and recommends Putty as the client software this is by no means the only available ssh client. It is however freely available on line for a wide range of operating systems, is open source and happens to be the one I have used. :)<br />
<br />
<br />
In the example quoted the student was using a "Virginmedia Super Hub model number VMDG-480"<br />
<br />
<br />
== Completey wireless control. ==<br />
Recently, Farnell and Element14 have released a wifi dongle for the Pi. On Raspbian drivers are preinstalled whereas on debian manual installation is necesary. With this new device it is possible to have completely wireless control of the Pi.<br />
<br />
==The Router/Hub address==<br />
<br />
It appears that this Virginmedia Hub is a re-badged Netgear so like most (note not all) Netgear routers/hubs the DHCP embedded in the router/hub software should issue IP addresses that follow this pattern. <br />
<br />
192.168.0.x<br />
<br />
If this is the case the hub probably uses 1 in place of the x as it's own address. Making the hub address 192.168.0.1 <br />
<br />
The primary computer will probably use 2 giving it the address of 192.168.0.2 and the then the later ones will follow in sequence. <br />
<br />
For example I happen to know that a "Zoom X6 ADSL Router" uses an address of 10.0.0.2 so a Warning here if the method using 192.168.0.x does not work and your router/hub is not Virginmedia or Netgear or some other re-badged Netgear then its likely that your router IP addresses lie in some other range. <br />
<br />
You may have to resort to reading the manual (shock horror) for your router/hub.<br />
<br />
Using a wrong address is highly unlikely to damage your hardware, this is more akin to dialing a non existent number on your telephone (you just will not get an answer). <br />
<br />
Given a choice of operating systems for hosting the Putty client I prefer Windows XP and Ubuntu followed by almost any other Linux distro before resorting to Vista or Windows7 purely on grounds of ease of instalation I cannot speak for Mac issues but I am given to believe Cyberduck is an option. <br />
<br />
If you have putty installed on a Windows7/Vista machine go ahead and use it (my concerns only relate to getting it installed and getting it running)<br />
<br />
==Get Putty ready==<br />
<br />
This is a screen shot of a Windows XP Putty login screen but the Ubuntu and other versions are not that different. Running Putty on Windows7 or Vista will probably require you to run putty as administrator see importantnote that follows. <br />
<br />
'''Note Important for Win7 and probably Vista users too'''<br />
#On the Start menu, locate the program that you want to always run as an administrator.<br />
#Right-click the application’s shortcut, and then click Properties.<br />
#In the Properties dialog box, click the Compatibility tab.<br />
#Do one of the following:<br />
<br />
To apply the setting to the currently logged-on user, select the Run This Program As An Administrator check box, and then click OK.<br />
<br />
To apply the setting to all users on the computer and regardless of which shortcut is used to start the application, click Change Setting For All Users to display the Properties dialog box for the application’s .exe file, select the Run This Program As An Administrator check box, and then click OK twice.<br />
<br />
The application will now always run using an administrator access token. Keep in mind that if you are using a standard account and prompting is disabled, the application will fail to run. <br />
<br />
(Extracted from TechNet web page).<br />
<br />
'''Here endeth the important note.'''<br />
<br />
[[File:Putty.png]]<br />
<br />
Note this is a screen shot of a copy that has a saved session when you first start the "Host Name (or IP address)" box will be blank <br />
<br />
The Saved Sessions box will be blank and there will only be "Default Settings" in the saved sessions largebox.<br />
<br />
The entry shown was taken after I had saved an earlier session where I had provided the name RaspberryPi do not expect this to fill in automatically it is not that magical.<br />
<br />
==Hardware connections.==<br />
<br />
You will need to your RPi connected to your router/hub with a 10baseT (ethernet) patch lead. You may have received one with your router.<br />
<br />
If you want to connect using a wi-fi connection for the RaspberryPi thats a whole other ball game and will require it's own Wiki page and a bigger geek than me. <br />
<br />
You will need your Wheezy imaged SD card inserted and then power up the RPi. <br />
<br />
On your RPi next to the usb sockets there's a set of tiny led's wait till you have at least a steady lit yellow two greens and a red this may not be essential but I'm sure it's good practice.<br />
<br />
==Ready to start.==<br />
<br />
Ok go to your putty screen as shown above and type in 192.168.0.3 leave the port address of 22 as it is. It may be worth mentioning if you have managed to connect other devices to your router/hub for example smart phones the last digit will probably be 2 more than the number of existing devices. Be prepared to try other values. <br />
<br />
Make sure the radio button SSH is selected <br />
<br />
In saved Sessions type in RaspberryPi (you can type anything you like here but RaspberryPi seems sensible) Also select the radio button for "Only on clean exit" (not essential but again a reasonable choice)<br />
<br />
Click the save button that will just give you a shortcut to those settings your putty should now look like the image above however the IP could well be different. <br />
<br />
Click Open<br />
<br />
If you get a terminal window and the following warning screen overlaid that means you have the connection if you click "yes" it will be the last time you see this warning unless you re-image the SD card. <br />
<br />
[[File:Putty_security_Alert.png]]<br />
<br />
If you do not see the warning and the connection times out try other values for the last digit don't go wild it's unlikely a home user will have a lot of wi-fi connections so the last digit is liable to be single figures. <br />
<br />
Ok if you have this right the line Login: will appear in the terminal window. enter pi and wait till it asks for a password then type raspberry<br />
<br />
Remember this is using the clean install of wheezy the login and password will still be the default settings.<br />
<br />
If your screen then looks like this (numbers and codes will probably differ) you have been sucessfull<br />
<br />
[[File:Logged_in.png]]<br />
<br />
You have a connection to your RaspberryPi<br />
<br />
==Some general information to wrap up==<br />
<br />
Like I say you may need to experiment with changing the last digit in the sequence 192.168.0.x if you only have an Ubuntu computer and a Windows7 PC connected then 4 is the most likely but if you have smart phones picking up wi-fi from your Hub look at it being two more than the number of devices connected (remember the hub itself is number 1) <br />
<br />
Timed out connections probably mean you have the wrong address and obviously you are looking for the next free number. Don't forget the RPi may even be using 0,1 or 2 if you get a windows style pop up window and pi as a login and raspberry as a password do not work you may actually be trying to log into the router. <br />
<br />
Don't worry it just won't connect unless you have a weird router with a login of pi and a password of raspberry. <br />
<br />
make a note of the following commands<br />
<br />
sudo su<br />
<br />
shutdown -h -H now<br />
<br />
"sudo su" makes you the super user temporarily which will then let you run "shutdown -h -H now"<br />
<br />
These are the two commands you want to use to do a safe shut down and you will not want these till you have a login as shown on the previous screen shot. <br />
<br />
If you are using a genuine clean image of wheezey and you have the login prompt and pi and raspberry (note the password does not echo on the screen) appears not to be working you can be confident it is more than likely your typing feel free to try several times remember caps lock OFF because it is all lower case <br />
<br />
Look at the window make sure you are not typing the password when it is asking for the login. :D<br />
<br />
If you have failed and have decided to either re-image the SD card or just go off and read the router/hub manual again.<br />
<br />
Try not to kill the power at the RPi end as you will be wearing out the socket. <br />
<br />
I use a USB connection lead for a phone and I connect to either the PC or one of those cute plugtops with a USB socket so if I am powering down I unplug at the USB end not the MicroUSB end. <br />
<br />
If you have run the shutdown command give it a while before you kill power as it looses and reports the ssh connection is down before it has acctually shut down the RPi. <br />
<br />
I have found that with a HDMI connection this is about 12 seconds give it at least 20 seconds (Engineering estimate ref- Montgomery Scott, StarTrek)you should be ok. <br />
<br />
Once you have the third screen shown above ignore the startx command it '''does''' start the X window but the output only goes to the composite or HDMI port whichever is connected. <br />
<br />
You will not see it on your ssh screen it will lock up and because you cannot see the screen to shut it down. <br />
<br />
Note you do not need a Mouse or a Keyboard connected to the RPi<br />
<br />
Enter the command <br />
<br />
raspi-config<br />
<br />
You will get the menu that I talk about in the wiki page [[RPi Wheezy raspi-config]] (DO NOT TOGGLE ssh It will cut you off) use the up and down arrows to highlight the menu entries and enter to select when you are finished<br />
<br />
<Exit><br />
<br />
will drop you back to the command prompt <br />
<br />
and <br />
<br />
<Ok > <br />
<br />
will reboot<br />
<br />
Have fun<br />
<br />
==Next steps==<br />
<br />
This tutorial showed you how to access the Raspberry Pi's ''command line'' from a networked computer. If you want to view the Raspberry Pi's ''GUI'' on a networked computer, you will have to [[RPi_Wheezy_VNC|install and run VNC]].<br />
<br />
==Suitable Project==<br />
<br />
This links to a Wiki page with instructions on building a LAMP web server [[RPi A Simple Wheezy LAMP install]] You will not need a Composite monitor or HDMI to run this and it will give you more than command line stuff.<br />
<br />
[[Category:RaspberryPi]]</div>Bgirardothttps://elinux.org/index.php?title=RPi_A_Method_for_ssh_blind_login&diff=205388RPi A Method for ssh blind login2012-12-28T19:31:56Z<p>Bgirardot: /* Suitable Project */ Fixed broken link</p>
<hr />
<div>This page describes a method for logging into a Raspberry Pi when the user has a networked computer but no suitable monitor for the Pi. Only an Ethernet connection and power are required for this method to work.<br />
<br />
<br />
==Note for those who have a compatible monitor==<br />
<br />
If you have a monitor attached to your Raspberry Pi you can still follow the instructions on this page to access the Pi remotely. Your Pi will run with or without an attached monitor.<br />
<br />
As noted above, this method will also work without your mouse and keyboard; all you need is Ethernet and power.<br />
<br />
In fact you can be logged in localy on your pi and at the same time be logged in from an external PC using putty and if you fire up startx from the putty login startx will run on your HDMI output.<br />
<br />
<br />
This example uses and recommends Putty as the client software this is by no means the only available ssh client. It is however freely available on line for a wide range of operating systems, is open source and happens to be the one I have used. :)<br />
<br />
<br />
In the example quoted the student was using a "Virginmedia Super Hub model number VMDG-480"<br />
<br />
<br />
== Completey wireless control. ==<br />
Recently, Farnell and Element14 have released a wifi dongle for the Pi. On Raspbian drivers are preinstalled whereas on debian manual installation is necesary. With this new device it is possible to have completely wireless control of the Pi.<br />
<br />
==The Router/Hub address==<br />
<br />
It appears that this Virginmedia Hub is a re-badged Netgear so like most (note not all) Netgear routers/hubs the DHCP embedded in the router/hub software should issue IP addresses that follow this pattern. <br />
<br />
192.168.0.x<br />
<br />
If this is the case the hub probably uses 1 in place of the x as it's own address. Making the hub address 192.168.0.1 <br />
<br />
The primary computer will probably use 2 giving it the address of 192.168.0.2 and the then the later ones will follow in sequence. <br />
<br />
For example I happen to know that a "Zoom X6 ADSL Router" uses an address of 10.0.0.2 so a Warning here if the method using 192.168.0.x does not work and your router/hub is not Virginmedia or Netgear or some other re-badged Netgear then its likely that your router IP addresses lie in some other range. <br />
<br />
You may have to resort to reading the manual (shock horror) for your router/hub.<br />
<br />
Using a wrong address is highly unlikely to damage your hardware, this is more akin to dialing a non existent number on your telephone (you just will not get an answer). <br />
<br />
Given a choice of operating systems for hosting the Putty client I prefer Windows XP and Ubuntu followed by almost any other Linux distro before resorting to Vista or Windows7 purely on grounds of ease of instalation I cannot speak for Mac issues but I am given to believe Cyberduck is an option. <br />
<br />
If you have putty installed on a Windows7/Vista machine go ahead and use it (my concerns only relate to getting it installed and getting it running)<br />
<br />
==Get Putty ready==<br />
<br />
This is a screen shot of a Windows XP Putty login screen but the Ubuntu and other versions are not that different. Running Putty on Windows7 or Vista will probably require you to run putty as administrator see importantnote that follows. <br />
<br />
'''Note Important for Win7 and probably Vista users too'''<br />
#On the Start menu, locate the program that you want to always run as an administrator.<br />
#Right-click the application’s shortcut, and then click Properties.<br />
#In the Properties dialog box, click the Compatibility tab.<br />
#Do one of the following:<br />
<br />
To apply the setting to the currently logged-on user, select the Run This Program As An Administrator check box, and then click OK.<br />
<br />
To apply the setting to all users on the computer and regardless of which shortcut is used to start the application, click Change Setting For All Users to display the Properties dialog box for the application’s .exe file, select the Run This Program As An Administrator check box, and then click OK twice.<br />
<br />
The application will now always run using an administrator access token. Keep in mind that if you are using a standard account and prompting is disabled, the application will fail to run. <br />
<br />
(Extracted from TechNet web page).<br />
<br />
'''Here endeth the important note.'''<br />
<br />
[[File:Putty.png]]<br />
<br />
Note this is a screen shot of a copy that has a saved session when you first start the "Host Name (or IP address)" box will be blank <br />
<br />
The Saved Sessions box will be blank and there will only be "Default Settings" in the saved sessions largebox.<br />
<br />
The entry shown was taken after I had saved an earlier session where I had provided the name RaspberryPi do not expect this to fill in automatically it is not that magical.<br />
<br />
==Hardware connections.==<br />
<br />
You will need to your RPi connected to your router/hub with a 10baseT (ethernet) patch lead. You may have received one with your router.<br />
<br />
If you want to connect using a wi-fi connection for the RaspberryPi thats a whole other ball game and will require it's own Wiki page and a bigger geek than me. <br />
<br />
You will need your Wheezy imaged SD card inserted and then power up the RPi. <br />
<br />
On your RPi next to the usb sockets there's a set of tiny led's wait till you have at least a steady lit yellow two greens and a red this may not be essential but I'm sure it's good practice.<br />
<br />
==Ready to start.==<br />
<br />
Ok go to your putty screen as shown above and type in 192.168.0.3 leave the port address of 22 as it is. It may be worth mentioning if you have managed to connect other devices to your router/hub for example smart phones the last digit will probably be 2 more than the number of existing devices. Be prepared to try other values. <br />
<br />
Make sure the radio button SSH is selected <br />
<br />
In saved Sessions type in RaspberryPi (you can type anything you like here but RaspberryPi seems sensible) Also select the radio button for "Only on clean exit" (not essential but again a reasonable choice)<br />
<br />
Click the save button that will just give you a shortcut to those settings your putty should now look like the image above however the IP could well be different. <br />
<br />
Click Open<br />
<br />
If you get a terminal window and the following warning screen overlaid that means you have the connection if you click "yes" it will be the last time you see this warning unless you re-image the SD card. <br />
<br />
[[File:Putty_security_Alert.png]]<br />
<br />
If you do not see the warning and the connection times out try other values for the last digit don't go wild it's unlikely a home user will have a lot of wi-fi connections so the last digit is liable to be single figures. <br />
<br />
Ok if you have this right the line Login: will appear in the terminal window. enter pi and wait till it asks for a password then type raspberry<br />
<br />
Remember this is using the clean install of wheezy the login and password will still be the default settings.<br />
<br />
If your screen then looks like this (numbers and codes will probably differ) you have been sucessfull<br />
<br />
[[File:Logged_in.png]]<br />
<br />
You have a connection to your RaspberryPi<br />
<br />
==Some general information to wrap up==<br />
<br />
Like I say you may need to experiment with changing the last digit in the sequence 192.168.0.x if you only have an Ubuntu computer and a Windows7 PC connected then 4 is the most likely but if you have smart phones picking up wi-fi from your Hub look at it being two more than the number of devices connected (remember the hub itself is number 1) <br />
<br />
Timed out connections probably mean you have the wrong address and obviously you are looking for the next free number. Don't forget the RPi may even be using 0,1 or 2 if you get a windows style pop up window and pi as a login and raspberry as a password do not work you may actually be trying to log into the router. <br />
<br />
Don't worry it just won't connect unless you have a weird router with a login of pi and a password of raspberry. <br />
<br />
make a note of the following commands<br />
<br />
sudo su<br />
<br />
shutdown -h -H now<br />
<br />
"sudo su" makes you the super user temporarily which will then let you run "shutdown -h -H now"<br />
<br />
These are the two commands you want to use to do a safe shut down and you will not want these till you have a login as shown on the previous screen shot. <br />
<br />
If you are using a genuine clean image of wheezey and you have the login prompt and pi and raspberry (note the password does not echo on the screen) appears not to be working you can be confident it is more than likely your typing feel free to try several times remember caps lock OFF because it is all lower case <br />
<br />
Look at the window make sure you are not typing the password when it is asking for the login. :D<br />
<br />
If you have failed and have decided to either re-image the SD card or just go off and read the router/hub manual again.<br />
<br />
Try not to kill the power at the RPi end as you will be wearing out the socket. <br />
<br />
I use a USB connection lead for a phone and I connect to either the PC or one of those cute plugtops with a USB socket so if I am powering down I unplug at the USB end not the MicroUSB end. <br />
<br />
If you have run the shutdown command give it a while before you kill power as it looses and reports the ssh connection is down before it has acctually shut down the RPi. <br />
<br />
I have found that with a HDMI connection this is about 12 seconds give it at least 20 seconds (Engineering estimate ref- Montgomery Scott, StarTrek)you should be ok. <br />
<br />
Once you have the third screen shown above ignore the startx command it '''does''' start the X window but the output only goes to the composite or HDMI port whichever is connected. <br />
<br />
You will not see it on your ssh screen it will lock up and because you cannot see the screen to shut it down. <br />
<br />
Note you do not need a Mouse or a Keyboard connected to the RPi<br />
<br />
Enter the command <br />
<br />
raspi-config<br />
<br />
You will get the menu that I talk about in the wiki page [http://elinux.org/Wheezy_raspi-config raspi-config menu] (DO NOT TOGGLE ssh It will cut you off) use the up and down arrows to highlight the menu entries and enter to select when you are finished<br />
<br />
<Exit><br />
<br />
will drop you back to the command prompt <br />
<br />
and <br />
<br />
<Ok > <br />
<br />
will reboot<br />
<br />
Have fun<br />
<br />
==Next steps==<br />
<br />
This tutorial showed you how to access the Raspberry Pi's ''command line'' from a networked computer. If you want to view the Raspberry Pi's ''GUI'' on a networked computer, you will have to [[RPi_Wheezy_VNC|install and run VNC]].<br />
<br />
==Suitable Project==<br />
<br />
This links to a Wiki page with instructions on building a LAMP web server [[RPi A Simple Wheezy LAMP install]] You will not need a Composite monitor or HDMI to run this and it will give you more than command line stuff.<br />
<br />
[[Category:RaspberryPi]]</div>Bgirardothttps://elinux.org/index.php?title=RPI_safe_mode&diff=205382RPI safe mode2012-12-28T18:55:21Z<p>Bgirardot: Added link to P1 pin out diagram</p>
<hr />
<div>This results in config.txt being ignored (except for avoid_safe_mode). A default cmdline.txt is applied, and kernel_emergency.img is loaded (if not available, then just kernel.img).<br />
<br />
It provides a means of recovering from, e.g.<br />
* too high an overclock<br />
* a typo in cmdline.txt<br />
* an incorrect kernel=<filename> parameter<br />
* an invalid display mode<br />
without requiring a PC.<br />
(Obviously it won't help if you've deleted start.elf...)<br />
<br />
The busybox based kernel_emergency.img has /boot mounted, and vi installed so you can fix up config.txt or cmdline.txt.<br />
(You can also mount /dev/mmcblk0p2 and fix up the rootfs if you have problems there that stop you booting).<br />
<br />
Connect pins 5 & 6 with a jumper or piece of wire. These pins are the 3rd row from the end of the P1 header closest to the edge of the board.<br />
<br />
Be very careful with where you insert the jumper. Some pins carry power, so shorting those would not be a good idea. Wire insulation stripped off of 20 AWG wire can be used to cover the power pins and help prevent accidents.<br />
<br />
[[File:Jump-pins-5-6.jpg|left|thumb|500px|20 AWG wire used to connect P1 pins 5 and 6 to boot RPi into safe mode. Also, 20 AWG wire insulation used to protect the power pins on the P1 header from accidentally being shorted to another pin or each other. ]]<br />
<br />
<br /><br />
<br />
More info:<br />
http://www.raspberrypi.org/phpBB3/viewtopic.php?f=29&t=12007<br />
<br />
P1 Pin diagram: [[RPi Low-level peripherals]]</div>Bgirardothttps://elinux.org/index.php?title=RPI_safe_mode&diff=205376RPI safe mode2012-12-28T18:51:56Z<p>Bgirardot: Minor clarification</p>
<hr />
<div>This results in config.txt being ignored (except for avoid_safe_mode). A default cmdline.txt is applied, and kernel_emergency.img is loaded (if not available, then just kernel.img).<br />
<br />
It provides a means of recovering from, e.g.<br />
* too high an overclock<br />
* a typo in cmdline.txt<br />
* an incorrect kernel=<filename> parameter<br />
* an invalid display mode<br />
without requiring a PC.<br />
(Obviously it won't help if you've deleted start.elf...)<br />
<br />
The busybox based kernel_emergency.img has /boot mounted, and vi installed so you can fix up config.txt or cmdline.txt.<br />
(You can also mount /dev/mmcblk0p2 and fix up the rootfs if you have problems there that stop you booting).<br />
<br />
Connect pins 5 & 6 with a jumper or piece of wire. These pins are the 3rd row from the end of the P1 header closest to the edge of the board.<br />
<br />
Be very careful with where you insert the jumper. Some pins carry power, so shorting those would not be a good idea. Wire insulation stripped off of 20 AWG wire can be used to cover the power pins and help prevent accidents.<br />
<br />
[[File:Jump-pins-5-6.jpg|left|thumb|500px|20 AWG wire used to connect P1 pins 5 and 6 to boot RPi into safe mode. Also, 20 AWG wire insulation used to protect the power pins on the P1 header from accidentally being shorted to another pin or each other. ]]<br />
<br />
<br /><br />
<br />
More info:<br />
http://www.raspberrypi.org/phpBB3/viewtopic.php?f=29&t=12007</div>Bgirardothttps://elinux.org/index.php?title=RPI_safe_mode&diff=205370RPI safe mode2012-12-28T18:28:13Z<p>Bgirardot: Minor clarification</p>
<hr />
<div>This results in config.txt being ignored (except for avoid_safe_mode). A default cmdline.txt is applied, and kernel_emergency.img is loaded (if not available, then just kernel.img).<br />
<br />
It provides a means of recovering from, e.g.<br />
* too high an overclock<br />
* a typo in cmdline.txt<br />
* an incorrect kernel=<filename> parameter<br />
* an invalid display mode<br />
without requiring a PC.<br />
(Obviously it won't help if you've deleted start.elf...)<br />
<br />
The busybox based kernel_emergency.img has /boot mounted, and vi installed so you can fix up config.txt or cmdline.txt.<br />
(You can also mount /dev/mmcblk0p2 and fix up the rootfs if you have problems there that stop you booting).<br />
<br />
Short (connect) pins 5 & 6 with a jumper or piece of wire. These pins are the 3rd row from the end of the P1 header closest to the edge of the board.<br />
<br />
Be very careful with where you insert the jumper. Some pins carry power, so shorting those would not be a good idea. Wire insulation stripped off of 20 AWG wire can be used to cover the power pins and help prevent accidents.<br />
<br />
[[File:Jump-pins-5-6.jpg|left|thumb|500px|20 AWG wire used to connect P1 pins 5 and 6 to boot RPi into safe mode. Also, 20 AWG wire insulation used to protect the power pins on the P1 header from accidentally being shorted to another pin or each other. ]]<br />
<br />
<br /><br />
<br />
More info:<br />
http://www.raspberrypi.org/phpBB3/viewtopic.php?f=29&t=12007</div>Bgirardothttps://elinux.org/index.php?title=RPI_safe_mode&diff=205364RPI safe mode2012-12-28T18:22:49Z<p>Bgirardot: Added image of jumper wire in place</p>
<hr />
<div>This results in config.txt being ignored (except for avoid_safe_mode). A default cmdline.txt is applied, and kernel_emergency.img is loaded (if not available, then just kernel.img).<br />
<br />
It provides a means of recovering from, e.g.<br />
* too high an overclock<br />
* a typo in cmdline.txt<br />
* an incorrect kernel=<filename> parameter<br />
* an invalid display mode<br />
without requiring a PC.<br />
(Obviously it won't help if you've deleted start.elf...)<br />
<br />
The busybox based kernel_emergency.img has /boot mounted, and vi installed so you can fix up config.txt or cmdline.txt.<br />
(You can also mount /dev/mmcblk0p2 and fix up the rootfs if you have problems there that stop you booting).<br />
<br />
Short Jumpers 5&6.<br />
Be very careful with where you insert the jumper. Some pins carry power, so shorting those would not be a good idea. Third row from the end.<br />
<br />
[[File:Jump-pins-5-6.jpg|left|thumb|500px|20 AWG wire used to connect P1 pins 5 and 6 to boot RPi into safe mode. Also, 20 AWG wire insulation used to protect the power pins on the P1 header from accidentally being shorted to another pin or each other. ]]<br />
<br />
<br /><br />
<br />
More info:<br />
http://www.raspberrypi.org/phpBB3/viewtopic.php?f=29&t=12007</div>Bgirardothttps://elinux.org/index.php?title=File:Jump-pins-5-6.jpg&diff=205358File:Jump-pins-5-6.jpg2012-12-28T17:55:52Z<p>Bgirardot: typo fix</p>
<hr />
<div>20 AWG wire used to connect P1 pins 5 and 6 to boot RPi into safe mode. Also, 20 AWG wire insulation used to protect the power pins on the P1 header from accidentally being shorted to another pin or each other.</div>Bgirardothttps://elinux.org/index.php?title=File:Jump-pins-5-6.jpg&diff=205352File:Jump-pins-5-6.jpg2012-12-28T17:55:02Z<p>Bgirardot: 20 AWG wire used to connect P1 pins 5 and 6 to book RPi into safe mode. Also, 20 AWG wire insulation used to protect the power pins on the P1 header from accidentally being shorted to another pin or each other.</p>
<hr />
<div>20 AWG wire used to connect P1 pins 5 and 6 to book RPi into safe mode. Also, 20 AWG wire insulation used to protect the power pins on the P1 header from accidentally being shorted to another pin or each other.</div>Bgirardothttps://elinux.org/index.php?title=RPi_Noob_Guide_to_the_Pi_image&diff=204776RPi Noob Guide to the Pi image2012-12-26T19:07:51Z<p>Bgirardot: /* Sound */ Typo fix</p>
<hr />
<div>'''Heads up there have been loads of posts on the Forum caused by Power issues, Wireless and hub incorporated keyboards and incorectly seated SD cards (partiularly where the SD card holder had a broken edge) if you are having problems check the Verified Hardware list If your SD holder is broken then contact your supplier re-returns (You should not be going to the back of the queue). If you can live with a bodge that seats your SD card then feel free but the recomendation is if it is broken out of the box seek a replacement from your supplier.''' <br />
<br />
The intention of this page is to provide the detail of making a working SD card and some early hardware choices for a RaspberryPi keeping instructions and explanations jargon free as much as posible and explaining any neccessary jargon as it appears. <br />
<br />
Also to provide some answers for the problems experienced by Noob users. <br />
<br />
== Getting an image ==<br />
What is an image. <br />
<br />
An image is a file you download that contains the bare minimum to setup a RaspberryPi SD card. The SD card is that bit of plastic you can put in your camera to store pictures and it is more than capable of acting as the primary disk for your RaspberryPi<br />
<br />
The absolute minimum to load a Wheezy image is a 2 Gig (Gigabyte) SD card (there are images that will fit on a 1 Gig but not Wheezy) but you will not have much space so I reccomend a 4 Gig and as a noob have two if you can. <br />
<br />
You can move to bigger ones later I started with a 2 Gig I extracted from an old camera and a 4 Gig I scrounged from an old MP3 player<br />
<br />
If you have a camera that takes SD cards use the cameras format option its quick and usually works.<br />
<br />
Ok most of this page will work around the Wheezy images but should work for any image but your going to need to get an image.<br />
<br />
The Wheezy image at this time has two versions and each has two download methods<br />
<br />
The older version [http://www.raspberrypi.org/archives/1435 Wheezy 2012-06-18 Beta is available here]<br />
<br />
The current one [http://www.raspberrypi.org/downloads Wheezy-Raspbian-2012-07-15 is on the main download page here]<br />
<br />
Both give the option of a direct browser download or a download using Torrent.<br />
<br />
Torrent is better for the community if you know how to use it but if you do not just let your browser do the work and take the Direct Download either way you will end up with a zip file. <br />
<br />
Do not unzip yet you need to do a check on this zip file before you unpack (unzip) it.<br />
<br />
== The checksum and using it ==<br />
On the download page you will see a long string with the name SHA-1 this is the checksum if you think any computer file is a sequence of numbers if you were to add all of those together you would get a result an answer. <br />
<br />
Get one of the numbers wrong and the answer is wrong well the SHA-1 is a hexadecimal (base16) total for the zip file you downloaded.<br />
<br />
This is actually a lie SHA1 is actually a fancy algorithim called a '''S'''ecure '''H'''ash '''A'''lgorithm but of which there are four. As a noob don't worry it is all done for you. <br />
<br />
There is a little program SHA1SUM.exe that if you feed it your zip file will calculate an SHA-1 number and if that number is the same one on the download page you can be confident the download worked correctly. <br />
<br />
[http://code.google.com/p/toolkits/downloads/detail?name=sha1sum.exe&can=2&q= A simple place to get sha1sum.exe] this is cute because it comes with its own SHA1 checksum. <br />
<br />
Highlight and copy the checksum create a new text file (I use wordpad) and paste the checksum into it, it may add some leading space so delete that highlight and copy it with the leading spaces removed save the file and when asked for the file name paste in the checksum followed by .txt <br />
<br />
you now have a text file that has the checksum as the name and it contains the checksum this is slightly safer than writing it down. Also if you feel inclined it is easy to print a hard copy. <br />
<br />
So you should now have copy of sha1sum.exe and a copy of its checksum<br />
<br />
Double click sha1sum.exe you should get a pop-up window (you may get the unknown publisher one first and if you are running vista or Windows7 you will need to run as administrator) <br />
<br />
The resuting window has two boxes and two buttons [select file] and [exist] (an unusual spelling of exit) click select file and browse to yor sh1sum.exe file and click. There should now be the file name in the top window and a value in the bottom window and because you used the checksum as a file name it will be fairly easy to compare the two if they are the same then you know sha1sum.exe is good. <br />
<br />
So you now need to do the same for your downloaded image zip file. ('''NOTE''' the zip file not the extracted image file). it may be worth doing the little text file trick for your Wheezy image sha1 check value. <br />
<br />
This is where this may sound patronising but remember each file has its own sha1 value.<br />
<br />
If the values come out the same you can be confident the download was a sucess and it will be safe to unzip the downloaded file.<br />
<br />
Unzipped you will end up with a file that ends .img this is the file you are going to build into your SD card but first you need a program to do this.<br />
<br />
== Image writers ==<br />
Image writers are programs used to stuff a .img file onto an SD card or a pen drive. <br />
<br />
There are two options in Linux<br />
<br />
dd which is command line and not the easiest for the noob feel free to investigate but the following is the command line description for running dd<br />
<br />
dd bs=1M if=[debian .img file] of=[path to your SD card]<br />
<br />
and<br />
<br />
There is a gui tool under the Ubuntu banner called ImageWriter (To use this you will need to add this into Ubuntu and it can be found in the Ubuntu Software Centre under Accessories) This is intuitive compared to dd. <br />
<br />
One easy one for Windows<br />
<br />
This is Win32DiskImage there are a number of locations you can get this <br />
<br />
[http://www.softpedia.com/dyn-postdownload.php?p=173006&t=5&i=1 Win32DiskImage] Note this kicks off an automatic download of the zip. <br />
<br />
This is the same download you will get by following the link on the RaspberryPi Download page. This should work for all versions of windows but you should note that as usual that in Vista and Windows7 you will need to run as administrator. I have been told there is a special version for 64bit instalations but there appears to be no obvious link for this. <br />
<br />
Various Mac options you can find here<br />
<br />
[http://www.linuxfoundation.org/collaborate/workgroups/openprinting/macosximagewriter Link to image writer pages for the mac] <br />
<br />
I make no pretentions to know how to do this onna Mac I hope we can find a Mac punter to come and expand on the Mac options maybe even write its own dedicated wiki page for the Mac noob.<br />
<br />
== Linux dd ==<br />
I am not going to pretend that the linux command line and the dd method is the easiest environment for a noob.<br />
<br />
The following link to [http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Dd_%28Unix%29 dd] is the wikipedia page for dd this is a comprhensive page that has the answers but I would suggest that you save this for the time when your RPi is running and you can play with it there.<br />
<br />
== Ubuntu ImageWriter ==<br />
The Ubuntu ImageWriter is as instinctive as it gets if you are working from a Linux Desktop I need to confifm other Distro's (Distributions = Flavours of Linux)<br />
<br />
One thing to note with ImageWriter is that you cannot select the target till you have selected an image to write.<br />
<br />
== Win32DiskImage ==<br />
This is the Windows tool used to write your .img file to your SD card this like the ubuntu tool is an instinctive in its use. <br />
<br />
Unlike the Ubuntu tool you can select the SD card before you select your .img file some people have had issues with SD card readers particularly in built ones it has to be worth noting that good results have been achieved with the cheapest of card writers (for me poundland). <br />
<br />
One advantage of the Win32DiskImage is that it can be easily used to read as well as write a disk image. <br />
<br />
As a noob you may wonder what is the purpose of this? <br />
<br />
Once you have installed your RPi image and done your customisation you can then use Win32DiskImage [Read] button to create your own image that you can use as a backup. But note you do need to give it a new name you do not want to overwrite your master image. (If you do there is nothing to stop you re-downloading if you do. <br />
<br />
As a noob you can ignore the MD5 Hash option. <br />
<br />
I am not suggesing you should ignore this forever but while you consider yourself still to be a noob just put it on the back burner. <br />
<br />
Do not expect it to be a quick process and if you choose to backup your SD card after using something like the rsapi-config script and the the EXPAND-ROOTFS to use all of your SD card the image will be tailored to the size of card you have pulled it from. <br />
<br />
If you want it to fit in a smaller card you will need to do some image reduction and to be fair thats not really a noob subject enough said it may be somthing for futher study once you gain confidence. <br />
<br />
dd can also be used for backup but as I say dd is not for the faint hearted. <br />
<br />
The .img file selection box has a browse button selecting your file may seem counterintutive for the noob because the actual select button says save its the way it is like a lot of Microsoft stuff. (Just think of the use of the start button to shut down in XP). <br />
<br />
Live with it and click save then to write your SD card click write at this point you will be presented with a dialoge that you aregoing to overwrite everything on the card this is just a check to make sure you understand you are going to wipe your SD card. Then its a wait. Even for the smaller SD card images it will take a while one consideration is the job can be minimised to continue as a background operation. <br />
<br />
When the program cfinishes you will get a popup Complete window with the message "Write sucessful." <br />
<br />
Before you pull the SD card or the writer you should use your "safely remove hardware" option (This will probably not harm your SD card if you don't but it is considered good practice and if you dont and your SD get's corrupted you are only going to need to do it again. <br />
<br />
There has been some comment about using up SD card write cycles but if you go and look at the wiki page for SD cards you will see that the usual number of write cycles for an SD card is about 100,000 even by a conservative estimate that is a fair life.<br />
<br />
== SD image size concerns ==<br />
Having completed an install of an image on your SD card of choice at any point you can insert the card in any reader now if you view the card from Linux you can see the Raspberry partition but from Windows you can only see 12 files for both of the Wheezy installs. <br />
<br />
A lot of noob users are concerned upon loading their image file to a larger card say 32Gig then looking at the image with windows only seeing a 58 meg partition do not worry there is a larger second part that is just not visible from Windows and once installed into a RaspberryPi this will come into force and even looking at the SD card with Linux it will look like it is not using all of the card. <br />
<br />
Upon starting Wheezy with a Coposite or HDMI screen the script raspi-config will run automaticaly <br />
<br />
If you choose there is the option of doing a Blind Login using Putty or another ssh login information here [[RPi_A_Method_for_ssh_blind_login]] if you choose this option you have to run raspi-config manually.<br />
<br />
<br />
== SD Card Lock a heads up ==<br />
The lock the little tab on one side of the SD card is not sensed or used by the RaspberryPi so it can write to the card even if the lock is on so let's follow this scenario <br />
<br />
# You image your card sucessfully<br />
# You accidentaly lock the card<br />
# You boot from the card and realise you want to make changes to the config.txt (next section)<br />
# You put your card into your PC, Mac, whatever reader<br />
# You can't change anything you can not re-image you can't format but you can still change stuff when it's in your RPi<br />
<br />
All because you accidentaly moved that little slide switch on the side of your SD Card.....<br />
<br />
<br />
== Broken SD Card holder ==<br />
A couple of people have reported broken SD Card holders out of the box/packet. <br />
<br />
This is a fit for purpose return but if you have had your RPi a few weeks you may have a problem registering for a return. <br />
<br />
Replacement holders can be bought online but there is an alternative if you are soldering iron confident. <br />
<br />
Poundland in the UK has card readers for a (you guessed it) a pound some of these come in clear cases so it's fairly easy to see if the holder is intact and is not part of the case. <br />
<br />
I appreciate this may not be viable outside the UK. <br />
<br />
Thanks to grahamed in the forum for this one. <br />
<br />
Another option may be to glue in a micro SD adaptor and go to micro SD Cards.<br />
<br />
== config.txt ==<br />
The only file of issue is the config.txt from Windows you need to open this with Wordpad (not notepad) this is the setup editble file and there is now a fully commented version available here [https://raw.github.com/Evilpaul/RPi-config/master/config.txt commented config.txt] <br />
<br />
There are a lot of options in the config.txt file and activation usually consists of removing the # (hash) from the beginning of a line the promote the line from being a comment to being active. <br />
<br />
If you have been reading the forum and your told to edit this file as an option this is the way. Once you have edited remember to save and to retain the name config.txt and if you end up lost by what changes you have made and want to revert to the original just re-image your SD card. <br />
<br />
This is the configuration file that is accessed at start up for most installs you will not need to change this and if you are in any doubt it will be worth reading the fully commented version linked earlier.<br />
<br />
== Cable connections ==<br />
The following sections cover some of the options for connecting your RaspberryPi<br />
<br />
== Link to Verified Hardware Page ==<br />
<br />
[[RPi VerifiedPeripherals]]<br />
<br />
== Power to the RPi ==<br />
A lot of noob problems can be linked back to power supply of which you have a vast number of options. <br />
<br />
The primary and probably the easiest is to use a phone charger with a micro SD plug. <br />
<br />
Second choice would be using a cable with a USB Male "A" type on one end and a Micro USB on the other and there are a number of ways of using this cable. <br />
<br />
The first option I tried was using a USB from my PC on the USB "A" end and the Miro USB into the RaspberryPi. There have been issues with this as a connection from a laptop but a USB 3 port on a PC is considered more than adequate. And my USB 2 worked ok. <br />
<br />
Third choice is a plug that has a USB socket in place of the cable these appear to work well and there are a lot of mobile phones that come with these as standard. <br />
<br />
Fourth and probably best option is a Powered USB Hub and there is a rather nice circular option in that the Hub can power your RaspberryPi but then your RaspberryPi USB port can be used to distribute your usb options by connecting your hub with a USB "A"-"B" cable. <br />
<br />
I am now using this method with a Belkin 7 port USB Hub model F5U010 this is not the only hub option it just happens to be the one that works for me. <br />
<br />
There have been a few questions in the forum by noobs getting a colour rainbow flash (the initalising graphics chip) and then sometimes some text at which point the RaspberryPi appears to shut down with a black screen and then appears to start again. <br />
<br />
This is almost certainly a power issue but the cause may not be the power supply there are a number of keyboards particularly those with LED's or integral USB hubs which try to draw too much power from the USB port. <br />
<br />
There is an argument for having the cheapest and simplest Keyboard and Mouse for a first time start.<br />
<br />
== Ethernet ==<br />
There are a lot of calls for help with wi-fi networking at this time there are some USB wi-fi solutions a lot of these users with wireless routers if they go back to the box (assuming they still have it will probably find an ethernet 10baseT RJ45 cable that came with their router. <br />
<br />
Until the wireless solutions are in place your best startup will be by using a network cable. <br />
<br />
Most (note not all) Netgear routers/hubs the DHCP embedded in the router/hub software should issue IP addresses that follow this pattern.<br />
<br />
192.168.0.x If this is the case the hub probably uses 1 in place of the x as it's own address. Making the hub address 192.168.0.1<br />
<br />
The primary computer will probably use 2 giving it the address of 192.168.0.2 and the then the later ones will follow in sequence.<br />
<br />
Other brand routers follow their own pattern for example I happen to know that a "Zoom X6 ADSL Router" uses an address of 10.0.0.2 so a Warning here if the method using 192.168.0.x does not work and your router/hub is not Virginmedia (re-badged netgear) or Netgear or some other re-badged Netgear then its likely that your router IP addresses lie in some other range.<br />
<br />
You may have to resort to reading the manual (shock horror) for your router/hub. <br />
<br />
Its worth noting that you can test your RaspberryPi with just the network cable and a power connection then using an ssh remote login theres a whole section on this [[RPi_A_Method_for_ssh_blind_login | Blind Login Here]]. <br />
<br />
This can eliminate a cycling restart caused by a flaky keyboard.<br />
<br />
== USB 1 & 2 ==<br />
Your RaspberryPi has two USB ports without a USB hub you are limited to two so with a Mouse and Keyboard of course if you are choosing to run as command line and forgoing the gui screen startx then not having a mouse. <br />
<br />
If you are set on learning the nuts and bolts of Linux command line is a good way to start. <br />
<br />
If you are wanting to explore the options of the RaspberryPi Gui with minimal intrusion then the easiest option is a mouse and keyboard and ethernet and explore the vagaries of wi-fi attaching pen-drives or even printers you really do need to be exploring options using powered USB hubs.<br />
<br />
== Video ==<br />
There are a lot of questions about using VGA Monitors and you can using a converter but they are not cheap this is not simply a case of a cable VGA is Analogue and HDMI is Digital its like AM and FM radio. <br />
<br />
It is by far a cheaper option of picking up an old (not too old) TV with a Scart or an RCA AV input socket. For a Scart you will need a conversion plug to change the RCA Composite to Scart although these are relativly cheap and if the TV has an AV (normally yellow) Phono input it will be even cheaper. <br />
<br />
HDMI to DVI Is an option and valid if you have a DVI monitor allready but the best fix is try and source a TV with HDMI.<br />
<br />
==HDMI ==<br />
Given the HDMI solution cables can be bought at the budget end for as little as 1GBP yes a quid at Poundland. I have two of these and both are up to the task. <br />
<br />
The Default font with the Wheezy install is small and this is not an issue if you jump to startx and the gui screen but if you are planning to engage with the command line I would recommend you follow this [[RPi_Command_line_font_size | Link]] this will tell you about a quick way of changing the Default FontFace and FontSize. <br />
<br />
This is not the only way but it is quick and easy to understand. Always a consideration for the noob user. <br />
<br />
There can arise a situation where you plug in an HDMI monitor and get a no signal response on your TV. <br />
<br />
This can quite often be because the HDMI line was not active at start up you need your TV on and the HDMI live otherwise it defaults to Composite but there is a fix in the config.txt mentioned earlier remove the # (hash) from the start of the <br />
<br />
#hdmi_force_hotplug=1<br />
<br />
line this wil make your RPi believe it has found the active signal on the HDMI socket.<br />
<br />
== Composite ==<br />
This is the yellow phono plug oposite the HDMI a lot of TV's these days have a yellow phono socket often labled AV you can also get whats affectionaly called an RCA Scart In (Maplin code L83BA) There are cheaper suppliers(saw one in poundland last weekend). This converts a Scart socket to three phonos one is Composite Video and the other two are left and right audio. <br />
<br />
The default setting for the composite output uses the american standard from the three widley available globaly these are <br />
<br />
PAL = '''P'''hase '''A'''lternating '''L'''ine (British)<br />
<br />
SECAM = '''Sé'''quentiel '''c'''ouleur '''à m'''émoire (French)<br />
<br />
NTSC = '''N'''ational '''T'''elevision '''S'''ystem '''C'''ommittee (American)<br />
<br />
[http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/File:PAL-NTSC-SECAM.svg Map of who uses which]<br />
<br />
Setting this up is one of the lines in the config.txt file mentioned earlier.<br />
<br />
For this the line you need to change is this<br />
<br />
#sdtv_mode=0<br />
<br />
Remove the # (hash)<br />
<br />
and choose the number from this list<br />
<br />
0 Normal NTSC (Default)<br />
1 Japanese version of NTSC - no pedestal<br />
2 Normal PAL<br />
3 Brazilian version of PAL - 525/60 rather than 625/50, different subcarrier<br />
<br />
Conversation Capture from the forum<br />
<br />
Melondrop<br />
Running raspbian and using composite out to an old tv.<br />
The problem im having is the bottom text of menus (usually with the ok and close buttons on them) is getting cut off. <br />
I dont mean cut off the bottom of the screen I mean cut off like all menus are too big and get cut off behind the taskbar. <br />
I went through dpi settings and every other setting i could find but couldnt find a way to shrink any menus<br />
<br />
bredman<br />
Most applications assume a minimum screen size, normally 640x480 or maybe larger. This causes a problem with composite monitors with a lower resolution.<br />
If the window or menu is too large to fit on screen, press the Alt key while holding down the left mouse button and moving the mouse. <br />
This will move the window on the screen. Not a perfect solution, but better than nothing.<br />
<br />
dom<br />
The other option is to increase the resolution in X. You can do this with (in config.txt)<br />
framebuffer_width=800<br />
framebuffer_height=600<br />
<br />
Detail on dom's option here [[RPi config.txt]]<br />
<br />
== Sound ==<br />
There are a few options for sound and as a noob exploring command line you are probably a fair way from using it in anger but if you are going down the startx gui screen then you are probably going to want to explore sound. <br />
<br />
The sound port of the RaspberryPi is the small jack socket next to the yellow composite phono If you are going the composite Scart/AV route then a stereo jack to twin phono lead see Maplins N12GW or N04JZ will work or even use an L42AU then a couple of standard male phono leads. These aree not the only Maplin numbers there are lots of variations even gold plated.<br />
<br />
Getting sound from an HDMI requires you piggy back the sound on the HDMI signal. <br />
<br />
I know this works with a PC using HDMI and I can't see why it will not work for the RaspberryPi but none of the config.txt settings obviously support this and I have been aware of a lot of forum chatter on this subject. <br />
<br />
For the time being as a noob plug some PC external speakers into the socket next to composite it's far easier.<br />
<br />
== The SD Card slot ==<br />
There is a massive list of SD cards compatable with the RaspberryPi<br />
<br />
If you have an SD Card capacity bigger than 2gig prefered minimum 4gig and it's spare and you don't mind blanking it then you can image it with Wheezy and if it does not work so be it. <br />
<br />
I have several and 3 are 4gig SDHC and every card I have tried to date has worked.<br />
<br />
== The Wheezy Login and The tidy shutdown ==<br />
We have to assume that early on in the playground that is a functioning RaspberryPi you will want to start and shut down and just like your PC or Mac it is best that this is done in an orderly fasion<br />
<br />
We are assuming you are using Wheezy <br />
Login = pi<br />
password = raspberry<br />
<br />
Till you change it, probably in raspi-config<br />
<br />
To do the shutdown you need to be logged in and at the command line enter the following<br />
<br />
sudo halt<br />
<br />
If you are using a screen it will go off but if you are using a blind login or have failed to get a screen running and are running on guess work (prtending you can see what you are typing. A sucessfull halt (shutdown) will leave you with only the red power (PWR) led lit. <br />
<br />
At this point feel free to unplug.<br />
<br />
== Hey look LED's ==<br />
On your RaspberryPi in the corner you have five surface mount LED's labled as follows<br />
<br />
#Green OK<br />
#Red PWR<br />
#Green FDX<br />
#Green LNK<br />
#Yellow 10M<br />
<br />
With the fifth one nearest the corner.<br />
<br />
== Backup your work ==<br />
Look at the section about the Win32DiskImage<br />
<br />
<br />
[[Category:RaspberryPi]]</div>Bgirardothttps://elinux.org/index.php?title=RPi_Noob_Guide_to_the_Pi_image&diff=204770RPi Noob Guide to the Pi image2012-12-26T19:06:42Z<p>Bgirardot: /* Composite */ Typo fix</p>
<hr />
<div>'''Heads up there have been loads of posts on the Forum caused by Power issues, Wireless and hub incorporated keyboards and incorectly seated SD cards (partiularly where the SD card holder had a broken edge) if you are having problems check the Verified Hardware list If your SD holder is broken then contact your supplier re-returns (You should not be going to the back of the queue). If you can live with a bodge that seats your SD card then feel free but the recomendation is if it is broken out of the box seek a replacement from your supplier.''' <br />
<br />
The intention of this page is to provide the detail of making a working SD card and some early hardware choices for a RaspberryPi keeping instructions and explanations jargon free as much as posible and explaining any neccessary jargon as it appears. <br />
<br />
Also to provide some answers for the problems experienced by Noob users. <br />
<br />
== Getting an image ==<br />
What is an image. <br />
<br />
An image is a file you download that contains the bare minimum to setup a RaspberryPi SD card. The SD card is that bit of plastic you can put in your camera to store pictures and it is more than capable of acting as the primary disk for your RaspberryPi<br />
<br />
The absolute minimum to load a Wheezy image is a 2 Gig (Gigabyte) SD card (there are images that will fit on a 1 Gig but not Wheezy) but you will not have much space so I reccomend a 4 Gig and as a noob have two if you can. <br />
<br />
You can move to bigger ones later I started with a 2 Gig I extracted from an old camera and a 4 Gig I scrounged from an old MP3 player<br />
<br />
If you have a camera that takes SD cards use the cameras format option its quick and usually works.<br />
<br />
Ok most of this page will work around the Wheezy images but should work for any image but your going to need to get an image.<br />
<br />
The Wheezy image at this time has two versions and each has two download methods<br />
<br />
The older version [http://www.raspberrypi.org/archives/1435 Wheezy 2012-06-18 Beta is available here]<br />
<br />
The current one [http://www.raspberrypi.org/downloads Wheezy-Raspbian-2012-07-15 is on the main download page here]<br />
<br />
Both give the option of a direct browser download or a download using Torrent.<br />
<br />
Torrent is better for the community if you know how to use it but if you do not just let your browser do the work and take the Direct Download either way you will end up with a zip file. <br />
<br />
Do not unzip yet you need to do a check on this zip file before you unpack (unzip) it.<br />
<br />
== The checksum and using it ==<br />
On the download page you will see a long string with the name SHA-1 this is the checksum if you think any computer file is a sequence of numbers if you were to add all of those together you would get a result an answer. <br />
<br />
Get one of the numbers wrong and the answer is wrong well the SHA-1 is a hexadecimal (base16) total for the zip file you downloaded.<br />
<br />
This is actually a lie SHA1 is actually a fancy algorithim called a '''S'''ecure '''H'''ash '''A'''lgorithm but of which there are four. As a noob don't worry it is all done for you. <br />
<br />
There is a little program SHA1SUM.exe that if you feed it your zip file will calculate an SHA-1 number and if that number is the same one on the download page you can be confident the download worked correctly. <br />
<br />
[http://code.google.com/p/toolkits/downloads/detail?name=sha1sum.exe&can=2&q= A simple place to get sha1sum.exe] this is cute because it comes with its own SHA1 checksum. <br />
<br />
Highlight and copy the checksum create a new text file (I use wordpad) and paste the checksum into it, it may add some leading space so delete that highlight and copy it with the leading spaces removed save the file and when asked for the file name paste in the checksum followed by .txt <br />
<br />
you now have a text file that has the checksum as the name and it contains the checksum this is slightly safer than writing it down. Also if you feel inclined it is easy to print a hard copy. <br />
<br />
So you should now have copy of sha1sum.exe and a copy of its checksum<br />
<br />
Double click sha1sum.exe you should get a pop-up window (you may get the unknown publisher one first and if you are running vista or Windows7 you will need to run as administrator) <br />
<br />
The resuting window has two boxes and two buttons [select file] and [exist] (an unusual spelling of exit) click select file and browse to yor sh1sum.exe file and click. There should now be the file name in the top window and a value in the bottom window and because you used the checksum as a file name it will be fairly easy to compare the two if they are the same then you know sha1sum.exe is good. <br />
<br />
So you now need to do the same for your downloaded image zip file. ('''NOTE''' the zip file not the extracted image file). it may be worth doing the little text file trick for your Wheezy image sha1 check value. <br />
<br />
This is where this may sound patronising but remember each file has its own sha1 value.<br />
<br />
If the values come out the same you can be confident the download was a sucess and it will be safe to unzip the downloaded file.<br />
<br />
Unzipped you will end up with a file that ends .img this is the file you are going to build into your SD card but first you need a program to do this.<br />
<br />
== Image writers ==<br />
Image writers are programs used to stuff a .img file onto an SD card or a pen drive. <br />
<br />
There are two options in Linux<br />
<br />
dd which is command line and not the easiest for the noob feel free to investigate but the following is the command line description for running dd<br />
<br />
dd bs=1M if=[debian .img file] of=[path to your SD card]<br />
<br />
and<br />
<br />
There is a gui tool under the Ubuntu banner called ImageWriter (To use this you will need to add this into Ubuntu and it can be found in the Ubuntu Software Centre under Accessories) This is intuitive compared to dd. <br />
<br />
One easy one for Windows<br />
<br />
This is Win32DiskImage there are a number of locations you can get this <br />
<br />
[http://www.softpedia.com/dyn-postdownload.php?p=173006&t=5&i=1 Win32DiskImage] Note this kicks off an automatic download of the zip. <br />
<br />
This is the same download you will get by following the link on the RaspberryPi Download page. This should work for all versions of windows but you should note that as usual that in Vista and Windows7 you will need to run as administrator. I have been told there is a special version for 64bit instalations but there appears to be no obvious link for this. <br />
<br />
Various Mac options you can find here<br />
<br />
[http://www.linuxfoundation.org/collaborate/workgroups/openprinting/macosximagewriter Link to image writer pages for the mac] <br />
<br />
I make no pretentions to know how to do this onna Mac I hope we can find a Mac punter to come and expand on the Mac options maybe even write its own dedicated wiki page for the Mac noob.<br />
<br />
== Linux dd ==<br />
I am not going to pretend that the linux command line and the dd method is the easiest environment for a noob.<br />
<br />
The following link to [http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Dd_%28Unix%29 dd] is the wikipedia page for dd this is a comprhensive page that has the answers but I would suggest that you save this for the time when your RPi is running and you can play with it there.<br />
<br />
== Ubuntu ImageWriter ==<br />
The Ubuntu ImageWriter is as instinctive as it gets if you are working from a Linux Desktop I need to confifm other Distro's (Distributions = Flavours of Linux)<br />
<br />
One thing to note with ImageWriter is that you cannot select the target till you have selected an image to write.<br />
<br />
== Win32DiskImage ==<br />
This is the Windows tool used to write your .img file to your SD card this like the ubuntu tool is an instinctive in its use. <br />
<br />
Unlike the Ubuntu tool you can select the SD card before you select your .img file some people have had issues with SD card readers particularly in built ones it has to be worth noting that good results have been achieved with the cheapest of card writers (for me poundland). <br />
<br />
One advantage of the Win32DiskImage is that it can be easily used to read as well as write a disk image. <br />
<br />
As a noob you may wonder what is the purpose of this? <br />
<br />
Once you have installed your RPi image and done your customisation you can then use Win32DiskImage [Read] button to create your own image that you can use as a backup. But note you do need to give it a new name you do not want to overwrite your master image. (If you do there is nothing to stop you re-downloading if you do. <br />
<br />
As a noob you can ignore the MD5 Hash option. <br />
<br />
I am not suggesing you should ignore this forever but while you consider yourself still to be a noob just put it on the back burner. <br />
<br />
Do not expect it to be a quick process and if you choose to backup your SD card after using something like the rsapi-config script and the the EXPAND-ROOTFS to use all of your SD card the image will be tailored to the size of card you have pulled it from. <br />
<br />
If you want it to fit in a smaller card you will need to do some image reduction and to be fair thats not really a noob subject enough said it may be somthing for futher study once you gain confidence. <br />
<br />
dd can also be used for backup but as I say dd is not for the faint hearted. <br />
<br />
The .img file selection box has a browse button selecting your file may seem counterintutive for the noob because the actual select button says save its the way it is like a lot of Microsoft stuff. (Just think of the use of the start button to shut down in XP). <br />
<br />
Live with it and click save then to write your SD card click write at this point you will be presented with a dialoge that you aregoing to overwrite everything on the card this is just a check to make sure you understand you are going to wipe your SD card. Then its a wait. Even for the smaller SD card images it will take a while one consideration is the job can be minimised to continue as a background operation. <br />
<br />
When the program cfinishes you will get a popup Complete window with the message "Write sucessful." <br />
<br />
Before you pull the SD card or the writer you should use your "safely remove hardware" option (This will probably not harm your SD card if you don't but it is considered good practice and if you dont and your SD get's corrupted you are only going to need to do it again. <br />
<br />
There has been some comment about using up SD card write cycles but if you go and look at the wiki page for SD cards you will see that the usual number of write cycles for an SD card is about 100,000 even by a conservative estimate that is a fair life.<br />
<br />
== SD image size concerns ==<br />
Having completed an install of an image on your SD card of choice at any point you can insert the card in any reader now if you view the card from Linux you can see the Raspberry partition but from Windows you can only see 12 files for both of the Wheezy installs. <br />
<br />
A lot of noob users are concerned upon loading their image file to a larger card say 32Gig then looking at the image with windows only seeing a 58 meg partition do not worry there is a larger second part that is just not visible from Windows and once installed into a RaspberryPi this will come into force and even looking at the SD card with Linux it will look like it is not using all of the card. <br />
<br />
Upon starting Wheezy with a Coposite or HDMI screen the script raspi-config will run automaticaly <br />
<br />
If you choose there is the option of doing a Blind Login using Putty or another ssh login information here [[RPi_A_Method_for_ssh_blind_login]] if you choose this option you have to run raspi-config manually.<br />
<br />
<br />
== SD Card Lock a heads up ==<br />
The lock the little tab on one side of the SD card is not sensed or used by the RaspberryPi so it can write to the card even if the lock is on so let's follow this scenario <br />
<br />
# You image your card sucessfully<br />
# You accidentaly lock the card<br />
# You boot from the card and realise you want to make changes to the config.txt (next section)<br />
# You put your card into your PC, Mac, whatever reader<br />
# You can't change anything you can not re-image you can't format but you can still change stuff when it's in your RPi<br />
<br />
All because you accidentaly moved that little slide switch on the side of your SD Card.....<br />
<br />
<br />
== Broken SD Card holder ==<br />
A couple of people have reported broken SD Card holders out of the box/packet. <br />
<br />
This is a fit for purpose return but if you have had your RPi a few weeks you may have a problem registering for a return. <br />
<br />
Replacement holders can be bought online but there is an alternative if you are soldering iron confident. <br />
<br />
Poundland in the UK has card readers for a (you guessed it) a pound some of these come in clear cases so it's fairly easy to see if the holder is intact and is not part of the case. <br />
<br />
I appreciate this may not be viable outside the UK. <br />
<br />
Thanks to grahamed in the forum for this one. <br />
<br />
Another option may be to glue in a micro SD adaptor and go to micro SD Cards.<br />
<br />
== config.txt ==<br />
The only file of issue is the config.txt from Windows you need to open this with Wordpad (not notepad) this is the setup editble file and there is now a fully commented version available here [https://raw.github.com/Evilpaul/RPi-config/master/config.txt commented config.txt] <br />
<br />
There are a lot of options in the config.txt file and activation usually consists of removing the # (hash) from the beginning of a line the promote the line from being a comment to being active. <br />
<br />
If you have been reading the forum and your told to edit this file as an option this is the way. Once you have edited remember to save and to retain the name config.txt and if you end up lost by what changes you have made and want to revert to the original just re-image your SD card. <br />
<br />
This is the configuration file that is accessed at start up for most installs you will not need to change this and if you are in any doubt it will be worth reading the fully commented version linked earlier.<br />
<br />
== Cable connections ==<br />
The following sections cover some of the options for connecting your RaspberryPi<br />
<br />
== Link to Verified Hardware Page ==<br />
<br />
[[RPi VerifiedPeripherals]]<br />
<br />
== Power to the RPi ==<br />
A lot of noob problems can be linked back to power supply of which you have a vast number of options. <br />
<br />
The primary and probably the easiest is to use a phone charger with a micro SD plug. <br />
<br />
Second choice would be using a cable with a USB Male "A" type on one end and a Micro USB on the other and there are a number of ways of using this cable. <br />
<br />
The first option I tried was using a USB from my PC on the USB "A" end and the Miro USB into the RaspberryPi. There have been issues with this as a connection from a laptop but a USB 3 port on a PC is considered more than adequate. And my USB 2 worked ok. <br />
<br />
Third choice is a plug that has a USB socket in place of the cable these appear to work well and there are a lot of mobile phones that come with these as standard. <br />
<br />
Fourth and probably best option is a Powered USB Hub and there is a rather nice circular option in that the Hub can power your RaspberryPi but then your RaspberryPi USB port can be used to distribute your usb options by connecting your hub with a USB "A"-"B" cable. <br />
<br />
I am now using this method with a Belkin 7 port USB Hub model F5U010 this is not the only hub option it just happens to be the one that works for me. <br />
<br />
There have been a few questions in the forum by noobs getting a colour rainbow flash (the initalising graphics chip) and then sometimes some text at which point the RaspberryPi appears to shut down with a black screen and then appears to start again. <br />
<br />
This is almost certainly a power issue but the cause may not be the power supply there are a number of keyboards particularly those with LED's or integral USB hubs which try to draw too much power from the USB port. <br />
<br />
There is an argument for having the cheapest and simplest Keyboard and Mouse for a first time start.<br />
<br />
== Ethernet ==<br />
There are a lot of calls for help with wi-fi networking at this time there are some USB wi-fi solutions a lot of these users with wireless routers if they go back to the box (assuming they still have it will probably find an ethernet 10baseT RJ45 cable that came with their router. <br />
<br />
Until the wireless solutions are in place your best startup will be by using a network cable. <br />
<br />
Most (note not all) Netgear routers/hubs the DHCP embedded in the router/hub software should issue IP addresses that follow this pattern.<br />
<br />
192.168.0.x If this is the case the hub probably uses 1 in place of the x as it's own address. Making the hub address 192.168.0.1<br />
<br />
The primary computer will probably use 2 giving it the address of 192.168.0.2 and the then the later ones will follow in sequence.<br />
<br />
Other brand routers follow their own pattern for example I happen to know that a "Zoom X6 ADSL Router" uses an address of 10.0.0.2 so a Warning here if the method using 192.168.0.x does not work and your router/hub is not Virginmedia (re-badged netgear) or Netgear or some other re-badged Netgear then its likely that your router IP addresses lie in some other range.<br />
<br />
You may have to resort to reading the manual (shock horror) for your router/hub. <br />
<br />
Its worth noting that you can test your RaspberryPi with just the network cable and a power connection then using an ssh remote login theres a whole section on this [[RPi_A_Method_for_ssh_blind_login | Blind Login Here]]. <br />
<br />
This can eliminate a cycling restart caused by a flaky keyboard.<br />
<br />
== USB 1 & 2 ==<br />
Your RaspberryPi has two USB ports without a USB hub you are limited to two so with a Mouse and Keyboard of course if you are choosing to run as command line and forgoing the gui screen startx then not having a mouse. <br />
<br />
If you are set on learning the nuts and bolts of Linux command line is a good way to start. <br />
<br />
If you are wanting to explore the options of the RaspberryPi Gui with minimal intrusion then the easiest option is a mouse and keyboard and ethernet and explore the vagaries of wi-fi attaching pen-drives or even printers you really do need to be exploring options using powered USB hubs.<br />
<br />
== Video ==<br />
There are a lot of questions about using VGA Monitors and you can using a converter but they are not cheap this is not simply a case of a cable VGA is Analogue and HDMI is Digital its like AM and FM radio. <br />
<br />
It is by far a cheaper option of picking up an old (not too old) TV with a Scart or an RCA AV input socket. For a Scart you will need a conversion plug to change the RCA Composite to Scart although these are relativly cheap and if the TV has an AV (normally yellow) Phono input it will be even cheaper. <br />
<br />
HDMI to DVI Is an option and valid if you have a DVI monitor allready but the best fix is try and source a TV with HDMI.<br />
<br />
==HDMI ==<br />
Given the HDMI solution cables can be bought at the budget end for as little as 1GBP yes a quid at Poundland. I have two of these and both are up to the task. <br />
<br />
The Default font with the Wheezy install is small and this is not an issue if you jump to startx and the gui screen but if you are planning to engage with the command line I would recommend you follow this [[RPi_Command_line_font_size | Link]] this will tell you about a quick way of changing the Default FontFace and FontSize. <br />
<br />
This is not the only way but it is quick and easy to understand. Always a consideration for the noob user. <br />
<br />
There can arise a situation where you plug in an HDMI monitor and get a no signal response on your TV. <br />
<br />
This can quite often be because the HDMI line was not active at start up you need your TV on and the HDMI live otherwise it defaults to Composite but there is a fix in the config.txt mentioned earlier remove the # (hash) from the start of the <br />
<br />
#hdmi_force_hotplug=1<br />
<br />
line this wil make your RPi believe it has found the active signal on the HDMI socket.<br />
<br />
== Composite ==<br />
This is the yellow phono plug oposite the HDMI a lot of TV's these days have a yellow phono socket often labled AV you can also get whats affectionaly called an RCA Scart In (Maplin code L83BA) There are cheaper suppliers(saw one in poundland last weekend). This converts a Scart socket to three phonos one is Composite Video and the other two are left and right audio. <br />
<br />
The default setting for the composite output uses the american standard from the three widley available globaly these are <br />
<br />
PAL = '''P'''hase '''A'''lternating '''L'''ine (British)<br />
<br />
SECAM = '''Sé'''quentiel '''c'''ouleur '''à m'''émoire (French)<br />
<br />
NTSC = '''N'''ational '''T'''elevision '''S'''ystem '''C'''ommittee (American)<br />
<br />
[http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/File:PAL-NTSC-SECAM.svg Map of who uses which]<br />
<br />
Setting this up is one of the lines in the config.txt file mentioned earlier.<br />
<br />
For this the line you need to change is this<br />
<br />
#sdtv_mode=0<br />
<br />
Remove the # (hash)<br />
<br />
and choose the number from this list<br />
<br />
0 Normal NTSC (Default)<br />
1 Japanese version of NTSC - no pedestal<br />
2 Normal PAL<br />
3 Brazilian version of PAL - 525/60 rather than 625/50, different subcarrier<br />
<br />
Conversation Capture from the forum<br />
<br />
Melondrop<br />
Running raspbian and using composite out to an old tv.<br />
The problem im having is the bottom text of menus (usually with the ok and close buttons on them) is getting cut off. <br />
I dont mean cut off the bottom of the screen I mean cut off like all menus are too big and get cut off behind the taskbar. <br />
I went through dpi settings and every other setting i could find but couldnt find a way to shrink any menus<br />
<br />
bredman<br />
Most applications assume a minimum screen size, normally 640x480 or maybe larger. This causes a problem with composite monitors with a lower resolution.<br />
If the window or menu is too large to fit on screen, press the Alt key while holding down the left mouse button and moving the mouse. <br />
This will move the window on the screen. Not a perfect solution, but better than nothing.<br />
<br />
dom<br />
The other option is to increase the resolution in X. You can do this with (in config.txt)<br />
framebuffer_width=800<br />
framebuffer_height=600<br />
<br />
Detail on dom's option here [[RPi config.txt]]<br />
<br />
== Sound ==<br />
There are a few options for sound and as a noob exploring command line you are probably a fair way from using it in anger but if you are going down the startx gui screen then you are probably going to want to explore sound. <br />
<br />
The sound port of the RaspberryPi is the small jack socket next to the yellow composite phono If you are going the composite Scart/AV route then a stereo jack to twin phono lead see Maplins N12GW or N04JZ will work or even use an L42AU then a couple of stadard male phono leads. These aree not the only Maplin numbers theres lots of variations even gold plated.<br />
<br />
Getting sound from an HDMI requires you piggy back the sound on the HDMI signal. <br />
<br />
I know this works with a PC using HDMI and I can't see why it will not work for the RaspberryPi but none of the config.txt settings obviously support this and I have been aware of a lot of forum chatter on this subject. <br />
<br />
For the time being as a noob plug some PC external speakers into the socket next to composite it's far easier.<br />
<br />
== The SD Card slot ==<br />
There is a massive list of SD cards compatable with the RaspberryPi<br />
<br />
If you have an SD Card capacity bigger than 2gig prefered minimum 4gig and it's spare and you don't mind blanking it then you can image it with Wheezy and if it does not work so be it. <br />
<br />
I have several and 3 are 4gig SDHC and every card I have tried to date has worked.<br />
<br />
== The Wheezy Login and The tidy shutdown ==<br />
We have to assume that early on in the playground that is a functioning RaspberryPi you will want to start and shut down and just like your PC or Mac it is best that this is done in an orderly fasion<br />
<br />
We are assuming you are using Wheezy <br />
Login = pi<br />
password = raspberry<br />
<br />
Till you change it, probably in raspi-config<br />
<br />
To do the shutdown you need to be logged in and at the command line enter the following<br />
<br />
sudo halt<br />
<br />
If you are using a screen it will go off but if you are using a blind login or have failed to get a screen running and are running on guess work (prtending you can see what you are typing. A sucessfull halt (shutdown) will leave you with only the red power (PWR) led lit. <br />
<br />
At this point feel free to unplug.<br />
<br />
== Hey look LED's ==<br />
On your RaspberryPi in the corner you have five surface mount LED's labled as follows<br />
<br />
#Green OK<br />
#Red PWR<br />
#Green FDX<br />
#Green LNK<br />
#Yellow 10M<br />
<br />
With the fifth one nearest the corner.<br />
<br />
== Backup your work ==<br />
Look at the section about the Win32DiskImage<br />
<br />
<br />
[[Category:RaspberryPi]]</div>Bgirardothttps://elinux.org/index.php?title=RPi_Noob_Guide_to_the_Pi_image&diff=204764RPi Noob Guide to the Pi image2012-12-26T19:05:16Z<p>Bgirardot: /* HDMI */ typo fixes</p>
<hr />
<div>'''Heads up there have been loads of posts on the Forum caused by Power issues, Wireless and hub incorporated keyboards and incorectly seated SD cards (partiularly where the SD card holder had a broken edge) if you are having problems check the Verified Hardware list If your SD holder is broken then contact your supplier re-returns (You should not be going to the back of the queue). If you can live with a bodge that seats your SD card then feel free but the recomendation is if it is broken out of the box seek a replacement from your supplier.''' <br />
<br />
The intention of this page is to provide the detail of making a working SD card and some early hardware choices for a RaspberryPi keeping instructions and explanations jargon free as much as posible and explaining any neccessary jargon as it appears. <br />
<br />
Also to provide some answers for the problems experienced by Noob users. <br />
<br />
== Getting an image ==<br />
What is an image. <br />
<br />
An image is a file you download that contains the bare minimum to setup a RaspberryPi SD card. The SD card is that bit of plastic you can put in your camera to store pictures and it is more than capable of acting as the primary disk for your RaspberryPi<br />
<br />
The absolute minimum to load a Wheezy image is a 2 Gig (Gigabyte) SD card (there are images that will fit on a 1 Gig but not Wheezy) but you will not have much space so I reccomend a 4 Gig and as a noob have two if you can. <br />
<br />
You can move to bigger ones later I started with a 2 Gig I extracted from an old camera and a 4 Gig I scrounged from an old MP3 player<br />
<br />
If you have a camera that takes SD cards use the cameras format option its quick and usually works.<br />
<br />
Ok most of this page will work around the Wheezy images but should work for any image but your going to need to get an image.<br />
<br />
The Wheezy image at this time has two versions and each has two download methods<br />
<br />
The older version [http://www.raspberrypi.org/archives/1435 Wheezy 2012-06-18 Beta is available here]<br />
<br />
The current one [http://www.raspberrypi.org/downloads Wheezy-Raspbian-2012-07-15 is on the main download page here]<br />
<br />
Both give the option of a direct browser download or a download using Torrent.<br />
<br />
Torrent is better for the community if you know how to use it but if you do not just let your browser do the work and take the Direct Download either way you will end up with a zip file. <br />
<br />
Do not unzip yet you need to do a check on this zip file before you unpack (unzip) it.<br />
<br />
== The checksum and using it ==<br />
On the download page you will see a long string with the name SHA-1 this is the checksum if you think any computer file is a sequence of numbers if you were to add all of those together you would get a result an answer. <br />
<br />
Get one of the numbers wrong and the answer is wrong well the SHA-1 is a hexadecimal (base16) total for the zip file you downloaded.<br />
<br />
This is actually a lie SHA1 is actually a fancy algorithim called a '''S'''ecure '''H'''ash '''A'''lgorithm but of which there are four. As a noob don't worry it is all done for you. <br />
<br />
There is a little program SHA1SUM.exe that if you feed it your zip file will calculate an SHA-1 number and if that number is the same one on the download page you can be confident the download worked correctly. <br />
<br />
[http://code.google.com/p/toolkits/downloads/detail?name=sha1sum.exe&can=2&q= A simple place to get sha1sum.exe] this is cute because it comes with its own SHA1 checksum. <br />
<br />
Highlight and copy the checksum create a new text file (I use wordpad) and paste the checksum into it, it may add some leading space so delete that highlight and copy it with the leading spaces removed save the file and when asked for the file name paste in the checksum followed by .txt <br />
<br />
you now have a text file that has the checksum as the name and it contains the checksum this is slightly safer than writing it down. Also if you feel inclined it is easy to print a hard copy. <br />
<br />
So you should now have copy of sha1sum.exe and a copy of its checksum<br />
<br />
Double click sha1sum.exe you should get a pop-up window (you may get the unknown publisher one first and if you are running vista or Windows7 you will need to run as administrator) <br />
<br />
The resuting window has two boxes and two buttons [select file] and [exist] (an unusual spelling of exit) click select file and browse to yor sh1sum.exe file and click. There should now be the file name in the top window and a value in the bottom window and because you used the checksum as a file name it will be fairly easy to compare the two if they are the same then you know sha1sum.exe is good. <br />
<br />
So you now need to do the same for your downloaded image zip file. ('''NOTE''' the zip file not the extracted image file). it may be worth doing the little text file trick for your Wheezy image sha1 check value. <br />
<br />
This is where this may sound patronising but remember each file has its own sha1 value.<br />
<br />
If the values come out the same you can be confident the download was a sucess and it will be safe to unzip the downloaded file.<br />
<br />
Unzipped you will end up with a file that ends .img this is the file you are going to build into your SD card but first you need a program to do this.<br />
<br />
== Image writers ==<br />
Image writers are programs used to stuff a .img file onto an SD card or a pen drive. <br />
<br />
There are two options in Linux<br />
<br />
dd which is command line and not the easiest for the noob feel free to investigate but the following is the command line description for running dd<br />
<br />
dd bs=1M if=[debian .img file] of=[path to your SD card]<br />
<br />
and<br />
<br />
There is a gui tool under the Ubuntu banner called ImageWriter (To use this you will need to add this into Ubuntu and it can be found in the Ubuntu Software Centre under Accessories) This is intuitive compared to dd. <br />
<br />
One easy one for Windows<br />
<br />
This is Win32DiskImage there are a number of locations you can get this <br />
<br />
[http://www.softpedia.com/dyn-postdownload.php?p=173006&t=5&i=1 Win32DiskImage] Note this kicks off an automatic download of the zip. <br />
<br />
This is the same download you will get by following the link on the RaspberryPi Download page. This should work for all versions of windows but you should note that as usual that in Vista and Windows7 you will need to run as administrator. I have been told there is a special version for 64bit instalations but there appears to be no obvious link for this. <br />
<br />
Various Mac options you can find here<br />
<br />
[http://www.linuxfoundation.org/collaborate/workgroups/openprinting/macosximagewriter Link to image writer pages for the mac] <br />
<br />
I make no pretentions to know how to do this onna Mac I hope we can find a Mac punter to come and expand on the Mac options maybe even write its own dedicated wiki page for the Mac noob.<br />
<br />
== Linux dd ==<br />
I am not going to pretend that the linux command line and the dd method is the easiest environment for a noob.<br />
<br />
The following link to [http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Dd_%28Unix%29 dd] is the wikipedia page for dd this is a comprhensive page that has the answers but I would suggest that you save this for the time when your RPi is running and you can play with it there.<br />
<br />
== Ubuntu ImageWriter ==<br />
The Ubuntu ImageWriter is as instinctive as it gets if you are working from a Linux Desktop I need to confifm other Distro's (Distributions = Flavours of Linux)<br />
<br />
One thing to note with ImageWriter is that you cannot select the target till you have selected an image to write.<br />
<br />
== Win32DiskImage ==<br />
This is the Windows tool used to write your .img file to your SD card this like the ubuntu tool is an instinctive in its use. <br />
<br />
Unlike the Ubuntu tool you can select the SD card before you select your .img file some people have had issues with SD card readers particularly in built ones it has to be worth noting that good results have been achieved with the cheapest of card writers (for me poundland). <br />
<br />
One advantage of the Win32DiskImage is that it can be easily used to read as well as write a disk image. <br />
<br />
As a noob you may wonder what is the purpose of this? <br />
<br />
Once you have installed your RPi image and done your customisation you can then use Win32DiskImage [Read] button to create your own image that you can use as a backup. But note you do need to give it a new name you do not want to overwrite your master image. (If you do there is nothing to stop you re-downloading if you do. <br />
<br />
As a noob you can ignore the MD5 Hash option. <br />
<br />
I am not suggesing you should ignore this forever but while you consider yourself still to be a noob just put it on the back burner. <br />
<br />
Do not expect it to be a quick process and if you choose to backup your SD card after using something like the rsapi-config script and the the EXPAND-ROOTFS to use all of your SD card the image will be tailored to the size of card you have pulled it from. <br />
<br />
If you want it to fit in a smaller card you will need to do some image reduction and to be fair thats not really a noob subject enough said it may be somthing for futher study once you gain confidence. <br />
<br />
dd can also be used for backup but as I say dd is not for the faint hearted. <br />
<br />
The .img file selection box has a browse button selecting your file may seem counterintutive for the noob because the actual select button says save its the way it is like a lot of Microsoft stuff. (Just think of the use of the start button to shut down in XP). <br />
<br />
Live with it and click save then to write your SD card click write at this point you will be presented with a dialoge that you aregoing to overwrite everything on the card this is just a check to make sure you understand you are going to wipe your SD card. Then its a wait. Even for the smaller SD card images it will take a while one consideration is the job can be minimised to continue as a background operation. <br />
<br />
When the program cfinishes you will get a popup Complete window with the message "Write sucessful." <br />
<br />
Before you pull the SD card or the writer you should use your "safely remove hardware" option (This will probably not harm your SD card if you don't but it is considered good practice and if you dont and your SD get's corrupted you are only going to need to do it again. <br />
<br />
There has been some comment about using up SD card write cycles but if you go and look at the wiki page for SD cards you will see that the usual number of write cycles for an SD card is about 100,000 even by a conservative estimate that is a fair life.<br />
<br />
== SD image size concerns ==<br />
Having completed an install of an image on your SD card of choice at any point you can insert the card in any reader now if you view the card from Linux you can see the Raspberry partition but from Windows you can only see 12 files for both of the Wheezy installs. <br />
<br />
A lot of noob users are concerned upon loading their image file to a larger card say 32Gig then looking at the image with windows only seeing a 58 meg partition do not worry there is a larger second part that is just not visible from Windows and once installed into a RaspberryPi this will come into force and even looking at the SD card with Linux it will look like it is not using all of the card. <br />
<br />
Upon starting Wheezy with a Coposite or HDMI screen the script raspi-config will run automaticaly <br />
<br />
If you choose there is the option of doing a Blind Login using Putty or another ssh login information here [[RPi_A_Method_for_ssh_blind_login]] if you choose this option you have to run raspi-config manually.<br />
<br />
<br />
== SD Card Lock a heads up ==<br />
The lock the little tab on one side of the SD card is not sensed or used by the RaspberryPi so it can write to the card even if the lock is on so let's follow this scenario <br />
<br />
# You image your card sucessfully<br />
# You accidentaly lock the card<br />
# You boot from the card and realise you want to make changes to the config.txt (next section)<br />
# You put your card into your PC, Mac, whatever reader<br />
# You can't change anything you can not re-image you can't format but you can still change stuff when it's in your RPi<br />
<br />
All because you accidentaly moved that little slide switch on the side of your SD Card.....<br />
<br />
<br />
== Broken SD Card holder ==<br />
A couple of people have reported broken SD Card holders out of the box/packet. <br />
<br />
This is a fit for purpose return but if you have had your RPi a few weeks you may have a problem registering for a return. <br />
<br />
Replacement holders can be bought online but there is an alternative if you are soldering iron confident. <br />
<br />
Poundland in the UK has card readers for a (you guessed it) a pound some of these come in clear cases so it's fairly easy to see if the holder is intact and is not part of the case. <br />
<br />
I appreciate this may not be viable outside the UK. <br />
<br />
Thanks to grahamed in the forum for this one. <br />
<br />
Another option may be to glue in a micro SD adaptor and go to micro SD Cards.<br />
<br />
== config.txt ==<br />
The only file of issue is the config.txt from Windows you need to open this with Wordpad (not notepad) this is the setup editble file and there is now a fully commented version available here [https://raw.github.com/Evilpaul/RPi-config/master/config.txt commented config.txt] <br />
<br />
There are a lot of options in the config.txt file and activation usually consists of removing the # (hash) from the beginning of a line the promote the line from being a comment to being active. <br />
<br />
If you have been reading the forum and your told to edit this file as an option this is the way. Once you have edited remember to save and to retain the name config.txt and if you end up lost by what changes you have made and want to revert to the original just re-image your SD card. <br />
<br />
This is the configuration file that is accessed at start up for most installs you will not need to change this and if you are in any doubt it will be worth reading the fully commented version linked earlier.<br />
<br />
== Cable connections ==<br />
The following sections cover some of the options for connecting your RaspberryPi<br />
<br />
== Link to Verified Hardware Page ==<br />
<br />
[[RPi VerifiedPeripherals]]<br />
<br />
== Power to the RPi ==<br />
A lot of noob problems can be linked back to power supply of which you have a vast number of options. <br />
<br />
The primary and probably the easiest is to use a phone charger with a micro SD plug. <br />
<br />
Second choice would be using a cable with a USB Male "A" type on one end and a Micro USB on the other and there are a number of ways of using this cable. <br />
<br />
The first option I tried was using a USB from my PC on the USB "A" end and the Miro USB into the RaspberryPi. There have been issues with this as a connection from a laptop but a USB 3 port on a PC is considered more than adequate. And my USB 2 worked ok. <br />
<br />
Third choice is a plug that has a USB socket in place of the cable these appear to work well and there are a lot of mobile phones that come with these as standard. <br />
<br />
Fourth and probably best option is a Powered USB Hub and there is a rather nice circular option in that the Hub can power your RaspberryPi but then your RaspberryPi USB port can be used to distribute your usb options by connecting your hub with a USB "A"-"B" cable. <br />
<br />
I am now using this method with a Belkin 7 port USB Hub model F5U010 this is not the only hub option it just happens to be the one that works for me. <br />
<br />
There have been a few questions in the forum by noobs getting a colour rainbow flash (the initalising graphics chip) and then sometimes some text at which point the RaspberryPi appears to shut down with a black screen and then appears to start again. <br />
<br />
This is almost certainly a power issue but the cause may not be the power supply there are a number of keyboards particularly those with LED's or integral USB hubs which try to draw too much power from the USB port. <br />
<br />
There is an argument for having the cheapest and simplest Keyboard and Mouse for a first time start.<br />
<br />
== Ethernet ==<br />
There are a lot of calls for help with wi-fi networking at this time there are some USB wi-fi solutions a lot of these users with wireless routers if they go back to the box (assuming they still have it will probably find an ethernet 10baseT RJ45 cable that came with their router. <br />
<br />
Until the wireless solutions are in place your best startup will be by using a network cable. <br />
<br />
Most (note not all) Netgear routers/hubs the DHCP embedded in the router/hub software should issue IP addresses that follow this pattern.<br />
<br />
192.168.0.x If this is the case the hub probably uses 1 in place of the x as it's own address. Making the hub address 192.168.0.1<br />
<br />
The primary computer will probably use 2 giving it the address of 192.168.0.2 and the then the later ones will follow in sequence.<br />
<br />
Other brand routers follow their own pattern for example I happen to know that a "Zoom X6 ADSL Router" uses an address of 10.0.0.2 so a Warning here if the method using 192.168.0.x does not work and your router/hub is not Virginmedia (re-badged netgear) or Netgear or some other re-badged Netgear then its likely that your router IP addresses lie in some other range.<br />
<br />
You may have to resort to reading the manual (shock horror) for your router/hub. <br />
<br />
Its worth noting that you can test your RaspberryPi with just the network cable and a power connection then using an ssh remote login theres a whole section on this [[RPi_A_Method_for_ssh_blind_login | Blind Login Here]]. <br />
<br />
This can eliminate a cycling restart caused by a flaky keyboard.<br />
<br />
== USB 1 & 2 ==<br />
Your RaspberryPi has two USB ports without a USB hub you are limited to two so with a Mouse and Keyboard of course if you are choosing to run as command line and forgoing the gui screen startx then not having a mouse. <br />
<br />
If you are set on learning the nuts and bolts of Linux command line is a good way to start. <br />
<br />
If you are wanting to explore the options of the RaspberryPi Gui with minimal intrusion then the easiest option is a mouse and keyboard and ethernet and explore the vagaries of wi-fi attaching pen-drives or even printers you really do need to be exploring options using powered USB hubs.<br />
<br />
== Video ==<br />
There are a lot of questions about using VGA Monitors and you can using a converter but they are not cheap this is not simply a case of a cable VGA is Analogue and HDMI is Digital its like AM and FM radio. <br />
<br />
It is by far a cheaper option of picking up an old (not too old) TV with a Scart or an RCA AV input socket. For a Scart you will need a conversion plug to change the RCA Composite to Scart although these are relativly cheap and if the TV has an AV (normally yellow) Phono input it will be even cheaper. <br />
<br />
HDMI to DVI Is an option and valid if you have a DVI monitor allready but the best fix is try and source a TV with HDMI.<br />
<br />
==HDMI ==<br />
Given the HDMI solution cables can be bought at the budget end for as little as 1GBP yes a quid at Poundland. I have two of these and both are up to the task. <br />
<br />
The Default font with the Wheezy install is small and this is not an issue if you jump to startx and the gui screen but if you are planning to engage with the command line I would recommend you follow this [[RPi_Command_line_font_size | Link]] this will tell you about a quick way of changing the Default FontFace and FontSize. <br />
<br />
This is not the only way but it is quick and easy to understand. Always a consideration for the noob user. <br />
<br />
There can arise a situation where you plug in an HDMI monitor and get a no signal response on your TV. <br />
<br />
This can quite often be because the HDMI line was not active at start up you need your TV on and the HDMI live otherwise it defaults to Composite but there is a fix in the config.txt mentioned earlier remove the # (hash) from the start of the <br />
<br />
#hdmi_force_hotplug=1<br />
<br />
line this wil make your RPi believe it has found the active signal on the HDMI socket.<br />
<br />
== Composite ==<br />
This is the yellow phono plug oposite the HDMI a lot of TV's these days have a yellow phono socket often labled AV you can also get whats affectionaly called an RCA Scart In (Maplin code L83BA) There are cheaper suppliers(saw one in poundland last weekend). This converts a Scart socket to three phonos one is Composite Video and the other two are left and right audio. <br />
<br />
The default setting for the composite output uses the american standard from the three widley available globaly these are <br />
<br />
PAL = '''P'''hase '''A'''lternating '''L'''ine (British)<br />
<br />
SECAM = '''Sé'''quentiel '''c'''ouleur '''à m'''émoire (French)<br />
<br />
NTSC = '''N'''ational '''T'''elevision '''S'''ystem '''C'''ommittee (American)<br />
<br />
[http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/File:PAL-NTSC-SECAM.svg Map of who uses which]<br />
<br />
Setting this up is one of the lines in the config.txt file mentioned earlier.<br />
<br />
For this the line you need to change is this<br />
<br />
#sdtv_mode=0<br />
<br />
Remove the # (hash)<br />
<br />
and choose the number from this list<br />
<br />
0 Normal NTSC (Default)<br />
1 Japanese version of NTSC - no pedestal<br />
2 Normal PAL<br />
3 Brazilian version of PAL - 525/60 rather than 625/50, different subcarrier<br />
<br />
Coversation Capture from the forum<br />
<br />
Melondrop<br />
Running raspbian and using composite out to an old tv.<br />
The problem im having is the bottom text of menus (usually with the ok and close buttons on them) is getting cut off. <br />
I dont mean cut off the bottom of the screen I mean cut off like all menus are too big and get cut off behind the taskbar. <br />
I went through dpi settings and every other setting i could find but couldnt find a way to shrink any menus<br />
<br />
bredman<br />
Most applications assume a minimum screen size, normally 640x480 or maybe larger. This causes a problem with composite monitors with a lower resolution.<br />
If the window or menu is too large to fit on screen, press the Alt key while holding down the left mouse button and moving the mouse. <br />
This will move the window on the screen. Not a perfect solution, but better than nothing.<br />
<br />
dom<br />
The other option is to increase the resolution in X. You can do this with (in config.txt)<br />
framebuffer_width=800<br />
framebuffer_height=600<br />
<br />
Detail on dom's option here [[RPi config.txt]]<br />
<br />
== Sound ==<br />
There are a few options for sound and as a noob exploring command line you are probably a fair way from using it in anger but if you are going down the startx gui screen then you are probably going to want to explore sound. <br />
<br />
The sound port of the RaspberryPi is the small jack socket next to the yellow composite phono If you are going the composite Scart/AV route then a stereo jack to twin phono lead see Maplins N12GW or N04JZ will work or even use an L42AU then a couple of stadard male phono leads. These aree not the only Maplin numbers theres lots of variations even gold plated.<br />
<br />
Getting sound from an HDMI requires you piggy back the sound on the HDMI signal. <br />
<br />
I know this works with a PC using HDMI and I can't see why it will not work for the RaspberryPi but none of the config.txt settings obviously support this and I have been aware of a lot of forum chatter on this subject. <br />
<br />
For the time being as a noob plug some PC external speakers into the socket next to composite it's far easier.<br />
<br />
== The SD Card slot ==<br />
There is a massive list of SD cards compatable with the RaspberryPi<br />
<br />
If you have an SD Card capacity bigger than 2gig prefered minimum 4gig and it's spare and you don't mind blanking it then you can image it with Wheezy and if it does not work so be it. <br />
<br />
I have several and 3 are 4gig SDHC and every card I have tried to date has worked.<br />
<br />
== The Wheezy Login and The tidy shutdown ==<br />
We have to assume that early on in the playground that is a functioning RaspberryPi you will want to start and shut down and just like your PC or Mac it is best that this is done in an orderly fasion<br />
<br />
We are assuming you are using Wheezy <br />
Login = pi<br />
password = raspberry<br />
<br />
Till you change it, probably in raspi-config<br />
<br />
To do the shutdown you need to be logged in and at the command line enter the following<br />
<br />
sudo halt<br />
<br />
If you are using a screen it will go off but if you are using a blind login or have failed to get a screen running and are running on guess work (prtending you can see what you are typing. A sucessfull halt (shutdown) will leave you with only the red power (PWR) led lit. <br />
<br />
At this point feel free to unplug.<br />
<br />
== Hey look LED's ==<br />
On your RaspberryPi in the corner you have five surface mount LED's labled as follows<br />
<br />
#Green OK<br />
#Red PWR<br />
#Green FDX<br />
#Green LNK<br />
#Yellow 10M<br />
<br />
With the fifth one nearest the corner.<br />
<br />
== Backup your work ==<br />
Look at the section about the Win32DiskImage<br />
<br />
<br />
[[Category:RaspberryPi]]</div>Bgirardothttps://elinux.org/index.php?title=RPi_Noob_Guide_to_the_Pi_image&diff=204758RPi Noob Guide to the Pi image2012-12-26T19:03:09Z<p>Bgirardot: /* USB 1 & 2 */ typo fix</p>
<hr />
<div>'''Heads up there have been loads of posts on the Forum caused by Power issues, Wireless and hub incorporated keyboards and incorectly seated SD cards (partiularly where the SD card holder had a broken edge) if you are having problems check the Verified Hardware list If your SD holder is broken then contact your supplier re-returns (You should not be going to the back of the queue). If you can live with a bodge that seats your SD card then feel free but the recomendation is if it is broken out of the box seek a replacement from your supplier.''' <br />
<br />
The intention of this page is to provide the detail of making a working SD card and some early hardware choices for a RaspberryPi keeping instructions and explanations jargon free as much as posible and explaining any neccessary jargon as it appears. <br />
<br />
Also to provide some answers for the problems experienced by Noob users. <br />
<br />
== Getting an image ==<br />
What is an image. <br />
<br />
An image is a file you download that contains the bare minimum to setup a RaspberryPi SD card. The SD card is that bit of plastic you can put in your camera to store pictures and it is more than capable of acting as the primary disk for your RaspberryPi<br />
<br />
The absolute minimum to load a Wheezy image is a 2 Gig (Gigabyte) SD card (there are images that will fit on a 1 Gig but not Wheezy) but you will not have much space so I reccomend a 4 Gig and as a noob have two if you can. <br />
<br />
You can move to bigger ones later I started with a 2 Gig I extracted from an old camera and a 4 Gig I scrounged from an old MP3 player<br />
<br />
If you have a camera that takes SD cards use the cameras format option its quick and usually works.<br />
<br />
Ok most of this page will work around the Wheezy images but should work for any image but your going to need to get an image.<br />
<br />
The Wheezy image at this time has two versions and each has two download methods<br />
<br />
The older version [http://www.raspberrypi.org/archives/1435 Wheezy 2012-06-18 Beta is available here]<br />
<br />
The current one [http://www.raspberrypi.org/downloads Wheezy-Raspbian-2012-07-15 is on the main download page here]<br />
<br />
Both give the option of a direct browser download or a download using Torrent.<br />
<br />
Torrent is better for the community if you know how to use it but if you do not just let your browser do the work and take the Direct Download either way you will end up with a zip file. <br />
<br />
Do not unzip yet you need to do a check on this zip file before you unpack (unzip) it.<br />
<br />
== The checksum and using it ==<br />
On the download page you will see a long string with the name SHA-1 this is the checksum if you think any computer file is a sequence of numbers if you were to add all of those together you would get a result an answer. <br />
<br />
Get one of the numbers wrong and the answer is wrong well the SHA-1 is a hexadecimal (base16) total for the zip file you downloaded.<br />
<br />
This is actually a lie SHA1 is actually a fancy algorithim called a '''S'''ecure '''H'''ash '''A'''lgorithm but of which there are four. As a noob don't worry it is all done for you. <br />
<br />
There is a little program SHA1SUM.exe that if you feed it your zip file will calculate an SHA-1 number and if that number is the same one on the download page you can be confident the download worked correctly. <br />
<br />
[http://code.google.com/p/toolkits/downloads/detail?name=sha1sum.exe&can=2&q= A simple place to get sha1sum.exe] this is cute because it comes with its own SHA1 checksum. <br />
<br />
Highlight and copy the checksum create a new text file (I use wordpad) and paste the checksum into it, it may add some leading space so delete that highlight and copy it with the leading spaces removed save the file and when asked for the file name paste in the checksum followed by .txt <br />
<br />
you now have a text file that has the checksum as the name and it contains the checksum this is slightly safer than writing it down. Also if you feel inclined it is easy to print a hard copy. <br />
<br />
So you should now have copy of sha1sum.exe and a copy of its checksum<br />
<br />
Double click sha1sum.exe you should get a pop-up window (you may get the unknown publisher one first and if you are running vista or Windows7 you will need to run as administrator) <br />
<br />
The resuting window has two boxes and two buttons [select file] and [exist] (an unusual spelling of exit) click select file and browse to yor sh1sum.exe file and click. There should now be the file name in the top window and a value in the bottom window and because you used the checksum as a file name it will be fairly easy to compare the two if they are the same then you know sha1sum.exe is good. <br />
<br />
So you now need to do the same for your downloaded image zip file. ('''NOTE''' the zip file not the extracted image file). it may be worth doing the little text file trick for your Wheezy image sha1 check value. <br />
<br />
This is where this may sound patronising but remember each file has its own sha1 value.<br />
<br />
If the values come out the same you can be confident the download was a sucess and it will be safe to unzip the downloaded file.<br />
<br />
Unzipped you will end up with a file that ends .img this is the file you are going to build into your SD card but first you need a program to do this.<br />
<br />
== Image writers ==<br />
Image writers are programs used to stuff a .img file onto an SD card or a pen drive. <br />
<br />
There are two options in Linux<br />
<br />
dd which is command line and not the easiest for the noob feel free to investigate but the following is the command line description for running dd<br />
<br />
dd bs=1M if=[debian .img file] of=[path to your SD card]<br />
<br />
and<br />
<br />
There is a gui tool under the Ubuntu banner called ImageWriter (To use this you will need to add this into Ubuntu and it can be found in the Ubuntu Software Centre under Accessories) This is intuitive compared to dd. <br />
<br />
One easy one for Windows<br />
<br />
This is Win32DiskImage there are a number of locations you can get this <br />
<br />
[http://www.softpedia.com/dyn-postdownload.php?p=173006&t=5&i=1 Win32DiskImage] Note this kicks off an automatic download of the zip. <br />
<br />
This is the same download you will get by following the link on the RaspberryPi Download page. This should work for all versions of windows but you should note that as usual that in Vista and Windows7 you will need to run as administrator. I have been told there is a special version for 64bit instalations but there appears to be no obvious link for this. <br />
<br />
Various Mac options you can find here<br />
<br />
[http://www.linuxfoundation.org/collaborate/workgroups/openprinting/macosximagewriter Link to image writer pages for the mac] <br />
<br />
I make no pretentions to know how to do this onna Mac I hope we can find a Mac punter to come and expand on the Mac options maybe even write its own dedicated wiki page for the Mac noob.<br />
<br />
== Linux dd ==<br />
I am not going to pretend that the linux command line and the dd method is the easiest environment for a noob.<br />
<br />
The following link to [http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Dd_%28Unix%29 dd] is the wikipedia page for dd this is a comprhensive page that has the answers but I would suggest that you save this for the time when your RPi is running and you can play with it there.<br />
<br />
== Ubuntu ImageWriter ==<br />
The Ubuntu ImageWriter is as instinctive as it gets if you are working from a Linux Desktop I need to confifm other Distro's (Distributions = Flavours of Linux)<br />
<br />
One thing to note with ImageWriter is that you cannot select the target till you have selected an image to write.<br />
<br />
== Win32DiskImage ==<br />
This is the Windows tool used to write your .img file to your SD card this like the ubuntu tool is an instinctive in its use. <br />
<br />
Unlike the Ubuntu tool you can select the SD card before you select your .img file some people have had issues with SD card readers particularly in built ones it has to be worth noting that good results have been achieved with the cheapest of card writers (for me poundland). <br />
<br />
One advantage of the Win32DiskImage is that it can be easily used to read as well as write a disk image. <br />
<br />
As a noob you may wonder what is the purpose of this? <br />
<br />
Once you have installed your RPi image and done your customisation you can then use Win32DiskImage [Read] button to create your own image that you can use as a backup. But note you do need to give it a new name you do not want to overwrite your master image. (If you do there is nothing to stop you re-downloading if you do. <br />
<br />
As a noob you can ignore the MD5 Hash option. <br />
<br />
I am not suggesing you should ignore this forever but while you consider yourself still to be a noob just put it on the back burner. <br />
<br />
Do not expect it to be a quick process and if you choose to backup your SD card after using something like the rsapi-config script and the the EXPAND-ROOTFS to use all of your SD card the image will be tailored to the size of card you have pulled it from. <br />
<br />
If you want it to fit in a smaller card you will need to do some image reduction and to be fair thats not really a noob subject enough said it may be somthing for futher study once you gain confidence. <br />
<br />
dd can also be used for backup but as I say dd is not for the faint hearted. <br />
<br />
The .img file selection box has a browse button selecting your file may seem counterintutive for the noob because the actual select button says save its the way it is like a lot of Microsoft stuff. (Just think of the use of the start button to shut down in XP). <br />
<br />
Live with it and click save then to write your SD card click write at this point you will be presented with a dialoge that you aregoing to overwrite everything on the card this is just a check to make sure you understand you are going to wipe your SD card. Then its a wait. Even for the smaller SD card images it will take a while one consideration is the job can be minimised to continue as a background operation. <br />
<br />
When the program cfinishes you will get a popup Complete window with the message "Write sucessful." <br />
<br />
Before you pull the SD card or the writer you should use your "safely remove hardware" option (This will probably not harm your SD card if you don't but it is considered good practice and if you dont and your SD get's corrupted you are only going to need to do it again. <br />
<br />
There has been some comment about using up SD card write cycles but if you go and look at the wiki page for SD cards you will see that the usual number of write cycles for an SD card is about 100,000 even by a conservative estimate that is a fair life.<br />
<br />
== SD image size concerns ==<br />
Having completed an install of an image on your SD card of choice at any point you can insert the card in any reader now if you view the card from Linux you can see the Raspberry partition but from Windows you can only see 12 files for both of the Wheezy installs. <br />
<br />
A lot of noob users are concerned upon loading their image file to a larger card say 32Gig then looking at the image with windows only seeing a 58 meg partition do not worry there is a larger second part that is just not visible from Windows and once installed into a RaspberryPi this will come into force and even looking at the SD card with Linux it will look like it is not using all of the card. <br />
<br />
Upon starting Wheezy with a Coposite or HDMI screen the script raspi-config will run automaticaly <br />
<br />
If you choose there is the option of doing a Blind Login using Putty or another ssh login information here [[RPi_A_Method_for_ssh_blind_login]] if you choose this option you have to run raspi-config manually.<br />
<br />
<br />
== SD Card Lock a heads up ==<br />
The lock the little tab on one side of the SD card is not sensed or used by the RaspberryPi so it can write to the card even if the lock is on so let's follow this scenario <br />
<br />
# You image your card sucessfully<br />
# You accidentaly lock the card<br />
# You boot from the card and realise you want to make changes to the config.txt (next section)<br />
# You put your card into your PC, Mac, whatever reader<br />
# You can't change anything you can not re-image you can't format but you can still change stuff when it's in your RPi<br />
<br />
All because you accidentaly moved that little slide switch on the side of your SD Card.....<br />
<br />
<br />
== Broken SD Card holder ==<br />
A couple of people have reported broken SD Card holders out of the box/packet. <br />
<br />
This is a fit for purpose return but if you have had your RPi a few weeks you may have a problem registering for a return. <br />
<br />
Replacement holders can be bought online but there is an alternative if you are soldering iron confident. <br />
<br />
Poundland in the UK has card readers for a (you guessed it) a pound some of these come in clear cases so it's fairly easy to see if the holder is intact and is not part of the case. <br />
<br />
I appreciate this may not be viable outside the UK. <br />
<br />
Thanks to grahamed in the forum for this one. <br />
<br />
Another option may be to glue in a micro SD adaptor and go to micro SD Cards.<br />
<br />
== config.txt ==<br />
The only file of issue is the config.txt from Windows you need to open this with Wordpad (not notepad) this is the setup editble file and there is now a fully commented version available here [https://raw.github.com/Evilpaul/RPi-config/master/config.txt commented config.txt] <br />
<br />
There are a lot of options in the config.txt file and activation usually consists of removing the # (hash) from the beginning of a line the promote the line from being a comment to being active. <br />
<br />
If you have been reading the forum and your told to edit this file as an option this is the way. Once you have edited remember to save and to retain the name config.txt and if you end up lost by what changes you have made and want to revert to the original just re-image your SD card. <br />
<br />
This is the configuration file that is accessed at start up for most installs you will not need to change this and if you are in any doubt it will be worth reading the fully commented version linked earlier.<br />
<br />
== Cable connections ==<br />
The following sections cover some of the options for connecting your RaspberryPi<br />
<br />
== Link to Verified Hardware Page ==<br />
<br />
[[RPi VerifiedPeripherals]]<br />
<br />
== Power to the RPi ==<br />
A lot of noob problems can be linked back to power supply of which you have a vast number of options. <br />
<br />
The primary and probably the easiest is to use a phone charger with a micro SD plug. <br />
<br />
Second choice would be using a cable with a USB Male "A" type on one end and a Micro USB on the other and there are a number of ways of using this cable. <br />
<br />
The first option I tried was using a USB from my PC on the USB "A" end and the Miro USB into the RaspberryPi. There have been issues with this as a connection from a laptop but a USB 3 port on a PC is considered more than adequate. And my USB 2 worked ok. <br />
<br />
Third choice is a plug that has a USB socket in place of the cable these appear to work well and there are a lot of mobile phones that come with these as standard. <br />
<br />
Fourth and probably best option is a Powered USB Hub and there is a rather nice circular option in that the Hub can power your RaspberryPi but then your RaspberryPi USB port can be used to distribute your usb options by connecting your hub with a USB "A"-"B" cable. <br />
<br />
I am now using this method with a Belkin 7 port USB Hub model F5U010 this is not the only hub option it just happens to be the one that works for me. <br />
<br />
There have been a few questions in the forum by noobs getting a colour rainbow flash (the initalising graphics chip) and then sometimes some text at which point the RaspberryPi appears to shut down with a black screen and then appears to start again. <br />
<br />
This is almost certainly a power issue but the cause may not be the power supply there are a number of keyboards particularly those with LED's or integral USB hubs which try to draw too much power from the USB port. <br />
<br />
There is an argument for having the cheapest and simplest Keyboard and Mouse for a first time start.<br />
<br />
== Ethernet ==<br />
There are a lot of calls for help with wi-fi networking at this time there are some USB wi-fi solutions a lot of these users with wireless routers if they go back to the box (assuming they still have it will probably find an ethernet 10baseT RJ45 cable that came with their router. <br />
<br />
Until the wireless solutions are in place your best startup will be by using a network cable. <br />
<br />
Most (note not all) Netgear routers/hubs the DHCP embedded in the router/hub software should issue IP addresses that follow this pattern.<br />
<br />
192.168.0.x If this is the case the hub probably uses 1 in place of the x as it's own address. Making the hub address 192.168.0.1<br />
<br />
The primary computer will probably use 2 giving it the address of 192.168.0.2 and the then the later ones will follow in sequence.<br />
<br />
Other brand routers follow their own pattern for example I happen to know that a "Zoom X6 ADSL Router" uses an address of 10.0.0.2 so a Warning here if the method using 192.168.0.x does not work and your router/hub is not Virginmedia (re-badged netgear) or Netgear or some other re-badged Netgear then its likely that your router IP addresses lie in some other range.<br />
<br />
You may have to resort to reading the manual (shock horror) for your router/hub. <br />
<br />
Its worth noting that you can test your RaspberryPi with just the network cable and a power connection then using an ssh remote login theres a whole section on this [[RPi_A_Method_for_ssh_blind_login | Blind Login Here]]. <br />
<br />
This can eliminate a cycling restart caused by a flaky keyboard.<br />
<br />
== USB 1 & 2 ==<br />
Your RaspberryPi has two USB ports without a USB hub you are limited to two so with a Mouse and Keyboard of course if you are choosing to run as command line and forgoing the gui screen startx then not having a mouse. <br />
<br />
If you are set on learning the nuts and bolts of Linux command line is a good way to start. <br />
<br />
If you are wanting to explore the options of the RaspberryPi Gui with minimal intrusion then the easiest option is a mouse and keyboard and ethernet and explore the vagaries of wi-fi attaching pen-drives or even printers you really do need to be exploring options using powered USB hubs.<br />
<br />
== Video ==<br />
There are a lot of questions about using VGA Monitors and you can using a converter but they are not cheap this is not simply a case of a cable VGA is Analogue and HDMI is Digital its like AM and FM radio. <br />
<br />
It is by far a cheaper option of picking up an old (not too old) TV with a Scart or an RCA AV input socket. For a Scart you will need a conversion plug to change the RCA Composite to Scart although these are relativly cheap and if the TV has an AV (normally yellow) Phono input it will be even cheaper. <br />
<br />
HDMI to DVI Is an option and valid if you have a DVI monitor allready but the best fix is try and source a TV with HDMI.<br />
<br />
==HDMI ==<br />
Given the HDMI solution cables can be bought at the budget end for as little as 1GBP yes a quid at Poundland. I have two of these and both are up to the task. <br />
<br />
The Default font with the Wheezy install is small and this is not an issue if you kump to startx and the gui screen but if you are planning to engage with the command line I would recomend you follow this [[RPi_Command_line_font_size | Link]] this will tell you about a quick way of changing the Default FontFace and FontSize. <br />
<br />
This is not the only way but it is quick and easy to understand. Allways a consideration for the noob user. <br />
<br />
There can arise a situation where you plug in an HDMI monitor and get a no signal response on your TV. <br />
<br />
This can quite often be because the HDMI line was not active at start up you need your TV on and the HDMI live otherwise it defaults to Composite but there is a fix in the config.txt mentioned earlier remove the # (hash) from the start of the <br />
<br />
#hdmi_force_hotplug=1<br />
<br />
line this wil make your RPi believe it has found the active signal on the HDMI socket.<br />
<br />
== Composite ==<br />
This is the yellow phono plug oposite the HDMI a lot of TV's these days have a yellow phono socket often labled AV you can also get whats affectionaly called an RCA Scart In (Maplin code L83BA) There are cheaper suppliers(saw one in poundland last weekend). This converts a Scart socket to three phonos one is Composite Video and the other two are left and right audio. <br />
<br />
The default setting for the composite output uses the american standard from the three widley available globaly these are <br />
<br />
PAL = '''P'''hase '''A'''lternating '''L'''ine (British)<br />
<br />
SECAM = '''Sé'''quentiel '''c'''ouleur '''à m'''émoire (French)<br />
<br />
NTSC = '''N'''ational '''T'''elevision '''S'''ystem '''C'''ommittee (American)<br />
<br />
[http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/File:PAL-NTSC-SECAM.svg Map of who uses which]<br />
<br />
Setting this up is one of the lines in the config.txt file mentioned earlier.<br />
<br />
For this the line you need to change is this<br />
<br />
#sdtv_mode=0<br />
<br />
Remove the # (hash)<br />
<br />
and choose the number from this list<br />
<br />
0 Normal NTSC (Default)<br />
1 Japanese version of NTSC - no pedestal<br />
2 Normal PAL<br />
3 Brazilian version of PAL - 525/60 rather than 625/50, different subcarrier<br />
<br />
Coversation Capture from the forum<br />
<br />
Melondrop<br />
Running raspbian and using composite out to an old tv.<br />
The problem im having is the bottom text of menus (usually with the ok and close buttons on them) is getting cut off. <br />
I dont mean cut off the bottom of the screen I mean cut off like all menus are too big and get cut off behind the taskbar. <br />
I went through dpi settings and every other setting i could find but couldnt find a way to shrink any menus<br />
<br />
bredman<br />
Most applications assume a minimum screen size, normally 640x480 or maybe larger. This causes a problem with composite monitors with a lower resolution.<br />
If the window or menu is too large to fit on screen, press the Alt key while holding down the left mouse button and moving the mouse. <br />
This will move the window on the screen. Not a perfect solution, but better than nothing.<br />
<br />
dom<br />
The other option is to increase the resolution in X. You can do this with (in config.txt)<br />
framebuffer_width=800<br />
framebuffer_height=600<br />
<br />
Detail on dom's option here [[RPi config.txt]]<br />
<br />
== Sound ==<br />
There are a few options for sound and as a noob exploring command line you are probably a fair way from using it in anger but if you are going down the startx gui screen then you are probably going to want to explore sound. <br />
<br />
The sound port of the RaspberryPi is the small jack socket next to the yellow composite phono If you are going the composite Scart/AV route then a stereo jack to twin phono lead see Maplins N12GW or N04JZ will work or even use an L42AU then a couple of stadard male phono leads. These aree not the only Maplin numbers theres lots of variations even gold plated.<br />
<br />
Getting sound from an HDMI requires you piggy back the sound on the HDMI signal. <br />
<br />
I know this works with a PC using HDMI and I can't see why it will not work for the RaspberryPi but none of the config.txt settings obviously support this and I have been aware of a lot of forum chatter on this subject. <br />
<br />
For the time being as a noob plug some PC external speakers into the socket next to composite it's far easier.<br />
<br />
== The SD Card slot ==<br />
There is a massive list of SD cards compatable with the RaspberryPi<br />
<br />
If you have an SD Card capacity bigger than 2gig prefered minimum 4gig and it's spare and you don't mind blanking it then you can image it with Wheezy and if it does not work so be it. <br />
<br />
I have several and 3 are 4gig SDHC and every card I have tried to date has worked.<br />
<br />
== The Wheezy Login and The tidy shutdown ==<br />
We have to assume that early on in the playground that is a functioning RaspberryPi you will want to start and shut down and just like your PC or Mac it is best that this is done in an orderly fasion<br />
<br />
We are assuming you are using Wheezy <br />
Login = pi<br />
password = raspberry<br />
<br />
Till you change it, probably in raspi-config<br />
<br />
To do the shutdown you need to be logged in and at the command line enter the following<br />
<br />
sudo halt<br />
<br />
If you are using a screen it will go off but if you are using a blind login or have failed to get a screen running and are running on guess work (prtending you can see what you are typing. A sucessfull halt (shutdown) will leave you with only the red power (PWR) led lit. <br />
<br />
At this point feel free to unplug.<br />
<br />
== Hey look LED's ==<br />
On your RaspberryPi in the corner you have five surface mount LED's labled as follows<br />
<br />
#Green OK<br />
#Red PWR<br />
#Green FDX<br />
#Green LNK<br />
#Yellow 10M<br />
<br />
With the fifth one nearest the corner.<br />
<br />
== Backup your work ==<br />
Look at the section about the Win32DiskImage<br />
<br />
<br />
[[Category:RaspberryPi]]</div>Bgirardothttps://elinux.org/index.php?title=R-Pi_Troubleshooting&diff=195758R-Pi Troubleshooting2012-11-27T17:52:35Z<p>Bgirardot: Typo correction</p>
<hr />
<div>[[Category:RaspberryPi]]<br />
<br />
Back to the [[R-Pi Hub|Hub]].<br />
<br />
This page lists the most common problems and suggests some solutions.<br />
<br />
See [[RPi_Bugs]] for problems that are bugs.<br />
<br />
==Power / Start-up==<br />
A good power supply that will supply 5V is vital. There is more information about See [[#Troubleshooting_power_problems]].<br />
<br />
Note that the PI has no BIOS, so nothing will be displayed on screen unless the PI successfully boots!<br />
<br />
===Red power LED does not light, nothing on display===<br />
The power is not properly connected.<br />
<br />
===Red power LED is blinking===<br />
The red power LED should never blink, because it is hard-wired to the 3.3V power supply rail. If it is blinking, as one user has reported<ref>http://www.raspberrypi.org/phpBB3/viewtopic.php?f=28&t=7528</ref> it means the 5V power supply is dropping out. Use a different power supply.<br />
<br />
===Red power LED is on, green LED does not flash, nothing on display===<br />
''note; For technical reasons the green LED might light up very faintly, this is normal, but it doesn't mean it "burns". When flashing/blinking the green LED should light up as bright as the power LED.''<br />
*The Raspberry Pi cannot find a valid image on the SD card. Check card is inserted correctly. Check that you have correctly written a Raspberry Pi image to the card. Did you have admin rights when you used the SD-card writer software? Without it the software might go through the motions without actually doing anything! To check if the writing process did actually happen Insert the SD card into a Windows machine and you should see bootcode.bin, fixup.dat and start.elf amongst others. See also, [[RPi_VerifiedPeripherals#SD_cards|Known SD Cards]]. It is also possible that the image you are writing to the card is corrupt, as downloads do occasionally end up corrupted or truncated. You can check with the checksum utility if your download is correct.<br />
<br />
*Try with no cables connected except the USB power lead, and SD card inserted. You should see flashing of the OK light for ~20 seconds. If that helps, plug in cables one at a time to identify which is interfering with boot.<br />
<br />
*Confirm the USB cable is properly seated in the power slot. The red power LED does not necessarily mean it is fully connected.<br />
<br />
*The voltage is too low (below 5 V), try a different power supply and/or cable. The R-Pi needs a supply rated for 700 mA or more. Some supplies labeled as such cannot actually provide their rated current while maintaining 5V. See also, [[#Troubleshooting_power_problems]].<br />
<br />
*There may be a bug in the distributed version of bootcode.bin which causes problems with some sdcards. Try this version: https://github.com/raspberrypi/firmware/blob/234c19de7cbaaf4997671d61df20a05759066295/boot/bootcode.bin. Please let us know if it "fixes" your non-working SD card (or, more importantly, if it doesn't). This can also manifest itself as intermittent booting, or only booting when cold.<br />
<br />
*''(unlikely)'' hardware abuse, for example by connecting a 7 V supply to a 3v3 GPIO output pin<ref>http://www.raspberrypi.org/phpBB3/viewtopic.php?f=6&t=5096&p=76503#p76503</ref> or powering up the board after a solder splash shorts some traces<ref>http://www.raspberrypi.org/phpBB3/viewtopic.php?f=6&t=5096&p=76654#p76654</ref>.<br />
<br />
*Look at the SD card holder on the Raspberry Pi carefully. At first glance it may look fine but the contacts must be springy and they must protrude at least 2mm as measured from the lower edge of the holder to the top of the contact bulge. This happens due to the solder process and the type of holder used. Some of the solder residue falls into the contact cavity restricting the springiness and the height that the contact protrudes. You can fix this yourself but remember you can void your warranty. The contacts are delicate so be carefull. Insert a needle pin under the contact bulge and pull lightly up until the one end of the contact unclips. Clean the cavity where the contact unclipped from of any solder or other residue by blowing into the cavity. Clip the contact back into the cavity by lightly pushing it into the cavity. Do this for all the contacts. Look at these photos. [[Media:SDcardHolder.JPG]], [[Media:UnclipContact.JPG]], [[Media:UnclippedContact.JPG]]<br />
<br />
*If for whatever reason the main polyfuse F3 has been overheated previously it may happen that it hasn't completely recovered, in which case, if you turn the PI on, a considerable amount of energy from the power supply is lost in the fuse and doesn't reach the PI. Try if the polyfuse seems hot. For this problem too read [[#Troubleshooting_power_problems]].<br />
<br />
===Green LED blinks in a specific pattern===<br />
<br />
With recent firmware, according to [http://www.raspberrypi.org/phpBB3/viewtopic.php?f=28&t=8725#p103338 this forum post] the green light will blink in a specific pattern to indicate some types of errors:<br />
<br />
* 3 flashes: <tt>loader.bin</tt> not found<br />
* 4 flashes: <tt>loader.bin</tt> not launched<br />
* 5 flashes: <tt>start.elf</tt> not found<br />
* 6 flashes: <tt>start.elf</tt> not launched<br />
* 7 flashes: <tt>kernel.img</tt> not found<br />
<br />
Firmware since 20th October 2012 no longer requires loader.bin, and the flashes mean:<br />
<br />
* 3 flashes: <tt>start.elf</tt> not found<br />
* 4 flashes: <tt>start.elf</tt> not launched<br />
* 7 flashes: <tt>kernel.img</tt> not found<br />
<br />
If start.elf won't launch it may be corrupt.<br />
<br />
===Coloured splash screen===<br />
[[File:Debug-screen.jpg]]<br />
<br />
With recent firmware, a coloured splash screen is displayed after firmware (start.elf) is loaded. This should be replaced by linux console a second later.<br />
However if the coloured screen remains, it suggests the kernel.img file is failing to boot. Try replacing it with a known good one.<br />
<br />
Immediately after displaying the splash screen, the PI starts consuming a little more current, if the PI resets at that moment its an indication that your PSU isn't able to deliver the full current your PI requires, but dips its output voltage below a minimum when loaded with the full current the PI needs.<br />
<br />
===Kernel Panic on boot ===<br />
Text appears on screen, but then hangs with debug messages. This can be caused by USB devices such as keyboards. <br />
Try again with nothing in the USB.<br />
<br />
===Raspberry Pi shuts down (or restarts) soon after booting up===<br />
This is caused by a power supply producing too low a voltage. See [[#Troubleshooting_power_problems]].<br />
<br />
===Pi boots sometimes but not always===<br />
With a known good power supply and known good SD card, the R-Pi boots occasionally, but other times shows only a tiny green flicker from the "OK" LED and it fails to start, even with no USB devices and no Ethernet. This has been reported several times<ref>http://www.raspberrypi.org/forum/troubleshooting/will-not-boot-consistently-any-suggestions-before-i-send-my-pi-back</ref><br />
<ref>http://www.raspberrypi.org/forum/troubleshooting/booted-once-wont-work-again</ref><br />
<ref>http://www.raspberrypi.org/forum/troubleshooting/possible-fault-pi-boots-sometimes-but-not-always</ref> and remains an open issue. Low voltage or an improper SD card can cause it. Some SD cards will work until they warm up slightly, and then fail<ref>http://www.raspberrypi.org/phpBB3/viewtopic.php?f=6&t=5900&p=79008#p79008</ref>. When exposed to 21 C room temperature the warmest part of an uncased working R-Pi should be 41 C<ref>http://www.raspberrypi.org/phpBB3/viewtopic.php?f=6&t=5900&p=78973#p78973</ref>. The wiki has a [[RPi_VerifiedPeripherals#SD_cards | list of working SD cards]]. Buy from a reliable vendor as it has been [http://www.petapixel.com/2011/05/20/one-third-of-the-sandisk-memory-cards-on-earth-are-counterfeit/ claimed] that 1/3 of all "Sandisk" labelled memory cards are counterfeit.<br />
*It could be that the SD memory card is not making proper contact with the Raspberry Pi. Look at the SD card holder on the Raspberry Pi carefully. At first glance it may look fine but the contacts must be springy and they must protrude at least 2mm as measured fron the lower edge of the holder to the top of the contact bulge. This happens due to the solder process and the type of holder used. Some of the solder residue falls into the contact cavity restricting the springiness and the height that the contact protrudes. You can fix this yourself but remember you can void your warranty. The contacts are delicate so be carefull. Insert a needle pin under the contact bulge and pull lightly up until the one end of the contact unclips. Clean the cavity where the contact unclipped from of any solder or other residue by blowing into the cavity. Clip the contact back into the cavity by lightly pushing it into the cavity. Do this for all the contacts. Look at these photos. [[Media:SDcardHolder.JPG]], [[Media:UnclipContact.JPG]], [[Media:UnclippedContact.JPG]]<br />
<br />
==Keyboard / Mouse / Input Devices==<br />
<br />
===R-Pi does not respond to key presses / Keyboard randomly repeats key presses===<br />
''note:during entering the password most linux distro's wont show that you typed in anything (not even "*" characters) this is normal behaviour, try the keyboard while entering the user name!''<br />
<br />
This is most often caused by inadequate power. Use a good power supply and a good power cable. Some cheap cables that work with a cell phone, cannot fully power the R-Pi. Some USB devices require a lot of power: most will have a label showing the voltage and mA requirements. They should be 5v 100mA each max, any more than this they must be used with a powered USB hub. Try unplugging every USB device except the keyboard (you should also note that some keyboards have built in hubs and can try to draw 150mA (Pi can only handle 100mA per USB slot without a hub)).<br />
Also, use the latest software. Forum user MrEngman [http://www.raspberrypi.org/forum/absolute-beginners/using-a-powered-usb-port-to-power-a-rpi#p76485 reported] some keyboard repeats and wireless hangs until [http://www.raspberrypi.org/downloads upgrading] to the debian6-19-04-2012 kernel, which he reports stable with no problems even with a low [[R-Pi_Troubleshooting#Troubleshooting_power_problems | TP1-TP2 voltage]] of 4.65 - 4.68 volts.<br />
<br />
Some users have reported that their keyboards work fine on Arch linux, but on Debian distro's, their keyboards become erratic (repeats and/or skips key presses). One suggested remedy to this, which has some positive feedback, is to adjust the USB bus speed. To do this, you need to edit the cmdline.txt file, and add "dwc_otg.speed=1" (without quotes) to the end of the file (found in the /boot directory).<br />
<br />
Worst case scenario, some (advanced) keyboards, such as the Roccat Arvo, have kernel modules that need activating. If you have access to another keyboard temporarily, you will need to modprobe the relevent driver. Or if this is not possible, you can rebuild the kernel (instructions available on the wiki page) with the modules installed. (to find the drivers for keyboards etc, you need to find "Device Drivers -> hid Devices".)<br />
<br />
===Keyboard / Mouse interferes with USB WiFi device===<br />
Connecting a keyboard and/or mouse while a USB WiFi device is connected, may cause one or both devices to malfunction. On April 30 2012, there was a bugfix<ref>https://github.com/raspberrypi/linux/commit/e09244e60881148431ecd016ccc42f1fa0678556</ref> relating to USB sharing between high-speed (eg. WiFi) and full/low-speed devices (eg. keyboard/mouse). User spennig<ref>http://www.raspberrypi.org/forum/troubleshooting/usb-power-hub-wifi/page-4#p74609</ref><ref>http://www.raspberrypi.org/forum/troubleshooting/success-with-kb-mouse-wifi?value=3761&type=8&include=1&search=1</ref> reports this patch did not fix the Mouse/WiFi conflict. On 2012-05-12, user spennig was pleased to confirm that wifi was working with a USB keyboard and mouse, as long as the Raspberry Pi had a good PSU and a powered hub. Even so, some experimentation was needed, e.g. USB WiFi connected to the device, and the keyboard and mouse connected to the powered hub. Some experimentation may be necessary to find a working combination; however a good power supply is essential.<br />
<br />
===Wireless Keyboard trouble===<br />
Some wireless keyboards, for example the Microsoft Wireless Keyboard 800 are reported to fail<ref>http://www.raspberrypi.org/forum/troubleshooting/display-and-keyboard-issues-on-a-real-pi#p74816</ref> even though the current drawn by the wireless adaptor is within the R-Pi USB spec limit of 100 mA. This may be a software driver problem.<br />
<br />
===Re-mapping the keyboard with Debian Squeeze===<br />
If different letters appear on-screen from that which you typed, you need to reconfigure you keyboard settings. In Debian, from a command line type:<br />
sudo dpkg-reconfigure keyboard-configuration<br />
Follow the prompts. Then restart your RasPi.<br />'''Or:'''<br /> From the command line type:<br />
sudo nano /etc/default/keyboard<br />
Then find where it says <blockquote>XKBLAYOUT=”gb”</blockquote>and change the gb to the two letter code for your country. [http://www.raspberrypi.org/phpBB3/viewtopic.php?p=78325#p78325]<br />
<br />
===Slow keyboard mapping=== <br />
If you have remapped your keyboard and get a very long delay during the keyboard mapping at startup, type the following once on the command line after you have logged in:<br />
sudo setupcon<br />
<br />
===No USB device works, with known good PS, SD card, KB=== <br />
There has been more than one report<ref>http://www.raspberrypi.org/phpBB3/viewtopic.php?f=28&t=7533</ref><ref>http://www.raspberrypi.org/phpBB3/viewtopic.php?t=5766#p77576</ref><ref>http://www.raspberrypi.org/phpBB3/viewtopic.php?t=5766#p80995</ref> of a R-Pi booting but not getting USB input, using a known-good power supply, SD card, and keyboard. The more common cause for no USB devices working is [[#Troubleshooting_power_problems|low power supply voltage]] from bad PSU, cable, or USB hub, but in this case the problem was no clock signal present at the LAN9512 USB/Ethernet chip "IC3", and the solution was to reflow the solder on the 25 MHz crystal "X1" on the bottom side of the board.<br />
Or return the board for a replacement, but before making this conclusion, confirm known good peripherals. A significant number of <br />
[[RPi_VerifiedPeripherals#USB_Keyboards| USB keyboards]] are not compatible with R-Pi. As of June 1 2012, Eben reported<ref>http://www.raspberrypi.org/phpBB3/viewtopic.php?f=28&t=6822&p=89589&hilit=eben#p89513</ref> that only about 1 in 1000 shipped R-Pi boards have been found to have a hardware fault of any kind.<br />
<br />
== Updating firmware ==<br />
=== Check your firmware version ===<br />
Using the latest firmware version may help various problems with SD card and display compatibility. Check the kernel version with:<br />
uname -a<br />
Linux RPi 3.1.19 #1 PREEMPT Fri Jun 1 14:16:38 CEST 2012 armv6l GNU/Linux<br />
<br />
And the GPU firmware with:<br />
/opt/vc/bin/vcgencmd version<br />
May 31 2012 13:35:03<br />
Copyright (c) 2012 Broadcom<br />
version 317494 (release)<br />
<br />
=== Get the latest firmware version ===<br />
The GPU firmware and kernel can be updated with [https://github.com/Hexxeh/rpi-update Hexxeh's rpi-update tool].<br />
<br />
However this requires the Pi to be successfully booted. With sdcard problems, you may not get that far, so can try a manual udpate.<br />
If you have a Linux machine, rpi-update can be run on that in an offline mode, and will update your sdcard from the Linux machine.<br />
<br />
Otherwise, on a Windows computer, you will see the "/boot" partition appear as the contents of SD card. <br />
You can download the latest GPU firmware version [https://github.com/raspberrypi/firmware/blob/master/boot/start.elf here].<br />
Click on '''view raw''', then save it, and put the new start.elf file on the sdcard replacing the existing one. Similarly, the latest kernel is [https://github.com/raspberrypi/firmware/tree/master/boot/kernel.img here].<br />
After updating these files you should be able to boot. You still need to run rpi-update to update the kernel modules (in /lib/modules) and the GPU libraries (in /opt/vc).<br />
<br />
=== Choosing the right ARM/GPU memory split ===<br />
There is a choice of how the 256M/512M of RAM is divided between the ARM and GPU:<br />
gpu_mem=16 : 16M GPU, 240M/496M ARM split : Maximum ARM memory. Good for ARM desktop use. No accelerated video or 3D possible.<br />
gpu_mem=64 : 64M GPU, 192M/448M ARM split : Reasonable ARM memory. Simple video (omxplayer) or 3D (quake) is possible. This is the default.<br />
gpu_mem=128 : 128M GPU, 128M/384M ARM split : Use this for heavy 3D work, or 3D plus video. Needed for XBMC.<br />
<br />
To switch, edit the gpu_mem= setting in your config.txt and reboot.<br />
<br />
Note: other amounts are also possible, but setting gpu_mem=32 is usually the wrong choice. gpu_mem=16 is almost always a better choice.<br />
<br />
Also note that before the release of the 51MB PI a different method was used based on splitting the 256MB RAM in a part for the CPU and GPU. As this noting system was causing trouble if the amount of RAM was not always the same. the above new method was adapted.<br />
<br />
Make sure your editor doesn't change the first letter of the line into an uppercase letter, as some editors do. The entry is case sensitive.<br />
<br />
== SD cards ==<br />
<br />
* If you have problems, check you have latest firmware version (described above)<br />
* Some SD cards do not work on the R-Pi, so check the [[RPi_VerifiedPeripherals#SD_cards|list of known SD cards]].<br />
* If you are having problems setting up your SD card you might want to start by erasing it completely - especially if it has been used elsewhere and still contains data / partitions.<br />
** Windows and Mac users can download a formatting tool from the SD Association: https://www.sdcard.org/downloads/formatter_3/<br />
* Reformatting cards is also easy to do in a digital camera.<br />
* After writing the image to the SD card, verify that you can see the boot partition when you insert the SD card into your computer. The partition should contain a number of files, including ''start.elf'' and ''kernel.img''. If you do not see these files on the SD card, you have made an error writing the image file.<br />
* If you are manually preparing your SD card on Linux or Mac OS using the ''dd'' command, this operation will completely erase any existing data and partitions. Make sure you write to the whole card (e.g. <tt>/dev/sdd</tt>) and not to an existing partition (e.g. <tt>/dev/sdd1</tt>).<br />
* If you have an sdcard that doesn't work with latest firmware, head over [http://www.raspberrypi.org/phpBB3/viewtopic.php?f=63&t=6093 here].<br />
* If you put the SD card into your PC in an attempt to write the R-Pi operating system onto it, and the PC tells you the card is write-protected, even with the write-protect tab in the correct, forward position, then you may have a faulty SD-card rewriter. There's a common fault with many SD-card rewriters - The write-protect tab is detected by a very thin, narrow metal strip, that is part of a switch. When the card is inserted, the write-protect tab is supposed to push the strip and make/break the contact, as needed. Unfortunately, these strips have a habit of getting stuck, because they are mounted in a thin plastic channel, and only need to be deformed slightly sideways to get jammed.<br />
Luckily, if you have this problem, most built-in card readers are easy to pull apart and repair; some users have even reported succesfully unjamming the switch with a blast of compressed air from a can into the SD-card slot without having to dismantle anything.<br />
You may also be able to temporarily get round the problem by putting the write-protect tab in a half-way position - this pushes on a different part of the strip and may break the contact - it's worth trying a few, slightly different positions. You could also use a USB-SD card adaptor, which are cheap to buy.<br />
<br />
==Networking==<br />
<br />
===Ethernet connection is lost when a USB device is plugged in===<br />
This is often caused by inadequate power. Use a good power supply and a good power cable. Some cheap cables that work with a cell phone, cannot fully power the R-Pi. Some USB devices require a lot of power (>100 mA), so they must be used with a powered USB hub. Some cheap USB hubs suck power from the Raspberry Pi even if a USB power supply is connected. (More often than not, however, the reverse is true with cheap hubs—the Pi draws just enough power backwards from the powered hub to unsuccessfully attempt booting.)<br />
<br />
There is an ongoing issue with the Ethernet connection being lost when low-speed devices, such as mice or keyboards are connected via a powered USB hub. The simplest way to solve this is to connect your mouse and keyboard directly into the 2 USB ports on the R-Pi (assuming they draw less than 100 mA apiece).<br />
<br />
===Ethernet connects at 10M instead of 100M===<br />
The LED in the corner of the board labelled "10M" is mislabeled. When that LED is on, the R-Pi is actually connected at 100 Mbps. You can confirm the true transfer rate using a network benchmark such as iperf. You can also read the current network speed with<br />
cat /sys/class/net/eth0/speed<br />
<br />
===Cannot ssh in to Pi===<br />
<br />
In the Debian image, ssh is disabled by default. Boot commands are taken from /boot/boot.rc if that file present. There is an example file named '''boot_enable_ssh.rc''' that enables ssh. So:<br />
<br />
sudo mv /boot/boot_enable_ssh.rc /boot/boot.rc<br />
<br />
and reboot should enable ssh. (password as below)<br />
<br />
===Network/USB chip gets too hot to touch===<br />
<br />
This is normal. In open air at 24 C, the LAN9512 Ethernet/USB chip reaches about 52 C after some time. This is too hot to touch for more than a few seconds, but it is not unusually hot for the chip.<br />
<br />
The <br />
[http://www.smsc.com/media/Downloads_Public/Data_Sheets/9512.pdf LAN9512 data sheet] in Table 4.1 on p.40 says it comes in two versions, rated for operation at an ambient temperature in still air (Ta) of 70 C (commercial) or 85 C (industrial). It uses 763 mW at 3.3V with maximum traffic on 100baseT and both USB ports (Table 4.3.4, p. 42).<br />
<br />
There is a study of RasPi heat profiles by "Remy" at [http://www.geektopia.es/es/technology/2012/06/22/articulos/se-calienta-el-ordenador-raspberry-pi-estudio-de-sus-temperaturas-en-funcionamiento.html ¿Se calienta el ordenador Raspberry Pi? Estudio de sus temperaturas en funcionamiento] (''Is the Raspberry Pi computer getting hot? A study of its operational temperature.'') The Spanish article has numerous color temperature images of RasPi in various operational modes, with the highest LAN9512 case temperature measured as 64.5 C.<br />
<br />
===Networking no longer works when changing SD card between two Raspberry Pis===<br />
<br />
In some distributions, /etc/udev/rules.d/70-persistent-net.rules remembers which MAC address is associated with eth0, so each new device will be assigned as a different interface (eth1, eth2, etc.) due to the different MAC addresses. Editing /etc/udev/rules.d/70-persistent-net.rules to remove the invalid rules and rebooting may help fix the problem.<br />
<br />
===Crashes occur with high network load===<br />
<br />
The USB driver allocates memory from the kernel, and when traffic is very high (e.g. when using torrents/newsgroup downloads) this memory can be exhausted causing crashes/hangs. You should have a line like:<br />
<br />
vm.min_free_kbytes = 8192<br />
<br />
in /etc/sysctl.conf. Try increasing that number to 16384 (or higher). If that doesn't work, try adding to /boot/cmdline.txt<br />
<br />
smsc95xx.turbo_mode=N<br />
<br />
which will reduce network throughput, but has improved stability issues for some.<br />
<br />
===Network connection fails when a Graphical User Interface is being used===<br />
<br />
The network connection may fail when the command startx is used to enter a Graphical User Interface. This is caused by a bug in the USB driver related to certain types of USB mouse.<br />
<br />
As of 1 September 2012, this fault is fixed in the latest firmware. To load the latest firmware, see<br />
[http://elinux.org/R-Pi_Troubleshooting#Updating_firmware http://elinux.org/R-Pi_Troubleshooting#Updating_firmware]<br />
<br />
==Passwords==<br />
===I do not know the password to login===<br />
Please check the page [http://www.raspberrypi.org/downloads http://www.raspberrypi.org/downloads] for the correct username and password for each image.<br />
<br />
Here are the most common username/password combinations:<br />
*Debian after Feb 2012: pi/raspberry<br />
*Debian 17 Feb 2012: pi/suse<br />
*Arch: root/root<br />
*Bodhi: pi/bodhilinux<br />
<br />
===Some programs refuse to accept my password===<br />
While using Debian, some programs may ask for your password but refuse to accept a valid password.<br />
<br />
This is a fault in old Debian images previous to September 2012. If you are using an image with this fault, upgrade to a more modern image or enter the following command on the command line.<br />
gconftool-2 --type bool --set /apps/gksu/sudo-mode true<br />
Please enter this command carefully, the spaces are important. The command should be accepted without any response or errors.<br />
<br />
===I don't know the root password===<br />
<br />
There is no root password set by default on Debian. You are expected to do everything through sudo. You can set one with "sudo passwd root" - just make sure you know what you are doing with a root account.<br />
<br />
==Sound==<br />
===Sound does not work with an HDMI monitor===<br />
This is caused by some computer monitors which select DVI mode even if an HDMI cable is connected. This fix may be necessary even if other HDMI devices work perfectly on the same monitor (or TV)!<br />
<br />
Edit the configuration file - see the instructions at [[R-Pi_ConfigurationFile]].<br />
<br />
Add the following line to the configuration file:<br />
hdmi_drive=2<br />
<br />
This will force it to select HDMI mode.<br />
<br />
<br />
'''More reasons why sound does not work with an HDMI monitor'''<br />
<br />
With an HDMI connection it might be possible to hear:<br />
./hello_audio.bin 1<br />
but not:<br />
aplay /usr/share/sounds/alsa/Front_Center.wav<br />
<br />
Firstly, it seems that some HD TVs mute audible sound output when there is no digital input, and slowly fade the sound up and down at the start and end of digital input. This means that short duration sounds will not be heard. A work around is to play longer duration wav files.<br />
<br />
Secondly, it seems that some HD TVs mute audible sound output when there is only one channel of digital input. So, as the file Front_Center.wav is mono, it might not be heard. ALSA aplay uses the file information header to configure its digital output. And the aplay -c 2 option does not over-ride the settings aplay picks up from the file information header. So, if your HD TV doesn't accept just one channel of digital input, you cannot use aplay to hear a mono wav file. However, with the command speaker-test, the -c2 option does work, and sets 2 channels in the digital stream. So speaker-test can be used to hear the file Front_Center.wav in either the left or right speaker using the -s option 1 or 2. <br />
For example<br />
Speaker-test -c 2 -s 1 -t wav -W /usr/share/sounds/alsa -w Front_Center.wav<br />
should be heard on the left speaker. But note that the command speaker-test seems only to like mono wav files, and seems not to play stereo wav files.<br />
<br />
The command aplay plays 2 channel stereo wav files in stereo sound without problem (provided they last longer than the time it takes the TV to unmute and remute). A helpful example I found is the stereo file LRMonoPhase4.wav at the Kozco web site [http://www.kozco.com/tech/soundtests.html]<br />
<br />
===Sound does not work at all, or in some applications===<br />
In Debian Squeeze, sound is disabled by default because the ALSA sound driver is still "alpha" (not fully tested) on the R-Pi. To try out sound, from the command prompt ''before'' "startx", type<br />
<br />
sudo apt-get install alsa-utils<br />
sudo modprobe snd_bcm2835<br />
<br />
On Debian Wheezy, snd_bm2835 is enabled, by default, do that step is not necessary. Next try:<br />
<br />
sudo aplay /usr/share/sounds/alsa/Front_Center.wav<br />
<br />
By default output will be automatic (hdmi if hdmi supports audio, otherwise analogue). You can force it with:<br />
<br />
sudo amixer cset numid=3 <n><br />
<br />
where n is 0=auto, 1=headphones, 2=hdmi.<br />
<br />
With recent firmware, you can build hello_audio with:<br />
cd /opt/vc/src/hello_pi/<br />
./rebuild.sh<br />
cd hello_audio<br />
<br />
With older firmware<br />
cd /opt/vc/src/hello_pi/hello_audio<br />
make<br />
<br />
to test analogue output:<br />
./hello_audio.bin<br />
and:<br />
./hello_audio.bin 1<br />
to test HDMI.<br />
<br />
Also note that you may have to add your user to the 'audio' group to get permission to access the sound card.<br />
<br />
==Display==<br />
===Startx fails to start===<br />
If you just get errors instead of a desktop when typing<br />
startx<br />
you may be out of storage space on the SD card. By default there are only a few hundred MB free in the 2 GB main partition, which can quickly fill up if you download files. Make sure there is some space free (gparted can expand a partition, if the SD card is > 2GB). Also, installing some software may incorrectly create or modify a .Xauthority file in your home directory, causing startx to fail, according to [http://www.raspberrypi.org/forum/troubleshooting/startx-fails-worked-yesterday this thread]. Temporarily renaming, moving, or deleting that file may fix the problem.<br />
<br />
===Screen is the wrong color===<br />
Check and see if the DVI cable is screwed in properly. If that doesn't work then try [[#Interference_visible_on_a_HDMI_or_DVI_monitor|this]] section.<br />
<br />
===Video does not play or plays very slowly===<br />
The only hardware-accelerated video player is in the [http://www.raspberrypi.org/forum/general-discussion/openelec-meets-raspberry-pi-part-1-xbmc XBMC distribution] and its command line variant [[omxplayer]]. H264 is the only hardware-accelerated codec, for playback. No hardware encoding is supported. Additional codecs were not purchased as licensing fees would have increased the R-Pi's price.<br />
<br />
===Can only get 800x480 resolution in LXDE (Arch linux)===<br />
Known issue with distro package as of 17th April 2012 - there's some missing boot config information. Creating a suitable cmdline.txt fixes it - type the following at the Raspberry Pi command line:<br />
<br />
<pre><br />
sudo echo "dwc_otg.lpm_enable=0 console=ttyAMA0,115200 kgdboc=ttyAMA0,115200 root=/dev/mmcblk0p2 rootfstype=ext3 rootwait" >/boot/cmdline.txt<br />
</pre><br />
<br />
===Big black borders around small image on HD monitors===<br />
<br />
Out of the box, R-Pi graphics don't necessarily fill the whole screen. This is due to something called "Underscan", and it can be fixed easily.<br />
<br />
Note: the best solution is to disable overscan in display menu options (it may be called "just scan", "screen fit", "HD size", "full pixel", "unscaled", "dot by dot", "native" or "1:1"), then use the disable_overscan=1 option.<br />
<br />
Edit the configuration file, see the instructions at [[R-Pi_ConfigurationFile]].<br />
<br />
Add the following lines to the configuration file...<br />
<br />
If your display has no overscan:<br />
<br />
<pre><br />
<br />
disable_overscan=1<br />
<br />
</pre><br />
<br />
or if your display has some overscan:<br />
<br />
<pre><br />
<br />
overscan_left=-20<br />
<br />
overscan_right=-20<br />
<br />
overscan_top=-20<br />
<br />
overscan_bottom=-20<br />
<br />
</pre><br />
<br />
Making the R-Pi graphics fill the screen is a matter of experimenting with the numbers you put in the config.txt file. Change the numbers – try jumps of 5 or 10 at a time. Bigger negative numbers reduce the black borders (so -40 means less black border than -20). The numbers do not all have to be the same; you can use this feature to centre the display on the screen.<br />
<br />
===Writing spills off the screen on HD monitors===<br />
<br />
Out of the box, R-Pi graphics may be larger than the 1080p (ie Full HD) screen. This is due to something called "Overscan", and it can be fixed easily by creating a simple text file on the R-Pi SD card by using Notepad on your PC.<br />
<br />
Follow the instructions in the section "Big black borders around small image on HD monitors", but use positive numbers for the overscan settings, for example<br />
<pre><br />
<br />
overscan_left=20<br />
<br />
overscan_right=20<br />
<br />
overscan_top=20<br />
<br />
overscan_bottom=20<br />
<br />
</pre><br />
<br />
===Interference visible on a HDMI or DVI monitor===<br />
This may be caused by loss of signal on long video cables. The signal level may be increased by changing a configuration parameter.<br />
<br />
[[File:RPi_HDMI_interference.jpg|600px]]<br />
<br />
Edit the configuration file, see the instructions at [[R-Pi_ConfigurationFile]].<br />
<br />
Add the following line to the configuration file<br />
config_hdmi_boost=4<br />
<br />
You may experiment with different values of config_hdmi_boost. Value 1 is used for very short cables, value 7 is used for very long cables. At your own risk, you can go up to 11, but risk frying a sensitive monitor. <br />
<br />
Note that various adapters, such as HDMI-to-DVI, can also cause power loss and therefore require high values of config_hdmi_boost even with short cables.<br />
<br />
This option can also help when there is no display output at all, the display periodically blanks, or colours are wrong/inverted.<br />
<br />
This symptom can also be caused by RasPi +5V (measured from TP1 to TP2) falling too low. See [[#Troubleshooting_power_problems|Troubleshooting Power Problems]].<br />
<br />
===No HDMI output at all===<br />
First make sure the display is powered on and switched to the right input before booting Pi.<br />
<br />
If you have the [http://www.raspberrypi.org/archives/1435 Wheezy] image (recommended) then try<br />
hdmi_safe=1<br />
<br />
Otherwise, try adding the following line to the configuration file (similar to interference case above)<br />
config_hdmi_boost=4<br />
<br />
Your monitor/cable may not be asserting the hotplug signal. You can override this with:<br />
hdmi_force_hotplug=1<br />
<br />
Also [http://www.raspberrypi.org/phpBB3/viewtopic.php?f=28&t=7513 try] the following video options:<br />
hdmi_group=2<br />
hdmi_mode=4<br />
which resolved an issue with DVI monitor reporting "input signal out of range"<br />
<br />
As a last resort, try deleting (rename to keep backup) config.txt from the SD card.<br />
<br />
Also check that the RasPi +5V voltage (measured from TP1 to TP2) is in the correct range. One user found that his DVI-D monitor blanked out when +5V was too low. See [[#Troubleshooting_power_problems|Troubleshooting Power Problems]].<br />
<br />
Here's a rare cause: A standard HDMI cable has five individual ground wires plus a shield. Some cheap HDMI cables do not implement the individual grounds and just have a common foil shield that's connected to the HDMI plug shells at both ends. This works OK in most HDMI applications since most HDMI sources (like RasPi) and most monitors connect the shells to circuit ground. However, some HDMI or DVI monitors may requires individual ground lines. You can tell if an HDMI cable implements the individual grounds by checking for continuity using an Ohmmeter or multimeter. You can find the HDMI pinout for full-size connectors at [http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/HDMI Wikipedia].<br />
<br />
===Composite displays no image===<br />
The output display will default to HDMI if a HDMI display is connected, and composite if not. Make sure there isn't a HDMI cable connected when you want to use composite output.<br />
<br />
Also, check that your TV is set to the correct input, normally marked "AV". If your TV has multiple AV inputs, try all of the inputs, normally by pressing a button marked "AV" or "Input" or "Source" or "->O" on the remote control.<br />
<br />
===Composite displays only black and white image===<br />
The composite display defaults to NTSC (American) output. Most TVs will show an image with that, but older PAL (European) televisions may display only back and white or no image. To fix this:<br />
<br />
Edit the configuration file, see the instructions at [[R-Pi_ConfigurationFile]].<br />
<br />
Add the following line to the configuration file<br />
sdtv_mode=2<br />
<br />
(You can try other values: 0 is NTSC, 1 is Japanese NTSC, 2 is PAL, 3 is Brazilian PAL)<br />
<br />
===HDMI -> VGA adapters===<br />
Some good information can be found here:<br />
* [[RPi_VerifiedPeripherals#HDMI-.3EVGA_converter_boxes]]<br />
* [http://www.raspberrypi.org/phpBB3/viewtopic.php?f=28&t=9819 (RPi forum) Serious HDMI Problems. What's that smell? Burning Raspberry!]<br />
<br />
A commonly used adapter from Ebay: gallery with detailed images & steps of a modification to use external power source: [http://imgur.com/a/sLogs/all HERE] --''by [[User:Pinoccio|Pinoccio]]''<br />
<br />
==GPIO==<br />
Remember that the GPIO pins are 3.3V logic level only, and are <strong>NOT</strong> 5V tolerant.<br />
<br />
If you momentarily shorted the two end GPIO pins together (+3.3V and +5V), or a supply pin to ground, and the Pi appears to be dead, don't panic. The input polyfuse may have tripped. It is self-resetting after it cools down and the polymer re-crystallizes, which can take several hours. Set the Pi aside and try again later.<br />
<br />
The GPIO pins connect directly into the core of the ARM processer, and are static-sensitive, so you should avoid touching the pins wherever possible. If you are carrying a static charge, for example by taking off an acrylic pullover, or walking across a nylon carpet, touching the GPIO pins could destroy your R-Pi, so always earth yourself before touching the pins or anything connected to them.<br />
<br />
==General==<br />
===The time is incorrect===<br />
If the clock is off by a series of hours, in the command line type:<br />
sudo dpkg-reconfigure tzdata<br />
<br />
The R-Pi has no real-time clock, so unless it can access a timeserver over the network at boot, or time is manually entered by the user, the time/date will restart counting from the last logged time in the previous session.<br />
<br />
===A part broke off===<br />
<br />
The silver cylinder near the microUSB power input is a 220 uF capacitor ("C6" on schematic). It sticks up and due to the small surface-mount pads, it is easy to break off; several people have done so. This is a power supply filter capacitor which reduces any noise and spikes on the input +5V power. If you like, you can solder it back on, or just leave it off. If you do solder it back on, take care to observe the correct polarity with the black stripe towards the board edge. This part, C6 is a "just in case" component which is good design practice to include, but [http://www.raspberrypi.org/phpBB3/viewtopic.php?f=2&t=4926| as it turns out] most power supplies still work OK without this part installed. This part is also [http://elinux.org/RPi_Hardware#Capacitor_C6 discussed here].<br />
<br />
===Unable to install new software===<br />
When trying to install a software package (using the command sudo apt-get install xxxx) you may see the error<br />
Package yyyy is not available<br />
This means that your software list is out of date. Before attempting to install software, you should always make sure that you are using the latest software list by using the command<br />
sudo apt-get update<br />
<br />
==Troubleshooting power problems==<br />
<br />
If you think you have a problem with your power supply, it is a good idea to check the actual voltage<br />
on the Raspberry Pi circuit board. Two test points labelled TP1 and TP2 are provided on the circuit board<br />
to facilitate voltage measurements.<br />
<br />
Use a multimeter which is set to the range 20 volts DC (or 20v =). You should see a voltage between 4.75 and 5.25 volts. Anything outside this range indicates that you have a problem with your power supply or your power cable.<br />
<br />
If you have not used a multimeter before, see these [[http://www.sparkfun.com/tutorials/202 basic instructions]]<br />
<br />
Note: Even if the multimeter shows the correct voltage, you may have some power supply problems. A multimeter only displays the average voltage. If there are very short-lived dips or spikes in the voltage, these will not be shown by the multimeter. It is best to measure voltage when Pi is busy.<br />
<br />
If your voltage is low, it could be:<br />
* The power supply produces too low a voltage<br />
* The power supply cannot supply enough current, which results in a voltage drop. Make sure Power supply is labelled as at least 700mA. (Some cheap power supplies don't deliver what is labelled).<br />
* The Micro USB power cable is low quality. Some Micro USB cables have very thin conductors, resulting in enough voltage drop for RasPi to fail even if the power supply itself is fine. For details, see [[On_the_RPi_usb_power_cable]].<br />
* Attached USB devices want too much power. The Pi is only designed for up to 100mA USB devices. A USB device wanting more that that will cause a voltage drop.<br />
* The F3 Polyfuse could be blown or bad, see below for how to test.<br />
Note: keyboards with LCD displays, built in USB hubs, backlights, etc are likely to be problematic. Try to use a basic one. Wifi dongles are also unlikely to work when directly connected. Connect high powered USB devices to a powered USB hub.<br />
<br />
Try booting without HDMI, ethernet or USB deviced plugged in, and see if the voltage improves.<br />
See also: [[RPi_Hardware#Power_Supply_Problems| Power Supply Problems]]<br />
<br />
[[File:RPI_Test_Points.JPG|400px]] [[File:Voltmeter.JPG|250px]]<br />
<br />
<br />
'''How to test the F3 polyfuse<ref>http://www.raspberrypi.org/phpBB3/viewtopic.php?f=26&t=22318</ref>'''<br />
<br />
# Remove all the things plugged into your Raspberry Pi, including SD card.<br />
# Locate the TP2 test point on the top of the board.<br />
# Turn your board over and find the TP2 test point on the bottom of the board. One lead of your multi-meter will always be on the TP2 point on the bottom of the board for all tests.<br />
# Plug your power supply into the micro usb port and power your board.<br />
# Place one lead of your multi-meter on the TP2 point on the bottom of the board and one lead on the side of the F3 fuse closest to the edge of the board. Note the voltage. This is the voltage coming into your RPi from your power supply.<br />
# Keeping one lead on TP2, move the other lead to the side of F3 closest to the SD card slot. This is the voltage coming out of the F3 fuse.<br />
<br />
[[File:F3-testing.jpg|none|frame|Multi-meter lead placement for testing the Raspberry Pi F3 Polyfuse]]<br />
<br />
If the voltage is different by more than about 0.3v you probably have an issue with the F3 fuse<ref>http://www.raspberrypi.org/phpBB3/viewtopic.php?f=28&t=24005&p=222526#p222526</ref>.<br />
<br />
When polyfuses "blow" their resistance increases dramatically, there by limiting the voltage that can pass through them. If your power problem suddenly appeared after your board was known to be working fine, it is probable the fuse is just "blown" and will return to normal. Polyfuses recover from the tripped state to near their normal value in a few minutes, but do take some hours to fully recover so leave it unpowered and check it again in a little while.<ref>http://www.raspberrypi.org/phpBB3/viewtopic.php?f=28&t=24005&p=222549#p222543</ref> If your power problem has been since the first time you plugged in your board, the fuse was probably bad when it arrived and should be returned to place you purchased it.<br />
<br />
If you prefer to make your own PSU - see: [[RPi_5V_PSU_construction| Power Supply construction - HowTo]]<br />
<br />
==Hardware versions/revisions==<br />
Several different boards have been found probably from different assembly lines, and the following tables try to help you identify your board for better troubleshooting.<br />
<br />
Look for the date of manufacturing printed with the year and week. In this example year (2012) and week (18th):[[File:Date_of_manufacturing.jpg|200px|thumb|right]]<br />
<br />
For what we can see for model B boards there are mainly two versions that differ on the type RAM used, Samsung (S) and Hynix (H).<br />
<br />
For '''Board ver'''. we used: <model><RAM Maker><production date> (ex.: BS1218 is "Model B, Samsung RAM, 18th week of 2012")<br />
<br />
Model A:<br />
{| border="1" class="wikitable"<br />
|-<br />
! Board<br />
ver.<br />
! RAM<br />
Chip <br />
! USB<br />
Chip <br />
! Front<br />
! Back<br />
|-<br />
| <br />
| <br />
| <br />
| <br />
| <br />
|}<br />
<br />
<br />
Model B:<br />
{| border="1" class="wikitable"<br />
|-<br />
! Board<br />
ver.<br />
! RAM<br />
Chip <br />
! USB<br />
Chip <br />
! Front<br />
! Back<br />
|-<br />
| BS12xx<br />
| Samsung<br />
| SMSC<br />
| [[File:RaspberryPi-Board_A-Front.JPG|200px|thumb|center]]<br />
| [[File:RaspberryPi-Board_A-Back.JPG|200px|thumb|center]]<br />
|-<br />
| BH12xx<br />
| Hynix<br />
| SMSC<br />
| [[File:RaspberryPi-Board_B-Front.JPG|200px|thumb|center]]<br />
| [[File:RaspberryPi-Board_B-Back.JPG|200px|thumb|center]]<br />
|}<br />
<br />
<big>See a '''complete list''' and user feedback here: [[RaspberryPi Boards]]</big><br />
<br />
=References= <br />
<references/><br />
<br />
{{Template:Raspberry Pi}}<br />
<br />
[[Category:RaspberryPi]]</div>Bgirardothttps://elinux.org/index.php?title=R-Pi_Troubleshooting&diff=195752R-Pi Troubleshooting2012-11-27T17:51:29Z<p>Bgirardot: Updated polyfuse recovery time info</p>
<hr />
<div>[[Category:RaspberryPi]]<br />
<br />
Back to the [[R-Pi Hub|Hub]].<br />
<br />
This page lists the most common problems and suggests some solutions.<br />
<br />
See [[RPi_Bugs]] for problems that are bugs.<br />
<br />
==Power / Start-up==<br />
A good power supply that will supply 5V is vital. There is more information about See [[#Troubleshooting_power_problems]].<br />
<br />
Note that the PI has no BIOS, so nothing will be displayed on screen unless the PI successfully boots!<br />
<br />
===Red power LED does not light, nothing on display===<br />
The power is not properly connected.<br />
<br />
===Red power LED is blinking===<br />
The red power LED should never blink, because it is hard-wired to the 3.3V power supply rail. If it is blinking, as one user has reported<ref>http://www.raspberrypi.org/phpBB3/viewtopic.php?f=28&t=7528</ref> it means the 5V power supply is dropping out. Use a different power supply.<br />
<br />
===Red power LED is on, green LED does not flash, nothing on display===<br />
''note; For technical reasons the green LED might light up very faintly, this is normal, but it doesn't mean it "burns". When flashing/blinking the green LED should light up as bright as the power LED.''<br />
*The Raspberry Pi cannot find a valid image on the SD card. Check card is inserted correctly. Check that you have correctly written a Raspberry Pi image to the card. Did you have admin rights when you used the SD-card writer software? Without it the software might go through the motions without actually doing anything! To check if the writing process did actually happen Insert the SD card into a Windows machine and you should see bootcode.bin, fixup.dat and start.elf amongst others. See also, [[RPi_VerifiedPeripherals#SD_cards|Known SD Cards]]. It is also possible that the image you are writing to the card is corrupt, as downloads do occasionally end up corrupted or truncated. You can check with the checksum utility if your download is correct.<br />
<br />
*Try with no cables connected except the USB power lead, and SD card inserted. You should see flashing of the OK light for ~20 seconds. If that helps, plug in cables one at a time to identify which is interfering with boot.<br />
<br />
*Confirm the USB cable is properly seated in the power slot. The red power LED does not necessarily mean it is fully connected.<br />
<br />
*The voltage is too low (below 5 V), try a different power supply and/or cable. The R-Pi needs a supply rated for 700 mA or more. Some supplies labeled as such cannot actually provide their rated current while maintaining 5V. See also, [[#Troubleshooting_power_problems]].<br />
<br />
*There may be a bug in the distributed version of bootcode.bin which causes problems with some sdcards. Try this version: https://github.com/raspberrypi/firmware/blob/234c19de7cbaaf4997671d61df20a05759066295/boot/bootcode.bin. Please let us know if it "fixes" your non-working SD card (or, more importantly, if it doesn't). This can also manifest itself as intermittent booting, or only booting when cold.<br />
<br />
*''(unlikely)'' hardware abuse, for example by connecting a 7 V supply to a 3v3 GPIO output pin<ref>http://www.raspberrypi.org/phpBB3/viewtopic.php?f=6&t=5096&p=76503#p76503</ref> or powering up the board after a solder splash shorts some traces<ref>http://www.raspberrypi.org/phpBB3/viewtopic.php?f=6&t=5096&p=76654#p76654</ref>.<br />
<br />
*Look at the SD card holder on the Raspberry Pi carefully. At first glance it may look fine but the contacts must be springy and they must protrude at least 2mm as measured from the lower edge of the holder to the top of the contact bulge. This happens due to the solder process and the type of holder used. Some of the solder residue falls into the contact cavity restricting the springiness and the height that the contact protrudes. You can fix this yourself but remember you can void your warranty. The contacts are delicate so be carefull. Insert a needle pin under the contact bulge and pull lightly up until the one end of the contact unclips. Clean the cavity where the contact unclipped from of any solder or other residue by blowing into the cavity. Clip the contact back into the cavity by lightly pushing it into the cavity. Do this for all the contacts. Look at these photos. [[Media:SDcardHolder.JPG]], [[Media:UnclipContact.JPG]], [[Media:UnclippedContact.JPG]]<br />
<br />
*If for whatever reason the main polyfuse F3 has been overheated previously it may happen that it hasn't completely recovered, in which case, if you turn the PI on, a considerable amount of energy from the power supply is lost in the fuse and doesn't reach the PI. Try if the polyfuse seems hot. For this problem too read [[#Troubleshooting_power_problems]].<br />
<br />
===Green LED blinks in a specific pattern===<br />
<br />
With recent firmware, according to [http://www.raspberrypi.org/phpBB3/viewtopic.php?f=28&t=8725#p103338 this forum post] the green light will blink in a specific pattern to indicate some types of errors:<br />
<br />
* 3 flashes: <tt>loader.bin</tt> not found<br />
* 4 flashes: <tt>loader.bin</tt> not launched<br />
* 5 flashes: <tt>start.elf</tt> not found<br />
* 6 flashes: <tt>start.elf</tt> not launched<br />
* 7 flashes: <tt>kernel.img</tt> not found<br />
<br />
Firmware since 20th October 2012 no longer requires loader.bin, and the flashes mean:<br />
<br />
* 3 flashes: <tt>start.elf</tt> not found<br />
* 4 flashes: <tt>start.elf</tt> not launched<br />
* 7 flashes: <tt>kernel.img</tt> not found<br />
<br />
If start.elf won't launch it may be corrupt.<br />
<br />
===Coloured splash screen===<br />
[[File:Debug-screen.jpg]]<br />
<br />
With recent firmware, a coloured splash screen is displayed after firmware (start.elf) is loaded. This should be replaced by linux console a second later.<br />
However if the coloured screen remains, it suggests the kernel.img file is failing to boot. Try replacing it with a known good one.<br />
<br />
Immediately after displaying the splash screen, the PI starts consuming a little more current, if the PI resets at that moment its an indication that your PSU isn't able to deliver the full current your PI requires, but dips its output voltage below a minimum when loaded with the full current the PI needs.<br />
<br />
===Kernel Panic on boot ===<br />
Text appears on screen, but then hangs with debug messages. This can be caused by USB devices such as keyboards. <br />
Try again with nothing in the USB.<br />
<br />
===Raspberry Pi shuts down (or restarts) soon after booting up===<br />
This is caused by a power supply producing too low a voltage. See [[#Troubleshooting_power_problems]].<br />
<br />
===Pi boots sometimes but not always===<br />
With a known good power supply and known good SD card, the R-Pi boots occasionally, but other times shows only a tiny green flicker from the "OK" LED and it fails to start, even with no USB devices and no Ethernet. This has been reported several times<ref>http://www.raspberrypi.org/forum/troubleshooting/will-not-boot-consistently-any-suggestions-before-i-send-my-pi-back</ref><br />
<ref>http://www.raspberrypi.org/forum/troubleshooting/booted-once-wont-work-again</ref><br />
<ref>http://www.raspberrypi.org/forum/troubleshooting/possible-fault-pi-boots-sometimes-but-not-always</ref> and remains an open issue. Low voltage or an improper SD card can cause it. Some SD cards will work until they warm up slightly, and then fail<ref>http://www.raspberrypi.org/phpBB3/viewtopic.php?f=6&t=5900&p=79008#p79008</ref>. When exposed to 21 C room temperature the warmest part of an uncased working R-Pi should be 41 C<ref>http://www.raspberrypi.org/phpBB3/viewtopic.php?f=6&t=5900&p=78973#p78973</ref>. The wiki has a [[RPi_VerifiedPeripherals#SD_cards | list of working SD cards]]. Buy from a reliable vendor as it has been [http://www.petapixel.com/2011/05/20/one-third-of-the-sandisk-memory-cards-on-earth-are-counterfeit/ claimed] that 1/3 of all "Sandisk" labelled memory cards are counterfeit.<br />
*It could be that the SD memory card is not making proper contact with the Raspberry Pi. Look at the SD card holder on the Raspberry Pi carefully. At first glance it may look fine but the contacts must be springy and they must protrude at least 2mm as measured fron the lower edge of the holder to the top of the contact bulge. This happens due to the solder process and the type of holder used. Some of the solder residue falls into the contact cavity restricting the springiness and the height that the contact protrudes. You can fix this yourself but remember you can void your warranty. The contacts are delicate so be carefull. Insert a needle pin under the contact bulge and pull lightly up until the one end of the contact unclips. Clean the cavity where the contact unclipped from of any solder or other residue by blowing into the cavity. Clip the contact back into the cavity by lightly pushing it into the cavity. Do this for all the contacts. Look at these photos. [[Media:SDcardHolder.JPG]], [[Media:UnclipContact.JPG]], [[Media:UnclippedContact.JPG]]<br />
<br />
==Keyboard / Mouse / Input Devices==<br />
<br />
===R-Pi does not respond to key presses / Keyboard randomly repeats key presses===<br />
''note:during entering the password most linux distro's wont show that you typed in anything (not even "*" characters) this is normal behaviour, try the keyboard while entering the user name!''<br />
<br />
This is most often caused by inadequate power. Use a good power supply and a good power cable. Some cheap cables that work with a cell phone, cannot fully power the R-Pi. Some USB devices require a lot of power: most will have a label showing the voltage and mA requirements. They should be 5v 100mA each max, any more than this they must be used with a powered USB hub. Try unplugging every USB device except the keyboard (you should also note that some keyboards have built in hubs and can try to draw 150mA (Pi can only handle 100mA per USB slot without a hub)).<br />
Also, use the latest software. Forum user MrEngman [http://www.raspberrypi.org/forum/absolute-beginners/using-a-powered-usb-port-to-power-a-rpi#p76485 reported] some keyboard repeats and wireless hangs until [http://www.raspberrypi.org/downloads upgrading] to the debian6-19-04-2012 kernel, which he reports stable with no problems even with a low [[R-Pi_Troubleshooting#Troubleshooting_power_problems | TP1-TP2 voltage]] of 4.65 - 4.68 volts.<br />
<br />
Some users have reported that their keyboards work fine on Arch linux, but on Debian distro's, their keyboards become erratic (repeats and/or skips key presses). One suggested remedy to this, which has some positive feedback, is to adjust the USB bus speed. To do this, you need to edit the cmdline.txt file, and add "dwc_otg.speed=1" (without quotes) to the end of the file (found in the /boot directory).<br />
<br />
Worst case scenario, some (advanced) keyboards, such as the Roccat Arvo, have kernel modules that need activating. If you have access to another keyboard temporarily, you will need to modprobe the relevent driver. Or if this is not possible, you can rebuild the kernel (instructions available on the wiki page) with the modules installed. (to find the drivers for keyboards etc, you need to find "Device Drivers -> hid Devices".)<br />
<br />
===Keyboard / Mouse interferes with USB WiFi device===<br />
Connecting a keyboard and/or mouse while a USB WiFi device is connected, may cause one or both devices to malfunction. On April 30 2012, there was a bugfix<ref>https://github.com/raspberrypi/linux/commit/e09244e60881148431ecd016ccc42f1fa0678556</ref> relating to USB sharing between high-speed (eg. WiFi) and full/low-speed devices (eg. keyboard/mouse). User spennig<ref>http://www.raspberrypi.org/forum/troubleshooting/usb-power-hub-wifi/page-4#p74609</ref><ref>http://www.raspberrypi.org/forum/troubleshooting/success-with-kb-mouse-wifi?value=3761&type=8&include=1&search=1</ref> reports this patch did not fix the Mouse/WiFi conflict. On 2012-05-12, user spennig was pleased to confirm that wifi was working with a USB keyboard and mouse, as long as the Raspberry Pi had a good PSU and a powered hub. Even so, some experimentation was needed, e.g. USB WiFi connected to the device, and the keyboard and mouse connected to the powered hub. Some experimentation may be necessary to find a working combination; however a good power supply is essential.<br />
<br />
===Wireless Keyboard trouble===<br />
Some wireless keyboards, for example the Microsoft Wireless Keyboard 800 are reported to fail<ref>http://www.raspberrypi.org/forum/troubleshooting/display-and-keyboard-issues-on-a-real-pi#p74816</ref> even though the current drawn by the wireless adaptor is within the R-Pi USB spec limit of 100 mA. This may be a software driver problem.<br />
<br />
===Re-mapping the keyboard with Debian Squeeze===<br />
If different letters appear on-screen from that which you typed, you need to reconfigure you keyboard settings. In Debian, from a command line type:<br />
sudo dpkg-reconfigure keyboard-configuration<br />
Follow the prompts. Then restart your RasPi.<br />'''Or:'''<br /> From the command line type:<br />
sudo nano /etc/default/keyboard<br />
Then find where it says <blockquote>XKBLAYOUT=”gb”</blockquote>and change the gb to the two letter code for your country. [http://www.raspberrypi.org/phpBB3/viewtopic.php?p=78325#p78325]<br />
<br />
===Slow keyboard mapping=== <br />
If you have remapped your keyboard and get a very long delay during the keyboard mapping at startup, type the following once on the command line after you have logged in:<br />
sudo setupcon<br />
<br />
===No USB device works, with known good PS, SD card, KB=== <br />
There has been more than one report<ref>http://www.raspberrypi.org/phpBB3/viewtopic.php?f=28&t=7533</ref><ref>http://www.raspberrypi.org/phpBB3/viewtopic.php?t=5766#p77576</ref><ref>http://www.raspberrypi.org/phpBB3/viewtopic.php?t=5766#p80995</ref> of a R-Pi booting but not getting USB input, using a known-good power supply, SD card, and keyboard. The more common cause for no USB devices working is [[#Troubleshooting_power_problems|low power supply voltage]] from bad PSU, cable, or USB hub, but in this case the problem was no clock signal present at the LAN9512 USB/Ethernet chip "IC3", and the solution was to reflow the solder on the 25 MHz crystal "X1" on the bottom side of the board.<br />
Or return the board for a replacement, but before making this conclusion, confirm known good peripherals. A significant number of <br />
[[RPi_VerifiedPeripherals#USB_Keyboards| USB keyboards]] are not compatible with R-Pi. As of June 1 2012, Eben reported<ref>http://www.raspberrypi.org/phpBB3/viewtopic.php?f=28&t=6822&p=89589&hilit=eben#p89513</ref> that only about 1 in 1000 shipped R-Pi boards have been found to have a hardware fault of any kind.<br />
<br />
== Updating firmware ==<br />
=== Check your firmware version ===<br />
Using the latest firmware version may help various problems with SD card and display compatibility. Check the kernel version with:<br />
uname -a<br />
Linux RPi 3.1.19 #1 PREEMPT Fri Jun 1 14:16:38 CEST 2012 armv6l GNU/Linux<br />
<br />
And the GPU firmware with:<br />
/opt/vc/bin/vcgencmd version<br />
May 31 2012 13:35:03<br />
Copyright (c) 2012 Broadcom<br />
version 317494 (release)<br />
<br />
=== Get the latest firmware version ===<br />
The GPU firmware and kernel can be updated with [https://github.com/Hexxeh/rpi-update Hexxeh's rpi-update tool].<br />
<br />
However this requires the Pi to be successfully booted. With sdcard problems, you may not get that far, so can try a manual udpate.<br />
If you have a Linux machine, rpi-update can be run on that in an offline mode, and will update your sdcard from the Linux machine.<br />
<br />
Otherwise, on a Windows computer, you will see the "/boot" partition appear as the contents of SD card. <br />
You can download the latest GPU firmware version [https://github.com/raspberrypi/firmware/blob/master/boot/start.elf here].<br />
Click on '''view raw''', then save it, and put the new start.elf file on the sdcard replacing the existing one. Similarly, the latest kernel is [https://github.com/raspberrypi/firmware/tree/master/boot/kernel.img here].<br />
After updating these files you should be able to boot. You still need to run rpi-update to update the kernel modules (in /lib/modules) and the GPU libraries (in /opt/vc).<br />
<br />
=== Choosing the right ARM/GPU memory split ===<br />
There is a choice of how the 256M/512M of RAM is divided between the ARM and GPU:<br />
gpu_mem=16 : 16M GPU, 240M/496M ARM split : Maximum ARM memory. Good for ARM desktop use. No accelerated video or 3D possible.<br />
gpu_mem=64 : 64M GPU, 192M/448M ARM split : Reasonable ARM memory. Simple video (omxplayer) or 3D (quake) is possible. This is the default.<br />
gpu_mem=128 : 128M GPU, 128M/384M ARM split : Use this for heavy 3D work, or 3D plus video. Needed for XBMC.<br />
<br />
To switch, edit the gpu_mem= setting in your config.txt and reboot.<br />
<br />
Note: other amounts are also possible, but setting gpu_mem=32 is usually the wrong choice. gpu_mem=16 is almost always a better choice.<br />
<br />
Also note that before the release of the 51MB PI a different method was used based on splitting the 256MB RAM in a part for the CPU and GPU. As this noting system was causing trouble if the amount of RAM was not always the same. the above new method was adapted.<br />
<br />
Make sure your editor doesn't change the first letter of the line into an uppercase letter, as some editors do. The entry is case sensitive.<br />
<br />
== SD cards ==<br />
<br />
* If you have problems, check you have latest firmware version (described above)<br />
* Some SD cards do not work on the R-Pi, so check the [[RPi_VerifiedPeripherals#SD_cards|list of known SD cards]].<br />
* If you are having problems setting up your SD card you might want to start by erasing it completely - especially if it has been used elsewhere and still contains data / partitions.<br />
** Windows and Mac users can download a formatting tool from the SD Association: https://www.sdcard.org/downloads/formatter_3/<br />
* Reformatting cards is also easy to do in a digital camera.<br />
* After writing the image to the SD card, verify that you can see the boot partition when you insert the SD card into your computer. The partition should contain a number of files, including ''start.elf'' and ''kernel.img''. If you do not see these files on the SD card, you have made an error writing the image file.<br />
* If you are manually preparing your SD card on Linux or Mac OS using the ''dd'' command, this operation will completely erase any existing data and partitions. Make sure you write to the whole card (e.g. <tt>/dev/sdd</tt>) and not to an existing partition (e.g. <tt>/dev/sdd1</tt>).<br />
* If you have an sdcard that doesn't work with latest firmware, head over [http://www.raspberrypi.org/phpBB3/viewtopic.php?f=63&t=6093 here].<br />
* If you put the SD card into your PC in an attempt to write the R-Pi operating system onto it, and the PC tells you the card is write-protected, even with the write-protect tab in the correct, forward position, then you may have a faulty SD-card rewriter. There's a common fault with many SD-card rewriters - The write-protect tab is detected by a very thin, narrow metal strip, that is part of a switch. When the card is inserted, the write-protect tab is supposed to push the strip and make/break the contact, as needed. Unfortunately, these strips have a habit of getting stuck, because they are mounted in a thin plastic channel, and only need to be deformed slightly sideways to get jammed.<br />
Luckily, if you have this problem, most built-in card readers are easy to pull apart and repair; some users have even reported succesfully unjamming the switch with a blast of compressed air from a can into the SD-card slot without having to dismantle anything.<br />
You may also be able to temporarily get round the problem by putting the write-protect tab in a half-way position - this pushes on a different part of the strip and may break the contact - it's worth trying a few, slightly different positions. You could also use a USB-SD card adaptor, which are cheap to buy.<br />
<br />
==Networking==<br />
<br />
===Ethernet connection is lost when a USB device is plugged in===<br />
This is often caused by inadequate power. Use a good power supply and a good power cable. Some cheap cables that work with a cell phone, cannot fully power the R-Pi. Some USB devices require a lot of power (>100 mA), so they must be used with a powered USB hub. Some cheap USB hubs suck power from the Raspberry Pi even if a USB power supply is connected. (More often than not, however, the reverse is true with cheap hubs—the Pi draws just enough power backwards from the powered hub to unsuccessfully attempt booting.)<br />
<br />
There is an ongoing issue with the Ethernet connection being lost when low-speed devices, such as mice or keyboards are connected via a powered USB hub. The simplest way to solve this is to connect your mouse and keyboard directly into the 2 USB ports on the R-Pi (assuming they draw less than 100 mA apiece).<br />
<br />
===Ethernet connects at 10M instead of 100M===<br />
The LED in the corner of the board labelled "10M" is mislabeled. When that LED is on, the R-Pi is actually connected at 100 Mbps. You can confirm the true transfer rate using a network benchmark such as iperf. You can also read the current network speed with<br />
cat /sys/class/net/eth0/speed<br />
<br />
===Cannot ssh in to Pi===<br />
<br />
In the Debian image, ssh is disabled by default. Boot commands are taken from /boot/boot.rc if that file present. There is an example file named '''boot_enable_ssh.rc''' that enables ssh. So:<br />
<br />
sudo mv /boot/boot_enable_ssh.rc /boot/boot.rc<br />
<br />
and reboot should enable ssh. (password as below)<br />
<br />
===Network/USB chip gets too hot to touch===<br />
<br />
This is normal. In open air at 24 C, the LAN9512 Ethernet/USB chip reaches about 52 C after some time. This is too hot to touch for more than a few seconds, but it is not unusually hot for the chip.<br />
<br />
The <br />
[http://www.smsc.com/media/Downloads_Public/Data_Sheets/9512.pdf LAN9512 data sheet] in Table 4.1 on p.40 says it comes in two versions, rated for operation at an ambient temperature in still air (Ta) of 70 C (commercial) or 85 C (industrial). It uses 763 mW at 3.3V with maximum traffic on 100baseT and both USB ports (Table 4.3.4, p. 42).<br />
<br />
There is a study of RasPi heat profiles by "Remy" at [http://www.geektopia.es/es/technology/2012/06/22/articulos/se-calienta-el-ordenador-raspberry-pi-estudio-de-sus-temperaturas-en-funcionamiento.html ¿Se calienta el ordenador Raspberry Pi? Estudio de sus temperaturas en funcionamiento] (''Is the Raspberry Pi computer getting hot? A study of its operational temperature.'') The Spanish article has numerous color temperature images of RasPi in various operational modes, with the highest LAN9512 case temperature measured as 64.5 C.<br />
<br />
===Networking no longer works when changing SD card between two Raspberry Pis===<br />
<br />
In some distributions, /etc/udev/rules.d/70-persistent-net.rules remembers which MAC address is associated with eth0, so each new device will be assigned as a different interface (eth1, eth2, etc.) due to the different MAC addresses. Editing /etc/udev/rules.d/70-persistent-net.rules to remove the invalid rules and rebooting may help fix the problem.<br />
<br />
===Crashes occur with high network load===<br />
<br />
The USB driver allocates memory from the kernel, and when traffic is very high (e.g. when using torrents/newsgroup downloads) this memory can be exhausted causing crashes/hangs. You should have a line like:<br />
<br />
vm.min_free_kbytes = 8192<br />
<br />
in /etc/sysctl.conf. Try increasing that number to 16384 (or higher). If that doesn't work, try adding to /boot/cmdline.txt<br />
<br />
smsc95xx.turbo_mode=N<br />
<br />
which will reduce network throughput, but has improved stability issues for some.<br />
<br />
===Network connection fails when a Graphical User Interface is being used===<br />
<br />
The network connection may fail when the command startx is used to enter a Graphical User Interface. This is caused by a bug in the USB driver related to certain types of USB mouse.<br />
<br />
As of 1 September 2012, this fault is fixed in the latest firmware. To load the latest firmware, see<br />
[http://elinux.org/R-Pi_Troubleshooting#Updating_firmware http://elinux.org/R-Pi_Troubleshooting#Updating_firmware]<br />
<br />
==Passwords==<br />
===I do not know the password to login===<br />
Please check the page [http://www.raspberrypi.org/downloads http://www.raspberrypi.org/downloads] for the correct username and password for each image.<br />
<br />
Here are the most common username/password combinations:<br />
*Debian after Feb 2012: pi/raspberry<br />
*Debian 17 Feb 2012: pi/suse<br />
*Arch: root/root<br />
*Bodhi: pi/bodhilinux<br />
<br />
===Some programs refuse to accept my password===<br />
While using Debian, some programs may ask for your password but refuse to accept a valid password.<br />
<br />
This is a fault in old Debian images previous to September 2012. If you are using an image with this fault, upgrade to a more modern image or enter the following command on the command line.<br />
gconftool-2 --type bool --set /apps/gksu/sudo-mode true<br />
Please enter this command carefully, the spaces are important. The command should be accepted without any response or errors.<br />
<br />
===I don't know the root password===<br />
<br />
There is no root password set by default on Debian. You are expected to do everything through sudo. You can set one with "sudo passwd root" - just make sure you know what you are doing with a root account.<br />
<br />
==Sound==<br />
===Sound does not work with an HDMI monitor===<br />
This is caused by some computer monitors which select DVI mode even if an HDMI cable is connected. This fix may be necessary even if other HDMI devices work perfectly on the same monitor (or TV)!<br />
<br />
Edit the configuration file - see the instructions at [[R-Pi_ConfigurationFile]].<br />
<br />
Add the following line to the configuration file:<br />
hdmi_drive=2<br />
<br />
This will force it to select HDMI mode.<br />
<br />
<br />
'''More reasons why sound does not work with an HDMI monitor'''<br />
<br />
With an HDMI connection it might be possible to hear:<br />
./hello_audio.bin 1<br />
but not:<br />
aplay /usr/share/sounds/alsa/Front_Center.wav<br />
<br />
Firstly, it seems that some HD TVs mute audible sound output when there is no digital input, and slowly fade the sound up and down at the start and end of digital input. This means that short duration sounds will not be heard. A work around is to play longer duration wav files.<br />
<br />
Secondly, it seems that some HD TVs mute audible sound output when there is only one channel of digital input. So, as the file Front_Center.wav is mono, it might not be heard. ALSA aplay uses the file information header to configure its digital output. And the aplay -c 2 option does not over-ride the settings aplay picks up from the file information header. So, if your HD TV doesn't accept just one channel of digital input, you cannot use aplay to hear a mono wav file. However, with the command speaker-test, the -c2 option does work, and sets 2 channels in the digital stream. So speaker-test can be used to hear the file Front_Center.wav in either the left or right speaker using the -s option 1 or 2. <br />
For example<br />
Speaker-test -c 2 -s 1 -t wav -W /usr/share/sounds/alsa -w Front_Center.wav<br />
should be heard on the left speaker. But note that the command speaker-test seems only to like mono wav files, and seems not to play stereo wav files.<br />
<br />
The command aplay plays 2 channel stereo wav files in stereo sound without problem (provided they last longer than the time it takes the TV to unmute and remute). A helpful example I found is the stereo file LRMonoPhase4.wav at the Kozco web site [http://www.kozco.com/tech/soundtests.html]<br />
<br />
===Sound does not work at all, or in some applications===<br />
In Debian Squeeze, sound is disabled by default because the ALSA sound driver is still "alpha" (not fully tested) on the R-Pi. To try out sound, from the command prompt ''before'' "startx", type<br />
<br />
sudo apt-get install alsa-utils<br />
sudo modprobe snd_bcm2835<br />
<br />
On Debian Wheezy, snd_bm2835 is enabled, by default, do that step is not necessary. Next try:<br />
<br />
sudo aplay /usr/share/sounds/alsa/Front_Center.wav<br />
<br />
By default output will be automatic (hdmi if hdmi supports audio, otherwise analogue). You can force it with:<br />
<br />
sudo amixer cset numid=3 <n><br />
<br />
where n is 0=auto, 1=headphones, 2=hdmi.<br />
<br />
With recent firmware, you can build hello_audio with:<br />
cd /opt/vc/src/hello_pi/<br />
./rebuild.sh<br />
cd hello_audio<br />
<br />
With older firmware<br />
cd /opt/vc/src/hello_pi/hello_audio<br />
make<br />
<br />
to test analogue output:<br />
./hello_audio.bin<br />
and:<br />
./hello_audio.bin 1<br />
to test HDMI.<br />
<br />
Also note that you may have to add your user to the 'audio' group to get permission to access the sound card.<br />
<br />
==Display==<br />
===Startx fails to start===<br />
If you just get errors instead of a desktop when typing<br />
startx<br />
you may be out of storage space on the SD card. By default there are only a few hundred MB free in the 2 GB main partition, which can quickly fill up if you download files. Make sure there is some space free (gparted can expand a partition, if the SD card is > 2GB). Also, installing some software may incorrectly create or modify a .Xauthority file in your home directory, causing startx to fail, according to [http://www.raspberrypi.org/forum/troubleshooting/startx-fails-worked-yesterday this thread]. Temporarily renaming, moving, or deleting that file may fix the problem.<br />
<br />
===Screen is the wrong color===<br />
Check and see if the DVI cable is screwed in properly. If that doesn't work then try [[#Interference_visible_on_a_HDMI_or_DVI_monitor|this]] section.<br />
<br />
===Video does not play or plays very slowly===<br />
The only hardware-accelerated video player is in the [http://www.raspberrypi.org/forum/general-discussion/openelec-meets-raspberry-pi-part-1-xbmc XBMC distribution] and its command line variant [[omxplayer]]. H264 is the only hardware-accelerated codec, for playback. No hardware encoding is supported. Additional codecs were not purchased as licensing fees would have increased the R-Pi's price.<br />
<br />
===Can only get 800x480 resolution in LXDE (Arch linux)===<br />
Known issue with distro package as of 17th April 2012 - there's some missing boot config information. Creating a suitable cmdline.txt fixes it - type the following at the Raspberry Pi command line:<br />
<br />
<pre><br />
sudo echo "dwc_otg.lpm_enable=0 console=ttyAMA0,115200 kgdboc=ttyAMA0,115200 root=/dev/mmcblk0p2 rootfstype=ext3 rootwait" >/boot/cmdline.txt<br />
</pre><br />
<br />
===Big black borders around small image on HD monitors===<br />
<br />
Out of the box, R-Pi graphics don't necessarily fill the whole screen. This is due to something called "Underscan", and it can be fixed easily.<br />
<br />
Note: the best solution is to disable overscan in display menu options (it may be called "just scan", "screen fit", "HD size", "full pixel", "unscaled", "dot by dot", "native" or "1:1"), then use the disable_overscan=1 option.<br />
<br />
Edit the configuration file, see the instructions at [[R-Pi_ConfigurationFile]].<br />
<br />
Add the following lines to the configuration file...<br />
<br />
If your display has no overscan:<br />
<br />
<pre><br />
<br />
disable_overscan=1<br />
<br />
</pre><br />
<br />
or if your display has some overscan:<br />
<br />
<pre><br />
<br />
overscan_left=-20<br />
<br />
overscan_right=-20<br />
<br />
overscan_top=-20<br />
<br />
overscan_bottom=-20<br />
<br />
</pre><br />
<br />
Making the R-Pi graphics fill the screen is a matter of experimenting with the numbers you put in the config.txt file. Change the numbers – try jumps of 5 or 10 at a time. Bigger negative numbers reduce the black borders (so -40 means less black border than -20). The numbers do not all have to be the same; you can use this feature to centre the display on the screen.<br />
<br />
===Writing spills off the screen on HD monitors===<br />
<br />
Out of the box, R-Pi graphics may be larger than the 1080p (ie Full HD) screen. This is due to something called "Overscan", and it can be fixed easily by creating a simple text file on the R-Pi SD card by using Notepad on your PC.<br />
<br />
Follow the instructions in the section "Big black borders around small image on HD monitors", but use positive numbers for the overscan settings, for example<br />
<pre><br />
<br />
overscan_left=20<br />
<br />
overscan_right=20<br />
<br />
overscan_top=20<br />
<br />
overscan_bottom=20<br />
<br />
</pre><br />
<br />
===Interference visible on a HDMI or DVI monitor===<br />
This may be caused by loss of signal on long video cables. The signal level may be increased by changing a configuration parameter.<br />
<br />
[[File:RPi_HDMI_interference.jpg|600px]]<br />
<br />
Edit the configuration file, see the instructions at [[R-Pi_ConfigurationFile]].<br />
<br />
Add the following line to the configuration file<br />
config_hdmi_boost=4<br />
<br />
You may experiment with different values of config_hdmi_boost. Value 1 is used for very short cables, value 7 is used for very long cables. At your own risk, you can go up to 11, but risk frying a sensitive monitor. <br />
<br />
Note that various adapters, such as HDMI-to-DVI, can also cause power loss and therefore require high values of config_hdmi_boost even with short cables.<br />
<br />
This option can also help when there is no display output at all, the display periodically blanks, or colours are wrong/inverted.<br />
<br />
This symptom can also be caused by RasPi +5V (measured from TP1 to TP2) falling too low. See [[#Troubleshooting_power_problems|Troubleshooting Power Problems]].<br />
<br />
===No HDMI output at all===<br />
First make sure the display is powered on and switched to the right input before booting Pi.<br />
<br />
If you have the [http://www.raspberrypi.org/archives/1435 Wheezy] image (recommended) then try<br />
hdmi_safe=1<br />
<br />
Otherwise, try adding the following line to the configuration file (similar to interference case above)<br />
config_hdmi_boost=4<br />
<br />
Your monitor/cable may not be asserting the hotplug signal. You can override this with:<br />
hdmi_force_hotplug=1<br />
<br />
Also [http://www.raspberrypi.org/phpBB3/viewtopic.php?f=28&t=7513 try] the following video options:<br />
hdmi_group=2<br />
hdmi_mode=4<br />
which resolved an issue with DVI monitor reporting "input signal out of range"<br />
<br />
As a last resort, try deleting (rename to keep backup) config.txt from the SD card.<br />
<br />
Also check that the RasPi +5V voltage (measured from TP1 to TP2) is in the correct range. One user found that his DVI-D monitor blanked out when +5V was too low. See [[#Troubleshooting_power_problems|Troubleshooting Power Problems]].<br />
<br />
Here's a rare cause: A standard HDMI cable has five individual ground wires plus a shield. Some cheap HDMI cables do not implement the individual grounds and just have a common foil shield that's connected to the HDMI plug shells at both ends. This works OK in most HDMI applications since most HDMI sources (like RasPi) and most monitors connect the shells to circuit ground. However, some HDMI or DVI monitors may requires individual ground lines. You can tell if an HDMI cable implements the individual grounds by checking for continuity using an Ohmmeter or multimeter. You can find the HDMI pinout for full-size connectors at [http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/HDMI Wikipedia].<br />
<br />
===Composite displays no image===<br />
The output display will default to HDMI if a HDMI display is connected, and composite if not. Make sure there isn't a HDMI cable connected when you want to use composite output.<br />
<br />
Also, check that your TV is set to the correct input, normally marked "AV". If your TV has multiple AV inputs, try all of the inputs, normally by pressing a button marked "AV" or "Input" or "Source" or "->O" on the remote control.<br />
<br />
===Composite displays only black and white image===<br />
The composite display defaults to NTSC (American) output. Most TVs will show an image with that, but older PAL (European) televisions may display only back and white or no image. To fix this:<br />
<br />
Edit the configuration file, see the instructions at [[R-Pi_ConfigurationFile]].<br />
<br />
Add the following line to the configuration file<br />
sdtv_mode=2<br />
<br />
(You can try other values: 0 is NTSC, 1 is Japanese NTSC, 2 is PAL, 3 is Brazilian PAL)<br />
<br />
===HDMI -> VGA adapters===<br />
Some good information can be found here:<br />
* [[RPi_VerifiedPeripherals#HDMI-.3EVGA_converter_boxes]]<br />
* [http://www.raspberrypi.org/phpBB3/viewtopic.php?f=28&t=9819 (RPi forum) Serious HDMI Problems. What's that smell? Burning Raspberry!]<br />
<br />
A commonly used adapter from Ebay: gallery with detailed images & steps of a modification to use external power source: [http://imgur.com/a/sLogs/all HERE] --''by [[User:Pinoccio|Pinoccio]]''<br />
<br />
==GPIO==<br />
Remember that the GPIO pins are 3.3V logic level only, and are <strong>NOT</strong> 5V tolerant.<br />
<br />
If you momentarily shorted the two end GPIO pins together (+3.3V and +5V), or a supply pin to ground, and the Pi appears to be dead, don't panic. The input polyfuse may have tripped. It is self-resetting after it cools down and the polymer re-crystallizes, which can take several hours. Set the Pi aside and try again later.<br />
<br />
The GPIO pins connect directly into the core of the ARM processer, and are static-sensitive, so you should avoid touching the pins wherever possible. If you are carrying a static charge, for example by taking off an acrylic pullover, or walking across a nylon carpet, touching the GPIO pins could destroy your R-Pi, so always earth yourself before touching the pins or anything connected to them.<br />
<br />
==General==<br />
===The time is incorrect===<br />
If the clock is off by a series of hours, in the command line type:<br />
sudo dpkg-reconfigure tzdata<br />
<br />
The R-Pi has no real-time clock, so unless it can access a timeserver over the network at boot, or time is manually entered by the user, the time/date will restart counting from the last logged time in the previous session.<br />
<br />
===A part broke off===<br />
<br />
The silver cylinder near the microUSB power input is a 220 uF capacitor ("C6" on schematic). It sticks up and due to the small surface-mount pads, it is easy to break off; several people have done so. This is a power supply filter capacitor which reduces any noise and spikes on the input +5V power. If you like, you can solder it back on, or just leave it off. If you do solder it back on, take care to observe the correct polarity with the black stripe towards the board edge. This part, C6 is a "just in case" component which is good design practice to include, but [http://www.raspberrypi.org/phpBB3/viewtopic.php?f=2&t=4926| as it turns out] most power supplies still work OK without this part installed. This part is also [http://elinux.org/RPi_Hardware#Capacitor_C6 discussed here].<br />
<br />
===Unable to install new software===<br />
When trying to install a software package (using the command sudo apt-get install xxxx) you may see the error<br />
Package yyyy is not available<br />
This means that your software list is out of date. Before attempting to install software, you should always make sure that you are using the latest software list by using the command<br />
sudo apt-get update<br />
<br />
==Troubleshooting power problems==<br />
<br />
If you think you have a problem with your power supply, it is a good idea to check the actual voltage<br />
on the Raspberry Pi circuit board. Two test points labelled TP1 and TP2 are provided on the circuit board<br />
to facilitate voltage measurements.<br />
<br />
Use a multimeter which is set to the range 20 volts DC (or 20v =). You should see a voltage between 4.75 and 5.25 volts. Anything outside this range indicates that you have a problem with your power supply or your power cable.<br />
<br />
If you have not used a multimeter before, see these [[http://www.sparkfun.com/tutorials/202 basic instructions]]<br />
<br />
Note: Even if the multimeter shows the correct voltage, you may have some power supply problems. A multimeter only displays the average voltage. If there are very short-lived dips or spikes in the voltage, these will not be shown by the multimeter. It is best to measure voltage when Pi is busy.<br />
<br />
If your voltage is low, it could be:<br />
* The power supply produces too low a voltage<br />
* The power supply cannot supply enough current, which results in a voltage drop. Make sure Power supply is labelled as at least 700mA. (Some cheap power supplies don't deliver what is labelled).<br />
* The Micro USB power cable is low quality. Some Micro USB cables have very thin conductors, resulting in enough voltage drop for RasPi to fail even if the power supply itself is fine. For details, see [[On_the_RPi_usb_power_cable]].<br />
* Attached USB devices want too much power. The Pi is only designed for up to 100mA USB devices. A USB device wanting more that that will cause a voltage drop.<br />
* The F3 Polyfuse could be blown or bad, see below for how to test.<br />
Note: keyboards with LCD displays, built in USB hubs, backlights, etc are likely to be problematic. Try to use a basic one. Wifi dongles are also unlikely to work when directly connected. Connect high powered USB devices to a powered USB hub.<br />
<br />
Try booting without HDMI, ethernet or USB deviced plugged in, and see if the voltage improves.<br />
See also: [[RPi_Hardware#Power_Supply_Problems| Power Supply Problems]]<br />
<br />
[[File:RPI_Test_Points.JPG|400px]] [[File:Voltmeter.JPG|250px]]<br />
<br />
<br />
'''How to test the F3 polyfuse<ref>http://www.raspberrypi.org/phpBB3/viewtopic.php?f=26&t=22318</ref>'''<br />
<br />
# Remove all the things plugged into your Raspberry Pi, including SD card.<br />
# Locate the TP2 test point on the top of the board.<br />
# Turn your board over and find the TP2 test point on the bottom of the board. One lead of your multi-meter will always be on the TP2 point on the bottom of the board for all tests.<br />
# Plug your power supply into the micro usb port and power your board.<br />
# Place one lead of your multi-meter on the TP2 point on the bottom of the board and one lead on the side of the F3 fuse closest to the edge of the board. Note the voltage. This is the voltage coming into your RPi from your power supply.<br />
# Keeping one lead on TP2, move the other lead to the side of F3 closest to the SD card slot. This is the voltage coming out of the F3 fuse.<br />
<br />
[[File:F3-testing.jpg|none|frame|Multi-meter lead placement for testing the Raspberry Pi F3 Polyfuse]]<br />
<br />
If the voltage is different by more than about 0.3v you probably have an issue with the F3 fuse<ref>http://www.raspberrypi.org/phpBB3/viewtopic.php?f=28&t=24005&p=222526#p222526</ref>.<br />
<br />
When polyfuses "blow" their resistance increases dramatically, there by limiting the voltage that can pass through them. If your power problem suddenly appeared after your board was known to be working fine, it is probable the fuse is just "blown" and will return to normal. Polyfuses recover from the tripped state to near their normal value in a few minutes, but to take some hours to fully recover so leave it unpowered and check it again in a little while<ref>http://www.raspberrypi.org/phpBB3/viewtopic.php?f=28&t=24005&p=222549#p222543</ref>. If your power problem has been since the first time you plugged in your board, the fuse was probably bad when it arrived and should be returned to place you purchased it.<br />
<br />
If you prefer to make your own PSU - see: [[RPi_5V_PSU_construction| Power Supply construction - HowTo]]<br />
<br />
==Hardware versions/revisions==<br />
Several different boards have been found probably from different assembly lines, and the following tables try to help you identify your board for better troubleshooting.<br />
<br />
Look for the date of manufacturing printed with the year and week. In this example year (2012) and week (18th):[[File:Date_of_manufacturing.jpg|200px|thumb|right]]<br />
<br />
For what we can see for model B boards there are mainly two versions that differ on the type RAM used, Samsung (S) and Hynix (H).<br />
<br />
For '''Board ver'''. we used: <model><RAM Maker><production date> (ex.: BS1218 is "Model B, Samsung RAM, 18th week of 2012")<br />
<br />
Model A:<br />
{| border="1" class="wikitable"<br />
|-<br />
! Board<br />
ver.<br />
! RAM<br />
Chip <br />
! USB<br />
Chip <br />
! Front<br />
! Back<br />
|-<br />
| <br />
| <br />
| <br />
| <br />
| <br />
|}<br />
<br />
<br />
Model B:<br />
{| border="1" class="wikitable"<br />
|-<br />
! Board<br />
ver.<br />
! RAM<br />
Chip <br />
! USB<br />
Chip <br />
! Front<br />
! Back<br />
|-<br />
| BS12xx<br />
| Samsung<br />
| SMSC<br />
| [[File:RaspberryPi-Board_A-Front.JPG|200px|thumb|center]]<br />
| [[File:RaspberryPi-Board_A-Back.JPG|200px|thumb|center]]<br />
|-<br />
| BH12xx<br />
| Hynix<br />
| SMSC<br />
| [[File:RaspberryPi-Board_B-Front.JPG|200px|thumb|center]]<br />
| [[File:RaspberryPi-Board_B-Back.JPG|200px|thumb|center]]<br />
|}<br />
<br />
<big>See a '''complete list''' and user feedback here: [[RaspberryPi Boards]]</big><br />
<br />
=References= <br />
<references/><br />
<br />
{{Template:Raspberry Pi}}<br />
<br />
[[Category:RaspberryPi]]</div>Bgirardothttps://elinux.org/index.php?title=R-Pi_Troubleshooting&diff=195746R-Pi Troubleshooting2012-11-27T17:35:50Z<p>Bgirardot: Updated expected voltage across F3</p>
<hr />
<div>[[Category:RaspberryPi]]<br />
<br />
Back to the [[R-Pi Hub|Hub]].<br />
<br />
This page lists the most common problems and suggests some solutions.<br />
<br />
See [[RPi_Bugs]] for problems that are bugs.<br />
<br />
==Power / Start-up==<br />
A good power supply that will supply 5V is vital. There is more information about See [[#Troubleshooting_power_problems]].<br />
<br />
Note that the PI has no BIOS, so nothing will be displayed on screen unless the PI successfully boots!<br />
<br />
===Red power LED does not light, nothing on display===<br />
The power is not properly connected.<br />
<br />
===Red power LED is blinking===<br />
The red power LED should never blink, because it is hard-wired to the 3.3V power supply rail. If it is blinking, as one user has reported<ref>http://www.raspberrypi.org/phpBB3/viewtopic.php?f=28&t=7528</ref> it means the 5V power supply is dropping out. Use a different power supply.<br />
<br />
===Red power LED is on, green LED does not flash, nothing on display===<br />
''note; For technical reasons the green LED might light up very faintly, this is normal, but it doesn't mean it "burns". When flashing/blinking the green LED should light up as bright as the power LED.''<br />
*The Raspberry Pi cannot find a valid image on the SD card. Check card is inserted correctly. Check that you have correctly written a Raspberry Pi image to the card. Did you have admin rights when you used the SD-card writer software? Without it the software might go through the motions without actually doing anything! To check if the writing process did actually happen Insert the SD card into a Windows machine and you should see bootcode.bin, fixup.dat and start.elf amongst others. See also, [[RPi_VerifiedPeripherals#SD_cards|Known SD Cards]]. It is also possible that the image you are writing to the card is corrupt, as downloads do occasionally end up corrupted or truncated. You can check with the checksum utility if your download is correct.<br />
<br />
*Try with no cables connected except the USB power lead, and SD card inserted. You should see flashing of the OK light for ~20 seconds. If that helps, plug in cables one at a time to identify which is interfering with boot.<br />
<br />
*Confirm the USB cable is properly seated in the power slot. The red power LED does not necessarily mean it is fully connected.<br />
<br />
*The voltage is too low (below 5 V), try a different power supply and/or cable. The R-Pi needs a supply rated for 700 mA or more. Some supplies labeled as such cannot actually provide their rated current while maintaining 5V. See also, [[#Troubleshooting_power_problems]].<br />
<br />
*There may be a bug in the distributed version of bootcode.bin which causes problems with some sdcards. Try this version: https://github.com/raspberrypi/firmware/blob/234c19de7cbaaf4997671d61df20a05759066295/boot/bootcode.bin. Please let us know if it "fixes" your non-working SD card (or, more importantly, if it doesn't). This can also manifest itself as intermittent booting, or only booting when cold.<br />
<br />
*''(unlikely)'' hardware abuse, for example by connecting a 7 V supply to a 3v3 GPIO output pin<ref>http://www.raspberrypi.org/phpBB3/viewtopic.php?f=6&t=5096&p=76503#p76503</ref> or powering up the board after a solder splash shorts some traces<ref>http://www.raspberrypi.org/phpBB3/viewtopic.php?f=6&t=5096&p=76654#p76654</ref>.<br />
<br />
*Look at the SD card holder on the Raspberry Pi carefully. At first glance it may look fine but the contacts must be springy and they must protrude at least 2mm as measured from the lower edge of the holder to the top of the contact bulge. This happens due to the solder process and the type of holder used. Some of the solder residue falls into the contact cavity restricting the springiness and the height that the contact protrudes. You can fix this yourself but remember you can void your warranty. The contacts are delicate so be carefull. Insert a needle pin under the contact bulge and pull lightly up until the one end of the contact unclips. Clean the cavity where the contact unclipped from of any solder or other residue by blowing into the cavity. Clip the contact back into the cavity by lightly pushing it into the cavity. Do this for all the contacts. Look at these photos. [[Media:SDcardHolder.JPG]], [[Media:UnclipContact.JPG]], [[Media:UnclippedContact.JPG]]<br />
<br />
*If for whatever reason the main polyfuse F3 has been overheated previously it may happen that it hasn't completely recovered, in which case, if you turn the PI on, a considerable amount of energy from the power supply is lost in the fuse and doesn't reach the PI. Try if the polyfuse seems hot. For this problem too read [[#Troubleshooting_power_problems]].<br />
<br />
===Green LED blinks in a specific pattern===<br />
<br />
With recent firmware, according to [http://www.raspberrypi.org/phpBB3/viewtopic.php?f=28&t=8725#p103338 this forum post] the green light will blink in a specific pattern to indicate some types of errors:<br />
<br />
* 3 flashes: <tt>loader.bin</tt> not found<br />
* 4 flashes: <tt>loader.bin</tt> not launched<br />
* 5 flashes: <tt>start.elf</tt> not found<br />
* 6 flashes: <tt>start.elf</tt> not launched<br />
* 7 flashes: <tt>kernel.img</tt> not found<br />
<br />
Firmware since 20th October 2012 no longer requires loader.bin, and the flashes mean:<br />
<br />
* 3 flashes: <tt>start.elf</tt> not found<br />
* 4 flashes: <tt>start.elf</tt> not launched<br />
* 7 flashes: <tt>kernel.img</tt> not found<br />
<br />
If start.elf won't launch it may be corrupt.<br />
<br />
===Coloured splash screen===<br />
[[File:Debug-screen.jpg]]<br />
<br />
With recent firmware, a coloured splash screen is displayed after firmware (start.elf) is loaded. This should be replaced by linux console a second later.<br />
However if the coloured screen remains, it suggests the kernel.img file is failing to boot. Try replacing it with a known good one.<br />
<br />
Immediately after displaying the splash screen, the PI starts consuming a little more current, if the PI resets at that moment its an indication that your PSU isn't able to deliver the full current your PI requires, but dips its output voltage below a minimum when loaded with the full current the PI needs.<br />
<br />
===Kernel Panic on boot ===<br />
Text appears on screen, but then hangs with debug messages. This can be caused by USB devices such as keyboards. <br />
Try again with nothing in the USB.<br />
<br />
===Raspberry Pi shuts down (or restarts) soon after booting up===<br />
This is caused by a power supply producing too low a voltage. See [[#Troubleshooting_power_problems]].<br />
<br />
===Pi boots sometimes but not always===<br />
With a known good power supply and known good SD card, the R-Pi boots occasionally, but other times shows only a tiny green flicker from the "OK" LED and it fails to start, even with no USB devices and no Ethernet. This has been reported several times<ref>http://www.raspberrypi.org/forum/troubleshooting/will-not-boot-consistently-any-suggestions-before-i-send-my-pi-back</ref><br />
<ref>http://www.raspberrypi.org/forum/troubleshooting/booted-once-wont-work-again</ref><br />
<ref>http://www.raspberrypi.org/forum/troubleshooting/possible-fault-pi-boots-sometimes-but-not-always</ref> and remains an open issue. Low voltage or an improper SD card can cause it. Some SD cards will work until they warm up slightly, and then fail<ref>http://www.raspberrypi.org/phpBB3/viewtopic.php?f=6&t=5900&p=79008#p79008</ref>. When exposed to 21 C room temperature the warmest part of an uncased working R-Pi should be 41 C<ref>http://www.raspberrypi.org/phpBB3/viewtopic.php?f=6&t=5900&p=78973#p78973</ref>. The wiki has a [[RPi_VerifiedPeripherals#SD_cards | list of working SD cards]]. Buy from a reliable vendor as it has been [http://www.petapixel.com/2011/05/20/one-third-of-the-sandisk-memory-cards-on-earth-are-counterfeit/ claimed] that 1/3 of all "Sandisk" labelled memory cards are counterfeit.<br />
*It could be that the SD memory card is not making proper contact with the Raspberry Pi. Look at the SD card holder on the Raspberry Pi carefully. At first glance it may look fine but the contacts must be springy and they must protrude at least 2mm as measured fron the lower edge of the holder to the top of the contact bulge. This happens due to the solder process and the type of holder used. Some of the solder residue falls into the contact cavity restricting the springiness and the height that the contact protrudes. You can fix this yourself but remember you can void your warranty. The contacts are delicate so be carefull. Insert a needle pin under the contact bulge and pull lightly up until the one end of the contact unclips. Clean the cavity where the contact unclipped from of any solder or other residue by blowing into the cavity. Clip the contact back into the cavity by lightly pushing it into the cavity. Do this for all the contacts. Look at these photos. [[Media:SDcardHolder.JPG]], [[Media:UnclipContact.JPG]], [[Media:UnclippedContact.JPG]]<br />
<br />
==Keyboard / Mouse / Input Devices==<br />
<br />
===R-Pi does not respond to key presses / Keyboard randomly repeats key presses===<br />
''note:during entering the password most linux distro's wont show that you typed in anything (not even "*" characters) this is normal behaviour, try the keyboard while entering the user name!''<br />
<br />
This is most often caused by inadequate power. Use a good power supply and a good power cable. Some cheap cables that work with a cell phone, cannot fully power the R-Pi. Some USB devices require a lot of power: most will have a label showing the voltage and mA requirements. They should be 5v 100mA each max, any more than this they must be used with a powered USB hub. Try unplugging every USB device except the keyboard (you should also note that some keyboards have built in hubs and can try to draw 150mA (Pi can only handle 100mA per USB slot without a hub)).<br />
Also, use the latest software. Forum user MrEngman [http://www.raspberrypi.org/forum/absolute-beginners/using-a-powered-usb-port-to-power-a-rpi#p76485 reported] some keyboard repeats and wireless hangs until [http://www.raspberrypi.org/downloads upgrading] to the debian6-19-04-2012 kernel, which he reports stable with no problems even with a low [[R-Pi_Troubleshooting#Troubleshooting_power_problems | TP1-TP2 voltage]] of 4.65 - 4.68 volts.<br />
<br />
Some users have reported that their keyboards work fine on Arch linux, but on Debian distro's, their keyboards become erratic (repeats and/or skips key presses). One suggested remedy to this, which has some positive feedback, is to adjust the USB bus speed. To do this, you need to edit the cmdline.txt file, and add "dwc_otg.speed=1" (without quotes) to the end of the file (found in the /boot directory).<br />
<br />
Worst case scenario, some (advanced) keyboards, such as the Roccat Arvo, have kernel modules that need activating. If you have access to another keyboard temporarily, you will need to modprobe the relevent driver. Or if this is not possible, you can rebuild the kernel (instructions available on the wiki page) with the modules installed. (to find the drivers for keyboards etc, you need to find "Device Drivers -> hid Devices".)<br />
<br />
===Keyboard / Mouse interferes with USB WiFi device===<br />
Connecting a keyboard and/or mouse while a USB WiFi device is connected, may cause one or both devices to malfunction. On April 30 2012, there was a bugfix<ref>https://github.com/raspberrypi/linux/commit/e09244e60881148431ecd016ccc42f1fa0678556</ref> relating to USB sharing between high-speed (eg. WiFi) and full/low-speed devices (eg. keyboard/mouse). User spennig<ref>http://www.raspberrypi.org/forum/troubleshooting/usb-power-hub-wifi/page-4#p74609</ref><ref>http://www.raspberrypi.org/forum/troubleshooting/success-with-kb-mouse-wifi?value=3761&type=8&include=1&search=1</ref> reports this patch did not fix the Mouse/WiFi conflict. On 2012-05-12, user spennig was pleased to confirm that wifi was working with a USB keyboard and mouse, as long as the Raspberry Pi had a good PSU and a powered hub. Even so, some experimentation was needed, e.g. USB WiFi connected to the device, and the keyboard and mouse connected to the powered hub. Some experimentation may be necessary to find a working combination; however a good power supply is essential.<br />
<br />
===Wireless Keyboard trouble===<br />
Some wireless keyboards, for example the Microsoft Wireless Keyboard 800 are reported to fail<ref>http://www.raspberrypi.org/forum/troubleshooting/display-and-keyboard-issues-on-a-real-pi#p74816</ref> even though the current drawn by the wireless adaptor is within the R-Pi USB spec limit of 100 mA. This may be a software driver problem.<br />
<br />
===Re-mapping the keyboard with Debian Squeeze===<br />
If different letters appear on-screen from that which you typed, you need to reconfigure you keyboard settings. In Debian, from a command line type:<br />
sudo dpkg-reconfigure keyboard-configuration<br />
Follow the prompts. Then restart your RasPi.<br />'''Or:'''<br /> From the command line type:<br />
sudo nano /etc/default/keyboard<br />
Then find where it says <blockquote>XKBLAYOUT=”gb”</blockquote>and change the gb to the two letter code for your country. [http://www.raspberrypi.org/phpBB3/viewtopic.php?p=78325#p78325]<br />
<br />
===Slow keyboard mapping=== <br />
If you have remapped your keyboard and get a very long delay during the keyboard mapping at startup, type the following once on the command line after you have logged in:<br />
sudo setupcon<br />
<br />
===No USB device works, with known good PS, SD card, KB=== <br />
There has been more than one report<ref>http://www.raspberrypi.org/phpBB3/viewtopic.php?f=28&t=7533</ref><ref>http://www.raspberrypi.org/phpBB3/viewtopic.php?t=5766#p77576</ref><ref>http://www.raspberrypi.org/phpBB3/viewtopic.php?t=5766#p80995</ref> of a R-Pi booting but not getting USB input, using a known-good power supply, SD card, and keyboard. The more common cause for no USB devices working is [[#Troubleshooting_power_problems|low power supply voltage]] from bad PSU, cable, or USB hub, but in this case the problem was no clock signal present at the LAN9512 USB/Ethernet chip "IC3", and the solution was to reflow the solder on the 25 MHz crystal "X1" on the bottom side of the board.<br />
Or return the board for a replacement, but before making this conclusion, confirm known good peripherals. A significant number of <br />
[[RPi_VerifiedPeripherals#USB_Keyboards| USB keyboards]] are not compatible with R-Pi. As of June 1 2012, Eben reported<ref>http://www.raspberrypi.org/phpBB3/viewtopic.php?f=28&t=6822&p=89589&hilit=eben#p89513</ref> that only about 1 in 1000 shipped R-Pi boards have been found to have a hardware fault of any kind.<br />
<br />
== Updating firmware ==<br />
=== Check your firmware version ===<br />
Using the latest firmware version may help various problems with SD card and display compatibility. Check the kernel version with:<br />
uname -a<br />
Linux RPi 3.1.19 #1 PREEMPT Fri Jun 1 14:16:38 CEST 2012 armv6l GNU/Linux<br />
<br />
And the GPU firmware with:<br />
/opt/vc/bin/vcgencmd version<br />
May 31 2012 13:35:03<br />
Copyright (c) 2012 Broadcom<br />
version 317494 (release)<br />
<br />
=== Get the latest firmware version ===<br />
The GPU firmware and kernel can be updated with [https://github.com/Hexxeh/rpi-update Hexxeh's rpi-update tool].<br />
<br />
However this requires the Pi to be successfully booted. With sdcard problems, you may not get that far, so can try a manual udpate.<br />
If you have a Linux machine, rpi-update can be run on that in an offline mode, and will update your sdcard from the Linux machine.<br />
<br />
Otherwise, on a Windows computer, you will see the "/boot" partition appear as the contents of SD card. <br />
You can download the latest GPU firmware version [https://github.com/raspberrypi/firmware/blob/master/boot/start.elf here].<br />
Click on '''view raw''', then save it, and put the new start.elf file on the sdcard replacing the existing one. Similarly, the latest kernel is [https://github.com/raspberrypi/firmware/tree/master/boot/kernel.img here].<br />
After updating these files you should be able to boot. You still need to run rpi-update to update the kernel modules (in /lib/modules) and the GPU libraries (in /opt/vc).<br />
<br />
=== Choosing the right ARM/GPU memory split ===<br />
There is a choice of how the 256M/512M of RAM is divided between the ARM and GPU:<br />
gpu_mem=16 : 16M GPU, 240M/496M ARM split : Maximum ARM memory. Good for ARM desktop use. No accelerated video or 3D possible.<br />
gpu_mem=64 : 64M GPU, 192M/448M ARM split : Reasonable ARM memory. Simple video (omxplayer) or 3D (quake) is possible. This is the default.<br />
gpu_mem=128 : 128M GPU, 128M/384M ARM split : Use this for heavy 3D work, or 3D plus video. Needed for XBMC.<br />
<br />
To switch, edit the gpu_mem= setting in your config.txt and reboot.<br />
<br />
Note: other amounts are also possible, but setting gpu_mem=32 is usually the wrong choice. gpu_mem=16 is almost always a better choice.<br />
<br />
Also note that before the release of the 51MB PI a different method was used based on splitting the 256MB RAM in a part for the CPU and GPU. As this noting system was causing trouble if the amount of RAM was not always the same. the above new method was adapted.<br />
<br />
Make sure your editor doesn't change the first letter of the line into an uppercase letter, as some editors do. The entry is case sensitive.<br />
<br />
== SD cards ==<br />
<br />
* If you have problems, check you have latest firmware version (described above)<br />
* Some SD cards do not work on the R-Pi, so check the [[RPi_VerifiedPeripherals#SD_cards|list of known SD cards]].<br />
* If you are having problems setting up your SD card you might want to start by erasing it completely - especially if it has been used elsewhere and still contains data / partitions.<br />
** Windows and Mac users can download a formatting tool from the SD Association: https://www.sdcard.org/downloads/formatter_3/<br />
* Reformatting cards is also easy to do in a digital camera.<br />
* After writing the image to the SD card, verify that you can see the boot partition when you insert the SD card into your computer. The partition should contain a number of files, including ''start.elf'' and ''kernel.img''. If you do not see these files on the SD card, you have made an error writing the image file.<br />
* If you are manually preparing your SD card on Linux or Mac OS using the ''dd'' command, this operation will completely erase any existing data and partitions. Make sure you write to the whole card (e.g. <tt>/dev/sdd</tt>) and not to an existing partition (e.g. <tt>/dev/sdd1</tt>).<br />
* If you have an sdcard that doesn't work with latest firmware, head over [http://www.raspberrypi.org/phpBB3/viewtopic.php?f=63&t=6093 here].<br />
* If you put the SD card into your PC in an attempt to write the R-Pi operating system onto it, and the PC tells you the card is write-protected, even with the write-protect tab in the correct, forward position, then you may have a faulty SD-card rewriter. There's a common fault with many SD-card rewriters - The write-protect tab is detected by a very thin, narrow metal strip, that is part of a switch. When the card is inserted, the write-protect tab is supposed to push the strip and make/break the contact, as needed. Unfortunately, these strips have a habit of getting stuck, because they are mounted in a thin plastic channel, and only need to be deformed slightly sideways to get jammed.<br />
Luckily, if you have this problem, most built-in card readers are easy to pull apart and repair; some users have even reported succesfully unjamming the switch with a blast of compressed air from a can into the SD-card slot without having to dismantle anything.<br />
You may also be able to temporarily get round the problem by putting the write-protect tab in a half-way position - this pushes on a different part of the strip and may break the contact - it's worth trying a few, slightly different positions. You could also use a USB-SD card adaptor, which are cheap to buy.<br />
<br />
==Networking==<br />
<br />
===Ethernet connection is lost when a USB device is plugged in===<br />
This is often caused by inadequate power. Use a good power supply and a good power cable. Some cheap cables that work with a cell phone, cannot fully power the R-Pi. Some USB devices require a lot of power (>100 mA), so they must be used with a powered USB hub. Some cheap USB hubs suck power from the Raspberry Pi even if a USB power supply is connected. (More often than not, however, the reverse is true with cheap hubs—the Pi draws just enough power backwards from the powered hub to unsuccessfully attempt booting.)<br />
<br />
There is an ongoing issue with the Ethernet connection being lost when low-speed devices, such as mice or keyboards are connected via a powered USB hub. The simplest way to solve this is to connect your mouse and keyboard directly into the 2 USB ports on the R-Pi (assuming they draw less than 100 mA apiece).<br />
<br />
===Ethernet connects at 10M instead of 100M===<br />
The LED in the corner of the board labelled "10M" is mislabeled. When that LED is on, the R-Pi is actually connected at 100 Mbps. You can confirm the true transfer rate using a network benchmark such as iperf. You can also read the current network speed with<br />
cat /sys/class/net/eth0/speed<br />
<br />
===Cannot ssh in to Pi===<br />
<br />
In the Debian image, ssh is disabled by default. Boot commands are taken from /boot/boot.rc if that file present. There is an example file named '''boot_enable_ssh.rc''' that enables ssh. So:<br />
<br />
sudo mv /boot/boot_enable_ssh.rc /boot/boot.rc<br />
<br />
and reboot should enable ssh. (password as below)<br />
<br />
===Network/USB chip gets too hot to touch===<br />
<br />
This is normal. In open air at 24 C, the LAN9512 Ethernet/USB chip reaches about 52 C after some time. This is too hot to touch for more than a few seconds, but it is not unusually hot for the chip.<br />
<br />
The <br />
[http://www.smsc.com/media/Downloads_Public/Data_Sheets/9512.pdf LAN9512 data sheet] in Table 4.1 on p.40 says it comes in two versions, rated for operation at an ambient temperature in still air (Ta) of 70 C (commercial) or 85 C (industrial). It uses 763 mW at 3.3V with maximum traffic on 100baseT and both USB ports (Table 4.3.4, p. 42).<br />
<br />
There is a study of RasPi heat profiles by "Remy" at [http://www.geektopia.es/es/technology/2012/06/22/articulos/se-calienta-el-ordenador-raspberry-pi-estudio-de-sus-temperaturas-en-funcionamiento.html ¿Se calienta el ordenador Raspberry Pi? Estudio de sus temperaturas en funcionamiento] (''Is the Raspberry Pi computer getting hot? A study of its operational temperature.'') The Spanish article has numerous color temperature images of RasPi in various operational modes, with the highest LAN9512 case temperature measured as 64.5 C.<br />
<br />
===Networking no longer works when changing SD card between two Raspberry Pis===<br />
<br />
In some distributions, /etc/udev/rules.d/70-persistent-net.rules remembers which MAC address is associated with eth0, so each new device will be assigned as a different interface (eth1, eth2, etc.) due to the different MAC addresses. Editing /etc/udev/rules.d/70-persistent-net.rules to remove the invalid rules and rebooting may help fix the problem.<br />
<br />
===Crashes occur with high network load===<br />
<br />
The USB driver allocates memory from the kernel, and when traffic is very high (e.g. when using torrents/newsgroup downloads) this memory can be exhausted causing crashes/hangs. You should have a line like:<br />
<br />
vm.min_free_kbytes = 8192<br />
<br />
in /etc/sysctl.conf. Try increasing that number to 16384 (or higher). If that doesn't work, try adding to /boot/cmdline.txt<br />
<br />
smsc95xx.turbo_mode=N<br />
<br />
which will reduce network throughput, but has improved stability issues for some.<br />
<br />
===Network connection fails when a Graphical User Interface is being used===<br />
<br />
The network connection may fail when the command startx is used to enter a Graphical User Interface. This is caused by a bug in the USB driver related to certain types of USB mouse.<br />
<br />
As of 1 September 2012, this fault is fixed in the latest firmware. To load the latest firmware, see<br />
[http://elinux.org/R-Pi_Troubleshooting#Updating_firmware http://elinux.org/R-Pi_Troubleshooting#Updating_firmware]<br />
<br />
==Passwords==<br />
===I do not know the password to login===<br />
Please check the page [http://www.raspberrypi.org/downloads http://www.raspberrypi.org/downloads] for the correct username and password for each image.<br />
<br />
Here are the most common username/password combinations:<br />
*Debian after Feb 2012: pi/raspberry<br />
*Debian 17 Feb 2012: pi/suse<br />
*Arch: root/root<br />
*Bodhi: pi/bodhilinux<br />
<br />
===Some programs refuse to accept my password===<br />
While using Debian, some programs may ask for your password but refuse to accept a valid password.<br />
<br />
This is a fault in old Debian images previous to September 2012. If you are using an image with this fault, upgrade to a more modern image or enter the following command on the command line.<br />
gconftool-2 --type bool --set /apps/gksu/sudo-mode true<br />
Please enter this command carefully, the spaces are important. The command should be accepted without any response or errors.<br />
<br />
===I don't know the root password===<br />
<br />
There is no root password set by default on Debian. You are expected to do everything through sudo. You can set one with "sudo passwd root" - just make sure you know what you are doing with a root account.<br />
<br />
==Sound==<br />
===Sound does not work with an HDMI monitor===<br />
This is caused by some computer monitors which select DVI mode even if an HDMI cable is connected. This fix may be necessary even if other HDMI devices work perfectly on the same monitor (or TV)!<br />
<br />
Edit the configuration file - see the instructions at [[R-Pi_ConfigurationFile]].<br />
<br />
Add the following line to the configuration file:<br />
hdmi_drive=2<br />
<br />
This will force it to select HDMI mode.<br />
<br />
<br />
'''More reasons why sound does not work with an HDMI monitor'''<br />
<br />
With an HDMI connection it might be possible to hear:<br />
./hello_audio.bin 1<br />
but not:<br />
aplay /usr/share/sounds/alsa/Front_Center.wav<br />
<br />
Firstly, it seems that some HD TVs mute audible sound output when there is no digital input, and slowly fade the sound up and down at the start and end of digital input. This means that short duration sounds will not be heard. A work around is to play longer duration wav files.<br />
<br />
Secondly, it seems that some HD TVs mute audible sound output when there is only one channel of digital input. So, as the file Front_Center.wav is mono, it might not be heard. ALSA aplay uses the file information header to configure its digital output. And the aplay -c 2 option does not over-ride the settings aplay picks up from the file information header. So, if your HD TV doesn't accept just one channel of digital input, you cannot use aplay to hear a mono wav file. However, with the command speaker-test, the -c2 option does work, and sets 2 channels in the digital stream. So speaker-test can be used to hear the file Front_Center.wav in either the left or right speaker using the -s option 1 or 2. <br />
For example<br />
Speaker-test -c 2 -s 1 -t wav -W /usr/share/sounds/alsa -w Front_Center.wav<br />
should be heard on the left speaker. But note that the command speaker-test seems only to like mono wav files, and seems not to play stereo wav files.<br />
<br />
The command aplay plays 2 channel stereo wav files in stereo sound without problem (provided they last longer than the time it takes the TV to unmute and remute). A helpful example I found is the stereo file LRMonoPhase4.wav at the Kozco web site [http://www.kozco.com/tech/soundtests.html]<br />
<br />
===Sound does not work at all, or in some applications===<br />
In Debian Squeeze, sound is disabled by default because the ALSA sound driver is still "alpha" (not fully tested) on the R-Pi. To try out sound, from the command prompt ''before'' "startx", type<br />
<br />
sudo apt-get install alsa-utils<br />
sudo modprobe snd_bcm2835<br />
<br />
On Debian Wheezy, snd_bm2835 is enabled, by default, do that step is not necessary. Next try:<br />
<br />
sudo aplay /usr/share/sounds/alsa/Front_Center.wav<br />
<br />
By default output will be automatic (hdmi if hdmi supports audio, otherwise analogue). You can force it with:<br />
<br />
sudo amixer cset numid=3 <n><br />
<br />
where n is 0=auto, 1=headphones, 2=hdmi.<br />
<br />
With recent firmware, you can build hello_audio with:<br />
cd /opt/vc/src/hello_pi/<br />
./rebuild.sh<br />
cd hello_audio<br />
<br />
With older firmware<br />
cd /opt/vc/src/hello_pi/hello_audio<br />
make<br />
<br />
to test analogue output:<br />
./hello_audio.bin<br />
and:<br />
./hello_audio.bin 1<br />
to test HDMI.<br />
<br />
Also note that you may have to add your user to the 'audio' group to get permission to access the sound card.<br />
<br />
==Display==<br />
===Startx fails to start===<br />
If you just get errors instead of a desktop when typing<br />
startx<br />
you may be out of storage space on the SD card. By default there are only a few hundred MB free in the 2 GB main partition, which can quickly fill up if you download files. Make sure there is some space free (gparted can expand a partition, if the SD card is > 2GB). Also, installing some software may incorrectly create or modify a .Xauthority file in your home directory, causing startx to fail, according to [http://www.raspberrypi.org/forum/troubleshooting/startx-fails-worked-yesterday this thread]. Temporarily renaming, moving, or deleting that file may fix the problem.<br />
<br />
===Screen is the wrong color===<br />
Check and see if the DVI cable is screwed in properly. If that doesn't work then try [[#Interference_visible_on_a_HDMI_or_DVI_monitor|this]] section.<br />
<br />
===Video does not play or plays very slowly===<br />
The only hardware-accelerated video player is in the [http://www.raspberrypi.org/forum/general-discussion/openelec-meets-raspberry-pi-part-1-xbmc XBMC distribution] and its command line variant [[omxplayer]]. H264 is the only hardware-accelerated codec, for playback. No hardware encoding is supported. Additional codecs were not purchased as licensing fees would have increased the R-Pi's price.<br />
<br />
===Can only get 800x480 resolution in LXDE (Arch linux)===<br />
Known issue with distro package as of 17th April 2012 - there's some missing boot config information. Creating a suitable cmdline.txt fixes it - type the following at the Raspberry Pi command line:<br />
<br />
<pre><br />
sudo echo "dwc_otg.lpm_enable=0 console=ttyAMA0,115200 kgdboc=ttyAMA0,115200 root=/dev/mmcblk0p2 rootfstype=ext3 rootwait" >/boot/cmdline.txt<br />
</pre><br />
<br />
===Big black borders around small image on HD monitors===<br />
<br />
Out of the box, R-Pi graphics don't necessarily fill the whole screen. This is due to something called "Underscan", and it can be fixed easily.<br />
<br />
Note: the best solution is to disable overscan in display menu options (it may be called "just scan", "screen fit", "HD size", "full pixel", "unscaled", "dot by dot", "native" or "1:1"), then use the disable_overscan=1 option.<br />
<br />
Edit the configuration file, see the instructions at [[R-Pi_ConfigurationFile]].<br />
<br />
Add the following lines to the configuration file...<br />
<br />
If your display has no overscan:<br />
<br />
<pre><br />
<br />
disable_overscan=1<br />
<br />
</pre><br />
<br />
or if your display has some overscan:<br />
<br />
<pre><br />
<br />
overscan_left=-20<br />
<br />
overscan_right=-20<br />
<br />
overscan_top=-20<br />
<br />
overscan_bottom=-20<br />
<br />
</pre><br />
<br />
Making the R-Pi graphics fill the screen is a matter of experimenting with the numbers you put in the config.txt file. Change the numbers – try jumps of 5 or 10 at a time. Bigger negative numbers reduce the black borders (so -40 means less black border than -20). The numbers do not all have to be the same; you can use this feature to centre the display on the screen.<br />
<br />
===Writing spills off the screen on HD monitors===<br />
<br />
Out of the box, R-Pi graphics may be larger than the 1080p (ie Full HD) screen. This is due to something called "Overscan", and it can be fixed easily by creating a simple text file on the R-Pi SD card by using Notepad on your PC.<br />
<br />
Follow the instructions in the section "Big black borders around small image on HD monitors", but use positive numbers for the overscan settings, for example<br />
<pre><br />
<br />
overscan_left=20<br />
<br />
overscan_right=20<br />
<br />
overscan_top=20<br />
<br />
overscan_bottom=20<br />
<br />
</pre><br />
<br />
===Interference visible on a HDMI or DVI monitor===<br />
This may be caused by loss of signal on long video cables. The signal level may be increased by changing a configuration parameter.<br />
<br />
[[File:RPi_HDMI_interference.jpg|600px]]<br />
<br />
Edit the configuration file, see the instructions at [[R-Pi_ConfigurationFile]].<br />
<br />
Add the following line to the configuration file<br />
config_hdmi_boost=4<br />
<br />
You may experiment with different values of config_hdmi_boost. Value 1 is used for very short cables, value 7 is used for very long cables. At your own risk, you can go up to 11, but risk frying a sensitive monitor. <br />
<br />
Note that various adapters, such as HDMI-to-DVI, can also cause power loss and therefore require high values of config_hdmi_boost even with short cables.<br />
<br />
This option can also help when there is no display output at all, the display periodically blanks, or colours are wrong/inverted.<br />
<br />
This symptom can also be caused by RasPi +5V (measured from TP1 to TP2) falling too low. See [[#Troubleshooting_power_problems|Troubleshooting Power Problems]].<br />
<br />
===No HDMI output at all===<br />
First make sure the display is powered on and switched to the right input before booting Pi.<br />
<br />
If you have the [http://www.raspberrypi.org/archives/1435 Wheezy] image (recommended) then try<br />
hdmi_safe=1<br />
<br />
Otherwise, try adding the following line to the configuration file (similar to interference case above)<br />
config_hdmi_boost=4<br />
<br />
Your monitor/cable may not be asserting the hotplug signal. You can override this with:<br />
hdmi_force_hotplug=1<br />
<br />
Also [http://www.raspberrypi.org/phpBB3/viewtopic.php?f=28&t=7513 try] the following video options:<br />
hdmi_group=2<br />
hdmi_mode=4<br />
which resolved an issue with DVI monitor reporting "input signal out of range"<br />
<br />
As a last resort, try deleting (rename to keep backup) config.txt from the SD card.<br />
<br />
Also check that the RasPi +5V voltage (measured from TP1 to TP2) is in the correct range. One user found that his DVI-D monitor blanked out when +5V was too low. See [[#Troubleshooting_power_problems|Troubleshooting Power Problems]].<br />
<br />
Here's a rare cause: A standard HDMI cable has five individual ground wires plus a shield. Some cheap HDMI cables do not implement the individual grounds and just have a common foil shield that's connected to the HDMI plug shells at both ends. This works OK in most HDMI applications since most HDMI sources (like RasPi) and most monitors connect the shells to circuit ground. However, some HDMI or DVI monitors may requires individual ground lines. You can tell if an HDMI cable implements the individual grounds by checking for continuity using an Ohmmeter or multimeter. You can find the HDMI pinout for full-size connectors at [http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/HDMI Wikipedia].<br />
<br />
===Composite displays no image===<br />
The output display will default to HDMI if a HDMI display is connected, and composite if not. Make sure there isn't a HDMI cable connected when you want to use composite output.<br />
<br />
Also, check that your TV is set to the correct input, normally marked "AV". If your TV has multiple AV inputs, try all of the inputs, normally by pressing a button marked "AV" or "Input" or "Source" or "->O" on the remote control.<br />
<br />
===Composite displays only black and white image===<br />
The composite display defaults to NTSC (American) output. Most TVs will show an image with that, but older PAL (European) televisions may display only back and white or no image. To fix this:<br />
<br />
Edit the configuration file, see the instructions at [[R-Pi_ConfigurationFile]].<br />
<br />
Add the following line to the configuration file<br />
sdtv_mode=2<br />
<br />
(You can try other values: 0 is NTSC, 1 is Japanese NTSC, 2 is PAL, 3 is Brazilian PAL)<br />
<br />
===HDMI -> VGA adapters===<br />
Some good information can be found here:<br />
* [[RPi_VerifiedPeripherals#HDMI-.3EVGA_converter_boxes]]<br />
* [http://www.raspberrypi.org/phpBB3/viewtopic.php?f=28&t=9819 (RPi forum) Serious HDMI Problems. What's that smell? Burning Raspberry!]<br />
<br />
A commonly used adapter from Ebay: gallery with detailed images & steps of a modification to use external power source: [http://imgur.com/a/sLogs/all HERE] --''by [[User:Pinoccio|Pinoccio]]''<br />
<br />
==GPIO==<br />
Remember that the GPIO pins are 3.3V logic level only, and are <strong>NOT</strong> 5V tolerant.<br />
<br />
If you momentarily shorted the two end GPIO pins together (+3.3V and +5V), or a supply pin to ground, and the Pi appears to be dead, don't panic. The input polyfuse may have tripped. It is self-resetting after it cools down and the polymer re-crystallizes, which can take several hours. Set the Pi aside and try again later.<br />
<br />
The GPIO pins connect directly into the core of the ARM processer, and are static-sensitive, so you should avoid touching the pins wherever possible. If you are carrying a static charge, for example by taking off an acrylic pullover, or walking across a nylon carpet, touching the GPIO pins could destroy your R-Pi, so always earth yourself before touching the pins or anything connected to them.<br />
<br />
==General==<br />
===The time is incorrect===<br />
If the clock is off by a series of hours, in the command line type:<br />
sudo dpkg-reconfigure tzdata<br />
<br />
The R-Pi has no real-time clock, so unless it can access a timeserver over the network at boot, or time is manually entered by the user, the time/date will restart counting from the last logged time in the previous session.<br />
<br />
===A part broke off===<br />
<br />
The silver cylinder near the microUSB power input is a 220 uF capacitor ("C6" on schematic). It sticks up and due to the small surface-mount pads, it is easy to break off; several people have done so. This is a power supply filter capacitor which reduces any noise and spikes on the input +5V power. If you like, you can solder it back on, or just leave it off. If you do solder it back on, take care to observe the correct polarity with the black stripe towards the board edge. This part, C6 is a "just in case" component which is good design practice to include, but [http://www.raspberrypi.org/phpBB3/viewtopic.php?f=2&t=4926| as it turns out] most power supplies still work OK without this part installed. This part is also [http://elinux.org/RPi_Hardware#Capacitor_C6 discussed here].<br />
<br />
===Unable to install new software===<br />
When trying to install a software package (using the command sudo apt-get install xxxx) you may see the error<br />
Package yyyy is not available<br />
This means that your software list is out of date. Before attempting to install software, you should always make sure that you are using the latest software list by using the command<br />
sudo apt-get update<br />
<br />
==Troubleshooting power problems==<br />
<br />
If you think you have a problem with your power supply, it is a good idea to check the actual voltage<br />
on the Raspberry Pi circuit board. Two test points labelled TP1 and TP2 are provided on the circuit board<br />
to facilitate voltage measurements.<br />
<br />
Use a multimeter which is set to the range 20 volts DC (or 20v =). You should see a voltage between 4.75 and 5.25 volts. Anything outside this range indicates that you have a problem with your power supply or your power cable.<br />
<br />
If you have not used a multimeter before, see these [[http://www.sparkfun.com/tutorials/202 basic instructions]]<br />
<br />
Note: Even if the multimeter shows the correct voltage, you may have some power supply problems. A multimeter only displays the average voltage. If there are very short-lived dips or spikes in the voltage, these will not be shown by the multimeter. It is best to measure voltage when Pi is busy.<br />
<br />
If your voltage is low, it could be:<br />
* The power supply produces too low a voltage<br />
* The power supply cannot supply enough current, which results in a voltage drop. Make sure Power supply is labelled as at least 700mA. (Some cheap power supplies don't deliver what is labelled).<br />
* The Micro USB power cable is low quality. Some Micro USB cables have very thin conductors, resulting in enough voltage drop for RasPi to fail even if the power supply itself is fine. For details, see [[On_the_RPi_usb_power_cable]].<br />
* Attached USB devices want too much power. The Pi is only designed for up to 100mA USB devices. A USB device wanting more that that will cause a voltage drop.<br />
* The F3 Polyfuse could be blown or bad, see below for how to test.<br />
Note: keyboards with LCD displays, built in USB hubs, backlights, etc are likely to be problematic. Try to use a basic one. Wifi dongles are also unlikely to work when directly connected. Connect high powered USB devices to a powered USB hub.<br />
<br />
Try booting without HDMI, ethernet or USB deviced plugged in, and see if the voltage improves.<br />
See also: [[RPi_Hardware#Power_Supply_Problems| Power Supply Problems]]<br />
<br />
[[File:RPI_Test_Points.JPG|400px]] [[File:Voltmeter.JPG|250px]]<br />
<br />
<br />
'''How to test the F3 polyfuse<ref>http://www.raspberrypi.org/phpBB3/viewtopic.php?f=26&t=22318</ref>'''<br />
<br />
# Remove all the things plugged into your Raspberry Pi, including SD card.<br />
# Locate the TP2 test point on the top of the board.<br />
# Turn your board over and find the TP2 test point on the bottom of the board. One lead of your multi-meter will always be on the TP2 point on the bottom of the board for all tests.<br />
# Plug your power supply into the micro usb port and power your board.<br />
# Place one lead of your multi-meter on the TP2 point on the bottom of the board and one lead on the side of the F3 fuse closest to the edge of the board. Note the voltage. This is the voltage coming into your RPi from your power supply.<br />
# Keeping one lead on TP2, move the other lead to the side of F3 closest to the SD card slot. This is the voltage coming out of the F3 fuse.<br />
<br />
[[File:F3-testing.jpg|none|frame|Multi-meter lead placement for testing the Raspberry Pi F3 Polyfuse]]<br />
<br />
If the voltage is different by more than about 0.3v you probably have an issue with the F3 fuse<ref>http://www.raspberrypi.org/phpBB3/viewtopic.php?f=28&t=24005&p=222526#p222526</ref>.<br />
<br />
When polyfuses "blow" their resistance increases dramatically, there by limiting the voltage that can pass through them. If your power problem suddenly appeared after your board was known to be working fine, it is probable the fuse is just "blown" and will return to normal. It can take 24 hours for the resistance to go back down to normal so leave it unpowered and check it again in 24 hours. If your power problem has been since the first time you plugged in your board, the fuse was probably bad when it arrived and should be returned to place you purchased it.<br />
<br />
If you prefer to make your own PSU - see: [[RPi_5V_PSU_construction| Power Supply construction - HowTo]]<br />
<br />
==Hardware versions/revisions==<br />
Several different boards have been found probably from different assembly lines, and the following tables try to help you identify your board for better troubleshooting.<br />
<br />
Look for the date of manufacturing printed with the year and week. In this example year (2012) and week (18th):[[File:Date_of_manufacturing.jpg|200px|thumb|right]]<br />
<br />
For what we can see for model B boards there are mainly two versions that differ on the type RAM used, Samsung (S) and Hynix (H).<br />
<br />
For '''Board ver'''. we used: <model><RAM Maker><production date> (ex.: BS1218 is "Model B, Samsung RAM, 18th week of 2012")<br />
<br />
Model A:<br />
{| border="1" class="wikitable"<br />
|-<br />
! Board<br />
ver.<br />
! RAM<br />
Chip <br />
! USB<br />
Chip <br />
! Front<br />
! Back<br />
|-<br />
| <br />
| <br />
| <br />
| <br />
| <br />
|}<br />
<br />
<br />
Model B:<br />
{| border="1" class="wikitable"<br />
|-<br />
! Board<br />
ver.<br />
! RAM<br />
Chip <br />
! USB<br />
Chip <br />
! Front<br />
! Back<br />
|-<br />
| BS12xx<br />
| Samsung<br />
| SMSC<br />
| [[File:RaspberryPi-Board_A-Front.JPG|200px|thumb|center]]<br />
| [[File:RaspberryPi-Board_A-Back.JPG|200px|thumb|center]]<br />
|-<br />
| BH12xx<br />
| Hynix<br />
| SMSC<br />
| [[File:RaspberryPi-Board_B-Front.JPG|200px|thumb|center]]<br />
| [[File:RaspberryPi-Board_B-Back.JPG|200px|thumb|center]]<br />
|}<br />
<br />
<big>See a '''complete list''' and user feedback here: [[RaspberryPi Boards]]</big><br />
<br />
=References= <br />
<references/><br />
<br />
{{Template:Raspberry Pi}}<br />
<br />
[[Category:RaspberryPi]]</div>Bgirardothttps://elinux.org/index.php?title=R-Pi_Troubleshooting&diff=195740R-Pi Troubleshooting2012-11-27T17:16:17Z<p>Bgirardot: Updated expected voltage across F3 and added reference</p>
<hr />
<div>[[Category:RaspberryPi]]<br />
<br />
Back to the [[R-Pi Hub|Hub]].<br />
<br />
This page lists the most common problems and suggests some solutions.<br />
<br />
See [[RPi_Bugs]] for problems that are bugs.<br />
<br />
==Power / Start-up==<br />
A good power supply that will supply 5V is vital. There is more information about See [[#Troubleshooting_power_problems]].<br />
<br />
Note that the PI has no BIOS, so nothing will be displayed on screen unless the PI successfully boots!<br />
<br />
===Red power LED does not light, nothing on display===<br />
The power is not properly connected.<br />
<br />
===Red power LED is blinking===<br />
The red power LED should never blink, because it is hard-wired to the 3.3V power supply rail. If it is blinking, as one user has reported<ref>http://www.raspberrypi.org/phpBB3/viewtopic.php?f=28&t=7528</ref> it means the 5V power supply is dropping out. Use a different power supply.<br />
<br />
===Red power LED is on, green LED does not flash, nothing on display===<br />
''note; For technical reasons the green LED might light up very faintly, this is normal, but it doesn't mean it "burns". When flashing/blinking the green LED should light up as bright as the power LED.''<br />
*The Raspberry Pi cannot find a valid image on the SD card. Check card is inserted correctly. Check that you have correctly written a Raspberry Pi image to the card. Did you have admin rights when you used the SD-card writer software? Without it the software might go through the motions without actually doing anything! To check if the writing process did actually happen Insert the SD card into a Windows machine and you should see bootcode.bin, fixup.dat and start.elf amongst others. See also, [[RPi_VerifiedPeripherals#SD_cards|Known SD Cards]]. It is also possible that the image you are writing to the card is corrupt, as downloads do occasionally end up corrupted or truncated. You can check with the checksum utility if your download is correct.<br />
<br />
*Try with no cables connected except the USB power lead, and SD card inserted. You should see flashing of the OK light for ~20 seconds. If that helps, plug in cables one at a time to identify which is interfering with boot.<br />
<br />
*Confirm the USB cable is properly seated in the power slot. The red power LED does not necessarily mean it is fully connected.<br />
<br />
*The voltage is too low (below 5 V), try a different power supply and/or cable. The R-Pi needs a supply rated for 700 mA or more. Some supplies labeled as such cannot actually provide their rated current while maintaining 5V. See also, [[#Troubleshooting_power_problems]].<br />
<br />
*There may be a bug in the distributed version of bootcode.bin which causes problems with some sdcards. Try this version: https://github.com/raspberrypi/firmware/blob/234c19de7cbaaf4997671d61df20a05759066295/boot/bootcode.bin. Please let us know if it "fixes" your non-working SD card (or, more importantly, if it doesn't). This can also manifest itself as intermittent booting, or only booting when cold.<br />
<br />
*''(unlikely)'' hardware abuse, for example by connecting a 7 V supply to a 3v3 GPIO output pin<ref>http://www.raspberrypi.org/phpBB3/viewtopic.php?f=6&t=5096&p=76503#p76503</ref> or powering up the board after a solder splash shorts some traces<ref>http://www.raspberrypi.org/phpBB3/viewtopic.php?f=6&t=5096&p=76654#p76654</ref>.<br />
<br />
*Look at the SD card holder on the Raspberry Pi carefully. At first glance it may look fine but the contacts must be springy and they must protrude at least 2mm as measured from the lower edge of the holder to the top of the contact bulge. This happens due to the solder process and the type of holder used. Some of the solder residue falls into the contact cavity restricting the springiness and the height that the contact protrudes. You can fix this yourself but remember you can void your warranty. The contacts are delicate so be carefull. Insert a needle pin under the contact bulge and pull lightly up until the one end of the contact unclips. Clean the cavity where the contact unclipped from of any solder or other residue by blowing into the cavity. Clip the contact back into the cavity by lightly pushing it into the cavity. Do this for all the contacts. Look at these photos. [[Media:SDcardHolder.JPG]], [[Media:UnclipContact.JPG]], [[Media:UnclippedContact.JPG]]<br />
<br />
*If for whatever reason the main polyfuse F3 has been overheated previously it may happen that it hasn't completely recovered, in which case, if you turn the PI on, a considerable amount of energy from the power supply is lost in the fuse and doesn't reach the PI. Try if the polyfuse seems hot. For this problem too read [[#Troubleshooting_power_problems]].<br />
<br />
===Green LED blinks in a specific pattern===<br />
<br />
With recent firmware, according to [http://www.raspberrypi.org/phpBB3/viewtopic.php?f=28&t=8725#p103338 this forum post] the green light will blink in a specific pattern to indicate some types of errors:<br />
<br />
* 3 flashes: <tt>loader.bin</tt> not found<br />
* 4 flashes: <tt>loader.bin</tt> not launched<br />
* 5 flashes: <tt>start.elf</tt> not found<br />
* 6 flashes: <tt>start.elf</tt> not launched<br />
* 7 flashes: <tt>kernel.img</tt> not found<br />
<br />
Firmware since 20th October 2012 no longer requires loader.bin, and the flashes mean:<br />
<br />
* 3 flashes: <tt>start.elf</tt> not found<br />
* 4 flashes: <tt>start.elf</tt> not launched<br />
* 7 flashes: <tt>kernel.img</tt> not found<br />
<br />
If start.elf won't launch it may be corrupt.<br />
<br />
===Coloured splash screen===<br />
[[File:Debug-screen.jpg]]<br />
<br />
With recent firmware, a coloured splash screen is displayed after firmware (start.elf) is loaded. This should be replaced by linux console a second later.<br />
However if the coloured screen remains, it suggests the kernel.img file is failing to boot. Try replacing it with a known good one.<br />
<br />
Immediately after displaying the splash screen, the PI starts consuming a little more current, if the PI resets at that moment its an indication that your PSU isn't able to deliver the full current your PI requires, but dips its output voltage below a minimum when loaded with the full current the PI needs.<br />
<br />
===Kernel Panic on boot ===<br />
Text appears on screen, but then hangs with debug messages. This can be caused by USB devices such as keyboards. <br />
Try again with nothing in the USB.<br />
<br />
===Raspberry Pi shuts down (or restarts) soon after booting up===<br />
This is caused by a power supply producing too low a voltage. See [[#Troubleshooting_power_problems]].<br />
<br />
===Pi boots sometimes but not always===<br />
With a known good power supply and known good SD card, the R-Pi boots occasionally, but other times shows only a tiny green flicker from the "OK" LED and it fails to start, even with no USB devices and no Ethernet. This has been reported several times<ref>http://www.raspberrypi.org/forum/troubleshooting/will-not-boot-consistently-any-suggestions-before-i-send-my-pi-back</ref><br />
<ref>http://www.raspberrypi.org/forum/troubleshooting/booted-once-wont-work-again</ref><br />
<ref>http://www.raspberrypi.org/forum/troubleshooting/possible-fault-pi-boots-sometimes-but-not-always</ref> and remains an open issue. Low voltage or an improper SD card can cause it. Some SD cards will work until they warm up slightly, and then fail<ref>http://www.raspberrypi.org/phpBB3/viewtopic.php?f=6&t=5900&p=79008#p79008</ref>. When exposed to 21 C room temperature the warmest part of an uncased working R-Pi should be 41 C<ref>http://www.raspberrypi.org/phpBB3/viewtopic.php?f=6&t=5900&p=78973#p78973</ref>. The wiki has a [[RPi_VerifiedPeripherals#SD_cards | list of working SD cards]]. Buy from a reliable vendor as it has been [http://www.petapixel.com/2011/05/20/one-third-of-the-sandisk-memory-cards-on-earth-are-counterfeit/ claimed] that 1/3 of all "Sandisk" labelled memory cards are counterfeit.<br />
*It could be that the SD memory card is not making proper contact with the Raspberry Pi. Look at the SD card holder on the Raspberry Pi carefully. At first glance it may look fine but the contacts must be springy and they must protrude at least 2mm as measured fron the lower edge of the holder to the top of the contact bulge. This happens due to the solder process and the type of holder used. Some of the solder residue falls into the contact cavity restricting the springiness and the height that the contact protrudes. You can fix this yourself but remember you can void your warranty. The contacts are delicate so be carefull. Insert a needle pin under the contact bulge and pull lightly up until the one end of the contact unclips. Clean the cavity where the contact unclipped from of any solder or other residue by blowing into the cavity. Clip the contact back into the cavity by lightly pushing it into the cavity. Do this for all the contacts. Look at these photos. [[Media:SDcardHolder.JPG]], [[Media:UnclipContact.JPG]], [[Media:UnclippedContact.JPG]]<br />
<br />
==Keyboard / Mouse / Input Devices==<br />
<br />
===R-Pi does not respond to key presses / Keyboard randomly repeats key presses===<br />
''note:during entering the password most linux distro's wont show that you typed in anything (not even "*" characters) this is normal behaviour, try the keyboard while entering the user name!''<br />
<br />
This is most often caused by inadequate power. Use a good power supply and a good power cable. Some cheap cables that work with a cell phone, cannot fully power the R-Pi. Some USB devices require a lot of power: most will have a label showing the voltage and mA requirements. They should be 5v 100mA each max, any more than this they must be used with a powered USB hub. Try unplugging every USB device except the keyboard (you should also note that some keyboards have built in hubs and can try to draw 150mA (Pi can only handle 100mA per USB slot without a hub)).<br />
Also, use the latest software. Forum user MrEngman [http://www.raspberrypi.org/forum/absolute-beginners/using-a-powered-usb-port-to-power-a-rpi#p76485 reported] some keyboard repeats and wireless hangs until [http://www.raspberrypi.org/downloads upgrading] to the debian6-19-04-2012 kernel, which he reports stable with no problems even with a low [[R-Pi_Troubleshooting#Troubleshooting_power_problems | TP1-TP2 voltage]] of 4.65 - 4.68 volts.<br />
<br />
Some users have reported that their keyboards work fine on Arch linux, but on Debian distro's, their keyboards become erratic (repeats and/or skips key presses). One suggested remedy to this, which has some positive feedback, is to adjust the USB bus speed. To do this, you need to edit the cmdline.txt file, and add "dwc_otg.speed=1" (without quotes) to the end of the file (found in the /boot directory).<br />
<br />
Worst case scenario, some (advanced) keyboards, such as the Roccat Arvo, have kernel modules that need activating. If you have access to another keyboard temporarily, you will need to modprobe the relevent driver. Or if this is not possible, you can rebuild the kernel (instructions available on the wiki page) with the modules installed. (to find the drivers for keyboards etc, you need to find "Device Drivers -> hid Devices".)<br />
<br />
===Keyboard / Mouse interferes with USB WiFi device===<br />
Connecting a keyboard and/or mouse while a USB WiFi device is connected, may cause one or both devices to malfunction. On April 30 2012, there was a bugfix<ref>https://github.com/raspberrypi/linux/commit/e09244e60881148431ecd016ccc42f1fa0678556</ref> relating to USB sharing between high-speed (eg. WiFi) and full/low-speed devices (eg. keyboard/mouse). User spennig<ref>http://www.raspberrypi.org/forum/troubleshooting/usb-power-hub-wifi/page-4#p74609</ref><ref>http://www.raspberrypi.org/forum/troubleshooting/success-with-kb-mouse-wifi?value=3761&type=8&include=1&search=1</ref> reports this patch did not fix the Mouse/WiFi conflict. On 2012-05-12, user spennig was pleased to confirm that wifi was working with a USB keyboard and mouse, as long as the Raspberry Pi had a good PSU and a powered hub. Even so, some experimentation was needed, e.g. USB WiFi connected to the device, and the keyboard and mouse connected to the powered hub. Some experimentation may be necessary to find a working combination; however a good power supply is essential.<br />
<br />
===Wireless Keyboard trouble===<br />
Some wireless keyboards, for example the Microsoft Wireless Keyboard 800 are reported to fail<ref>http://www.raspberrypi.org/forum/troubleshooting/display-and-keyboard-issues-on-a-real-pi#p74816</ref> even though the current drawn by the wireless adaptor is within the R-Pi USB spec limit of 100 mA. This may be a software driver problem.<br />
<br />
===Re-mapping the keyboard with Debian Squeeze===<br />
If different letters appear on-screen from that which you typed, you need to reconfigure you keyboard settings. In Debian, from a command line type:<br />
sudo dpkg-reconfigure keyboard-configuration<br />
Follow the prompts. Then restart your RasPi.<br />'''Or:'''<br /> From the command line type:<br />
sudo nano /etc/default/keyboard<br />
Then find where it says <blockquote>XKBLAYOUT=”gb”</blockquote>and change the gb to the two letter code for your country. [http://www.raspberrypi.org/phpBB3/viewtopic.php?p=78325#p78325]<br />
<br />
===Slow keyboard mapping=== <br />
If you have remapped your keyboard and get a very long delay during the keyboard mapping at startup, type the following once on the command line after you have logged in:<br />
sudo setupcon<br />
<br />
===No USB device works, with known good PS, SD card, KB=== <br />
There has been more than one report<ref>http://www.raspberrypi.org/phpBB3/viewtopic.php?f=28&t=7533</ref><ref>http://www.raspberrypi.org/phpBB3/viewtopic.php?t=5766#p77576</ref><ref>http://www.raspberrypi.org/phpBB3/viewtopic.php?t=5766#p80995</ref> of a R-Pi booting but not getting USB input, using a known-good power supply, SD card, and keyboard. The more common cause for no USB devices working is [[#Troubleshooting_power_problems|low power supply voltage]] from bad PSU, cable, or USB hub, but in this case the problem was no clock signal present at the LAN9512 USB/Ethernet chip "IC3", and the solution was to reflow the solder on the 25 MHz crystal "X1" on the bottom side of the board.<br />
Or return the board for a replacement, but before making this conclusion, confirm known good peripherals. A significant number of <br />
[[RPi_VerifiedPeripherals#USB_Keyboards| USB keyboards]] are not compatible with R-Pi. As of June 1 2012, Eben reported<ref>http://www.raspberrypi.org/phpBB3/viewtopic.php?f=28&t=6822&p=89589&hilit=eben#p89513</ref> that only about 1 in 1000 shipped R-Pi boards have been found to have a hardware fault of any kind.<br />
<br />
== Updating firmware ==<br />
=== Check your firmware version ===<br />
Using the latest firmware version may help various problems with SD card and display compatibility. Check the kernel version with:<br />
uname -a<br />
Linux RPi 3.1.19 #1 PREEMPT Fri Jun 1 14:16:38 CEST 2012 armv6l GNU/Linux<br />
<br />
And the GPU firmware with:<br />
/opt/vc/bin/vcgencmd version<br />
May 31 2012 13:35:03<br />
Copyright (c) 2012 Broadcom<br />
version 317494 (release)<br />
<br />
=== Get the latest firmware version ===<br />
The GPU firmware and kernel can be updated with [https://github.com/Hexxeh/rpi-update Hexxeh's rpi-update tool].<br />
<br />
However this requires the Pi to be successfully booted. With sdcard problems, you may not get that far, so can try a manual udpate.<br />
If you have a Linux machine, rpi-update can be run on that in an offline mode, and will update your sdcard from the Linux machine.<br />
<br />
Otherwise, on a Windows computer, you will see the "/boot" partition appear as the contents of SD card. <br />
You can download the latest GPU firmware version [https://github.com/raspberrypi/firmware/blob/master/boot/start.elf here].<br />
Click on '''view raw''', then save it, and put the new start.elf file on the sdcard replacing the existing one. Similarly, the latest kernel is [https://github.com/raspberrypi/firmware/tree/master/boot/kernel.img here].<br />
After updating these files you should be able to boot. You still need to run rpi-update to update the kernel modules (in /lib/modules) and the GPU libraries (in /opt/vc).<br />
<br />
=== Choosing the right ARM/GPU memory split ===<br />
There is a choice of how the 256M/512M of RAM is divided between the ARM and GPU:<br />
gpu_mem=16 : 16M GPU, 240M/496M ARM split : Maximum ARM memory. Good for ARM desktop use. No accelerated video or 3D possible.<br />
gpu_mem=64 : 64M GPU, 192M/448M ARM split : Reasonable ARM memory. Simple video (omxplayer) or 3D (quake) is possible. This is the default.<br />
gpu_mem=128 : 128M GPU, 128M/384M ARM split : Use this for heavy 3D work, or 3D plus video. Needed for XBMC.<br />
<br />
To switch, edit the gpu_mem= setting in your config.txt and reboot.<br />
<br />
Note: other amounts are also possible, but setting gpu_mem=32 is usually the wrong choice. gpu_mem=16 is almost always a better choice.<br />
<br />
Also note that before the release of the 51MB PI a different method was used based on splitting the 256MB RAM in a part for the CPU and GPU. As this noting system was causing trouble if the amount of RAM was not always the same. the above new method was adapted.<br />
<br />
Make sure your editor doesn't change the first letter of the line into an uppercase letter, as some editors do. The entry is case sensitive.<br />
<br />
== SD cards ==<br />
<br />
* If you have problems, check you have latest firmware version (described above)<br />
* Some SD cards do not work on the R-Pi, so check the [[RPi_VerifiedPeripherals#SD_cards|list of known SD cards]].<br />
* If you are having problems setting up your SD card you might want to start by erasing it completely - especially if it has been used elsewhere and still contains data / partitions.<br />
** Windows and Mac users can download a formatting tool from the SD Association: https://www.sdcard.org/downloads/formatter_3/<br />
* Reformatting cards is also easy to do in a digital camera.<br />
* After writing the image to the SD card, verify that you can see the boot partition when you insert the SD card into your computer. The partition should contain a number of files, including ''start.elf'' and ''kernel.img''. If you do not see these files on the SD card, you have made an error writing the image file.<br />
* If you are manually preparing your SD card on Linux or Mac OS using the ''dd'' command, this operation will completely erase any existing data and partitions. Make sure you write to the whole card (e.g. <tt>/dev/sdd</tt>) and not to an existing partition (e.g. <tt>/dev/sdd1</tt>).<br />
* If you have an sdcard that doesn't work with latest firmware, head over [http://www.raspberrypi.org/phpBB3/viewtopic.php?f=63&t=6093 here].<br />
* If you put the SD card into your PC in an attempt to write the R-Pi operating system onto it, and the PC tells you the card is write-protected, even with the write-protect tab in the correct, forward position, then you may have a faulty SD-card rewriter. There's a common fault with many SD-card rewriters - The write-protect tab is detected by a very thin, narrow metal strip, that is part of a switch. When the card is inserted, the write-protect tab is supposed to push the strip and make/break the contact, as needed. Unfortunately, these strips have a habit of getting stuck, because they are mounted in a thin plastic channel, and only need to be deformed slightly sideways to get jammed.<br />
Luckily, if you have this problem, most built-in card readers are easy to pull apart and repair; some users have even reported succesfully unjamming the switch with a blast of compressed air from a can into the SD-card slot without having to dismantle anything.<br />
You may also be able to temporarily get round the problem by putting the write-protect tab in a half-way position - this pushes on a different part of the strip and may break the contact - it's worth trying a few, slightly different positions. You could also use a USB-SD card adaptor, which are cheap to buy.<br />
<br />
==Networking==<br />
<br />
===Ethernet connection is lost when a USB device is plugged in===<br />
This is often caused by inadequate power. Use a good power supply and a good power cable. Some cheap cables that work with a cell phone, cannot fully power the R-Pi. Some USB devices require a lot of power (>100 mA), so they must be used with a powered USB hub. Some cheap USB hubs suck power from the Raspberry Pi even if a USB power supply is connected. (More often than not, however, the reverse is true with cheap hubs—the Pi draws just enough power backwards from the powered hub to unsuccessfully attempt booting.)<br />
<br />
There is an ongoing issue with the Ethernet connection being lost when low-speed devices, such as mice or keyboards are connected via a powered USB hub. The simplest way to solve this is to connect your mouse and keyboard directly into the 2 USB ports on the R-Pi (assuming they draw less than 100 mA apiece).<br />
<br />
===Ethernet connects at 10M instead of 100M===<br />
The LED in the corner of the board labelled "10M" is mislabeled. When that LED is on, the R-Pi is actually connected at 100 Mbps. You can confirm the true transfer rate using a network benchmark such as iperf. You can also read the current network speed with<br />
cat /sys/class/net/eth0/speed<br />
<br />
===Cannot ssh in to Pi===<br />
<br />
In the Debian image, ssh is disabled by default. Boot commands are taken from /boot/boot.rc if that file present. There is an example file named '''boot_enable_ssh.rc''' that enables ssh. So:<br />
<br />
sudo mv /boot/boot_enable_ssh.rc /boot/boot.rc<br />
<br />
and reboot should enable ssh. (password as below)<br />
<br />
===Network/USB chip gets too hot to touch===<br />
<br />
This is normal. In open air at 24 C, the LAN9512 Ethernet/USB chip reaches about 52 C after some time. This is too hot to touch for more than a few seconds, but it is not unusually hot for the chip.<br />
<br />
The <br />
[http://www.smsc.com/media/Downloads_Public/Data_Sheets/9512.pdf LAN9512 data sheet] in Table 4.1 on p.40 says it comes in two versions, rated for operation at an ambient temperature in still air (Ta) of 70 C (commercial) or 85 C (industrial). It uses 763 mW at 3.3V with maximum traffic on 100baseT and both USB ports (Table 4.3.4, p. 42).<br />
<br />
There is a study of RasPi heat profiles by "Remy" at [http://www.geektopia.es/es/technology/2012/06/22/articulos/se-calienta-el-ordenador-raspberry-pi-estudio-de-sus-temperaturas-en-funcionamiento.html ¿Se calienta el ordenador Raspberry Pi? Estudio de sus temperaturas en funcionamiento] (''Is the Raspberry Pi computer getting hot? A study of its operational temperature.'') The Spanish article has numerous color temperature images of RasPi in various operational modes, with the highest LAN9512 case temperature measured as 64.5 C.<br />
<br />
===Networking no longer works when changing SD card between two Raspberry Pis===<br />
<br />
In some distributions, /etc/udev/rules.d/70-persistent-net.rules remembers which MAC address is associated with eth0, so each new device will be assigned as a different interface (eth1, eth2, etc.) due to the different MAC addresses. Editing /etc/udev/rules.d/70-persistent-net.rules to remove the invalid rules and rebooting may help fix the problem.<br />
<br />
===Crashes occur with high network load===<br />
<br />
The USB driver allocates memory from the kernel, and when traffic is very high (e.g. when using torrents/newsgroup downloads) this memory can be exhausted causing crashes/hangs. You should have a line like:<br />
<br />
vm.min_free_kbytes = 8192<br />
<br />
in /etc/sysctl.conf. Try increasing that number to 16384 (or higher). If that doesn't work, try adding to /boot/cmdline.txt<br />
<br />
smsc95xx.turbo_mode=N<br />
<br />
which will reduce network throughput, but has improved stability issues for some.<br />
<br />
===Network connection fails when a Graphical User Interface is being used===<br />
<br />
The network connection may fail when the command startx is used to enter a Graphical User Interface. This is caused by a bug in the USB driver related to certain types of USB mouse.<br />
<br />
As of 1 September 2012, this fault is fixed in the latest firmware. To load the latest firmware, see<br />
[http://elinux.org/R-Pi_Troubleshooting#Updating_firmware http://elinux.org/R-Pi_Troubleshooting#Updating_firmware]<br />
<br />
==Passwords==<br />
===I do not know the password to login===<br />
Please check the page [http://www.raspberrypi.org/downloads http://www.raspberrypi.org/downloads] for the correct username and password for each image.<br />
<br />
Here are the most common username/password combinations:<br />
*Debian after Feb 2012: pi/raspberry<br />
*Debian 17 Feb 2012: pi/suse<br />
*Arch: root/root<br />
*Bodhi: pi/bodhilinux<br />
<br />
===Some programs refuse to accept my password===<br />
While using Debian, some programs may ask for your password but refuse to accept a valid password.<br />
<br />
This is a fault in old Debian images previous to September 2012. If you are using an image with this fault, upgrade to a more modern image or enter the following command on the command line.<br />
gconftool-2 --type bool --set /apps/gksu/sudo-mode true<br />
Please enter this command carefully, the spaces are important. The command should be accepted without any response or errors.<br />
<br />
===I don't know the root password===<br />
<br />
There is no root password set by default on Debian. You are expected to do everything through sudo. You can set one with "sudo passwd root" - just make sure you know what you are doing with a root account.<br />
<br />
==Sound==<br />
===Sound does not work with an HDMI monitor===<br />
This is caused by some computer monitors which select DVI mode even if an HDMI cable is connected. This fix may be necessary even if other HDMI devices work perfectly on the same monitor (or TV)!<br />
<br />
Edit the configuration file - see the instructions at [[R-Pi_ConfigurationFile]].<br />
<br />
Add the following line to the configuration file:<br />
hdmi_drive=2<br />
<br />
This will force it to select HDMI mode.<br />
<br />
<br />
'''More reasons why sound does not work with an HDMI monitor'''<br />
<br />
With an HDMI connection it might be possible to hear:<br />
./hello_audio.bin 1<br />
but not:<br />
aplay /usr/share/sounds/alsa/Front_Center.wav<br />
<br />
Firstly, it seems that some HD TVs mute audible sound output when there is no digital input, and slowly fade the sound up and down at the start and end of digital input. This means that short duration sounds will not be heard. A work around is to play longer duration wav files.<br />
<br />
Secondly, it seems that some HD TVs mute audible sound output when there is only one channel of digital input. So, as the file Front_Center.wav is mono, it might not be heard. ALSA aplay uses the file information header to configure its digital output. And the aplay -c 2 option does not over-ride the settings aplay picks up from the file information header. So, if your HD TV doesn't accept just one channel of digital input, you cannot use aplay to hear a mono wav file. However, with the command speaker-test, the -c2 option does work, and sets 2 channels in the digital stream. So speaker-test can be used to hear the file Front_Center.wav in either the left or right speaker using the -s option 1 or 2. <br />
For example<br />
Speaker-test -c 2 -s 1 -t wav -W /usr/share/sounds/alsa -w Front_Center.wav<br />
should be heard on the left speaker. But note that the command speaker-test seems only to like mono wav files, and seems not to play stereo wav files.<br />
<br />
The command aplay plays 2 channel stereo wav files in stereo sound without problem (provided they last longer than the time it takes the TV to unmute and remute). A helpful example I found is the stereo file LRMonoPhase4.wav at the Kozco web site [http://www.kozco.com/tech/soundtests.html]<br />
<br />
===Sound does not work at all, or in some applications===<br />
In Debian Squeeze, sound is disabled by default because the ALSA sound driver is still "alpha" (not fully tested) on the R-Pi. To try out sound, from the command prompt ''before'' "startx", type<br />
<br />
sudo apt-get install alsa-utils<br />
sudo modprobe snd_bcm2835<br />
<br />
On Debian Wheezy, snd_bm2835 is enabled, by default, do that step is not necessary. Next try:<br />
<br />
sudo aplay /usr/share/sounds/alsa/Front_Center.wav<br />
<br />
By default output will be automatic (hdmi if hdmi supports audio, otherwise analogue). You can force it with:<br />
<br />
sudo amixer cset numid=3 <n><br />
<br />
where n is 0=auto, 1=headphones, 2=hdmi.<br />
<br />
With recent firmware, you can build hello_audio with:<br />
cd /opt/vc/src/hello_pi/<br />
./rebuild.sh<br />
cd hello_audio<br />
<br />
With older firmware<br />
cd /opt/vc/src/hello_pi/hello_audio<br />
make<br />
<br />
to test analogue output:<br />
./hello_audio.bin<br />
and:<br />
./hello_audio.bin 1<br />
to test HDMI.<br />
<br />
Also note that you may have to add your user to the 'audio' group to get permission to access the sound card.<br />
<br />
==Display==<br />
===Startx fails to start===<br />
If you just get errors instead of a desktop when typing<br />
startx<br />
you may be out of storage space on the SD card. By default there are only a few hundred MB free in the 2 GB main partition, which can quickly fill up if you download files. Make sure there is some space free (gparted can expand a partition, if the SD card is > 2GB). Also, installing some software may incorrectly create or modify a .Xauthority file in your home directory, causing startx to fail, according to [http://www.raspberrypi.org/forum/troubleshooting/startx-fails-worked-yesterday this thread]. Temporarily renaming, moving, or deleting that file may fix the problem.<br />
<br />
===Screen is the wrong color===<br />
Check and see if the DVI cable is screwed in properly. If that doesn't work then try [[#Interference_visible_on_a_HDMI_or_DVI_monitor|this]] section.<br />
<br />
===Video does not play or plays very slowly===<br />
The only hardware-accelerated video player is in the [http://www.raspberrypi.org/forum/general-discussion/openelec-meets-raspberry-pi-part-1-xbmc XBMC distribution] and its command line variant [[omxplayer]]. H264 is the only hardware-accelerated codec, for playback. No hardware encoding is supported. Additional codecs were not purchased as licensing fees would have increased the R-Pi's price.<br />
<br />
===Can only get 800x480 resolution in LXDE (Arch linux)===<br />
Known issue with distro package as of 17th April 2012 - there's some missing boot config information. Creating a suitable cmdline.txt fixes it - type the following at the Raspberry Pi command line:<br />
<br />
<pre><br />
sudo echo "dwc_otg.lpm_enable=0 console=ttyAMA0,115200 kgdboc=ttyAMA0,115200 root=/dev/mmcblk0p2 rootfstype=ext3 rootwait" >/boot/cmdline.txt<br />
</pre><br />
<br />
===Big black borders around small image on HD monitors===<br />
<br />
Out of the box, R-Pi graphics don't necessarily fill the whole screen. This is due to something called "Underscan", and it can be fixed easily.<br />
<br />
Note: the best solution is to disable overscan in display menu options (it may be called "just scan", "screen fit", "HD size", "full pixel", "unscaled", "dot by dot", "native" or "1:1"), then use the disable_overscan=1 option.<br />
<br />
Edit the configuration file, see the instructions at [[R-Pi_ConfigurationFile]].<br />
<br />
Add the following lines to the configuration file...<br />
<br />
If your display has no overscan:<br />
<br />
<pre><br />
<br />
disable_overscan=1<br />
<br />
</pre><br />
<br />
or if your display has some overscan:<br />
<br />
<pre><br />
<br />
overscan_left=-20<br />
<br />
overscan_right=-20<br />
<br />
overscan_top=-20<br />
<br />
overscan_bottom=-20<br />
<br />
</pre><br />
<br />
Making the R-Pi graphics fill the screen is a matter of experimenting with the numbers you put in the config.txt file. Change the numbers – try jumps of 5 or 10 at a time. Bigger negative numbers reduce the black borders (so -40 means less black border than -20). The numbers do not all have to be the same; you can use this feature to centre the display on the screen.<br />
<br />
===Writing spills off the screen on HD monitors===<br />
<br />
Out of the box, R-Pi graphics may be larger than the 1080p (ie Full HD) screen. This is due to something called "Overscan", and it can be fixed easily by creating a simple text file on the R-Pi SD card by using Notepad on your PC.<br />
<br />
Follow the instructions in the section "Big black borders around small image on HD monitors", but use positive numbers for the overscan settings, for example<br />
<pre><br />
<br />
overscan_left=20<br />
<br />
overscan_right=20<br />
<br />
overscan_top=20<br />
<br />
overscan_bottom=20<br />
<br />
</pre><br />
<br />
===Interference visible on a HDMI or DVI monitor===<br />
This may be caused by loss of signal on long video cables. The signal level may be increased by changing a configuration parameter.<br />
<br />
[[File:RPi_HDMI_interference.jpg|600px]]<br />
<br />
Edit the configuration file, see the instructions at [[R-Pi_ConfigurationFile]].<br />
<br />
Add the following line to the configuration file<br />
config_hdmi_boost=4<br />
<br />
You may experiment with different values of config_hdmi_boost. Value 1 is used for very short cables, value 7 is used for very long cables. At your own risk, you can go up to 11, but risk frying a sensitive monitor. <br />
<br />
Note that various adapters, such as HDMI-to-DVI, can also cause power loss and therefore require high values of config_hdmi_boost even with short cables.<br />
<br />
This option can also help when there is no display output at all, the display periodically blanks, or colours are wrong/inverted.<br />
<br />
This symptom can also be caused by RasPi +5V (measured from TP1 to TP2) falling too low. See [[#Troubleshooting_power_problems|Troubleshooting Power Problems]].<br />
<br />
===No HDMI output at all===<br />
First make sure the display is powered on and switched to the right input before booting Pi.<br />
<br />
If you have the [http://www.raspberrypi.org/archives/1435 Wheezy] image (recommended) then try<br />
hdmi_safe=1<br />
<br />
Otherwise, try adding the following line to the configuration file (similar to interference case above)<br />
config_hdmi_boost=4<br />
<br />
Your monitor/cable may not be asserting the hotplug signal. You can override this with:<br />
hdmi_force_hotplug=1<br />
<br />
Also [http://www.raspberrypi.org/phpBB3/viewtopic.php?f=28&t=7513 try] the following video options:<br />
hdmi_group=2<br />
hdmi_mode=4<br />
which resolved an issue with DVI monitor reporting "input signal out of range"<br />
<br />
As a last resort, try deleting (rename to keep backup) config.txt from the SD card.<br />
<br />
Also check that the RasPi +5V voltage (measured from TP1 to TP2) is in the correct range. One user found that his DVI-D monitor blanked out when +5V was too low. See [[#Troubleshooting_power_problems|Troubleshooting Power Problems]].<br />
<br />
Here's a rare cause: A standard HDMI cable has five individual ground wires plus a shield. Some cheap HDMI cables do not implement the individual grounds and just have a common foil shield that's connected to the HDMI plug shells at both ends. This works OK in most HDMI applications since most HDMI sources (like RasPi) and most monitors connect the shells to circuit ground. However, some HDMI or DVI monitors may requires individual ground lines. You can tell if an HDMI cable implements the individual grounds by checking for continuity using an Ohmmeter or multimeter. You can find the HDMI pinout for full-size connectors at [http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/HDMI Wikipedia].<br />
<br />
===Composite displays no image===<br />
The output display will default to HDMI if a HDMI display is connected, and composite if not. Make sure there isn't a HDMI cable connected when you want to use composite output.<br />
<br />
Also, check that your TV is set to the correct input, normally marked "AV". If your TV has multiple AV inputs, try all of the inputs, normally by pressing a button marked "AV" or "Input" or "Source" or "->O" on the remote control.<br />
<br />
===Composite displays only black and white image===<br />
The composite display defaults to NTSC (American) output. Most TVs will show an image with that, but older PAL (European) televisions may display only back and white or no image. To fix this:<br />
<br />
Edit the configuration file, see the instructions at [[R-Pi_ConfigurationFile]].<br />
<br />
Add the following line to the configuration file<br />
sdtv_mode=2<br />
<br />
(You can try other values: 0 is NTSC, 1 is Japanese NTSC, 2 is PAL, 3 is Brazilian PAL)<br />
<br />
===HDMI -> VGA adapters===<br />
Some good information can be found here:<br />
* [[RPi_VerifiedPeripherals#HDMI-.3EVGA_converter_boxes]]<br />
* [http://www.raspberrypi.org/phpBB3/viewtopic.php?f=28&t=9819 (RPi forum) Serious HDMI Problems. What's that smell? Burning Raspberry!]<br />
<br />
A commonly used adapter from Ebay: gallery with detailed images & steps of a modification to use external power source: [http://imgur.com/a/sLogs/all HERE] --''by [[User:Pinoccio|Pinoccio]]''<br />
<br />
==GPIO==<br />
Remember that the GPIO pins are 3.3V logic level only, and are <strong>NOT</strong> 5V tolerant.<br />
<br />
If you momentarily shorted the two end GPIO pins together (+3.3V and +5V), or a supply pin to ground, and the Pi appears to be dead, don't panic. The input polyfuse may have tripped. It is self-resetting after it cools down and the polymer re-crystallizes, which can take several hours. Set the Pi aside and try again later.<br />
<br />
The GPIO pins connect directly into the core of the ARM processer, and are static-sensitive, so you should avoid touching the pins wherever possible. If you are carrying a static charge, for example by taking off an acrylic pullover, or walking across a nylon carpet, touching the GPIO pins could destroy your R-Pi, so always earth yourself before touching the pins or anything connected to them.<br />
<br />
==General==<br />
===The time is incorrect===<br />
If the clock is off by a series of hours, in the command line type:<br />
sudo dpkg-reconfigure tzdata<br />
<br />
The R-Pi has no real-time clock, so unless it can access a timeserver over the network at boot, or time is manually entered by the user, the time/date will restart counting from the last logged time in the previous session.<br />
<br />
===A part broke off===<br />
<br />
The silver cylinder near the microUSB power input is a 220 uF capacitor ("C6" on schematic). It sticks up and due to the small surface-mount pads, it is easy to break off; several people have done so. This is a power supply filter capacitor which reduces any noise and spikes on the input +5V power. If you like, you can solder it back on, or just leave it off. If you do solder it back on, take care to observe the correct polarity with the black stripe towards the board edge. This part, C6 is a "just in case" component which is good design practice to include, but [http://www.raspberrypi.org/phpBB3/viewtopic.php?f=2&t=4926| as it turns out] most power supplies still work OK without this part installed. This part is also [http://elinux.org/RPi_Hardware#Capacitor_C6 discussed here].<br />
<br />
===Unable to install new software===<br />
When trying to install a software package (using the command sudo apt-get install xxxx) you may see the error<br />
Package yyyy is not available<br />
This means that your software list is out of date. Before attempting to install software, you should always make sure that you are using the latest software list by using the command<br />
sudo apt-get update<br />
<br />
==Troubleshooting power problems==<br />
<br />
If you think you have a problem with your power supply, it is a good idea to check the actual voltage<br />
on the Raspberry Pi circuit board. Two test points labelled TP1 and TP2 are provided on the circuit board<br />
to facilitate voltage measurements.<br />
<br />
Use a multimeter which is set to the range 20 volts DC (or 20v =). You should see a voltage between 4.75 and 5.25 volts. Anything outside this range indicates that you have a problem with your power supply or your power cable.<br />
<br />
If you have not used a multimeter before, see these [[http://www.sparkfun.com/tutorials/202 basic instructions]]<br />
<br />
Note: Even if the multimeter shows the correct voltage, you may have some power supply problems. A multimeter only displays the average voltage. If there are very short-lived dips or spikes in the voltage, these will not be shown by the multimeter. It is best to measure voltage when Pi is busy.<br />
<br />
If your voltage is low, it could be:<br />
* The power supply produces too low a voltage<br />
* The power supply cannot supply enough current, which results in a voltage drop. Make sure Power supply is labelled as at least 700mA. (Some cheap power supplies don't deliver what is labelled).<br />
* The Micro USB power cable is low quality. Some Micro USB cables have very thin conductors, resulting in enough voltage drop for RasPi to fail even if the power supply itself is fine. For details, see [[On_the_RPi_usb_power_cable]].<br />
* Attached USB devices want too much power. The Pi is only designed for up to 100mA USB devices. A USB device wanting more that that will cause a voltage drop.<br />
* The F3 Polyfuse could be blown or bad, see below for how to test.<br />
Note: keyboards with LCD displays, built in USB hubs, backlights, etc are likely to be problematic. Try to use a basic one. Wifi dongles are also unlikely to work when directly connected. Connect high powered USB devices to a powered USB hub.<br />
<br />
Try booting without HDMI, ethernet or USB deviced plugged in, and see if the voltage improves.<br />
See also: [[RPi_Hardware#Power_Supply_Problems| Power Supply Problems]]<br />
<br />
[[File:RPI_Test_Points.JPG|400px]] [[File:Voltmeter.JPG|250px]]<br />
<br />
<br />
'''How to test the F3 polyfuse<ref>http://www.raspberrypi.org/phpBB3/viewtopic.php?f=26&t=22318</ref>'''<br />
<br />
# Remove all the things plugged into your Raspberry Pi, including SD card.<br />
# Locate the TP2 test point on the top of the board.<br />
# Turn your board over and find the TP2 test point on the bottom of the board. One lead of your multi-meter will always be on the TP2 point on the bottom of the board for all tests.<br />
# Plug your power supply into the micro usb port and power your board.<br />
# Place one lead of your multi-meter on the TP2 point on the bottom of the board and one lead on the side of the F3 fuse closest to the edge of the board. Note the voltage. This is the voltage coming into your RPi from your power supply.<br />
# Keeping one lead on TP2, move the other lead to the side of F3 closest to the SD card slot. This is the voltage coming out of the F3 fuse.<br />
<br />
[[File:F3-testing.jpg|none|frame|Multi-meter lead placement for testing the Raspberry Pi F3 Polyfuse]]<br />
<br />
If the voltage is different by more than about 0.06v - 0.23v you probably have a problem with the F3 fuse<ref>http://www.raspberrypi.org/phpBB3/viewtopic.php?f=28&t=24005&p=222526#p222526</ref>.<br />
<br />
When polyfuses "blow" their resistance increases dramatically, there by limiting the voltage that can pass through them. If your power problem suddenly appeared after your board was known to be working fine, it is probable the fuse is just "blown" and will return to normal. It can take 24 hours for the resistance to go back down to normal so leave it unpowered and check it again in 24 hours. If your power problem has been since the first time you plugged in your board, the fuse was probably bad when it arrived and should be returned to place you purchased it.<br />
<br />
If you prefer to make your own PSU - see: [[RPi_5V_PSU_construction| Power Supply construction - HowTo]]<br />
<br />
==Hardware versions/revisions==<br />
Several different boards have been found probably from different assembly lines, and the following tables try to help you identify your board for better troubleshooting.<br />
<br />
Look for the date of manufacturing printed with the year and week. In this example year (2012) and week (18th):[[File:Date_of_manufacturing.jpg|200px|thumb|right]]<br />
<br />
For what we can see for model B boards there are mainly two versions that differ on the type RAM used, Samsung (S) and Hynix (H).<br />
<br />
For '''Board ver'''. we used: <model><RAM Maker><production date> (ex.: BS1218 is "Model B, Samsung RAM, 18th week of 2012")<br />
<br />
Model A:<br />
{| border="1" class="wikitable"<br />
|-<br />
! Board<br />
ver.<br />
! RAM<br />
Chip <br />
! USB<br />
Chip <br />
! Front<br />
! Back<br />
|-<br />
| <br />
| <br />
| <br />
| <br />
| <br />
|}<br />
<br />
<br />
Model B:<br />
{| border="1" class="wikitable"<br />
|-<br />
! Board<br />
ver.<br />
! RAM<br />
Chip <br />
! USB<br />
Chip <br />
! Front<br />
! Back<br />
|-<br />
| BS12xx<br />
| Samsung<br />
| SMSC<br />
| [[File:RaspberryPi-Board_A-Front.JPG|200px|thumb|center]]<br />
| [[File:RaspberryPi-Board_A-Back.JPG|200px|thumb|center]]<br />
|-<br />
| BH12xx<br />
| Hynix<br />
| SMSC<br />
| [[File:RaspberryPi-Board_B-Front.JPG|200px|thumb|center]]<br />
| [[File:RaspberryPi-Board_B-Back.JPG|200px|thumb|center]]<br />
|}<br />
<br />
<big>See a '''complete list''' and user feedback here: [[RaspberryPi Boards]]</big><br />
<br />
=References= <br />
<references/><br />
<br />
{{Template:Raspberry Pi}}<br />
<br />
[[Category:RaspberryPi]]</div>Bgirardothttps://elinux.org/index.php?title=R-Pi_Troubleshooting&diff=195734R-Pi Troubleshooting2012-11-27T16:56:19Z<p>Bgirardot: Added RPi forum reference for F3 test info</p>
<hr />
<div>[[Category:RaspberryPi]]<br />
<br />
Back to the [[R-Pi Hub|Hub]].<br />
<br />
This page lists the most common problems and suggests some solutions.<br />
<br />
See [[RPi_Bugs]] for problems that are bugs.<br />
<br />
==Power / Start-up==<br />
A good power supply that will supply 5V is vital. There is more information about See [[#Troubleshooting_power_problems]].<br />
<br />
Note that the PI has no BIOS, so nothing will be displayed on screen unless the PI successfully boots!<br />
<br />
===Red power LED does not light, nothing on display===<br />
The power is not properly connected.<br />
<br />
===Red power LED is blinking===<br />
The red power LED should never blink, because it is hard-wired to the 3.3V power supply rail. If it is blinking, as one user has reported<ref>http://www.raspberrypi.org/phpBB3/viewtopic.php?f=28&t=7528</ref> it means the 5V power supply is dropping out. Use a different power supply.<br />
<br />
===Red power LED is on, green LED does not flash, nothing on display===<br />
''note; For technical reasons the green LED might light up very faintly, this is normal, but it doesn't mean it "burns". When flashing/blinking the green LED should light up as bright as the power LED.''<br />
*The Raspberry Pi cannot find a valid image on the SD card. Check card is inserted correctly. Check that you have correctly written a Raspberry Pi image to the card. Did you have admin rights when you used the SD-card writer software? Without it the software might go through the motions without actually doing anything! To check if the writing process did actually happen Insert the SD card into a Windows machine and you should see bootcode.bin, fixup.dat and start.elf amongst others. See also, [[RPi_VerifiedPeripherals#SD_cards|Known SD Cards]]. It is also possible that the image you are writing to the card is corrupt, as downloads do occasionally end up corrupted or truncated. You can check with the checksum utility if your download is correct.<br />
<br />
*Try with no cables connected except the USB power lead, and SD card inserted. You should see flashing of the OK light for ~20 seconds. If that helps, plug in cables one at a time to identify which is interfering with boot.<br />
<br />
*Confirm the USB cable is properly seated in the power slot. The red power LED does not necessarily mean it is fully connected.<br />
<br />
*The voltage is too low (below 5 V), try a different power supply and/or cable. The R-Pi needs a supply rated for 700 mA or more. Some supplies labeled as such cannot actually provide their rated current while maintaining 5V. See also, [[#Troubleshooting_power_problems]].<br />
<br />
*There may be a bug in the distributed version of bootcode.bin which causes problems with some sdcards. Try this version: https://github.com/raspberrypi/firmware/blob/234c19de7cbaaf4997671d61df20a05759066295/boot/bootcode.bin. Please let us know if it "fixes" your non-working SD card (or, more importantly, if it doesn't). This can also manifest itself as intermittent booting, or only booting when cold.<br />
<br />
*''(unlikely)'' hardware abuse, for example by connecting a 7 V supply to a 3v3 GPIO output pin<ref>http://www.raspberrypi.org/phpBB3/viewtopic.php?f=6&t=5096&p=76503#p76503</ref> or powering up the board after a solder splash shorts some traces<ref>http://www.raspberrypi.org/phpBB3/viewtopic.php?f=6&t=5096&p=76654#p76654</ref>.<br />
<br />
*Look at the SD card holder on the Raspberry Pi carefully. At first glance it may look fine but the contacts must be springy and they must protrude at least 2mm as measured from the lower edge of the holder to the top of the contact bulge. This happens due to the solder process and the type of holder used. Some of the solder residue falls into the contact cavity restricting the springiness and the height that the contact protrudes. You can fix this yourself but remember you can void your warranty. The contacts are delicate so be carefull. Insert a needle pin under the contact bulge and pull lightly up until the one end of the contact unclips. Clean the cavity where the contact unclipped from of any solder or other residue by blowing into the cavity. Clip the contact back into the cavity by lightly pushing it into the cavity. Do this for all the contacts. Look at these photos. [[Media:SDcardHolder.JPG]], [[Media:UnclipContact.JPG]], [[Media:UnclippedContact.JPG]]<br />
<br />
*If for whatever reason the main polyfuse F3 has been overheated previously it may happen that it hasn't completely recovered, in which case, if you turn the PI on, a considerable amount of energy from the power supply is lost in the fuse and doesn't reach the PI. Try if the polyfuse seems hot. For this problem too read [[#Troubleshooting_power_problems]].<br />
<br />
===Green LED blinks in a specific pattern===<br />
<br />
With recent firmware, according to [http://www.raspberrypi.org/phpBB3/viewtopic.php?f=28&t=8725#p103338 this forum post] the green light will blink in a specific pattern to indicate some types of errors:<br />
<br />
* 3 flashes: <tt>loader.bin</tt> not found<br />
* 4 flashes: <tt>loader.bin</tt> not launched<br />
* 5 flashes: <tt>start.elf</tt> not found<br />
* 6 flashes: <tt>start.elf</tt> not launched<br />
* 7 flashes: <tt>kernel.img</tt> not found<br />
<br />
Firmware since 20th October 2012 no longer requires loader.bin, and the flashes mean:<br />
<br />
* 3 flashes: <tt>start.elf</tt> not found<br />
* 4 flashes: <tt>start.elf</tt> not launched<br />
* 7 flashes: <tt>kernel.img</tt> not found<br />
<br />
If start.elf won't launch it may be corrupt.<br />
<br />
===Coloured splash screen===<br />
[[File:Debug-screen.jpg]]<br />
<br />
With recent firmware, a coloured splash screen is displayed after firmware (start.elf) is loaded. This should be replaced by linux console a second later.<br />
However if the coloured screen remains, it suggests the kernel.img file is failing to boot. Try replacing it with a known good one.<br />
<br />
Immediately after displaying the splash screen, the PI starts consuming a little more current, if the PI resets at that moment its an indication that your PSU isn't able to deliver the full current your PI requires, but dips its output voltage below a minimum when loaded with the full current the PI needs.<br />
<br />
===Kernel Panic on boot ===<br />
Text appears on screen, but then hangs with debug messages. This can be caused by USB devices such as keyboards. <br />
Try again with nothing in the USB.<br />
<br />
===Raspberry Pi shuts down (or restarts) soon after booting up===<br />
This is caused by a power supply producing too low a voltage. See [[#Troubleshooting_power_problems]].<br />
<br />
===Pi boots sometimes but not always===<br />
With a known good power supply and known good SD card, the R-Pi boots occasionally, but other times shows only a tiny green flicker from the "OK" LED and it fails to start, even with no USB devices and no Ethernet. This has been reported several times<ref>http://www.raspberrypi.org/forum/troubleshooting/will-not-boot-consistently-any-suggestions-before-i-send-my-pi-back</ref><br />
<ref>http://www.raspberrypi.org/forum/troubleshooting/booted-once-wont-work-again</ref><br />
<ref>http://www.raspberrypi.org/forum/troubleshooting/possible-fault-pi-boots-sometimes-but-not-always</ref> and remains an open issue. Low voltage or an improper SD card can cause it. Some SD cards will work until they warm up slightly, and then fail<ref>http://www.raspberrypi.org/phpBB3/viewtopic.php?f=6&t=5900&p=79008#p79008</ref>. When exposed to 21 C room temperature the warmest part of an uncased working R-Pi should be 41 C<ref>http://www.raspberrypi.org/phpBB3/viewtopic.php?f=6&t=5900&p=78973#p78973</ref>. The wiki has a [[RPi_VerifiedPeripherals#SD_cards | list of working SD cards]]. Buy from a reliable vendor as it has been [http://www.petapixel.com/2011/05/20/one-third-of-the-sandisk-memory-cards-on-earth-are-counterfeit/ claimed] that 1/3 of all "Sandisk" labelled memory cards are counterfeit.<br />
*It could be that the SD memory card is not making proper contact with the Raspberry Pi. Look at the SD card holder on the Raspberry Pi carefully. At first glance it may look fine but the contacts must be springy and they must protrude at least 2mm as measured fron the lower edge of the holder to the top of the contact bulge. This happens due to the solder process and the type of holder used. Some of the solder residue falls into the contact cavity restricting the springiness and the height that the contact protrudes. You can fix this yourself but remember you can void your warranty. The contacts are delicate so be carefull. Insert a needle pin under the contact bulge and pull lightly up until the one end of the contact unclips. Clean the cavity where the contact unclipped from of any solder or other residue by blowing into the cavity. Clip the contact back into the cavity by lightly pushing it into the cavity. Do this for all the contacts. Look at these photos. [[Media:SDcardHolder.JPG]], [[Media:UnclipContact.JPG]], [[Media:UnclippedContact.JPG]]<br />
<br />
==Keyboard / Mouse / Input Devices==<br />
<br />
===R-Pi does not respond to key presses / Keyboard randomly repeats key presses===<br />
''note:during entering the password most linux distro's wont show that you typed in anything (not even "*" characters) this is normal behaviour, try the keyboard while entering the user name!''<br />
<br />
This is most often caused by inadequate power. Use a good power supply and a good power cable. Some cheap cables that work with a cell phone, cannot fully power the R-Pi. Some USB devices require a lot of power: most will have a label showing the voltage and mA requirements. They should be 5v 100mA each max, any more than this they must be used with a powered USB hub. Try unplugging every USB device except the keyboard (you should also note that some keyboards have built in hubs and can try to draw 150mA (Pi can only handle 100mA per USB slot without a hub)).<br />
Also, use the latest software. Forum user MrEngman [http://www.raspberrypi.org/forum/absolute-beginners/using-a-powered-usb-port-to-power-a-rpi#p76485 reported] some keyboard repeats and wireless hangs until [http://www.raspberrypi.org/downloads upgrading] to the debian6-19-04-2012 kernel, which he reports stable with no problems even with a low [[R-Pi_Troubleshooting#Troubleshooting_power_problems | TP1-TP2 voltage]] of 4.65 - 4.68 volts.<br />
<br />
Some users have reported that their keyboards work fine on Arch linux, but on Debian distro's, their keyboards become erratic (repeats and/or skips key presses). One suggested remedy to this, which has some positive feedback, is to adjust the USB bus speed. To do this, you need to edit the cmdline.txt file, and add "dwc_otg.speed=1" (without quotes) to the end of the file (found in the /boot directory).<br />
<br />
Worst case scenario, some (advanced) keyboards, such as the Roccat Arvo, have kernel modules that need activating. If you have access to another keyboard temporarily, you will need to modprobe the relevent driver. Or if this is not possible, you can rebuild the kernel (instructions available on the wiki page) with the modules installed. (to find the drivers for keyboards etc, you need to find "Device Drivers -> hid Devices".)<br />
<br />
===Keyboard / Mouse interferes with USB WiFi device===<br />
Connecting a keyboard and/or mouse while a USB WiFi device is connected, may cause one or both devices to malfunction. On April 30 2012, there was a bugfix<ref>https://github.com/raspberrypi/linux/commit/e09244e60881148431ecd016ccc42f1fa0678556</ref> relating to USB sharing between high-speed (eg. WiFi) and full/low-speed devices (eg. keyboard/mouse). User spennig<ref>http://www.raspberrypi.org/forum/troubleshooting/usb-power-hub-wifi/page-4#p74609</ref><ref>http://www.raspberrypi.org/forum/troubleshooting/success-with-kb-mouse-wifi?value=3761&type=8&include=1&search=1</ref> reports this patch did not fix the Mouse/WiFi conflict. On 2012-05-12, user spennig was pleased to confirm that wifi was working with a USB keyboard and mouse, as long as the Raspberry Pi had a good PSU and a powered hub. Even so, some experimentation was needed, e.g. USB WiFi connected to the device, and the keyboard and mouse connected to the powered hub. Some experimentation may be necessary to find a working combination; however a good power supply is essential.<br />
<br />
===Wireless Keyboard trouble===<br />
Some wireless keyboards, for example the Microsoft Wireless Keyboard 800 are reported to fail<ref>http://www.raspberrypi.org/forum/troubleshooting/display-and-keyboard-issues-on-a-real-pi#p74816</ref> even though the current drawn by the wireless adaptor is within the R-Pi USB spec limit of 100 mA. This may be a software driver problem.<br />
<br />
===Re-mapping the keyboard with Debian Squeeze===<br />
If different letters appear on-screen from that which you typed, you need to reconfigure you keyboard settings. In Debian, from a command line type:<br />
sudo dpkg-reconfigure keyboard-configuration<br />
Follow the prompts. Then restart your RasPi.<br />'''Or:'''<br /> From the command line type:<br />
sudo nano /etc/default/keyboard<br />
Then find where it says <blockquote>XKBLAYOUT=”gb”</blockquote>and change the gb to the two letter code for your country. [http://www.raspberrypi.org/phpBB3/viewtopic.php?p=78325#p78325]<br />
<br />
===Slow keyboard mapping=== <br />
If you have remapped your keyboard and get a very long delay during the keyboard mapping at startup, type the following once on the command line after you have logged in:<br />
sudo setupcon<br />
<br />
===No USB device works, with known good PS, SD card, KB=== <br />
There has been more than one report<ref>http://www.raspberrypi.org/phpBB3/viewtopic.php?f=28&t=7533</ref><ref>http://www.raspberrypi.org/phpBB3/viewtopic.php?t=5766#p77576</ref><ref>http://www.raspberrypi.org/phpBB3/viewtopic.php?t=5766#p80995</ref> of a R-Pi booting but not getting USB input, using a known-good power supply, SD card, and keyboard. The more common cause for no USB devices working is [[#Troubleshooting_power_problems|low power supply voltage]] from bad PSU, cable, or USB hub, but in this case the problem was no clock signal present at the LAN9512 USB/Ethernet chip "IC3", and the solution was to reflow the solder on the 25 MHz crystal "X1" on the bottom side of the board.<br />
Or return the board for a replacement, but before making this conclusion, confirm known good peripherals. A significant number of <br />
[[RPi_VerifiedPeripherals#USB_Keyboards| USB keyboards]] are not compatible with R-Pi. As of June 1 2012, Eben reported<ref>http://www.raspberrypi.org/phpBB3/viewtopic.php?f=28&t=6822&p=89589&hilit=eben#p89513</ref> that only about 1 in 1000 shipped R-Pi boards have been found to have a hardware fault of any kind.<br />
<br />
== Updating firmware ==<br />
=== Check your firmware version ===<br />
Using the latest firmware version may help various problems with SD card and display compatibility. Check the kernel version with:<br />
uname -a<br />
Linux RPi 3.1.19 #1 PREEMPT Fri Jun 1 14:16:38 CEST 2012 armv6l GNU/Linux<br />
<br />
And the GPU firmware with:<br />
/opt/vc/bin/vcgencmd version<br />
May 31 2012 13:35:03<br />
Copyright (c) 2012 Broadcom<br />
version 317494 (release)<br />
<br />
=== Get the latest firmware version ===<br />
The GPU firmware and kernel can be updated with [https://github.com/Hexxeh/rpi-update Hexxeh's rpi-update tool].<br />
<br />
However this requires the Pi to be successfully booted. With sdcard problems, you may not get that far, so can try a manual udpate.<br />
If you have a Linux machine, rpi-update can be run on that in an offline mode, and will update your sdcard from the Linux machine.<br />
<br />
Otherwise, on a Windows computer, you will see the "/boot" partition appear as the contents of SD card. <br />
You can download the latest GPU firmware version [https://github.com/raspberrypi/firmware/blob/master/boot/start.elf here].<br />
Click on '''view raw''', then save it, and put the new start.elf file on the sdcard replacing the existing one. Similarly, the latest kernel is [https://github.com/raspberrypi/firmware/tree/master/boot/kernel.img here].<br />
After updating these files you should be able to boot. You still need to run rpi-update to update the kernel modules (in /lib/modules) and the GPU libraries (in /opt/vc).<br />
<br />
=== Choosing the right ARM/GPU memory split ===<br />
There is a choice of how the 256M/512M of RAM is divided between the ARM and GPU:<br />
gpu_mem=16 : 16M GPU, 240M/496M ARM split : Maximum ARM memory. Good for ARM desktop use. No accelerated video or 3D possible.<br />
gpu_mem=64 : 64M GPU, 192M/448M ARM split : Reasonable ARM memory. Simple video (omxplayer) or 3D (quake) is possible. This is the default.<br />
gpu_mem=128 : 128M GPU, 128M/384M ARM split : Use this for heavy 3D work, or 3D plus video. Needed for XBMC.<br />
<br />
To switch, edit the gpu_mem= setting in your config.txt and reboot.<br />
<br />
Note: other amounts are also possible, but setting gpu_mem=32 is usually the wrong choice. gpu_mem=16 is almost always a better choice.<br />
<br />
Also note that before the release of the 51MB PI a different method was used based on splitting the 256MB RAM in a part for the CPU and GPU. As this noting system was causing trouble if the amount of RAM was not always the same. the above new method was adapted.<br />
<br />
Make sure your editor doesn't change the first letter of the line into an uppercase letter, as some editors do. The entry is case sensitive.<br />
<br />
== SD cards ==<br />
<br />
* If you have problems, check you have latest firmware version (described above)<br />
* Some SD cards do not work on the R-Pi, so check the [[RPi_VerifiedPeripherals#SD_cards|list of known SD cards]].<br />
* If you are having problems setting up your SD card you might want to start by erasing it completely - especially if it has been used elsewhere and still contains data / partitions.<br />
** Windows and Mac users can download a formatting tool from the SD Association: https://www.sdcard.org/downloads/formatter_3/<br />
* Reformatting cards is also easy to do in a digital camera.<br />
* After writing the image to the SD card, verify that you can see the boot partition when you insert the SD card into your computer. The partition should contain a number of files, including ''start.elf'' and ''kernel.img''. If you do not see these files on the SD card, you have made an error writing the image file.<br />
* If you are manually preparing your SD card on Linux or Mac OS using the ''dd'' command, this operation will completely erase any existing data and partitions. Make sure you write to the whole card (e.g. <tt>/dev/sdd</tt>) and not to an existing partition (e.g. <tt>/dev/sdd1</tt>).<br />
* If you have an sdcard that doesn't work with latest firmware, head over [http://www.raspberrypi.org/phpBB3/viewtopic.php?f=63&t=6093 here].<br />
* If you put the SD card into your PC in an attempt to write the R-Pi operating system onto it, and the PC tells you the card is write-protected, even with the write-protect tab in the correct, forward position, then you may have a faulty SD-card rewriter. There's a common fault with many SD-card rewriters - The write-protect tab is detected by a very thin, narrow metal strip, that is part of a switch. When the card is inserted, the write-protect tab is supposed to push the strip and make/break the contact, as needed. Unfortunately, these strips have a habit of getting stuck, because they are mounted in a thin plastic channel, and only need to be deformed slightly sideways to get jammed.<br />
Luckily, if you have this problem, most built-in card readers are easy to pull apart and repair; some users have even reported succesfully unjamming the switch with a blast of compressed air from a can into the SD-card slot without having to dismantle anything.<br />
You may also be able to temporarily get round the problem by putting the write-protect tab in a half-way position - this pushes on a different part of the strip and may break the contact - it's worth trying a few, slightly different positions. You could also use a USB-SD card adaptor, which are cheap to buy.<br />
<br />
==Networking==<br />
<br />
===Ethernet connection is lost when a USB device is plugged in===<br />
This is often caused by inadequate power. Use a good power supply and a good power cable. Some cheap cables that work with a cell phone, cannot fully power the R-Pi. Some USB devices require a lot of power (>100 mA), so they must be used with a powered USB hub. Some cheap USB hubs suck power from the Raspberry Pi even if a USB power supply is connected. (More often than not, however, the reverse is true with cheap hubs—the Pi draws just enough power backwards from the powered hub to unsuccessfully attempt booting.)<br />
<br />
There is an ongoing issue with the Ethernet connection being lost when low-speed devices, such as mice or keyboards are connected via a powered USB hub. The simplest way to solve this is to connect your mouse and keyboard directly into the 2 USB ports on the R-Pi (assuming they draw less than 100 mA apiece).<br />
<br />
===Ethernet connects at 10M instead of 100M===<br />
The LED in the corner of the board labelled "10M" is mislabeled. When that LED is on, the R-Pi is actually connected at 100 Mbps. You can confirm the true transfer rate using a network benchmark such as iperf. You can also read the current network speed with<br />
cat /sys/class/net/eth0/speed<br />
<br />
===Cannot ssh in to Pi===<br />
<br />
In the Debian image, ssh is disabled by default. Boot commands are taken from /boot/boot.rc if that file present. There is an example file named '''boot_enable_ssh.rc''' that enables ssh. So:<br />
<br />
sudo mv /boot/boot_enable_ssh.rc /boot/boot.rc<br />
<br />
and reboot should enable ssh. (password as below)<br />
<br />
===Network/USB chip gets too hot to touch===<br />
<br />
This is normal. In open air at 24 C, the LAN9512 Ethernet/USB chip reaches about 52 C after some time. This is too hot to touch for more than a few seconds, but it is not unusually hot for the chip.<br />
<br />
The <br />
[http://www.smsc.com/media/Downloads_Public/Data_Sheets/9512.pdf LAN9512 data sheet] in Table 4.1 on p.40 says it comes in two versions, rated for operation at an ambient temperature in still air (Ta) of 70 C (commercial) or 85 C (industrial). It uses 763 mW at 3.3V with maximum traffic on 100baseT and both USB ports (Table 4.3.4, p. 42).<br />
<br />
There is a study of RasPi heat profiles by "Remy" at [http://www.geektopia.es/es/technology/2012/06/22/articulos/se-calienta-el-ordenador-raspberry-pi-estudio-de-sus-temperaturas-en-funcionamiento.html ¿Se calienta el ordenador Raspberry Pi? Estudio de sus temperaturas en funcionamiento] (''Is the Raspberry Pi computer getting hot? A study of its operational temperature.'') The Spanish article has numerous color temperature images of RasPi in various operational modes, with the highest LAN9512 case temperature measured as 64.5 C.<br />
<br />
===Networking no longer works when changing SD card between two Raspberry Pis===<br />
<br />
In some distributions, /etc/udev/rules.d/70-persistent-net.rules remembers which MAC address is associated with eth0, so each new device will be assigned as a different interface (eth1, eth2, etc.) due to the different MAC addresses. Editing /etc/udev/rules.d/70-persistent-net.rules to remove the invalid rules and rebooting may help fix the problem.<br />
<br />
===Crashes occur with high network load===<br />
<br />
The USB driver allocates memory from the kernel, and when traffic is very high (e.g. when using torrents/newsgroup downloads) this memory can be exhausted causing crashes/hangs. You should have a line like:<br />
<br />
vm.min_free_kbytes = 8192<br />
<br />
in /etc/sysctl.conf. Try increasing that number to 16384 (or higher). If that doesn't work, try adding to /boot/cmdline.txt<br />
<br />
smsc95xx.turbo_mode=N<br />
<br />
which will reduce network throughput, but has improved stability issues for some.<br />
<br />
===Network connection fails when a Graphical User Interface is being used===<br />
<br />
The network connection may fail when the command startx is used to enter a Graphical User Interface. This is caused by a bug in the USB driver related to certain types of USB mouse.<br />
<br />
As of 1 September 2012, this fault is fixed in the latest firmware. To load the latest firmware, see<br />
[http://elinux.org/R-Pi_Troubleshooting#Updating_firmware http://elinux.org/R-Pi_Troubleshooting#Updating_firmware]<br />
<br />
==Passwords==<br />
===I do not know the password to login===<br />
Please check the page [http://www.raspberrypi.org/downloads http://www.raspberrypi.org/downloads] for the correct username and password for each image.<br />
<br />
Here are the most common username/password combinations:<br />
*Debian after Feb 2012: pi/raspberry<br />
*Debian 17 Feb 2012: pi/suse<br />
*Arch: root/root<br />
*Bodhi: pi/bodhilinux<br />
<br />
===Some programs refuse to accept my password===<br />
While using Debian, some programs may ask for your password but refuse to accept a valid password.<br />
<br />
This is a fault in old Debian images previous to September 2012. If you are using an image with this fault, upgrade to a more modern image or enter the following command on the command line.<br />
gconftool-2 --type bool --set /apps/gksu/sudo-mode true<br />
Please enter this command carefully, the spaces are important. The command should be accepted without any response or errors.<br />
<br />
===I don't know the root password===<br />
<br />
There is no root password set by default on Debian. You are expected to do everything through sudo. You can set one with "sudo passwd root" - just make sure you know what you are doing with a root account.<br />
<br />
==Sound==<br />
===Sound does not work with an HDMI monitor===<br />
This is caused by some computer monitors which select DVI mode even if an HDMI cable is connected. This fix may be necessary even if other HDMI devices work perfectly on the same monitor (or TV)!<br />
<br />
Edit the configuration file - see the instructions at [[R-Pi_ConfigurationFile]].<br />
<br />
Add the following line to the configuration file:<br />
hdmi_drive=2<br />
<br />
This will force it to select HDMI mode.<br />
<br />
<br />
'''More reasons why sound does not work with an HDMI monitor'''<br />
<br />
With an HDMI connection it might be possible to hear:<br />
./hello_audio.bin 1<br />
but not:<br />
aplay /usr/share/sounds/alsa/Front_Center.wav<br />
<br />
Firstly, it seems that some HD TVs mute audible sound output when there is no digital input, and slowly fade the sound up and down at the start and end of digital input. This means that short duration sounds will not be heard. A work around is to play longer duration wav files.<br />
<br />
Secondly, it seems that some HD TVs mute audible sound output when there is only one channel of digital input. So, as the file Front_Center.wav is mono, it might not be heard. ALSA aplay uses the file information header to configure its digital output. And the aplay -c 2 option does not over-ride the settings aplay picks up from the file information header. So, if your HD TV doesn't accept just one channel of digital input, you cannot use aplay to hear a mono wav file. However, with the command speaker-test, the -c2 option does work, and sets 2 channels in the digital stream. So speaker-test can be used to hear the file Front_Center.wav in either the left or right speaker using the -s option 1 or 2. <br />
For example<br />
Speaker-test -c 2 -s 1 -t wav -W /usr/share/sounds/alsa -w Front_Center.wav<br />
should be heard on the left speaker. But note that the command speaker-test seems only to like mono wav files, and seems not to play stereo wav files.<br />
<br />
The command aplay plays 2 channel stereo wav files in stereo sound without problem (provided they last longer than the time it takes the TV to unmute and remute). A helpful example I found is the stereo file LRMonoPhase4.wav at the Kozco web site [http://www.kozco.com/tech/soundtests.html]<br />
<br />
===Sound does not work at all, or in some applications===<br />
In Debian Squeeze, sound is disabled by default because the ALSA sound driver is still "alpha" (not fully tested) on the R-Pi. To try out sound, from the command prompt ''before'' "startx", type<br />
<br />
sudo apt-get install alsa-utils<br />
sudo modprobe snd_bcm2835<br />
<br />
On Debian Wheezy, snd_bm2835 is enabled, by default, do that step is not necessary. Next try:<br />
<br />
sudo aplay /usr/share/sounds/alsa/Front_Center.wav<br />
<br />
By default output will be automatic (hdmi if hdmi supports audio, otherwise analogue). You can force it with:<br />
<br />
sudo amixer cset numid=3 <n><br />
<br />
where n is 0=auto, 1=headphones, 2=hdmi.<br />
<br />
With recent firmware, you can build hello_audio with:<br />
cd /opt/vc/src/hello_pi/<br />
./rebuild.sh<br />
cd hello_audio<br />
<br />
With older firmware<br />
cd /opt/vc/src/hello_pi/hello_audio<br />
make<br />
<br />
to test analogue output:<br />
./hello_audio.bin<br />
and:<br />
./hello_audio.bin 1<br />
to test HDMI.<br />
<br />
Also note that you may have to add your user to the 'audio' group to get permission to access the sound card.<br />
<br />
==Display==<br />
===Startx fails to start===<br />
If you just get errors instead of a desktop when typing<br />
startx<br />
you may be out of storage space on the SD card. By default there are only a few hundred MB free in the 2 GB main partition, which can quickly fill up if you download files. Make sure there is some space free (gparted can expand a partition, if the SD card is > 2GB). Also, installing some software may incorrectly create or modify a .Xauthority file in your home directory, causing startx to fail, according to [http://www.raspberrypi.org/forum/troubleshooting/startx-fails-worked-yesterday this thread]. Temporarily renaming, moving, or deleting that file may fix the problem.<br />
<br />
===Screen is the wrong color===<br />
Check and see if the DVI cable is screwed in properly. If that doesn't work then try [[#Interference_visible_on_a_HDMI_or_DVI_monitor|this]] section.<br />
<br />
===Video does not play or plays very slowly===<br />
The only hardware-accelerated video player is in the [http://www.raspberrypi.org/forum/general-discussion/openelec-meets-raspberry-pi-part-1-xbmc XBMC distribution] and its command line variant [[omxplayer]]. H264 is the only hardware-accelerated codec, for playback. No hardware encoding is supported. Additional codecs were not purchased as licensing fees would have increased the R-Pi's price.<br />
<br />
===Can only get 800x480 resolution in LXDE (Arch linux)===<br />
Known issue with distro package as of 17th April 2012 - there's some missing boot config information. Creating a suitable cmdline.txt fixes it - type the following at the Raspberry Pi command line:<br />
<br />
<pre><br />
sudo echo "dwc_otg.lpm_enable=0 console=ttyAMA0,115200 kgdboc=ttyAMA0,115200 root=/dev/mmcblk0p2 rootfstype=ext3 rootwait" >/boot/cmdline.txt<br />
</pre><br />
<br />
===Big black borders around small image on HD monitors===<br />
<br />
Out of the box, R-Pi graphics don't necessarily fill the whole screen. This is due to something called "Underscan", and it can be fixed easily.<br />
<br />
Note: the best solution is to disable overscan in display menu options (it may be called "just scan", "screen fit", "HD size", "full pixel", "unscaled", "dot by dot", "native" or "1:1"), then use the disable_overscan=1 option.<br />
<br />
Edit the configuration file, see the instructions at [[R-Pi_ConfigurationFile]].<br />
<br />
Add the following lines to the configuration file...<br />
<br />
If your display has no overscan:<br />
<br />
<pre><br />
<br />
disable_overscan=1<br />
<br />
</pre><br />
<br />
or if your display has some overscan:<br />
<br />
<pre><br />
<br />
overscan_left=-20<br />
<br />
overscan_right=-20<br />
<br />
overscan_top=-20<br />
<br />
overscan_bottom=-20<br />
<br />
</pre><br />
<br />
Making the R-Pi graphics fill the screen is a matter of experimenting with the numbers you put in the config.txt file. Change the numbers – try jumps of 5 or 10 at a time. Bigger negative numbers reduce the black borders (so -40 means less black border than -20). The numbers do not all have to be the same; you can use this feature to centre the display on the screen.<br />
<br />
===Writing spills off the screen on HD monitors===<br />
<br />
Out of the box, R-Pi graphics may be larger than the 1080p (ie Full HD) screen. This is due to something called "Overscan", and it can be fixed easily by creating a simple text file on the R-Pi SD card by using Notepad on your PC.<br />
<br />
Follow the instructions in the section "Big black borders around small image on HD monitors", but use positive numbers for the overscan settings, for example<br />
<pre><br />
<br />
overscan_left=20<br />
<br />
overscan_right=20<br />
<br />
overscan_top=20<br />
<br />
overscan_bottom=20<br />
<br />
</pre><br />
<br />
===Interference visible on a HDMI or DVI monitor===<br />
This may be caused by loss of signal on long video cables. The signal level may be increased by changing a configuration parameter.<br />
<br />
[[File:RPi_HDMI_interference.jpg|600px]]<br />
<br />
Edit the configuration file, see the instructions at [[R-Pi_ConfigurationFile]].<br />
<br />
Add the following line to the configuration file<br />
config_hdmi_boost=4<br />
<br />
You may experiment with different values of config_hdmi_boost. Value 1 is used for very short cables, value 7 is used for very long cables. At your own risk, you can go up to 11, but risk frying a sensitive monitor. <br />
<br />
Note that various adapters, such as HDMI-to-DVI, can also cause power loss and therefore require high values of config_hdmi_boost even with short cables.<br />
<br />
This option can also help when there is no display output at all, the display periodically blanks, or colours are wrong/inverted.<br />
<br />
This symptom can also be caused by RasPi +5V (measured from TP1 to TP2) falling too low. See [[#Troubleshooting_power_problems|Troubleshooting Power Problems]].<br />
<br />
===No HDMI output at all===<br />
First make sure the display is powered on and switched to the right input before booting Pi.<br />
<br />
If you have the [http://www.raspberrypi.org/archives/1435 Wheezy] image (recommended) then try<br />
hdmi_safe=1<br />
<br />
Otherwise, try adding the following line to the configuration file (similar to interference case above)<br />
config_hdmi_boost=4<br />
<br />
Your monitor/cable may not be asserting the hotplug signal. You can override this with:<br />
hdmi_force_hotplug=1<br />
<br />
Also [http://www.raspberrypi.org/phpBB3/viewtopic.php?f=28&t=7513 try] the following video options:<br />
hdmi_group=2<br />
hdmi_mode=4<br />
which resolved an issue with DVI monitor reporting "input signal out of range"<br />
<br />
As a last resort, try deleting (rename to keep backup) config.txt from the SD card.<br />
<br />
Also check that the RasPi +5V voltage (measured from TP1 to TP2) is in the correct range. One user found that his DVI-D monitor blanked out when +5V was too low. See [[#Troubleshooting_power_problems|Troubleshooting Power Problems]].<br />
<br />
Here's a rare cause: A standard HDMI cable has five individual ground wires plus a shield. Some cheap HDMI cables do not implement the individual grounds and just have a common foil shield that's connected to the HDMI plug shells at both ends. This works OK in most HDMI applications since most HDMI sources (like RasPi) and most monitors connect the shells to circuit ground. However, some HDMI or DVI monitors may requires individual ground lines. You can tell if an HDMI cable implements the individual grounds by checking for continuity using an Ohmmeter or multimeter. You can find the HDMI pinout for full-size connectors at [http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/HDMI Wikipedia].<br />
<br />
===Composite displays no image===<br />
The output display will default to HDMI if a HDMI display is connected, and composite if not. Make sure there isn't a HDMI cable connected when you want to use composite output.<br />
<br />
Also, check that your TV is set to the correct input, normally marked "AV". If your TV has multiple AV inputs, try all of the inputs, normally by pressing a button marked "AV" or "Input" or "Source" or "->O" on the remote control.<br />
<br />
===Composite displays only black and white image===<br />
The composite display defaults to NTSC (American) output. Most TVs will show an image with that, but older PAL (European) televisions may display only back and white or no image. To fix this:<br />
<br />
Edit the configuration file, see the instructions at [[R-Pi_ConfigurationFile]].<br />
<br />
Add the following line to the configuration file<br />
sdtv_mode=2<br />
<br />
(You can try other values: 0 is NTSC, 1 is Japanese NTSC, 2 is PAL, 3 is Brazilian PAL)<br />
<br />
===HDMI -> VGA adapters===<br />
Some good information can be found here:<br />
* [[RPi_VerifiedPeripherals#HDMI-.3EVGA_converter_boxes]]<br />
* [http://www.raspberrypi.org/phpBB3/viewtopic.php?f=28&t=9819 (RPi forum) Serious HDMI Problems. What's that smell? Burning Raspberry!]<br />
<br />
A commonly used adapter from Ebay: gallery with detailed images & steps of a modification to use external power source: [http://imgur.com/a/sLogs/all HERE] --''by [[User:Pinoccio|Pinoccio]]''<br />
<br />
==GPIO==<br />
Remember that the GPIO pins are 3.3V logic level only, and are <strong>NOT</strong> 5V tolerant.<br />
<br />
If you momentarily shorted the two end GPIO pins together (+3.3V and +5V), or a supply pin to ground, and the Pi appears to be dead, don't panic. The input polyfuse may have tripped. It is self-resetting after it cools down and the polymer re-crystallizes, which can take several hours. Set the Pi aside and try again later.<br />
<br />
The GPIO pins connect directly into the core of the ARM processer, and are static-sensitive, so you should avoid touching the pins wherever possible. If you are carrying a static charge, for example by taking off an acrylic pullover, or walking across a nylon carpet, touching the GPIO pins could destroy your R-Pi, so always earth yourself before touching the pins or anything connected to them.<br />
<br />
==General==<br />
===The time is incorrect===<br />
If the clock is off by a series of hours, in the command line type:<br />
sudo dpkg-reconfigure tzdata<br />
<br />
The R-Pi has no real-time clock, so unless it can access a timeserver over the network at boot, or time is manually entered by the user, the time/date will restart counting from the last logged time in the previous session.<br />
<br />
===A part broke off===<br />
<br />
The silver cylinder near the microUSB power input is a 220 uF capacitor ("C6" on schematic). It sticks up and due to the small surface-mount pads, it is easy to break off; several people have done so. This is a power supply filter capacitor which reduces any noise and spikes on the input +5V power. If you like, you can solder it back on, or just leave it off. If you do solder it back on, take care to observe the correct polarity with the black stripe towards the board edge. This part, C6 is a "just in case" component which is good design practice to include, but [http://www.raspberrypi.org/phpBB3/viewtopic.php?f=2&t=4926| as it turns out] most power supplies still work OK without this part installed. This part is also [http://elinux.org/RPi_Hardware#Capacitor_C6 discussed here].<br />
<br />
===Unable to install new software===<br />
When trying to install a software package (using the command sudo apt-get install xxxx) you may see the error<br />
Package yyyy is not available<br />
This means that your software list is out of date. Before attempting to install software, you should always make sure that you are using the latest software list by using the command<br />
sudo apt-get update<br />
<br />
==Troubleshooting power problems==<br />
<br />
If you think you have a problem with your power supply, it is a good idea to check the actual voltage<br />
on the Raspberry Pi circuit board. Two test points labelled TP1 and TP2 are provided on the circuit board<br />
to facilitate voltage measurements.<br />
<br />
Use a multimeter which is set to the range 20 volts DC (or 20v =). You should see a voltage between 4.75 and 5.25 volts. Anything outside this range indicates that you have a problem with your power supply or your power cable.<br />
<br />
If you have not used a multimeter before, see these [[http://www.sparkfun.com/tutorials/202 basic instructions]]<br />
<br />
Note: Even if the multimeter shows the correct voltage, you may have some power supply problems. A multimeter only displays the average voltage. If there are very short-lived dips or spikes in the voltage, these will not be shown by the multimeter. It is best to measure voltage when Pi is busy.<br />
<br />
If your voltage is low, it could be:<br />
* The power supply produces too low a voltage<br />
* The power supply cannot supply enough current, which results in a voltage drop. Make sure Power supply is labelled as at least 700mA. (Some cheap power supplies don't deliver what is labelled).<br />
* The Micro USB power cable is low quality. Some Micro USB cables have very thin conductors, resulting in enough voltage drop for RasPi to fail even if the power supply itself is fine. For details, see [[On_the_RPi_usb_power_cable]].<br />
* Attached USB devices want too much power. The Pi is only designed for up to 100mA USB devices. A USB device wanting more that that will cause a voltage drop.<br />
* The F3 Polyfuse could be blown or bad, see below for how to test.<br />
Note: keyboards with LCD displays, built in USB hubs, backlights, etc are likely to be problematic. Try to use a basic one. Wifi dongles are also unlikely to work when directly connected. Connect high powered USB devices to a powered USB hub.<br />
<br />
Try booting without HDMI, ethernet or USB deviced plugged in, and see if the voltage improves.<br />
See also: [[RPi_Hardware#Power_Supply_Problems| Power Supply Problems]]<br />
<br />
[[File:RPI_Test_Points.JPG|400px]] [[File:Voltmeter.JPG|250px]]<br />
<br />
<br />
'''How to test the F3 polyfuse<ref>http://www.raspberrypi.org/phpBB3/viewtopic.php?f=26&t=22318</ref>'''<br />
<br />
# Remove all the things plugged into your Raspberry Pi, including SD card.<br />
# Locate the TP2 test point on the top of the board.<br />
# Turn your board over and find the TP2 test point on the bottom of the board. One lead of your multi-meter will always be on the TP2 point on the bottom of the board for all tests.<br />
# Plug your power supply into the micro usb port and power your board.<br />
# Place one lead of your multi-meter on the TP2 point on the bottom of the board and one lead on the side of the F3 fuse closest to the edge of the board. Note the voltage. This is the voltage coming into your RPi from your power supply.<br />
# Keeping one lead on TP2, move the other lead to the side of F3 closest to the SD card slot. This is the voltage coming out of the F3 fuse.<br />
<br />
[[File:F3-testing.jpg|none|frame|Multi-meter lead placement for testing the Raspberry Pi F3 Polyfuse]]<br />
<br />
If the voltage is different by more than about 0.03v - 0.10v you have a problem with the F3 fuse.<br />
<br />
When polyfuses "blow" their resistance increases dramatically, there by limiting the voltage that can pass through them. If your power problem suddenly appeared after your board was known to be working fine, it is probable the fuse is just "blown" and will return to normal. It can take 24 hours for the resistance to go back down to normal so leave it unpowered and check it again in 24 hours. If your power problem has been since the first time you plugged in your board, the fuse was probably bad when it arrived and should be returned to place you purchased it.<br />
<br />
If you prefer to make your own PSU - see: [[RPi_5V_PSU_construction| Power Supply construction - HowTo]]<br />
<br />
==Hardware versions/revisions==<br />
Several different boards have been found probably from different assembly lines, and the following tables try to help you identify your board for better troubleshooting.<br />
<br />
Look for the date of manufacturing printed with the year and week. In this example year (2012) and week (18th):[[File:Date_of_manufacturing.jpg|200px|thumb|right]]<br />
<br />
For what we can see for model B boards there are mainly two versions that differ on the type RAM used, Samsung (S) and Hynix (H).<br />
<br />
For '''Board ver'''. we used: <model><RAM Maker><production date> (ex.: BS1218 is "Model B, Samsung RAM, 18th week of 2012")<br />
<br />
Model A:<br />
{| border="1" class="wikitable"<br />
|-<br />
! Board<br />
ver.<br />
! RAM<br />
Chip <br />
! USB<br />
Chip <br />
! Front<br />
! Back<br />
|-<br />
| <br />
| <br />
| <br />
| <br />
| <br />
|}<br />
<br />
<br />
Model B:<br />
{| border="1" class="wikitable"<br />
|-<br />
! Board<br />
ver.<br />
! RAM<br />
Chip <br />
! USB<br />
Chip <br />
! Front<br />
! Back<br />
|-<br />
| BS12xx<br />
| Samsung<br />
| SMSC<br />
| [[File:RaspberryPi-Board_A-Front.JPG|200px|thumb|center]]<br />
| [[File:RaspberryPi-Board_A-Back.JPG|200px|thumb|center]]<br />
|-<br />
| BH12xx<br />
| Hynix<br />
| SMSC<br />
| [[File:RaspberryPi-Board_B-Front.JPG|200px|thumb|center]]<br />
| [[File:RaspberryPi-Board_B-Back.JPG|200px|thumb|center]]<br />
|}<br />
<br />
<big>See a '''complete list''' and user feedback here: [[RaspberryPi Boards]]</big><br />
<br />
=References= <br />
<references/><br />
<br />
{{Template:Raspberry Pi}}<br />
<br />
[[Category:RaspberryPi]]</div>Bgirardothttps://elinux.org/index.php?title=R-Pi_Troubleshooting&diff=195728R-Pi Troubleshooting2012-11-27T16:26:44Z<p>Bgirardot: Added info and graphic for testing the F3 polyfuse</p>
<hr />
<div>[[Category:RaspberryPi]]<br />
<br />
Back to the [[R-Pi Hub|Hub]].<br />
<br />
This page lists the most common problems and suggests some solutions.<br />
<br />
See [[RPi_Bugs]] for problems that are bugs.<br />
<br />
==Power / Start-up==<br />
A good power supply that will supply 5V is vital. There is more information about See [[#Troubleshooting_power_problems]].<br />
<br />
Note that the PI has no BIOS, so nothing will be displayed on screen unless the PI successfully boots!<br />
<br />
===Red power LED does not light, nothing on display===<br />
The power is not properly connected.<br />
<br />
===Red power LED is blinking===<br />
The red power LED should never blink, because it is hard-wired to the 3.3V power supply rail. If it is blinking, as one user has reported<ref>http://www.raspberrypi.org/phpBB3/viewtopic.php?f=28&t=7528</ref> it means the 5V power supply is dropping out. Use a different power supply.<br />
<br />
===Red power LED is on, green LED does not flash, nothing on display===<br />
''note; For technical reasons the green LED might light up very faintly, this is normal, but it doesn't mean it "burns". When flashing/blinking the green LED should light up as bright as the power LED.''<br />
*The Raspberry Pi cannot find a valid image on the SD card. Check card is inserted correctly. Check that you have correctly written a Raspberry Pi image to the card. Did you have admin rights when you used the SD-card writer software? Without it the software might go through the motions without actually doing anything! To check if the writing process did actually happen Insert the SD card into a Windows machine and you should see bootcode.bin, fixup.dat and start.elf amongst others. See also, [[RPi_VerifiedPeripherals#SD_cards|Known SD Cards]]. It is also possible that the image you are writing to the card is corrupt, as downloads do occasionally end up corrupted or truncated. You can check with the checksum utility if your download is correct.<br />
<br />
*Try with no cables connected except the USB power lead, and SD card inserted. You should see flashing of the OK light for ~20 seconds. If that helps, plug in cables one at a time to identify which is interfering with boot.<br />
<br />
*Confirm the USB cable is properly seated in the power slot. The red power LED does not necessarily mean it is fully connected.<br />
<br />
*The voltage is too low (below 5 V), try a different power supply and/or cable. The R-Pi needs a supply rated for 700 mA or more. Some supplies labeled as such cannot actually provide their rated current while maintaining 5V. See also, [[#Troubleshooting_power_problems]].<br />
<br />
*There may be a bug in the distributed version of bootcode.bin which causes problems with some sdcards. Try this version: https://github.com/raspberrypi/firmware/blob/234c19de7cbaaf4997671d61df20a05759066295/boot/bootcode.bin. Please let us know if it "fixes" your non-working SD card (or, more importantly, if it doesn't). This can also manifest itself as intermittent booting, or only booting when cold.<br />
<br />
*''(unlikely)'' hardware abuse, for example by connecting a 7 V supply to a 3v3 GPIO output pin<ref>http://www.raspberrypi.org/phpBB3/viewtopic.php?f=6&t=5096&p=76503#p76503</ref> or powering up the board after a solder splash shorts some traces<ref>http://www.raspberrypi.org/phpBB3/viewtopic.php?f=6&t=5096&p=76654#p76654</ref>.<br />
<br />
*Look at the SD card holder on the Raspberry Pi carefully. At first glance it may look fine but the contacts must be springy and they must protrude at least 2mm as measured from the lower edge of the holder to the top of the contact bulge. This happens due to the solder process and the type of holder used. Some of the solder residue falls into the contact cavity restricting the springiness and the height that the contact protrudes. You can fix this yourself but remember you can void your warranty. The contacts are delicate so be carefull. Insert a needle pin under the contact bulge and pull lightly up until the one end of the contact unclips. Clean the cavity where the contact unclipped from of any solder or other residue by blowing into the cavity. Clip the contact back into the cavity by lightly pushing it into the cavity. Do this for all the contacts. Look at these photos. [[Media:SDcardHolder.JPG]], [[Media:UnclipContact.JPG]], [[Media:UnclippedContact.JPG]]<br />
<br />
*If for whatever reason the main polyfuse F3 has been overheated previously it may happen that it hasn't completely recovered, in which case, if you turn the PI on, a considerable amount of energy from the power supply is lost in the fuse and doesn't reach the PI. Try if the polyfuse seems hot. For this problem too read [[#Troubleshooting_power_problems]].<br />
<br />
===Green LED blinks in a specific pattern===<br />
<br />
With recent firmware, according to [http://www.raspberrypi.org/phpBB3/viewtopic.php?f=28&t=8725#p103338 this forum post] the green light will blink in a specific pattern to indicate some types of errors:<br />
<br />
* 3 flashes: <tt>loader.bin</tt> not found<br />
* 4 flashes: <tt>loader.bin</tt> not launched<br />
* 5 flashes: <tt>start.elf</tt> not found<br />
* 6 flashes: <tt>start.elf</tt> not launched<br />
* 7 flashes: <tt>kernel.img</tt> not found<br />
<br />
Firmware since 20th October 2012 no longer requires loader.bin, and the flashes mean:<br />
<br />
* 3 flashes: <tt>start.elf</tt> not found<br />
* 4 flashes: <tt>start.elf</tt> not launched<br />
* 7 flashes: <tt>kernel.img</tt> not found<br />
<br />
If start.elf won't launch it may be corrupt.<br />
<br />
===Coloured splash screen===<br />
[[File:Debug-screen.jpg]]<br />
<br />
With recent firmware, a coloured splash screen is displayed after firmware (start.elf) is loaded. This should be replaced by linux console a second later.<br />
However if the coloured screen remains, it suggests the kernel.img file is failing to boot. Try replacing it with a known good one.<br />
<br />
Immediately after displaying the splash screen, the PI starts consuming a little more current, if the PI resets at that moment its an indication that your PSU isn't able to deliver the full current your PI requires, but dips its output voltage below a minimum when loaded with the full current the PI needs.<br />
<br />
===Kernel Panic on boot ===<br />
Text appears on screen, but then hangs with debug messages. This can be caused by USB devices such as keyboards. <br />
Try again with nothing in the USB.<br />
<br />
===Raspberry Pi shuts down (or restarts) soon after booting up===<br />
This is caused by a power supply producing too low a voltage. See [[#Troubleshooting_power_problems]].<br />
<br />
===Pi boots sometimes but not always===<br />
With a known good power supply and known good SD card, the R-Pi boots occasionally, but other times shows only a tiny green flicker from the "OK" LED and it fails to start, even with no USB devices and no Ethernet. This has been reported several times<ref>http://www.raspberrypi.org/forum/troubleshooting/will-not-boot-consistently-any-suggestions-before-i-send-my-pi-back</ref><br />
<ref>http://www.raspberrypi.org/forum/troubleshooting/booted-once-wont-work-again</ref><br />
<ref>http://www.raspberrypi.org/forum/troubleshooting/possible-fault-pi-boots-sometimes-but-not-always</ref> and remains an open issue. Low voltage or an improper SD card can cause it. Some SD cards will work until they warm up slightly, and then fail<ref>http://www.raspberrypi.org/phpBB3/viewtopic.php?f=6&t=5900&p=79008#p79008</ref>. When exposed to 21 C room temperature the warmest part of an uncased working R-Pi should be 41 C<ref>http://www.raspberrypi.org/phpBB3/viewtopic.php?f=6&t=5900&p=78973#p78973</ref>. The wiki has a [[RPi_VerifiedPeripherals#SD_cards | list of working SD cards]]. Buy from a reliable vendor as it has been [http://www.petapixel.com/2011/05/20/one-third-of-the-sandisk-memory-cards-on-earth-are-counterfeit/ claimed] that 1/3 of all "Sandisk" labelled memory cards are counterfeit.<br />
*It could be that the SD memory card is not making proper contact with the Raspberry Pi. Look at the SD card holder on the Raspberry Pi carefully. At first glance it may look fine but the contacts must be springy and they must protrude at least 2mm as measured fron the lower edge of the holder to the top of the contact bulge. This happens due to the solder process and the type of holder used. Some of the solder residue falls into the contact cavity restricting the springiness and the height that the contact protrudes. You can fix this yourself but remember you can void your warranty. The contacts are delicate so be carefull. Insert a needle pin under the contact bulge and pull lightly up until the one end of the contact unclips. Clean the cavity where the contact unclipped from of any solder or other residue by blowing into the cavity. Clip the contact back into the cavity by lightly pushing it into the cavity. Do this for all the contacts. Look at these photos. [[Media:SDcardHolder.JPG]], [[Media:UnclipContact.JPG]], [[Media:UnclippedContact.JPG]]<br />
<br />
==Keyboard / Mouse / Input Devices==<br />
<br />
===R-Pi does not respond to key presses / Keyboard randomly repeats key presses===<br />
''note:during entering the password most linux distro's wont show that you typed in anything (not even "*" characters) this is normal behaviour, try the keyboard while entering the user name!''<br />
<br />
This is most often caused by inadequate power. Use a good power supply and a good power cable. Some cheap cables that work with a cell phone, cannot fully power the R-Pi. Some USB devices require a lot of power: most will have a label showing the voltage and mA requirements. They should be 5v 100mA each max, any more than this they must be used with a powered USB hub. Try unplugging every USB device except the keyboard (you should also note that some keyboards have built in hubs and can try to draw 150mA (Pi can only handle 100mA per USB slot without a hub)).<br />
Also, use the latest software. Forum user MrEngman [http://www.raspberrypi.org/forum/absolute-beginners/using-a-powered-usb-port-to-power-a-rpi#p76485 reported] some keyboard repeats and wireless hangs until [http://www.raspberrypi.org/downloads upgrading] to the debian6-19-04-2012 kernel, which he reports stable with no problems even with a low [[R-Pi_Troubleshooting#Troubleshooting_power_problems | TP1-TP2 voltage]] of 4.65 - 4.68 volts.<br />
<br />
Some users have reported that their keyboards work fine on Arch linux, but on Debian distro's, their keyboards become erratic (repeats and/or skips key presses). One suggested remedy to this, which has some positive feedback, is to adjust the USB bus speed. To do this, you need to edit the cmdline.txt file, and add "dwc_otg.speed=1" (without quotes) to the end of the file (found in the /boot directory).<br />
<br />
Worst case scenario, some (advanced) keyboards, such as the Roccat Arvo, have kernel modules that need activating. If you have access to another keyboard temporarily, you will need to modprobe the relevent driver. Or if this is not possible, you can rebuild the kernel (instructions available on the wiki page) with the modules installed. (to find the drivers for keyboards etc, you need to find "Device Drivers -> hid Devices".)<br />
<br />
===Keyboard / Mouse interferes with USB WiFi device===<br />
Connecting a keyboard and/or mouse while a USB WiFi device is connected, may cause one or both devices to malfunction. On April 30 2012, there was a bugfix<ref>https://github.com/raspberrypi/linux/commit/e09244e60881148431ecd016ccc42f1fa0678556</ref> relating to USB sharing between high-speed (eg. WiFi) and full/low-speed devices (eg. keyboard/mouse). User spennig<ref>http://www.raspberrypi.org/forum/troubleshooting/usb-power-hub-wifi/page-4#p74609</ref><ref>http://www.raspberrypi.org/forum/troubleshooting/success-with-kb-mouse-wifi?value=3761&type=8&include=1&search=1</ref> reports this patch did not fix the Mouse/WiFi conflict. On 2012-05-12, user spennig was pleased to confirm that wifi was working with a USB keyboard and mouse, as long as the Raspberry Pi had a good PSU and a powered hub. Even so, some experimentation was needed, e.g. USB WiFi connected to the device, and the keyboard and mouse connected to the powered hub. Some experimentation may be necessary to find a working combination; however a good power supply is essential.<br />
<br />
===Wireless Keyboard trouble===<br />
Some wireless keyboards, for example the Microsoft Wireless Keyboard 800 are reported to fail<ref>http://www.raspberrypi.org/forum/troubleshooting/display-and-keyboard-issues-on-a-real-pi#p74816</ref> even though the current drawn by the wireless adaptor is within the R-Pi USB spec limit of 100 mA. This may be a software driver problem.<br />
<br />
===Re-mapping the keyboard with Debian Squeeze===<br />
If different letters appear on-screen from that which you typed, you need to reconfigure you keyboard settings. In Debian, from a command line type:<br />
sudo dpkg-reconfigure keyboard-configuration<br />
Follow the prompts. Then restart your RasPi.<br />'''Or:'''<br /> From the command line type:<br />
sudo nano /etc/default/keyboard<br />
Then find where it says <blockquote>XKBLAYOUT=”gb”</blockquote>and change the gb to the two letter code for your country. [http://www.raspberrypi.org/phpBB3/viewtopic.php?p=78325#p78325]<br />
<br />
===Slow keyboard mapping=== <br />
If you have remapped your keyboard and get a very long delay during the keyboard mapping at startup, type the following once on the command line after you have logged in:<br />
sudo setupcon<br />
<br />
===No USB device works, with known good PS, SD card, KB=== <br />
There has been more than one report<ref>http://www.raspberrypi.org/phpBB3/viewtopic.php?f=28&t=7533</ref><ref>http://www.raspberrypi.org/phpBB3/viewtopic.php?t=5766#p77576</ref><ref>http://www.raspberrypi.org/phpBB3/viewtopic.php?t=5766#p80995</ref> of a R-Pi booting but not getting USB input, using a known-good power supply, SD card, and keyboard. The more common cause for no USB devices working is [[#Troubleshooting_power_problems|low power supply voltage]] from bad PSU, cable, or USB hub, but in this case the problem was no clock signal present at the LAN9512 USB/Ethernet chip "IC3", and the solution was to reflow the solder on the 25 MHz crystal "X1" on the bottom side of the board.<br />
Or return the board for a replacement, but before making this conclusion, confirm known good peripherals. A significant number of <br />
[[RPi_VerifiedPeripherals#USB_Keyboards| USB keyboards]] are not compatible with R-Pi. As of June 1 2012, Eben reported<ref>http://www.raspberrypi.org/phpBB3/viewtopic.php?f=28&t=6822&p=89589&hilit=eben#p89513</ref> that only about 1 in 1000 shipped R-Pi boards have been found to have a hardware fault of any kind.<br />
<br />
== Updating firmware ==<br />
=== Check your firmware version ===<br />
Using the latest firmware version may help various problems with SD card and display compatibility. Check the kernel version with:<br />
uname -a<br />
Linux RPi 3.1.19 #1 PREEMPT Fri Jun 1 14:16:38 CEST 2012 armv6l GNU/Linux<br />
<br />
And the GPU firmware with:<br />
/opt/vc/bin/vcgencmd version<br />
May 31 2012 13:35:03<br />
Copyright (c) 2012 Broadcom<br />
version 317494 (release)<br />
<br />
=== Get the latest firmware version ===<br />
The GPU firmware and kernel can be updated with [https://github.com/Hexxeh/rpi-update Hexxeh's rpi-update tool].<br />
<br />
However this requires the Pi to be successfully booted. With sdcard problems, you may not get that far, so can try a manual udpate.<br />
If you have a Linux machine, rpi-update can be run on that in an offline mode, and will update your sdcard from the Linux machine.<br />
<br />
Otherwise, on a Windows computer, you will see the "/boot" partition appear as the contents of SD card. <br />
You can download the latest GPU firmware version [https://github.com/raspberrypi/firmware/blob/master/boot/start.elf here].<br />
Click on '''view raw''', then save it, and put the new start.elf file on the sdcard replacing the existing one. Similarly, the latest kernel is [https://github.com/raspberrypi/firmware/tree/master/boot/kernel.img here].<br />
After updating these files you should be able to boot. You still need to run rpi-update to update the kernel modules (in /lib/modules) and the GPU libraries (in /opt/vc).<br />
<br />
=== Choosing the right ARM/GPU memory split ===<br />
There is a choice of how the 256M/512M of RAM is divided between the ARM and GPU:<br />
gpu_mem=16 : 16M GPU, 240M/496M ARM split : Maximum ARM memory. Good for ARM desktop use. No accelerated video or 3D possible.<br />
gpu_mem=64 : 64M GPU, 192M/448M ARM split : Reasonable ARM memory. Simple video (omxplayer) or 3D (quake) is possible. This is the default.<br />
gpu_mem=128 : 128M GPU, 128M/384M ARM split : Use this for heavy 3D work, or 3D plus video. Needed for XBMC.<br />
<br />
To switch, edit the gpu_mem= setting in your config.txt and reboot.<br />
<br />
Note: other amounts are also possible, but setting gpu_mem=32 is usually the wrong choice. gpu_mem=16 is almost always a better choice.<br />
<br />
Also note that before the release of the 51MB PI a different method was used based on splitting the 256MB RAM in a part for the CPU and GPU. As this noting system was causing trouble if the amount of RAM was not always the same. the above new method was adapted.<br />
<br />
Make sure your editor doesn't change the first letter of the line into an uppercase letter, as some editors do. The entry is case sensitive.<br />
<br />
== SD cards ==<br />
<br />
* If you have problems, check you have latest firmware version (described above)<br />
* Some SD cards do not work on the R-Pi, so check the [[RPi_VerifiedPeripherals#SD_cards|list of known SD cards]].<br />
* If you are having problems setting up your SD card you might want to start by erasing it completely - especially if it has been used elsewhere and still contains data / partitions.<br />
** Windows and Mac users can download a formatting tool from the SD Association: https://www.sdcard.org/downloads/formatter_3/<br />
* Reformatting cards is also easy to do in a digital camera.<br />
* After writing the image to the SD card, verify that you can see the boot partition when you insert the SD card into your computer. The partition should contain a number of files, including ''start.elf'' and ''kernel.img''. If you do not see these files on the SD card, you have made an error writing the image file.<br />
* If you are manually preparing your SD card on Linux or Mac OS using the ''dd'' command, this operation will completely erase any existing data and partitions. Make sure you write to the whole card (e.g. <tt>/dev/sdd</tt>) and not to an existing partition (e.g. <tt>/dev/sdd1</tt>).<br />
* If you have an sdcard that doesn't work with latest firmware, head over [http://www.raspberrypi.org/phpBB3/viewtopic.php?f=63&t=6093 here].<br />
* If you put the SD card into your PC in an attempt to write the R-Pi operating system onto it, and the PC tells you the card is write-protected, even with the write-protect tab in the correct, forward position, then you may have a faulty SD-card rewriter. There's a common fault with many SD-card rewriters - The write-protect tab is detected by a very thin, narrow metal strip, that is part of a switch. When the card is inserted, the write-protect tab is supposed to push the strip and make/break the contact, as needed. Unfortunately, these strips have a habit of getting stuck, because they are mounted in a thin plastic channel, and only need to be deformed slightly sideways to get jammed.<br />
Luckily, if you have this problem, most built-in card readers are easy to pull apart and repair; some users have even reported succesfully unjamming the switch with a blast of compressed air from a can into the SD-card slot without having to dismantle anything.<br />
You may also be able to temporarily get round the problem by putting the write-protect tab in a half-way position - this pushes on a different part of the strip and may break the contact - it's worth trying a few, slightly different positions. You could also use a USB-SD card adaptor, which are cheap to buy.<br />
<br />
==Networking==<br />
<br />
===Ethernet connection is lost when a USB device is plugged in===<br />
This is often caused by inadequate power. Use a good power supply and a good power cable. Some cheap cables that work with a cell phone, cannot fully power the R-Pi. Some USB devices require a lot of power (>100 mA), so they must be used with a powered USB hub. Some cheap USB hubs suck power from the Raspberry Pi even if a USB power supply is connected. (More often than not, however, the reverse is true with cheap hubs—the Pi draws just enough power backwards from the powered hub to unsuccessfully attempt booting.)<br />
<br />
There is an ongoing issue with the Ethernet connection being lost when low-speed devices, such as mice or keyboards are connected via a powered USB hub. The simplest way to solve this is to connect your mouse and keyboard directly into the 2 USB ports on the R-Pi (assuming they draw less than 100 mA apiece).<br />
<br />
===Ethernet connects at 10M instead of 100M===<br />
The LED in the corner of the board labelled "10M" is mislabeled. When that LED is on, the R-Pi is actually connected at 100 Mbps. You can confirm the true transfer rate using a network benchmark such as iperf. You can also read the current network speed with<br />
cat /sys/class/net/eth0/speed<br />
<br />
===Cannot ssh in to Pi===<br />
<br />
In the Debian image, ssh is disabled by default. Boot commands are taken from /boot/boot.rc if that file present. There is an example file named '''boot_enable_ssh.rc''' that enables ssh. So:<br />
<br />
sudo mv /boot/boot_enable_ssh.rc /boot/boot.rc<br />
<br />
and reboot should enable ssh. (password as below)<br />
<br />
===Network/USB chip gets too hot to touch===<br />
<br />
This is normal. In open air at 24 C, the LAN9512 Ethernet/USB chip reaches about 52 C after some time. This is too hot to touch for more than a few seconds, but it is not unusually hot for the chip.<br />
<br />
The <br />
[http://www.smsc.com/media/Downloads_Public/Data_Sheets/9512.pdf LAN9512 data sheet] in Table 4.1 on p.40 says it comes in two versions, rated for operation at an ambient temperature in still air (Ta) of 70 C (commercial) or 85 C (industrial). It uses 763 mW at 3.3V with maximum traffic on 100baseT and both USB ports (Table 4.3.4, p. 42).<br />
<br />
There is a study of RasPi heat profiles by "Remy" at [http://www.geektopia.es/es/technology/2012/06/22/articulos/se-calienta-el-ordenador-raspberry-pi-estudio-de-sus-temperaturas-en-funcionamiento.html ¿Se calienta el ordenador Raspberry Pi? Estudio de sus temperaturas en funcionamiento] (''Is the Raspberry Pi computer getting hot? A study of its operational temperature.'') The Spanish article has numerous color temperature images of RasPi in various operational modes, with the highest LAN9512 case temperature measured as 64.5 C.<br />
<br />
===Networking no longer works when changing SD card between two Raspberry Pis===<br />
<br />
In some distributions, /etc/udev/rules.d/70-persistent-net.rules remembers which MAC address is associated with eth0, so each new device will be assigned as a different interface (eth1, eth2, etc.) due to the different MAC addresses. Editing /etc/udev/rules.d/70-persistent-net.rules to remove the invalid rules and rebooting may help fix the problem.<br />
<br />
===Crashes occur with high network load===<br />
<br />
The USB driver allocates memory from the kernel, and when traffic is very high (e.g. when using torrents/newsgroup downloads) this memory can be exhausted causing crashes/hangs. You should have a line like:<br />
<br />
vm.min_free_kbytes = 8192<br />
<br />
in /etc/sysctl.conf. Try increasing that number to 16384 (or higher). If that doesn't work, try adding to /boot/cmdline.txt<br />
<br />
smsc95xx.turbo_mode=N<br />
<br />
which will reduce network throughput, but has improved stability issues for some.<br />
<br />
===Network connection fails when a Graphical User Interface is being used===<br />
<br />
The network connection may fail when the command startx is used to enter a Graphical User Interface. This is caused by a bug in the USB driver related to certain types of USB mouse.<br />
<br />
As of 1 September 2012, this fault is fixed in the latest firmware. To load the latest firmware, see<br />
[http://elinux.org/R-Pi_Troubleshooting#Updating_firmware http://elinux.org/R-Pi_Troubleshooting#Updating_firmware]<br />
<br />
==Passwords==<br />
===I do not know the password to login===<br />
Please check the page [http://www.raspberrypi.org/downloads http://www.raspberrypi.org/downloads] for the correct username and password for each image.<br />
<br />
Here are the most common username/password combinations:<br />
*Debian after Feb 2012: pi/raspberry<br />
*Debian 17 Feb 2012: pi/suse<br />
*Arch: root/root<br />
*Bodhi: pi/bodhilinux<br />
<br />
===Some programs refuse to accept my password===<br />
While using Debian, some programs may ask for your password but refuse to accept a valid password.<br />
<br />
This is a fault in old Debian images previous to September 2012. If you are using an image with this fault, upgrade to a more modern image or enter the following command on the command line.<br />
gconftool-2 --type bool --set /apps/gksu/sudo-mode true<br />
Please enter this command carefully, the spaces are important. The command should be accepted without any response or errors.<br />
<br />
===I don't know the root password===<br />
<br />
There is no root password set by default on Debian. You are expected to do everything through sudo. You can set one with "sudo passwd root" - just make sure you know what you are doing with a root account.<br />
<br />
==Sound==<br />
===Sound does not work with an HDMI monitor===<br />
This is caused by some computer monitors which select DVI mode even if an HDMI cable is connected. This fix may be necessary even if other HDMI devices work perfectly on the same monitor (or TV)!<br />
<br />
Edit the configuration file - see the instructions at [[R-Pi_ConfigurationFile]].<br />
<br />
Add the following line to the configuration file:<br />
hdmi_drive=2<br />
<br />
This will force it to select HDMI mode.<br />
<br />
<br />
'''More reasons why sound does not work with an HDMI monitor'''<br />
<br />
With an HDMI connection it might be possible to hear:<br />
./hello_audio.bin 1<br />
but not:<br />
aplay /usr/share/sounds/alsa/Front_Center.wav<br />
<br />
Firstly, it seems that some HD TVs mute audible sound output when there is no digital input, and slowly fade the sound up and down at the start and end of digital input. This means that short duration sounds will not be heard. A work around is to play longer duration wav files.<br />
<br />
Secondly, it seems that some HD TVs mute audible sound output when there is only one channel of digital input. So, as the file Front_Center.wav is mono, it might not be heard. ALSA aplay uses the file information header to configure its digital output. And the aplay -c 2 option does not over-ride the settings aplay picks up from the file information header. So, if your HD TV doesn't accept just one channel of digital input, you cannot use aplay to hear a mono wav file. However, with the command speaker-test, the -c2 option does work, and sets 2 channels in the digital stream. So speaker-test can be used to hear the file Front_Center.wav in either the left or right speaker using the -s option 1 or 2. <br />
For example<br />
Speaker-test -c 2 -s 1 -t wav -W /usr/share/sounds/alsa -w Front_Center.wav<br />
should be heard on the left speaker. But note that the command speaker-test seems only to like mono wav files, and seems not to play stereo wav files.<br />
<br />
The command aplay plays 2 channel stereo wav files in stereo sound without problem (provided they last longer than the time it takes the TV to unmute and remute). A helpful example I found is the stereo file LRMonoPhase4.wav at the Kozco web site [http://www.kozco.com/tech/soundtests.html]<br />
<br />
===Sound does not work at all, or in some applications===<br />
In Debian Squeeze, sound is disabled by default because the ALSA sound driver is still "alpha" (not fully tested) on the R-Pi. To try out sound, from the command prompt ''before'' "startx", type<br />
<br />
sudo apt-get install alsa-utils<br />
sudo modprobe snd_bcm2835<br />
<br />
On Debian Wheezy, snd_bm2835 is enabled, by default, do that step is not necessary. Next try:<br />
<br />
sudo aplay /usr/share/sounds/alsa/Front_Center.wav<br />
<br />
By default output will be automatic (hdmi if hdmi supports audio, otherwise analogue). You can force it with:<br />
<br />
sudo amixer cset numid=3 <n><br />
<br />
where n is 0=auto, 1=headphones, 2=hdmi.<br />
<br />
With recent firmware, you can build hello_audio with:<br />
cd /opt/vc/src/hello_pi/<br />
./rebuild.sh<br />
cd hello_audio<br />
<br />
With older firmware<br />
cd /opt/vc/src/hello_pi/hello_audio<br />
make<br />
<br />
to test analogue output:<br />
./hello_audio.bin<br />
and:<br />
./hello_audio.bin 1<br />
to test HDMI.<br />
<br />
Also note that you may have to add your user to the 'audio' group to get permission to access the sound card.<br />
<br />
==Display==<br />
===Startx fails to start===<br />
If you just get errors instead of a desktop when typing<br />
startx<br />
you may be out of storage space on the SD card. By default there are only a few hundred MB free in the 2 GB main partition, which can quickly fill up if you download files. Make sure there is some space free (gparted can expand a partition, if the SD card is > 2GB). Also, installing some software may incorrectly create or modify a .Xauthority file in your home directory, causing startx to fail, according to [http://www.raspberrypi.org/forum/troubleshooting/startx-fails-worked-yesterday this thread]. Temporarily renaming, moving, or deleting that file may fix the problem.<br />
<br />
===Screen is the wrong color===<br />
Check and see if the DVI cable is screwed in properly. If that doesn't work then try [[#Interference_visible_on_a_HDMI_or_DVI_monitor|this]] section.<br />
<br />
===Video does not play or plays very slowly===<br />
The only hardware-accelerated video player is in the [http://www.raspberrypi.org/forum/general-discussion/openelec-meets-raspberry-pi-part-1-xbmc XBMC distribution] and its command line variant [[omxplayer]]. H264 is the only hardware-accelerated codec, for playback. No hardware encoding is supported. Additional codecs were not purchased as licensing fees would have increased the R-Pi's price.<br />
<br />
===Can only get 800x480 resolution in LXDE (Arch linux)===<br />
Known issue with distro package as of 17th April 2012 - there's some missing boot config information. Creating a suitable cmdline.txt fixes it - type the following at the Raspberry Pi command line:<br />
<br />
<pre><br />
sudo echo "dwc_otg.lpm_enable=0 console=ttyAMA0,115200 kgdboc=ttyAMA0,115200 root=/dev/mmcblk0p2 rootfstype=ext3 rootwait" >/boot/cmdline.txt<br />
</pre><br />
<br />
===Big black borders around small image on HD monitors===<br />
<br />
Out of the box, R-Pi graphics don't necessarily fill the whole screen. This is due to something called "Underscan", and it can be fixed easily.<br />
<br />
Note: the best solution is to disable overscan in display menu options (it may be called "just scan", "screen fit", "HD size", "full pixel", "unscaled", "dot by dot", "native" or "1:1"), then use the disable_overscan=1 option.<br />
<br />
Edit the configuration file, see the instructions at [[R-Pi_ConfigurationFile]].<br />
<br />
Add the following lines to the configuration file...<br />
<br />
If your display has no overscan:<br />
<br />
<pre><br />
<br />
disable_overscan=1<br />
<br />
</pre><br />
<br />
or if your display has some overscan:<br />
<br />
<pre><br />
<br />
overscan_left=-20<br />
<br />
overscan_right=-20<br />
<br />
overscan_top=-20<br />
<br />
overscan_bottom=-20<br />
<br />
</pre><br />
<br />
Making the R-Pi graphics fill the screen is a matter of experimenting with the numbers you put in the config.txt file. Change the numbers – try jumps of 5 or 10 at a time. Bigger negative numbers reduce the black borders (so -40 means less black border than -20). The numbers do not all have to be the same; you can use this feature to centre the display on the screen.<br />
<br />
===Writing spills off the screen on HD monitors===<br />
<br />
Out of the box, R-Pi graphics may be larger than the 1080p (ie Full HD) screen. This is due to something called "Overscan", and it can be fixed easily by creating a simple text file on the R-Pi SD card by using Notepad on your PC.<br />
<br />
Follow the instructions in the section "Big black borders around small image on HD monitors", but use positive numbers for the overscan settings, for example<br />
<pre><br />
<br />
overscan_left=20<br />
<br />
overscan_right=20<br />
<br />
overscan_top=20<br />
<br />
overscan_bottom=20<br />
<br />
</pre><br />
<br />
===Interference visible on a HDMI or DVI monitor===<br />
This may be caused by loss of signal on long video cables. The signal level may be increased by changing a configuration parameter.<br />
<br />
[[File:RPi_HDMI_interference.jpg|600px]]<br />
<br />
Edit the configuration file, see the instructions at [[R-Pi_ConfigurationFile]].<br />
<br />
Add the following line to the configuration file<br />
config_hdmi_boost=4<br />
<br />
You may experiment with different values of config_hdmi_boost. Value 1 is used for very short cables, value 7 is used for very long cables. At your own risk, you can go up to 11, but risk frying a sensitive monitor. <br />
<br />
Note that various adapters, such as HDMI-to-DVI, can also cause power loss and therefore require high values of config_hdmi_boost even with short cables.<br />
<br />
This option can also help when there is no display output at all, the display periodically blanks, or colours are wrong/inverted.<br />
<br />
This symptom can also be caused by RasPi +5V (measured from TP1 to TP2) falling too low. See [[#Troubleshooting_power_problems|Troubleshooting Power Problems]].<br />
<br />
===No HDMI output at all===<br />
First make sure the display is powered on and switched to the right input before booting Pi.<br />
<br />
If you have the [http://www.raspberrypi.org/archives/1435 Wheezy] image (recommended) then try<br />
hdmi_safe=1<br />
<br />
Otherwise, try adding the following line to the configuration file (similar to interference case above)<br />
config_hdmi_boost=4<br />
<br />
Your monitor/cable may not be asserting the hotplug signal. You can override this with:<br />
hdmi_force_hotplug=1<br />
<br />
Also [http://www.raspberrypi.org/phpBB3/viewtopic.php?f=28&t=7513 try] the following video options:<br />
hdmi_group=2<br />
hdmi_mode=4<br />
which resolved an issue with DVI monitor reporting "input signal out of range"<br />
<br />
As a last resort, try deleting (rename to keep backup) config.txt from the SD card.<br />
<br />
Also check that the RasPi +5V voltage (measured from TP1 to TP2) is in the correct range. One user found that his DVI-D monitor blanked out when +5V was too low. See [[#Troubleshooting_power_problems|Troubleshooting Power Problems]].<br />
<br />
Here's a rare cause: A standard HDMI cable has five individual ground wires plus a shield. Some cheap HDMI cables do not implement the individual grounds and just have a common foil shield that's connected to the HDMI plug shells at both ends. This works OK in most HDMI applications since most HDMI sources (like RasPi) and most monitors connect the shells to circuit ground. However, some HDMI or DVI monitors may requires individual ground lines. You can tell if an HDMI cable implements the individual grounds by checking for continuity using an Ohmmeter or multimeter. You can find the HDMI pinout for full-size connectors at [http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/HDMI Wikipedia].<br />
<br />
===Composite displays no image===<br />
The output display will default to HDMI if a HDMI display is connected, and composite if not. Make sure there isn't a HDMI cable connected when you want to use composite output.<br />
<br />
Also, check that your TV is set to the correct input, normally marked "AV". If your TV has multiple AV inputs, try all of the inputs, normally by pressing a button marked "AV" or "Input" or "Source" or "->O" on the remote control.<br />
<br />
===Composite displays only black and white image===<br />
The composite display defaults to NTSC (American) output. Most TVs will show an image with that, but older PAL (European) televisions may display only back and white or no image. To fix this:<br />
<br />
Edit the configuration file, see the instructions at [[R-Pi_ConfigurationFile]].<br />
<br />
Add the following line to the configuration file<br />
sdtv_mode=2<br />
<br />
(You can try other values: 0 is NTSC, 1 is Japanese NTSC, 2 is PAL, 3 is Brazilian PAL)<br />
<br />
===HDMI -> VGA adapters===<br />
Some good information can be found here:<br />
* [[RPi_VerifiedPeripherals#HDMI-.3EVGA_converter_boxes]]<br />
* [http://www.raspberrypi.org/phpBB3/viewtopic.php?f=28&t=9819 (RPi forum) Serious HDMI Problems. What's that smell? Burning Raspberry!]<br />
<br />
A commonly used adapter from Ebay: gallery with detailed images & steps of a modification to use external power source: [http://imgur.com/a/sLogs/all HERE] --''by [[User:Pinoccio|Pinoccio]]''<br />
<br />
==GPIO==<br />
Remember that the GPIO pins are 3.3V logic level only, and are <strong>NOT</strong> 5V tolerant.<br />
<br />
If you momentarily shorted the two end GPIO pins together (+3.3V and +5V), or a supply pin to ground, and the Pi appears to be dead, don't panic. The input polyfuse may have tripped. It is self-resetting after it cools down and the polymer re-crystallizes, which can take several hours. Set the Pi aside and try again later.<br />
<br />
The GPIO pins connect directly into the core of the ARM processer, and are static-sensitive, so you should avoid touching the pins wherever possible. If you are carrying a static charge, for example by taking off an acrylic pullover, or walking across a nylon carpet, touching the GPIO pins could destroy your R-Pi, so always earth yourself before touching the pins or anything connected to them.<br />
<br />
==General==<br />
===The time is incorrect===<br />
If the clock is off by a series of hours, in the command line type:<br />
sudo dpkg-reconfigure tzdata<br />
<br />
The R-Pi has no real-time clock, so unless it can access a timeserver over the network at boot, or time is manually entered by the user, the time/date will restart counting from the last logged time in the previous session.<br />
<br />
===A part broke off===<br />
<br />
The silver cylinder near the microUSB power input is a 220 uF capacitor ("C6" on schematic). It sticks up and due to the small surface-mount pads, it is easy to break off; several people have done so. This is a power supply filter capacitor which reduces any noise and spikes on the input +5V power. If you like, you can solder it back on, or just leave it off. If you do solder it back on, take care to observe the correct polarity with the black stripe towards the board edge. This part, C6 is a "just in case" component which is good design practice to include, but [http://www.raspberrypi.org/phpBB3/viewtopic.php?f=2&t=4926| as it turns out] most power supplies still work OK without this part installed. This part is also [http://elinux.org/RPi_Hardware#Capacitor_C6 discussed here].<br />
<br />
===Unable to install new software===<br />
When trying to install a software package (using the command sudo apt-get install xxxx) you may see the error<br />
Package yyyy is not available<br />
This means that your software list is out of date. Before attempting to install software, you should always make sure that you are using the latest software list by using the command<br />
sudo apt-get update<br />
<br />
==Troubleshooting power problems==<br />
<br />
If you think you have a problem with your power supply, it is a good idea to check the actual voltage<br />
on the Raspberry Pi circuit board. Two test points labelled TP1 and TP2 are provided on the circuit board<br />
to facilitate voltage measurements.<br />
<br />
Use a multimeter which is set to the range 20 volts DC (or 20v =). You should see a voltage between 4.75 and 5.25 volts. Anything outside this range indicates that you have a problem with your power supply or your power cable.<br />
<br />
If you have not used a multimeter before, see these [[http://www.sparkfun.com/tutorials/202 basic instructions]]<br />
<br />
Note: Even if the multimeter shows the correct voltage, you may have some power supply problems. A multimeter only displays the average voltage. If there are very short-lived dips or spikes in the voltage, these will not be shown by the multimeter. It is best to measure voltage when Pi is busy.<br />
<br />
If your voltage is low, it could be:<br />
* The power supply produces too low a voltage<br />
* The power supply cannot supply enough current, which results in a voltage drop. Make sure Power supply is labelled as at least 700mA. (Some cheap power supplies don't deliver what is labelled).<br />
* The Micro USB power cable is low quality. Some Micro USB cables have very thin conductors, resulting in enough voltage drop for RasPi to fail even if the power supply itself is fine. For details, see [[On_the_RPi_usb_power_cable]].<br />
* Attached USB devices want too much power. The Pi is only designed for up to 100mA USB devices. A USB device wanting more that that will cause a voltage drop.<br />
* The F3 Polyfuse could be blown or bad, see below for how to test.<br />
Note: keyboards with LCD displays, built in USB hubs, backlights, etc are likely to be problematic. Try to use a basic one. Wifi dongles are also unlikely to work when directly connected. Connect high powered USB devices to a powered USB hub.<br />
<br />
Try booting without HDMI, ethernet or USB deviced plugged in, and see if the voltage improves.<br />
See also: [[RPi_Hardware#Power_Supply_Problems| Power Supply Problems]]<br />
<br />
[[File:RPI_Test_Points.JPG|400px]] [[File:Voltmeter.JPG|250px]]<br />
<br />
<br />
'''How to test the F3 polyfuse'''<br />
<br />
# Remove all the things plugged into your Raspberry Pi, including SD card.<br />
# Locate the TP2 test point on the top of the board.<br />
# Turn your board over and find the TP2 test point on the bottom of the board. One lead of your multi-meter will always be on the TP2 point on the bottom of the board for all tests.<br />
# Plug your power supply into the micro usb port and power your board.<br />
# Place one lead of your multi-meter on the TP2 point on the bottom of the board and one lead on the side of the F3 fuse closest to the edge of the board. Note the voltage. This is the voltage coming into your RPi from your power supply.<br />
# Keeping one lead on TP2, move the other lead to the side of F3 closest to the SD card slot. This is the voltage coming out of the F3 fuse.<br />
<br />
[[File:F3-testing.jpg|none|frame|Multi-meter lead placement for testing the Raspberry Pi F3 Polyfuse]]<br />
<br />
If the voltage is different by more than about 0.03v - 0.10v you have a problem with the F3 fuse.<br />
<br />
When polyfuses "blow" their resistance increases dramatically, there by limiting the voltage that can pass through them. If your power problem suddenly appeared after your board was known to be working fine, it is probable the fuse is just "blown" and will return to normal. It can take 24 hours for the resistance to go back down to normal so leave it unpowered and check it again in 24 hours. If your power problem has been since the first time you plugged in your board, the fuse was probably bad when it arrived and should be returned to place you purchased it.<br />
<br />
If you prefer to make your own PSU - see: [[RPi_5V_PSU_construction| Power Supply construction - HowTo]]<br />
<br />
==Hardware versions/revisions==<br />
Several different boards have been found probably from different assembly lines, and the following tables try to help you identify your board for better troubleshooting.<br />
<br />
Look for the date of manufacturing printed with the year and week. In this example year (2012) and week (18th):[[File:Date_of_manufacturing.jpg|200px|thumb|right]]<br />
<br />
For what we can see for model B boards there are mainly two versions that differ on the type RAM used, Samsung (S) and Hynix (H).<br />
<br />
For '''Board ver'''. we used: <model><RAM Maker><production date> (ex.: BS1218 is "Model B, Samsung RAM, 18th week of 2012")<br />
<br />
Model A:<br />
{| border="1" class="wikitable"<br />
|-<br />
! Board<br />
ver.<br />
! RAM<br />
Chip <br />
! USB<br />
Chip <br />
! Front<br />
! Back<br />
|-<br />
| <br />
| <br />
| <br />
| <br />
| <br />
|}<br />
<br />
<br />
Model B:<br />
{| border="1" class="wikitable"<br />
|-<br />
! Board<br />
ver.<br />
! RAM<br />
Chip <br />
! USB<br />
Chip <br />
! Front<br />
! Back<br />
|-<br />
| BS12xx<br />
| Samsung<br />
| SMSC<br />
| [[File:RaspberryPi-Board_A-Front.JPG|200px|thumb|center]]<br />
| [[File:RaspberryPi-Board_A-Back.JPG|200px|thumb|center]]<br />
|-<br />
| BH12xx<br />
| Hynix<br />
| SMSC<br />
| [[File:RaspberryPi-Board_B-Front.JPG|200px|thumb|center]]<br />
| [[File:RaspberryPi-Board_B-Back.JPG|200px|thumb|center]]<br />
|}<br />
<br />
<big>See a '''complete list''' and user feedback here: [[RaspberryPi Boards]]</big><br />
<br />
=References= <br />
<references/><br />
<br />
{{Template:Raspberry Pi}}<br />
<br />
[[Category:RaspberryPi]]</div>Bgirardothttps://elinux.org/index.php?title=User_talk:Bgirardot&diff=195722User talk:Bgirardot2012-11-27T16:18:22Z<p>Bgirardot: </p>
<hr />
<div>'''Welcome to ''eLinux.org''!'''<br />
We hope you will contribute much and well.<br />
You will probably want to read the [[Help:Contents|help pages]].<br />
Again, welcome and have fun! [[User:Wmat|Wmat]] 16:14, 21 October 2012 (UTC)<br />
<br />
<br />
'''How to test the F3 polyfuse'''<br />
<br />
# Remove all the things plugged into your Raspberry Pi, including SD card.<br />
# Locate the TP2 test point on the top of the board.<br />
# Turn your board over and find the TP2 test point on the bottom of the board. One lead of your mult-meter will always be on the TP2 point on the bottom of the board for all tests.<br />
# Plug your power supply into the micro usb port and power your board.<br />
# Place one lead of your mult-tester on the TP2 point on the bottom of the board and one lead on the side of the F3 fuse closest to the edge of the board. Note the voltage. This is the voltage coming into your RPi from your power supply.<br />
# Keeping one lead on TP2, move the other lead to the side of F3 closest to the SD card slot. This is the voltage coming out of the F3 fuse.<br />
<br />
[[File:F3-testing.jpg|none|frame|Testing the Raspberry Pi F3 Polyfuse]]<br />
<br />
If the voltage is different by more than about 0.03v - 0.10v you have a problem with the F3 fuse.<br />
<br />
When polyfuses "blow" their resistence increases dramatically, there by limiting the voltage that can pass through them. If your power problem suddenly appeared after your board was known to be working fine, it is probable the fuse is just "blown" and will return to normal. It can take 24 hours for the resistence to go back down to normal so leave it unpowered and check it again in 24 hours. If your power problem has been since the first time you plugged in your board, the fuse was probably bad when it arrived and should be returned to place you purchased it.</div>Bgirardothttps://elinux.org/index.php?title=User_talk:Bgirardot&diff=195716User talk:Bgirardot2012-11-27T16:17:37Z<p>Bgirardot: </p>
<hr />
<div>'''Welcome to ''eLinux.org''!'''<br />
We hope you will contribute much and well.<br />
You will probably want to read the [[Help:Contents|help pages]].<br />
Again, welcome and have fun! [[User:Wmat|Wmat]] 16:14, 21 October 2012 (UTC)<br />
<br />
<br />
'''How to test the F3 polyfuse'''<br />
<br />
# Remove all the things plugged into your Raspberry Pi, including SD card.<br />
<br />
# Locate the TP2 test point on the top of the board.<br />
<br />
# Turn your board over and find the TP2 test point on the bottom of the board. One lead of your mult-meter will always be on the TP2 point on the bottom of the board for all tests.<br />
<br />
# Plug your power supply into the micro usb port and power your board.<br />
<br />
# Place one lead of your mult-tester on the TP2 point on the bottom of the board and one lead on the side of the F3 fuse closest to the edge of the board. Note the voltage. This is the voltage coming into your RPi from your power supply.<br />
<br />
# Keeping one lead on TP2, move the other lead to the side of F3 closest to the SD card slot. This is the voltage coming out of the F3 fuse.<br />
<br />
[[File:F3-testing.jpg|none|frame|Testing the Raspberry Pi F3 Polyfuse]]<br />
<br />
If the voltage is different by more than about 0.03v - 0.10v you have a problem with the F3 fuse.<br />
<br />
When polyfuses "blow" their resistence increases dramatically, there by limiting the voltage that can pass through them. If your power problem suddenly appeared after your board was known to be working fine, it is probable the fuse is just "blown" and will return to normal. It can take 24 hours for the resistence to go back down to normal so leave it unpowered and check it again in 24 hours. If your power problem has been since the first time you plugged in your board, the fuse was probably bad when it arrived and should be returned to place you purchased it.</div>Bgirardothttps://elinux.org/index.php?title=User_talk:Bgirardot&diff=195710User talk:Bgirardot2012-11-27T16:16:17Z<p>Bgirardot: </p>
<hr />
<div>'''Welcome to ''eLinux.org''!'''<br />
We hope you will contribute much and well.<br />
You will probably want to read the [[Help:Contents|help pages]].<br />
Again, welcome and have fun! [[User:Wmat|Wmat]] 16:14, 21 October 2012 (UTC)<br />
<br />
<br />
'''How to test the F3 polyfuse'''<br />
<br />
#Remove all the things plugged into your Raspberry Pi, including SD card.<br />
<br />
#Locate the TP2 test point on the top of the board.<br />
<br />
#Turn your board over and find the TP2 test point on the bottom of the board. One lead of your mult-meter will always be on the TP2 point on the bottom of the board for all tests.<br />
<br />
#Plug your power supply into the micro usb port and power your board.<br />
<br />
#Place one lead of your mult-tester on the TP2 point on the bottom of the board and one lead on the side of the F3 fuse closest to the edge of the board. Note the voltage. This is the voltage coming into your RPi from your power supply.<br />
<br />
#Keeping one lead on TP2, move the other lead to the side of F3 closest to the SD card slot. This is the voltage coming out of the F3 fuse.<br />
<br />
[[File:F3-testing.jpg|none|frame|Testing the Raspberry Pi F3 Polyfuse]]<br />
<br />
If the voltage is different by more than about 0.03v - 0.10v you have a problem with the F3 fuse.<br />
<br />
When polyfuses "blow" their resistence increases dramatically, there by limiting the voltage that can pass through them. If your power problem suddenly appeared after your board was known to be working fine, it is probable the fuse is just "blown" and will return to normal. It can take 24 hours for the resistence to go back down to normal so leave it unpowered and check it again in 24 hours. If your power problem has been since the first time you plugged in your board, the fuse was probably bad when it arrived and should be returned to place you purchased it.</div>Bgirardothttps://elinux.org/index.php?title=File:F3-testing.jpg&diff=195704File:F3-testing.jpg2012-11-27T16:09:05Z<p>Bgirardot: </p>
<hr />
<div></div>Bgirardot